Willie's '67 122 Project

[wtarkington]

Originally Posted by matt b

Very cool. Are you leaving the roof as-is and just painting the body ? Are you going to match the existing paint or just start from scratch ? Nice work on the engine, these are great engines when they're working well. Easy to maintain.

Thank you. I thought about leaving it as is, but the problem with that is it’s kind of a Frankenstein car. It’s got lots of donor parts and lots of grey patches from body work. I also want to replace all the rubbery bits.

When I do paint it, I’m probably not going to go with the original color. I’d like to go two-tone, not sure what colors yet, though. I’m leaning towards red with a white top at the moment. I’m always changing my mind.

[wtarkington]

Originally Posted by volvorelix

Really cool car.

Why no valve stem seals? Granted, they don't do a whole lot...

It’s funny you say that. After I put the head on, I noticed I didn’t see any valve seals. I kind of panicked for a moment and called my engine builder. He told me he put em inside the spring this time. Not sure why, I’ve never seen that before.

[wtarkington]

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

B18's use an umbrella style seal. It's held to the stem by the groove just above the retainer.

He told me he put them inside the spring. Is this a common thing? I’ve never seen these with the valve seals like that.

[hiperfauto]

Older American cars use an umbrella seal under the retainer like where your machinist put them but these are supposed to go on top. I don't think it will hurt anything though.

[wtarkington]

Originally Posted by hiperfauto

Older American cars use an umbrella seal under the retainer like where your machinist put them but these are supposed to go on top. I don't think it will hurt anything though.

Okay, that’s good to know. Thank you.

[wtarkington]

Picked up some sport springs from IPD. They were surprisingly easy to install. Anyone know if I need to get an alignment now?




Front sprints old vs new




Rear

[wtarkington]

Picked up a new dome light and plate. Can anyone tell me the correct wiring. I have a wiring diagram, but I personally don’t like to mess with wiring all that much. I admit that it’s a bit hard for me to understand.

Also after looking at some pics, I think I have it installed the wrong way.

[wtarkington]

So I’ve been daily driving this car for a long time now. Over time the drivers seat began to fall apart. I’m tall and built, but I’m not THAT big. Has anyone experienced this before?

I swapped the front seats, and the passenger side is wayyyy better on my back, since it has been used way less for obvious reasons. BUT I feel like it’s so far forward. The keys dangle on my knee, and I’m basically hugging the steering wheel.

Has anyone ever figured out a way to move the seats back a bit? I’m pretty sure these seats are for a 4-door, as there’s no way to move the seats to allow someone to get into the back.

[spock345]

That seat looks kind of messed up. On the later style seats the U shaped tubular bit on the bottom of the seat unbolts from the rest of it with 4 bolts similar to a 240 seat and there are a few sets of holes so you can move it forward and back to have different "ranges" of adjustment. I'm lucky enough that the farthest setting back feels comfortable to me.

Maybe make some seat rail extensions?

[wtarkington]

Originally Posted by spock345

That seat looks kind of messed up. On the later style seats the U shaped tubular bit on the bottom of the seat unbolts from the rest of it with 4 bolts similar to a 240 seat and there are a few sets of holes so you can move it forward and back to have different "ranges" of adjustment. I'm lucky enough that the farthest setting back feels comfortable to me.

Maybe make some seat rail extensions?

Yea that’s what I was thinking. I’m gunna try some mending plates. Home Depot has em for days.

[142 guy]

Originally Posted by wtarkington

Picked up some sport springs from IPD. They were surprisingly easy to install. Anyone know if I need to get an alignment now?

The change in ride height does alter front camber so does change the steering geometry. If you want the steering geometry to be the same as before the spring change you need a re alignment.

When you alter the ride height you alter the front camber causing it to become less positive or slightly negative - depending on whether you started out with positive or 0 camber. Volvo initially recommended 0 to slightly positive camber. With modern radial tires slightly negative camber may improve things. If your car initially had a Volvo 'spec' alignment the the reduction in positive or change to negative camber may be beneficial; but, will increase the steering effort.

The bigger problem may be offset of the rear axle. When you drop the ride height at the rear the panhard rod causes the rear axle to offset to the side of the car. Stand about 20 feet behind the car and look at the positioning of the rear wheels relative to the body. If the wheels appear to be offset to the left or right (I don't know which side the pan hard bar mounts on the axle) you will need to shorten the panhard to return the back axle to a centered position under the car. Depending on the amount of drop in ride height you may also need to check the pinion angles on your transmission output shaft and differential input shaft. If they are significantly different then you need to alter the back axle orientation to match the angles. That is a little more challenging fix.

[spock345]

How much did those springs end up dropping it? I am tempted by some sport springs. VP autoparts and IPD both sell sets. But I like my ability to not scrape things on steep driveways.

[wtarkington]

Originally Posted by 142 guy

The change in ride height does alter front camber so does change the steering geometry. If you want the steering geometry to be the same as before the spring change you need a re alignment.

When you alter the ride height you alter the front camber causing it to become less positive or slightly negative - depending on whether you started out with positive or 0 camber. Volvo initially recommended 0 to slightly positive camber. With modern radial tires slightly negative camber may improve things. If your car initially had a Volvo 'spec' alignment the the reduction in positive or change to negative camber may be beneficial; but, will increase the steering effort.

The bigger problem may be offset of the rear axle. When you drop the ride height at the rear the panhard rod causes the rear axle to offset to the side of the car. Stand about 20 feet behind the car and look at the positioning of the rear wheels relative to the body. If the wheels appear to be offset to the left or right (I don't know which side the pan hard bar mounts on the axle) you will need to shorten the panhard to return the back axle to a centered position under the car. Depending on the amount of drop in ride height you may also need to check the pinion angles on your transmission output shaft and differential input shaft. If they are significantly different then you need to alter the back axle orientation to match the angles. That is a little more challenging fix.

I took a look under the car from far away and everything seemed to be lined up okay. I’m not experiencing any issues driving the car either. I think after 60 or so mm the panhard becomes an issue. At least that’s what I read. I could be totally wrong.

[wtarkington]

Originally Posted by spock345

How much did those springs end up dropping it? I am tempted by some sport springs. VP autoparts and IPD both sell sets. But I like my ability to not scrape things on steep driveways.

It says the drop is 1.2 inches. It looks great. It doesn’t have that high rise look anymore. I can’t see into the wheel well, as you can with the stock springs. 122’s sit so high stock, this drop didn’t have any effect going over speed bumps or driveways or anything. It was worth it for me, and easy to do. Not too expensive either.

[wtarkington]

Seat problem has been solved. The distance, height, and lean is all perfect. The ONLY thing that kind of bothers me is the way the front bar sticks out. I say kind of because it’s not that bad really. I don’t notice it when I’m sitting. I can probably cover it with carpet when I get to that point. I thought about drilling a hole but, I believe the seat sits on a specific part of the frame for obvious structural reasons. I could be wrong.

[PaddyGarcia]

Yep, the seat mounts in the floor are welded into the cross members for strength. You and your seat experience huge forces in an accident, so mounting a seat straight to the pan takes more than just drilling a hole.

I hope that's your prototype just to locate the seat, it's really not safe...

[wtarkington]

Originally Posted by PaddyGarcia

Yep, the seat mounts in the floor are welded into the cross members for strength. You and your seat experience huge forces in an accident, so mounting a seat straight to the pan takes more than just drilling a hole.

I hope that's your prototype just to locate the seat, it's really not safe...

I guess looking at it, if there is enough force the seat could still Swing forward no matter how tight the nuts are.

So what should I do than to bring the seat back? It’s just as unsafe with it mounted normally, as I’m basically hugging the steering wheel and it’s really hard to see. Also I have to open my legs more, and my knees touch the dash. I’m only 6’1.

[wtarkington]

Originally Posted by PaddyGarcia

Yep, the seat mounts in the floor are welded into the cross members for strength. You and your seat experience huge forces in an accident, so mounting a seat straight to the pan takes more than just drilling a hole.

I hope that's your prototype just to locate the seat, it's really not safe...

Just did a little test and they do still swing forward pretty easily. So I will have to think of another solution I guess. Thank you. Luckily I have new seatbelts that lock.

What if I drill holes in the back to make two more anchor spots, to anchor the rail in the back so it doesn’t swing forward?

[PaddyGarcia]

Mounting a seat isn't simple: you can very easily get forces of a couple of g's in even a moderate crash. One way to think about it is how would any mounting idea handle being hit by a couple of NFL linemen.

Those straps aren't strong enough in any direction. Even if you welded the nuts and bolts so they didn't rotate, the long strap will bend easily when the linemen come to play.

I think you're on the right path by anchoring to the rear. One way might be by making a box of 1x1 square tube, bolted to the side mounts and anchored to the rear floor pan with some plates to spread the load a little. Then mount the seat to the box.

[wtarkington]

Originally Posted by PaddyGarcia

Mounting a seat isn't simple: you can very easily get forces of a couple of g's in even a moderate crash. One way to think about it is how would any mounting idea handle being hit by a couple of NFL linemen.

Those straps aren't strong enough in any direction. Even if you welded the nuts and bolts so they didn't rotate, the long strap will bend easily when the linemen come to play.

I think you're on the right path by anchoring to the rear. One way might be by making a box of 1x1 square tube, bolted to the side mounts and anchored to the rear floor pan with some plates to spread the load a little. Then mount the seat to the box.

Okay, I see what your saying. Would that require some welding? I know a few welders who might be able to help me.

[PaddyGarcia]

Yes, welded. You don't have to go to the extent that Canuck's done here https://forums.turbobricks.com/showp...03&postcount=8 but that's some ideas anyway.

[cwdodson88]

Originally Posted by wtarkington

Okay, I see what your saying. Would that require some welding? I know a few welders who might be able to help me.

I would do this:

(3) 6x6" 1/8" steel plate.
(3) nuts that fit the original bolts including the front center eyelet.

Drill holes in the current floor where the new seat mounts need to be that is just a little oversize to the nut.

Drill holes in the plates (as close to the center of the plates if you can) that will slip-fit the bolt. The rear ones will be tricky and might need some bending to get up the tunnel, and down the floor into the rear footwells.

Put some old bolts through, tighten the nuts down, weld nuts to plate.

Place plate over the new holes in the floor and weld them down. If you tack them down where ever they naturally touch the floor, you can take a 3lb sledge and beat them into the valleys, then tack some more. Then finish weld all the way around.