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Old 10-08-2016, 03:16 PM   #126
cwdodson88
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Don't use metal ones. Hit the local paint supply spot and get some plastic ones, makes later on removal more doable
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Old 10-08-2016, 03:47 PM   #127
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Will,

I almost always have a supply of the correct metal clips in stock as they fit 544 and 1800 as well.


Chris,

Do you have a picture or a part number for a plastic clip?

I would prefer plastic, but I can't remember seeing anything that would work.
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Old 10-08-2016, 03:56 PM   #128
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I'll have to dig through my stash. The clips I found looked like the originals except they require a slight keyhole of the holes in the panel. On the other end they looked like a brush, lots of little fingers and a very large washer that sat against the keyholed panel. I believe tgey were aftermarket for a dodge pickup and if you positioned the keyhole correctly you can install the clips then slip the panel on and off with the correct amount of force.

Warkinton- get yourself some fiberglass resin or epoxy of some sort and nicely coat those panels so they won't rot
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Old 10-08-2016, 04:10 PM   #129
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Found the pn a16261. It was a gm part. If I remember correctly, the keyhole allowed the clip to be forced into place, then after installing the panel it could be removed by pushing up and lifting, and reinstalling it was not easy but doable.
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:08 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Don't use metal ones. Hit the local paint supply spot and get some plastic ones, makes later on removal more doable
Thanks for the tip! Ive been looking online but its hard to tell when not seeing em in person
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:09 PM   #131
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Originally Posted by planetman View Post
Will,

I almost always have a supply of the correct metal clips in stock as they fit 544 and 1800 as well.


Chris,

Do you have a picture or a part number for a plastic clip?

I would prefer plastic, but I can't remember seeing anything that would work.


I'd be glad to buy some if these plastic ones are hard to find.
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:12 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
I'll have to dig through my stash. The clips I found looked like the originals except they require a slight keyhole of the holes in the panel. On the other end they looked like a brush, lots of little fingers and a very large washer that sat against the keyholed panel. I believe tgey were aftermarket for a dodge pickup and if you positioned the keyhole correctly you can install the clips then slip the panel on and off with the correct amount of force.

Warkinton- get yourself some fiberglass resin or epoxy of some sort and nicely coat those panels so they won't rot
Ive already filled those spots with some filler, they were shallow enough that I didn't need to use a dent puller. Im using Evercoat. Evercoat Z or something like that.
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:15 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Found the pn a16261. It was a gm part. If I remember correctly, the keyhole allowed the clip to be forced into place, then after installing the panel it could be removed by pushing up and lifting, and reinstalling it was not easy but doable.
Thanks for the part number! I looked them up. Does it twist into the panel?
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:20 PM   #134
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Ive already filled those spots with some filler, they were shallow enough that I didn't need to use a dent puller. Im using Evercoat. Evercoat Z or something like that.
I was thinking the backside of the door cards. Coat them with a good marine epoxy or plain ol fiberglass resin. It will add some structural rigidity and also water proofing to the panels. If using original clips, install clips first. If using plastic ones, test fit the clips to the panel first.
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:24 PM   #135
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Thanks for the part number! I looked them up. Does it twist into the panel?
what you do is notch each hole in the door card to make a keyhole, then slip them in, and press the panel on.
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:26 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
I was thinking the backside of the door cards. Coat them with a good marine epoxy or plain ol fiberglass resin. It will add some structural rigidity and also water proofing to the panels. If using original clips, install clips first. If using plastic ones, test fit the clips to the panel first.
Ohhh hahahaha. That's a good idea, I wouldn't have thought about doing that. I read that the door itself should have some kind of plastic over the large cut outs so rain and such doesn't get onto the cards. Couldn't hurt to have both measures of protection.
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:28 PM   #137
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Default Back to work

Got the car back from Hiperf and they did a lot of amazing work. The suspension is all completely taken care of now, no more shaking and creaking down the road - just wanna bring her down a bit in the future. Trans runs great, I have a working horn, its like a new car! They even came through with a new steering column shroud, which ill post pics of.

First thing I did was throw on these older style wheels. Looks much better than what I had before. Looks very 50's 'ish, the style im going for. Lots of color.

 photo 7_1.jpg


 photo 6_1.jpg

 photo 8.jpg
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:33 PM   #138
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Next step is to just clean her up real good inside and out, top to bottom. than door panels are going on. Than...drive.


 photo 3.jpg


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Old 02-08-2017, 05:14 PM   #139
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Default Door Panels

Got the door panels finally installed. It was a pain in the d!ck because I had to drill new holes in the cardboard part of the panel to make em line up correctly, but worth it in the end.

The colors don't match the rest of the car at the moment, but it will all make sense once the car is finally painted fully.

 photo IMG_0212.jpg

 photo IMG_0201.jpg

 photo IMG_0202.jpg

 photo IMG_0199.jpg

Im drawing a lot of inspiration from this 444:

 photo interior-volvo-pv.jpg

 photo klassikern-volvo-pv.jpg
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:12 PM   #140
wtarkington
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Default Body work begins

So since im not doing anything mechanically at this time, and just driving her around a LOT, I figured id start getting the body all cleaned up. I do want to paint her in the next few years.

I replaced the nose assembly last year and that made a world of difference.
Here you can see how the hood is propped up from a damaged hinge.



And after replacing the hinge with one undamaged:



The culprit





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Old 03-29-2017, 12:15 PM   #141
wtarkington
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Default Rear panel

So I got this rear panel from a nice guy on the east coast. I plan on getting the car pulled and this welded on. Is there anything I need to know before I take it in to a shop?

The entire rear of the car is being replaced - I have an undamaged trunk lid, a solid condition rear bumber, and this panel.

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Old 04-11-2017, 06:59 PM   #142
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Default Legacy Plates

My CA legacy plates finally came in. I originally wanted "THE 122", which is also a 1960s plate lettering pattern, but 3 letters followed by 3 numbers wasn't allowed. Looks like a proper 60s car now.





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Old 10-14-2020, 05:07 PM   #143
wtarkington
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Default Persistent high idle

First time posting in a couple of years. Iíve been enjoying this car as a mostly daily driver these last few years. Got some major body work done, etc.

These past few months, Ive been struggling with an untamable high idle. The newer SUís are rebuilt. Some details about the car:

-engine was rebuilt several years back by a reputable source. Under load at high speeds, she ran excellently.

-carbs are rebuilt. If I put on the old, tired ones, I still get the same result. Iíve replaced every hose I can, PCV valve, I even sprayed carb cleaner all over the place and can never find an air like.

-if I disconnect the hose from the PCV valve to the nipple at manifold, and plug nipple,there is no change.

-idle screws turned all the way out, still no change.

-Pertronix electronic ignition less than a year old, was working fine as far as I know.

-new Beru Blue coil, 12v 3 Ohm(I plan on getting the Bosch later)

-iPD plug leads all just a few ,on this old

-cap and rotor look good, theyíre newer.

-brand new spark plugs gapped at .028

-valves all at .020

-idle timing is at 10 degrees, I did the static timing thing. Drive pinion is all correct.

-distributor with centrifugal advance seems to be working fine. Springs are intact and functional.

-battery, alternator etc all good.

-carb pistons move the same, give a nice clunk when let drop.

-throttles open and close all the way. Dashpot fluid etc good. Linkage seems to be okay.

-if I pop open the float bowls after running it, they at the level they should be at.

-choke is completely disconnected and disengaged.

-I recently redid the head gasket. Lifters were all healthy as far as I know. All valves opened and closed as they should. Cleaned and replaced gasket with correct torques, etc, valve adjustment after.

When trying to tune the carbs, the rear carb seems to pull in way more air than the front carb for what ever reason. If I pull the plugs, that side of the engine shows me itís running super lean. Those plugs are whiter and dry, front 2 a nice brown.

And so, Iím finally returning to the forums for some help. Iím at a complete loss, here.

Anyone here might have any idea as to what Im missing here? Iíve noticed the idle drops a bit when under load, but only because itís under load.

I can drive it but it lacks any gusto.

Thanks, everyone.
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Old 10-14-2020, 05:08 PM   #144
wtarkington
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Default Persistent high idle

One thing I have coming is a compression tester. Gunna check all cylinders, just in case.

Last edited by wtarkington; 10-14-2020 at 05:15 PM..
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Old 10-15-2020, 10:50 AM   #145
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Id say that your persistent high idle is most likely an air leak. If the rear carb is "sucking" more, I'd look at the front carb. Are you using the aluminum intake? those have a freeze plug in the end of the balance tube and I've seen some that had leaks there. Also, it could be in a place that you cant get carb cleaner or ether isnt getting sprayed onto. I would pull the intake manifold, take a knife sharpening stone, and rub that around all mating surfaces to remove any burrs. Then clean, reassemble, and torque to spec.
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Old 10-15-2020, 10:56 AM   #146
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Also - the SU carb throttle shafts can wear into the soft alu carb body, the throttle valve ends up a little off center, and that can cause one edge to hang up on the bore and hang open a little. Or the throttle valves themselves might not be centered properly and leaving one side open while the other touches. Also check that the choke mechanism isn't hanging open a bit.
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Old 10-15-2020, 11:38 AM   #147
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Low compression wouldn't cause a high idle, but as others have said: an air leak definitely will. Is the linkage returning fully, right away or is it a little sluggish ?
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Old 10-15-2020, 12:53 PM   #148
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Do you have a timing light? Check the timing is set to 17-19 deg @1500 rpm?
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Old 10-16-2020, 05:56 PM   #149
wtarkington
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
Id say that your persistent high idle is most likely an air leak. If the rear carb is "sucking" more, I'd look at the front carb. Are you using the aluminum intake? those have a freeze plug in the end of the balance tube and I've seen some that had leaks there. Also, it could be in a place that you cant get carb cleaner or ether isnt getting sprayed onto. I would pull the intake manifold, take a knife sharpening stone, and rub that around all mating surfaces to remove any burrs. Then clean, reassemble, and torque to spec.

Glad to hear from you Dodson. My manifold is the one where the intake and exhaust are all connected. No extra flaps etc. I actually just changed the gasket recently and installed all new studs. The surface looked good to me.
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Old 10-16-2020, 06:00 PM   #150
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Also - the SU carb throttle shafts can wear into the soft alu carb body, the throttle valve ends up a little off center, and that can cause one edge to hang up on the bore and hang open a little. Or the throttle valves themselves might not be centered properly and leaving one side open while the other touches. Also check that the choke mechanism isn't hanging open a bit.
Thank you for the reply. The carbs on it are new, and if I put the old set on itís the same result. With the pistons out I can check how the throttles are acting and they look good to me. Both open and close fully the same way.
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