Pdx dl - Page 3

Mikeystoy · 03-02-2016, 04:42 PM

I'd like to talk you out of your a/c parts, I have a spare non a/c p/s mount.

LC4CARL · 03-03-2016, 01:20 AM

Struts came off. Rubber brake lines: scary. Ball joints: death trap. Brake pads: good.

Looks like there is plenty of camber adjustment in the slots.

How many coils should I cut off?

LC4CARL · 03-03-2016, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quillc

You are making this much harder than it needs to be. You really need to talk to Ben Kaplan (user name Blkaplan on the board). He runs a little shop called Kaplhenke.com. http://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240 Pretty much has everything you are looking for. You can also talk to Josh at Yoshifab. Check out the links section on my website (www.yv1a.com) for some other useful resources.

Nice site!

quillc · 03-03-2016, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LC4CARL

Nice site!

thanks!

When I cut the springs on my first 240, I cut two full turns. One turn wasn't enough, two seemed about right without being too low. I did that in two stage (one turn, then the second a few weeks later). If you want to scrape the mud flaps, three turns would get you about there. You have very little suspension travel at that point though.

I ended up running iPD springs. Still a skosh high in the front, but I'm unwilling to cut the iPD springs. When my strut inserts die, I'll just get some of Ben's shortened coil overs.

LC4CARL · 03-03-2016, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quillc

thanks!

When I cut the springs on my first 240, I cut two full turns. One turn wasn't enough, two seemed about right without being too low. I did that in two stage (one turn, then the second a few weeks later). If you want to scrape the mud flaps, three turns would get you about there. You have very little suspension travel at that point though.

I ended up running iPD springs. Still a skosh high in the front, but I'm unwilling to cut the iPD springs. When my strut inserts die, I'll just get some of Ben's shortened coil overs.

I was thinking two coils as well. Probably go one coil on the rear to start. (Got to carry my dirt bike / see photo.) This will be "stage one" of the build. Later we'll do sway bars, bushings, struts and springs.

I am thinking about doing the IPD rear track bar and some steering alignment spacers at this point. Any suggestions on spacer suppliers?

sbabbs · 03-03-2016, 02:58 PM

Cutting the springs makes the car lower and might look cooler, but I don't recommend cutting the springs at all as it makes the ride way harsher and if you go over a bunch of bumps it can make the top of the strut tower bulge up and not be flat anymore as the hammering on it from the stiffness of the front suspension will cause that. But easy to fix with a hammer. Also if your going to be putting your motorbikey on the back like that I'd get the IPD rear wagon overload springs. That is what I do with all my wagons. Look how much your exploder goes up in the front and down in the back with that setup. Personally I use a little motorbikey trailer myself, plus I can put two on it. I'd use one of those motobikey carriers on my suckburban or my bus, but not a car...

1988 white wagon I fixed up for the GF. Stock front springs, KYB struts, IPD sway bar, cherry turbo upper strut brace, IPD lower brace. Rear has IPD 22mm bar, bilstien shocks, IPD overload springs. Still have to put the 2 inch receiver on the back. Handles great. Other thing is if you lower it in the front that changes steering geometry and you'd have to buy the kerplunky delio that fixes that. All that stuff is for racing so unless you want a race car, don't do it. For better handleing IPD front bar and upper and lower strut braces and new or good bushings and rubber strut tops is the way to go especially if your going to be driving off road you don't want it lower. Just my two cents from someone who has driven volvo's for years and up in the woods and around portland. Sure I lower my race cars for autocross racing. For rallycross, no.

Local club www.ovtuners.org

Redwood Chair · 03-03-2016, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LC4CARL

I was thinking two coils as well. Probably go one coil on the rear to start. (Got to carry my dirt bike / see photo.) This will be "stage one" of the build. Later we'll do sway bars, bushings, struts and springs.

I am thinking about doing the IPD rear track bar and some steering alignment spacers at this point. Any suggestions on spacer suppliers?

What, you're going to cripple it and then expect to do work with it?

You need to get some overloads for the back, and leave the fronts alone if you're planning on hanging a motorcycle off the back.

LC4CARL · 03-03-2016, 04:36 PM

I hear ya. If the bike and the rack (best guess 300 lbs) are too much, I may stuff some air bags in the rear coils. Or get a lightweight trailer.

Gotta look cool.

This is just a play toy, not a daily driver.

Thanks for the tip on the local club.

JerryJS8 · 03-03-2016, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LC4CARL

Your handguards are too small

LC4CARL · 03-03-2016, 06:06 PM

Lol. That was for the 24 hr last October. Always a mudder.

First race of the season (a six hr) this weekend. I'm going to be a bit rusty.

JCol91 · 03-04-2016, 09:46 AM

I had a 245 on cut springs 2 turns in the front 1 in the back, also with billy hds. Pretty good ride.

LC4CARL · 03-04-2016, 12:04 PM

Thanks. Nice to have first-hand experience.

Cleaned the garage last night. Things were getting pretty disorganized in the heat of battle. Wheel bearings / races look good. Pads and rotors look ok (like to get those dustless ceramic type, but that will keep for "stage II"). No apparent leaks from the struts. Suspension parts on the way.

I love fixing up old cars. I'm eager to get this driveable. It can be trying when you can't spend as much time as you would like on a task. Just got to accept that automotive nirvana doesn't happen overnight and enjoy the journey. Which I do: Talking, researching, trying and failing; all good stuff. Always learning. I appreciate your support, ideas, criticism. 1000 minds are better than one.

LC4CARL · 03-04-2016, 12:07 PM

Timberline?

sbabbs · 03-04-2016, 04:13 PM

Yes from a couple weeks ago.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=312508

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...&postcount=470

LC4CARL · 03-04-2016, 04:45 PM

Looks like you found an winner.

LC4CARL · 03-05-2016, 12:16 AM

Two off the coils. Struts are junk. Close eyes. Screw back together. Once she's burning gas I'll start acquiring some proper suspenders.

LC4CARL · 03-06-2016, 01:29 AM

A good day in the Man Cave. Struts hung, rubber brake lines installed (only rounded one metal line), ball joints on. I went with the power steering ball joints. Best I can tell, they have more caster than the manual steering units. Should offer more stability I suppose.

Any recommendations on alignment specs?

Bling! (I didn't know they had four pot calipers!)

LC4CARL · 03-06-2016, 01:59 AM

Motor / trans mounts, five brake lines, ball joints, caliper paint, etc: $1200 so far.

Redwood Chair · 03-06-2016, 02:02 AM

http://www.lineupshop.com/

LC4CARL · 03-06-2016, 01:56 PM

LC4CARL · 03-07-2016, 12:25 AM

Wheel bearings packed. New hard line bent. Tech tip of the day: caliper paint is still soft after 24 hours in a 50 degree garage.

LC4CARL · 03-09-2016, 12:29 AM

PS pump / rack, compressor out.

Motor mounts in. Seems to be a leak. Read something about plugged flame traps / PCV's. I'll check this first.

Positive cable looks a bit sketchy.

Found a "small" brake booster (anybody know how to adjust the pushrod?) and a tach instrument panel. Hope to have the steering rack and trans mount in tomorrow. Then battery cable, engine oil, trans fluid, diff lube, cut the rear springs, paint the rear calipers. And tires. Thinking 215/60R15's.

Redwood Chair · 03-09-2016, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LC4CARL

Found a "small" brake booster (anybody know how to adjust the pushrod?) and a tach instrument panel. Hope to have the steering rack and trans mount in tomorrow. Then battery cable, engine oil, trans fluid, diff lube, cut the rear springs, paint the rear calipers. And tires. Thinking 215/60R15's.

Going 16V + Tee?

quillc · 03-09-2016, 02:51 AM

Front main seal is leaking. Easy fix, but you have to take the timing belt off to do so. May as well replace the timing belt while you are in there.

If you are really wanting to save some weight, get the smaller Denso alternator. Smaller and weighs less. Makes changing the filter easier as well.

LC4CARL · 03-09-2016, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

Going 16V + Tee?

Someday LOL. Just looking to tidy things up for now.

03-02-2016, 04:42 PM	#51
Mikeystoy Board Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Monroe, WA	I'd like to talk you out of your a/c parts, I have a spare non a/c p/s mount. __________________ 85 Volvo 165 87 Volvo 244 81 ford courier 61 comet S22 61 dodge D300 2x) 71 Plymouth Crickets 82 Jeep wagoneer 71 Plymouth Satellite 73 Plymouth Satellite 58 Desoto Firesweep 67 Chevrolet C10 70 volvo 145 74 Sears custom st16 75 Sears custom ss16

03-03-2016, 01:20 AM	#52
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	Struts came off. Rubber brake lines: scary. Ball joints: death trap. Brake pads: good. Looks like there is plenty of camber adjustment in the slots. How many coils should I cut off? __________________ @PDXvolvo on IG

03-03-2016, 02:58 PM	#56
sbabbs Board Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rushing Lane, Scappoose, OR	Cutting the springs makes the car lower and might look cooler, but I don't recommend cutting the springs at all as it makes the ride way harsher and if you go over a bunch of bumps it can make the top of the strut tower bulge up and not be flat anymore as the hammering on it from the stiffness of the front suspension will cause that. But easy to fix with a hammer. Also if your going to be putting your motorbikey on the back like that I'd get the IPD rear wagon overload springs. That is what I do with all my wagons. Look how much your exploder goes up in the front and down in the back with that setup. Personally I use a little motorbikey trailer myself, plus I can put two on it. I'd use one of those motobikey carriers on my suckburban or my bus, but not a car... 1988 white wagon I fixed up for the GF. Stock front springs, KYB struts, IPD sway bar, cherry turbo upper strut brace, IPD lower brace. Rear has IPD 22mm bar, bilstien shocks, IPD overload springs. Still have to put the 2 inch receiver on the back. Handles great. Other thing is if you lower it in the front that changes steering geometry and you'd have to buy the kerplunky delio that fixes that. All that stuff is for racing so unless you want a race car, don't do it. For better handleing IPD front bar and upper and lower strut braces and new or good bushings and rubber strut tops is the way to go especially if your going to be driving off road you don't want it lower. Just my two cents from someone who has driven volvo's for years and up in the woods and around portland. Sure I lower my race cars for autocross racing. For rallycross, no. Local club www.ovtuners.org __________________ 1988 245 White slicktop M47 Wagon! 93 b230f. LH 2.4 STS flat flywheel. 1990 745 B230FT Getrag JohnV flywheel 240mm clutch 13c A-cam 3.54 G80 548K 1991 740SE B230FT NPR Strut braces IPD bar A cam 550cc EV14's. 3.73 G80 M90 to put in. 1995 940 White racing wagoon. 13c m90 to put in Last edited by sbabbs; 03-03-2016 at 03:29 PM..

03-03-2016, 04:36 PM	#58
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	I hear ya. If the bike and the rack (best guess 300 lbs) are too much, I may stuff some air bags in the rear coils. Or get a lightweight trailer. Gotta look cool. This is just a play toy, not a daily driver. Thanks for the tip on the local club. Last edited by LC4CARL; 03-03-2016 at 04:44 PM..

03-06-2016, 01:56 PM	#70
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	Thx!

03-03-2016, 06:06 PM	#60
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	Lol. That was for the 24 hr last October. Always a mudder. First race of the season (a six hr) this weekend. I'm going to be a bit rusty.

03-04-2016, 09:46 AM	#61
JCol91 Macaracachimba Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Back in Puerto Rico	I had a 245 on cut springs 2 turns in the front 1 in the back, also with billy hds. Pretty good ride.

03-04-2016, 12:04 PM	#62
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	Thanks. Nice to have first-hand experience. Cleaned the garage last night. Things were getting pretty disorganized in the heat of battle. Wheel bearings / races look good. Pads and rotors look ok (like to get those dustless ceramic type, but that will keep for "stage II"). No apparent leaks from the struts. Suspension parts on the way. I love fixing up old cars. I'm eager to get this driveable. It can be trying when you can't spend as much time as you would like on a task. Just got to accept that automotive nirvana doesn't happen overnight and enjoy the journey. Which I do: Talking, researching, trying and failing; all good stuff. Always learning. I appreciate your support, ideas, criticism. 1000 minds are better than one.

03-04-2016, 12:07 PM	#63
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	Timberline?

03-04-2016, 04:13 PM	#64
sbabbs Board Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rushing Lane, Scappoose, OR	Yes from a couple weeks ago. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=312508 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...&postcount=470

03-04-2016, 04:45 PM	#65
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	Looks like you found an winner.

03-05-2016, 12:16 AM	#66
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	Two off the coils. Struts are junk. Close eyes. Screw back together. Once she's burning gas I'll start acquiring some proper suspenders.

03-06-2016, 01:29 AM	#67
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	A good day in the Man Cave. Struts hung, rubber brake lines installed (only rounded one metal line), ball joints on. I went with the power steering ball joints. Best I can tell, they have more caster than the manual steering units. Should offer more stability I suppose. Any recommendations on alignment specs? Bling! (I didn't know they had four pot calipers!)

03-06-2016, 01:59 AM	#68
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	Motor / trans mounts, five brake lines, ball joints, caliper paint, etc: $1200 so far.

03-06-2016, 02:02 AM	#69
Redwood Chair K-jet For Life Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: - Stock PSI Or Bust -	http://www.lineupshop.com/

03-07-2016, 12:25 AM	#71
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	Wheel bearings packed. New hard line bent. Tech tip of the day: caliper paint is still soft after 24 hours in a 50 degree garage.

03-09-2016, 12:29 AM	#72
LC4CARL Aero challenged Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA	PS pump / rack, compressor out. Motor mounts in. Seems to be a leak. Read something about plugged flame traps / PCV's. I'll check this first. Positive cable looks a bit sketchy. Found a "small" brake booster (anybody know how to adjust the pushrod?) and a tach instrument panel. Hope to have the steering rack and trans mount in tomorrow. Then battery cable, engine oil, trans fluid, diff lube, cut the rear springs, paint the rear calipers. And tires. Thinking 215/60R15's. Last edited by LC4CARL; 03-09-2016 at 12:45 AM..

03-09-2016, 02:51 AM	#74
quillc yv1a.com Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Kitsap, Wa	Front main seal is leaking. Easy fix, but you have to take the timing belt off to do so. May as well replace the timing belt while you are in there. If you are really wanting to save some weight, get the smaller Denso alternator. Smaller and weighs less. Makes changing the filter easier as well.

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