Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log. - Page 4

Broke4speed · 11-27-2016, 03:33 PM

Spent some time making the engine-side wiring harness today. Very relaxing.

Broke4speed · 11-30-2016, 11:06 AM

Added a second output to my MS1 v2.2 last night, so now I can control the two-speed fan properly. I also encountered the 'heater pipe resting quite firmly against the 90+ manifold' issue, since I'm using the B21A pipe, and it does not have the dip in it that the turbo ones do. I tried to pull the one from the lone turbo 940 at the yard, but it was rotten to the core. I broke down and ordered one from IPD, even though I'll have to block off the port that goes to the water-cooled oil cooler, and make two mounting tabs. My water pump has the bolt on the top, and the late pipe I ordered bolts on the bottom. No biggie...I love my welder

.

Broke4speed · 12-02-2016, 11:34 AM

I'm really effing tired of not having the engine/trans in the car, so even though I don't have the metal heater pipe yet, I may button everything up and install it on sunday. I want it to RUN.

Broke4speed · 12-03-2016, 08:17 PM

Did a bit more work today...and stumbled upon something interesting. I was under the impression that all 240s had the holes for the upper firewall braces...mine doesn't. I was going to make some braces, but I guess now I won't, lol.

Finished the last of the engine wiring, cleaned the rest of the bay, degreased the tranny crossmember, driveshaft support, and that brace thing that goes under the engine at the bellhousing. I also installed the ignition module and swapped to the VW coil I'm using with the MS1.

Broke4speed · 12-04-2016, 03:19 PM

Cleaned and installed the engine-side engine mount brackets. I wasn't planning on getting new mounts, buuuuuuuuuuuuut, I think it's a necessary item. I may splurge on a tranny mount too, but it's still in good shape.

I also hooked up the fuel feed line, using the original carbed line...which is nylon, just like the efi cars. The chassis harness/fusebox also had the fuel pump wiring already in it, so I only need to run 12v to the harness at the wire going to the in-tank pump, and it runs fine. I tested it...and dumped a bunch of gas on the garage floor, lol. Still pretty happy though

.

petiww · 12-04-2016, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broke4speed

I also hooked up the fuel feed line, using the original carbed line...which is nylon, just like the efi cars. The chassis harness/fusebox also had the fuel pump wiring already in it, so I only need to run 12v to the harness at the wire going to the in-tank pump, and it runs fine. I tested it...and dumped a bunch of gas on the garage floor, lol. Still pretty happy though

.

You had nylon feed line to the carb??
I'm still thinking about replacing the nylon feedline on the B230F with the original carb steel feed line. Which is exactly the same steel line as the return line on the B230F

Broke4speed · 12-04-2016, 07:09 PM

Well, it was nylon at the tank outlet. I guess it's metal in the bay, I've never really looked at it.

Broke4speed · 12-05-2016, 10:18 PM

HA! I got pissed that it didn't look like I had the pre-existing holes for the braces, so I dug deeper into the foam insulation on the cowl. Found them

.
I feel pretty stupid, but at least they're there.

amerbritcan · 12-06-2016, 11:30 PM

I would have been thoroughly alarmed if you didn't have them

Broke4speed · 12-07-2016, 10:02 AM

...yeah...I've since learned that I was looking in the wrong spot...
It's funny how 20+ years of experience with VWs evaporates into stupidity with an unfamiliar make of car, lol.

Broke4speed · 12-07-2016, 10:04 PM

So, I'm concerned about my passenger side engine mount. While searching the forum, I found someone talking about the ones on Yoshifab. I thought they looked kinda odd, but didn't put any effort into finding out what they were, because at that point I was going to re-use the one I had.

Then today, I was at Princess Auto (Canadian Harbour Freight) and found these...

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...ds/A-p8656506e

$10 CAD for TWO. They are 1/4" too short for the pass side, but a spacer will solve that. The hardness is listed as 70, which feels a lot stiffer than the old stock mount I have now. They're also 3" in diameter, so it's almost a perfect fit. I'll definitely have to make a heat shield, but that's no biggie.

Gonna give it a shot, might as well.

[edit]These are the Yoshifab ones[/edit]

Broke4speed · 12-07-2016, 10:36 PM

Oh, I also modified a late B230FT heater pipe to fit my B21A with the 90+ manifold. The paint is drying, and once it's mounted...the engine can go back in

.

Broke4speed · 12-08-2016, 06:21 PM

So I had the afternoon off, and since it was 1*C (33.8*F), I decided to go to the junkyard. They had recently gotten a 2001 S60, and it turned out to be a T5, score!

Goodbye 13C...

Hello MINTY fresh, angled housing 16T

They cut out the catalytic converters at the yard, so I got the full dowpipe too. Comes with free bosch wideband sensor, although the wires were cut (oops).

Broke4speed · 12-10-2016, 09:57 PM

Got the 16T mounted, and a wastegate fabbed up. The stock 16T one was pooched (wouldn't react to pressure/vac, diaphragm must be torn), and there's no way I was going to use the 13C one...so I dug into the parts bin and made one up out of a spare DSM 14b can I had. Nice and big, and a decent amount of travel.

This is as close as the pics will get, I know how this place feels about fab work that's less than stellar ;).

I had to shorten the rod, so I threaded it for some preload adjustability. It was conveniently already bent, so it doesn't foul the oil return either. I am going to use the stock downpipe, cut and rotated, since it's in really good shape. I'll blend that into the 940 dp I have, and connect it to my stock DL exhaust.

Broke4speed · 12-14-2016, 07:54 PM

Since my back is mostly jello and bone splinters now, I have to work smarter, not harder. Muscling the transmission on to the engine while it's on the ground is not possible now, so I made this cart to hold the box up while the engine is dangling on the hoist. This way, no lifting and minimal muscling

.

Broke4speed · 12-15-2016, 09:02 PM

The cart worked perfectly

.

Roll the engine and trans together, with the engine on the hoist (after the FP install), install the two starter bolts in the top bolt holes to line it up, and then walk it together. No fuss, no muss, no muscling, and no back pain.

It's interesting to note that my B21A block has the proper indent and enlarged areas for the LH2.4 CPS, but no holes. Is it just mine, or do all the later (80+) have it?

amerbritcan · 12-16-2016, 12:38 AM

I love that little cart.

poulrais · 12-16-2016, 10:27 AM

Hey I've seen that 90+ mani somewhere!!

Good work done!

Broke4speed · 12-16-2016, 11:01 AM

Thanks! Yes, yes you have! Haha.
I hope to have the engine back in the bay this weekend, since it looks like it'll be a stormy one out this way. Might as well stay in the garage and work

.

poulrais · 12-16-2016, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broke4speed

Thanks! Yes, yes you have! Haha.
I hope to have the engine back in the bay this weekend, since it looks like it'll be a stormy one out this way. Might as well stay in the garage and work

.

Indeed... -35c here this morning with the wind chill factor!

Broke4speed · 12-16-2016, 02:56 PM

Same here, out my way. My subie was pretty upset this morning when I made it fire up.
The garage heater is getting cranked tomorrow!

Broke4speed · 12-16-2016, 11:49 PM

Correction, my garage heater GOT cranked tonight ;).
We had supper with friends at a local BBQ place, then when we got home I went out to the garage to judge what kind of work I'd need to do in order to get the engine in.

An hour later, it was in the bay

. Nothing is bolted in, and I have a jack holding the tranny up, but I'll address all that tomorrow.

Broke4speed · 12-18-2016, 09:25 AM

So I spent yesterday discovering all the WONDERFUL things that are different between cars with the BW55 and cars with the AW7xs.

-Need crossmember spacers. There was NO way the driveshaft would fit without them. I have pieces of 1/4 aluminum in there now, but will hopefully get some OEM parts soon.

-Shifter linkage. The BW55 is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay longer than an AW7x one. Luckily for me, I am able to confirm this detail...because all I have is the BW one, lol. Again, I'm hopefully getting an OEM one soon, but my BW55 part is in mint condition, and I have a welder, so it's not super essential.

This is all minor stuff, thankfully. I was smart enough to swap to the longer throttle valve cable and throttle cable when the engine was out, but those other two details just skipped my mind.

Broke4speed · 12-19-2016, 11:03 PM

After 4 hours of useless f**kery, I finally have a shifter linkage that works.
The big issue is that the BW55 has the adjustable end, which smacks the tailhousing of the AW71L and prevented the use of 2 or 1 on the shifter. I've made it work, but I'm not super happy with the way it turned out. BAH!

Broke4speed · 12-21-2016, 09:14 PM

Good bye, BW55...you won't be missed

. I find it amusing to see that my original cluster already had the OD Off bulb in place, so adding the factory OD harness was a piece of cake. All I have to do now is connect the final wire (12v to the solenoid), and I'm done.

11-27-2016, 03:33 PM	#76
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Spent some time making the engine-side wiring harness today. Very relaxing. __________________ 1984 244/ AQ140A / M46

12-07-2016, 10:04 PM	#86
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	So, I'm concerned about my passenger side engine mount. While searching the forum, I found someone talking about the ones on Yoshifab. I thought they looked kinda odd, but didn't put any effort into finding out what they were, because at that point I was going to re-use the one I had. Then today, I was at Princess Auto (Canadian Harbour Freight) and found these... http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...ds/A-p8656506e $10 CAD for TWO. They are 1/4" too short for the pass side, but a spacer will solve that. The hardness is listed as 70, which feels a lot stiffer than the old stock mount I have now. They're also 3" in diameter, so it's almost a perfect fit. I'll definitely have to make a heat shield, but that's no biggie. Gonna give it a shot, might as well. [edit]These are the Yoshifab ones[/edit] Last edited by Broke4speed; 12-07-2016 at 10:41 PM..

12-16-2016, 10:27 AM	#93
poulrais Board Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Quebec, CAN	Hey I've seen that 90+ mani somewhere!! Good work done! __________________ 1990, Volvo 740 16v +T 1991, Volvo 745T 16V - crushed build thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=249553

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11-30-2016, 11:06 AM	#77
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Added a second output to my MS1 v2.2 last night, so now I can control the two-speed fan properly. I also encountered the 'heater pipe resting quite firmly against the 90+ manifold' issue, since I'm using the B21A pipe, and it does not have the dip in it that the turbo ones do. I tried to pull the one from the lone turbo 940 at the yard, but it was rotten to the core. I broke down and ordered one from IPD, even though I'll have to block off the port that goes to the water-cooled oil cooler, and make two mounting tabs. My water pump has the bolt on the top, and the late pipe I ordered bolts on the bottom. No biggie...I love my welder .

12-02-2016, 11:34 AM	#78
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	I'm really effing tired of not having the engine/trans in the car, so even though I don't have the metal heater pipe yet, I may button everything up and install it on sunday. I want it to RUN.

12-03-2016, 08:17 PM	#79
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Did a bit more work today...and stumbled upon something interesting. I was under the impression that all 240s had the holes for the upper firewall braces...mine doesn't. I was going to make some braces, but I guess now I won't, lol. Finished the last of the engine wiring, cleaned the rest of the bay, degreased the tranny crossmember, driveshaft support, and that brace thing that goes under the engine at the bellhousing. I also installed the ignition module and swapped to the VW coil I'm using with the MS1.

12-04-2016, 03:19 PM	#80
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Cleaned and installed the engine-side engine mount brackets. I wasn't planning on getting new mounts, buuuuuuuuuuuuut, I think it's a necessary item. I may splurge on a tranny mount too, but it's still in good shape. I also hooked up the fuel feed line, using the original carbed line...which is nylon, just like the efi cars. The chassis harness/fusebox also had the fuel pump wiring already in it, so I only need to run 12v to the harness at the wire going to the in-tank pump, and it runs fine. I tested it...and dumped a bunch of gas on the garage floor, lol. Still pretty happy though .

12-04-2016, 07:09 PM	#82
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Well, it was nylon at the tank outlet. I guess it's metal in the bay, I've never really looked at it.

12-05-2016, 10:18 PM	#83
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	HA! I got pissed that it didn't look like I had the pre-existing holes for the braces, so I dug deeper into the foam insulation on the cowl. Found them . I feel pretty stupid, but at least they're there.

12-07-2016, 10:02 AM	#85
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	...yeah...I've since learned that I was looking in the wrong spot... It's funny how 20+ years of experience with VWs evaporates into stupidity with an unfamiliar make of car, lol.

12-07-2016, 10:36 PM	#87
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Oh, I also modified a late B230FT heater pipe to fit my B21A with the 90+ manifold. The paint is drying, and once it's mounted...the engine can go back in .

12-08-2016, 06:21 PM	#88
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	So I had the afternoon off, and since it was 1C (33.8F), I decided to go to the junkyard. They had recently gotten a 2001 S60, and it turned out to be a T5, score! Goodbye 13C... Hello MINTY fresh, angled housing 16T They cut out the catalytic converters at the yard, so I got the full dowpipe too. Comes with free bosch wideband sensor, although the wires were cut (oops).

12-10-2016, 09:57 PM	#89
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Got the 16T mounted, and a wastegate fabbed up. The stock 16T one was pooched (wouldn't react to pressure/vac, diaphragm must be torn), and there's no way I was going to use the 13C one...so I dug into the parts bin and made one up out of a spare DSM 14b can I had. Nice and big, and a decent amount of travel. This is as close as the pics will get, I know how this place feels about fab work that's less than stellar ;). I had to shorten the rod, so I threaded it for some preload adjustability. It was conveniently already bent, so it doesn't foul the oil return either. I am going to use the stock downpipe, cut and rotated, since it's in really good shape. I'll blend that into the 940 dp I have, and connect it to my stock DL exhaust.

12-14-2016, 07:54 PM	#90
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Since my back is mostly jello and bone splinters now, I have to work smarter, not harder. Muscling the transmission on to the engine while it's on the ground is not possible now, so I made this cart to hold the box up while the engine is dangling on the hoist. This way, no lifting and minimal muscling .

12-15-2016, 09:02 PM	#91
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	The cart worked perfectly . Roll the engine and trans together, with the engine on the hoist (after the FP install), install the two starter bolts in the top bolt holes to line it up, and then walk it together. No fuss, no muss, no muscling, and no back pain. It's interesting to note that my B21A block has the proper indent and enlarged areas for the LH2.4 CPS, but no holes. Is it just mine, or do all the later (80+) have it?

12-16-2016, 12:38 AM	#92
amerbritcan Hnnnnnng Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Eastern Ontario	I love that little cart.

12-16-2016, 11:01 AM	#94
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Thanks! Yes, yes you have! Haha. I hope to have the engine back in the bay this weekend, since it looks like it'll be a stormy one out this way. Might as well stay in the garage and work .

12-16-2016, 02:56 PM	#96
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Same here, out my way. My subie was pretty upset this morning when I made it fire up. The garage heater is getting cranked tomorrow!

12-16-2016, 11:49 PM	#97
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Correction, my garage heater GOT cranked tonight ;). We had supper with friends at a local BBQ place, then when we got home I went out to the garage to judge what kind of work I'd need to do in order to get the engine in. An hour later, it was in the bay . Nothing is bolted in, and I have a jack holding the tranny up, but I'll address all that tomorrow.

12-18-2016, 09:25 AM	#98
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	So I spent yesterday discovering all the WONDERFUL things that are different between cars with the BW55 and cars with the AW7xs. -Need crossmember spacers. There was NO way the driveshaft would fit without them. I have pieces of 1/4 aluminum in there now, but will hopefully get some OEM parts soon. -Shifter linkage. The BW55 is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay longer than an AW7x one. Luckily for me, I am able to confirm this detail...because all I have is the BW one, lol. Again, I'm hopefully getting an OEM one soon, but my BW55 part is in mint condition, and I have a welder, so it's not super essential. This is all minor stuff, thankfully. I was smart enough to swap to the longer throttle valve cable and throttle cable when the engine was out, but those other two details just skipped my mind.

12-19-2016, 11:03 PM	#99
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	After 4 hours of useless f**kery, I finally have a shifter linkage that works. The big issue is that the BW55 has the adjustable end, which smacks the tailhousing of the AW71L and prevented the use of 2 or 1 on the shifter. I've made it work, but I'm not super happy with the way it turned out. BAH!

12-21-2016, 09:14 PM	#100
Broke4speed Board Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada	Good bye, BW55...you won't be missed . I find it amusing to see that my original cluster already had the OD Off bulb in place, so adding the factory OD harness was a piece of cake. All I have to do now is connect the final wire (12v to the solenoid), and I'm done.