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Old 04-17-2015, 02:08 AM   #51
sspony
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
No salt in Oregon either... but I laid down POR 15, then truck bed liner.
Well played!
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65' 122s (weekend cruiser) http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=308197
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Old 04-18-2015, 08:14 PM   #52
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I'm getting more and more interested in the idea of a manual swap. If I can find a bell housing, I'd really consider it.
I have a perfect condition bell housing with clutch fork ready to ship if you want it or decide you need it. From a 66 122, hydraulic cylinders. My cylinders are too worn out to use so I recommend buying new or rebuilt ones anyway.

And welcome to the 122 gang!
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:04 PM   #53
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I have a perfect condition bell housing with clutch fork ready to ship if you want it or decide you need it. From a 66 122, hydraulic cylinders. My cylinders are too worn out to use so I recommend buying new or rebuilt ones anyway.

And welcome to the 122 gang!
Thanks, man! I appreciate that! Right now it deends on how the engine rebuild goes, whether i i convert or not. If not now, maybe next year. I def want to do it tho, judging from what everyone is saying, it seems to really open up the engine.
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:05 PM   #54
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This is a thread I posted right before I picked my 122 up. Lots of good info was posted... Where to source parts, what oil filters to use, how to convert to an alternator, 1-2 circuit brake systems etc etc. Worth reading through.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=301574
Ive been looking through this thread and there is great info here! thanks!
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:09 PM   #55
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C is ok, D is peppier up top. If you keep the auto, the D wont be much of any improvement over a C. My 122 wagon is my daily, and will even be my snow daily. They're fun and people like to see you rocking it year round!
So lets say i hold off on the manual swap(it comes down to cash, after the engine is done), would it be benificial to throw in a D now while its open, so later when i do convert, which i do want to, i dont have to worry about it?
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:10 PM   #56
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No salt in Oregon either... but I laid down POR 15, then truck bed liner.


Did you sand down to bare metal for the POR? I wanna do that to my interior.
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:14 PM   #57
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Default Engine is out

Alright, the engine and tranny are finally out of the car. Anyone got any suggestions on what i should clean/replace ect while its out? I def wanna spray the bay down with some degreaser.

 photo image1.jpg
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:16 PM   #58
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Also, as far as engine goes, what kind of parts should i use in the engine? All ive given my machinist right now is a heavy duty oil pump from ipd.
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:24 PM   #59
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Did you sand down to bare metal for the POR? I wanna do that to my interior.
Nope, I just used a wire wheel to get it clean ish, then used the marine clean, and metal ready, then the POR15 coating. Then on top of that I used a rubberized truck bed liner.
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:41 PM   #60
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Nope, I just used a wire wheel to get it clean ish, then used the marine clean, and metal ready, then the POR15 coating. Then on top of that I used a rubberized truck bed liner.
Alright, im gunna do it. Im tired of looking at the floor hahaha.
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:14 AM   #61
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Post before and after pics!
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Old 05-06-2015, 11:37 AM   #62
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How are the floors coming along?
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Old 08-29-2015, 02:19 AM   #63
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Question Carby problem.

Okay, so, a few days ago i tried connecting my choke cables to the carbs. It didnt really work out, and now ive done something and cant get the carbs to tune. Theyre rebuilt(as well as the engine and everything else) and they were professionally tuned.

My problem seems to be the rear piston: it rises up slightly when the engine is running, making the engine rev high. I can bring it down with a finger but it goes right back up. The lifter pin isnt sticking. There are no vacuum leaks; this car was running like a champ before i fiddled with the carbs. The timing is set right. Valves done.

When i took it to the shop before, it had the same problem, and my mechanic practically touched it and fixed everything.

I was hoping to see if anyone knew what was up before i brought it back to him. Here are some pics:

Both carbs, engine running.

 photo image3.jpg

Front carb, engine running:

 photo image2.jpg

Rear carb, engine running:

 photo image1_1.jpg




Any help would be greatly appreciated. The carbs have fluid/springs ect, so i dont know what the deal is.

Cheers!
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Old 08-29-2015, 03:24 AM   #64
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Oh we had this problem on a beautifully restored 244. It wasn't the piston what was sticking, more likely the throttle shaft. One of the two springs have had slid away and it barely rotated the shaft back into position, so you had to give a quick pedal pumping to get it back to idling. (B21A with a single carb)
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:19 AM   #65
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back to the basics here, did you disconnect the throttle linkage when you messed with the choke?

If not, the only suspect would be the choke mechanism. disconnect the choke, and with your hand, engage and disengage the choke. It should go back to normal. If it doesnt, gently push the jet back in (just up until its seated). and make sure the cam for the high idle is not touching its screw.

If you did, did you touch the idle screws at all?
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Old 08-29-2015, 02:32 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by petiww View Post
Oh we had this problem on a beautifully restored 244. It wasn't the piston what was sticking, more likely the throttle shaft. One of the two springs have had slid away and it barely rotated the shaft back into position, so you had to give a quick pedal pumping to get it back to idling. (B21A with a single carb)
Maybe I should get new springs? I'm using generic springs from O'reighlys. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 08-29-2015, 02:35 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
back to the basics here, did you disconnect the throttle linkage when you messed with the choke?

If not, the only suspect would be the choke mechanism. disconnect the choke, and with your hand, engage and disengage the choke. It should go back to normal. If it doesnt, gently push the jet back in (just up until its seated). and make sure the cam for the high idle is not touching its screw.

If you did, did you touch the idle screws at all?
I actually didn't disconnect the linkage. :( the choke is disconnected now, and the idle screw is turned way out so its not touching.
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Old 08-29-2015, 03:31 PM   #68
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Maybe I should get new springs? I'm using generic springs from O'reighlys. Thanks for the tip!
I'm not saying it is the spring. But I think it is throttle shaft/linkage related. If only the piston goes up without the throttle being opened only the mixture screws up and the engine sputters, dies. You can easily try this out on the front carb.
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:35 PM   #69
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I'm not saying it is the spring. But I think it is throttle shaft/linkage related. If only the piston goes up without the throttle being opened only the mixture screws up and the engine sputters, dies. You can easily try this out on the front carb.
I think you guys are right about it being the linkage. I loosened the nuts where the little "claws" are, and low and behold everything went back to normal. I tuned he carbs and tightened the linkage but left just a bit of play and everything looked fine. I drove her around the block a few times and it felt great. It did stumble a little bit when I went faster but that eventually went away. I still have to do some tuning I think.

BUT...I went back to the house to let my brother take her for a ride, turned the car off for a bit, and now she won't start back up. The engine will start, sputter sputter sputter and then die. I try to give it some gas but nothing. Maybe idle too low? It was running fine just a minute before.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:56 AM   #70
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check the fuel bowls, is there fuel? its it the same level for both carbs? This would also explain the sputter, clogged gross jets. or fuel boiling.
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:13 PM   #71
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check the fuel bowls, is there fuel? its it the same level for both carbs? This would also explain the sputter, clogged gross jets. or fuel boiling.
Sorry i never replied. I have my mechanic tune up the carbs at the end of the day. Thanks for the help, tho!
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:50 PM   #72
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Default Rebuilt Engine

I know theyre not too popular here, but ive decided to stick with the automatic for now. Maybe in the future ill do a swap, but the auto just suits my current needs Here is the freshly rebuild B18 and tranny:

 photo fresh b18.jpg

 photo IMG_2445.jpg
 photo IMG_2451.jpg
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:51 PM   #73
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Default Guts going in

 photo IMG_2473.jpg


 photo IMG_2456.jpg
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:55 PM   #74
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nice stuff
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:56 PM   #75
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Default Interior updates

The car has since been tuned and had the front suspension rebuilt. The rear suspension is currently being rebuilt. Almost ready for the daily grind. Here are some shots of my interior as it stands. I have a new headliner ready for install from VP as soon as it gets back from rear suspension.

 photo frontseats.jpg

 photo backseat.jpg

 photo IMG_2760.jpg
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