My '78 242 L33 turbo build - Page 7

BR1CKHOUS3 · 02-07-2019, 11:43 PM

Nice score!

Reminded me to dig for some of your wanted parts too

2turbotoys · 02-09-2019, 10:32 PM

Thanks, let me know if ya find any. I pm'd ya a while ago, did ya get it?

Chopped and painted 740 T from my old car lives on..

Ya I got the Stack gauges...never seen that many wire on a gauge before haha, will be adding a matching coolant temp gauge.

Holes to put gauges into, need those I guess, the pillar will be AFR and boost

Some NOS fender emblems, these jumped out at me because there is no engine size on the bottom, which is odd. Needs a 5.3 there!

M.H. Yount · 02-09-2019, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2turbotoys

Some NOS fender emblems, these jumped out at me because there is no engine size on the bottom, which is odd. Needs a 5.3 there!

It's do-able.

2turbotoys · 02-09-2019, 10:36 PM

Nice! is that paint or vinyl? Font?

M.H. Yount · 02-09-2019, 10:45 PM

Vinyl - Dave Barton did 'em for me. I think he attempts to come close to the original font. Your 2's and mine/his look pretty similar.

2turbotoys · 02-09-2019, 10:48 PM

Dave is the man, he nailed on your emblems I think. I'll hit him up. Thanks!

M.H. Yount · 02-09-2019, 10:52 PM

Shouldn't be a problem. I cleaned the emblem up, painted it, detailed the 'dental molding' at the top - and then stuck on his decals.

2turbotoys · 02-09-2019, 10:58 PM

Perfect, thanks for the tip. These are NOS emblems with a touch of shelf wear so shouldn't need much.

Old Iron · 02-09-2019, 11:29 PM

Is that a legit three pod or a repro?

2turbotoys · 02-10-2019, 09:40 PM

It's an Autometer, fraction of the cost, not as cool, but I just am having trouble justifying the cost of the repop, and original is inunobtainium and even harder to justify the cost. I can see it if you are doing a real restoration, but this is just a "resto-mod" car. I will have to make a nice plate to mount it to. Dave Barton made a very nice one off repop of the rally gauge, and I will probably mount it in a similar way to his, but black anodized aluminum base and maybe a textured wrap over the pod.

2turbotoys · 03-05-2019, 09:24 PM

Hmmm, that doesn't fit very well...

Trying to get a rough idea of where things end up with a 17x10" rim, so I borrowed a damaged wheel from a friends BMW race car, Hoosier 275/35-17. It is touching the studs of a 32mm spacer. Lowering the car down, it can go inboard about 1".
Also trying to determine how wide I want the rear to be, as well as the backspacing of the wheels I have to order so I can lose the spacers.

RvolvoR · 03-06-2019, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2turbotoys

Hmmm, that doesn't fit very well...

Trying to get a rough idea of where things end up with a 17x10" rim, so I borrowed a damaged wheel from a friends BMW race car, Hoosier 275/35-17. It is touching the studs of a 32mm spacer. Lowering the car down, it can go inboard about 1".
Also trying to determine how wide I want the rear to be, as well as the backspacing of the wheels I have to order so I can lose the spacers.

for a 10" wheel to fit up front, you need a wheel with around a -5mm offset.

blkaplan · 03-06-2019, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RvolvoR

for a 10" wheel to fit up front, you need a wheel with around a -5mm offset.

Yep, thats correct. Also 10" wheel et0 in the back seems to be a good amount if you have a coilover conversion and skinnier trailing arms.

8.5 width is really the max you can do without committing to major body work. unless you really stretch a skinny tire on.

Driving a 240 with 10" wide wheels is an awesome experience but sometimes unless you are racing the car, i wonder if its worth it.

RvolvoR · 03-06-2019, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkaplan

Yep, thats correct. Also 10" wheel et0 in the back seems to be a good amount if you have a coilover conversion and skinnier trailing arms.

8.5 width is really the max you can do without committing to major body work. unless you really stretch a skinny tire on.

Driving a 240 with 10" wide wheels is an awesome experience but sometimes unless you are racing the car, i wonder if its worth it.

yep, plus the added scrub radius on the street can make for some...interesting...handling characteristics

2turbotoys · 03-06-2019, 09:00 PM

I will have your adjustable arms and JRZPro coilovers, ordered them and just waiting for them

. I'm pretty sure it doesn't need 10" wide wheels on the front, was going to go 9". It just seems you need a 10" in the rear to have enough rubber on the road.
My current rear rims are about ET6 and are really really close on the inside of the wheelwell with 8" wide rims and a 245/40-17 tire...also if I remember correctly the 9" rear is going to have a wider track than the stock one by a few inches, I gotta look that up again.
I hope the handling doesn't get "interesting" in a bad way..

blkaplan · 03-07-2019, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2turbotoys

I will have your adjustable arms and JRZPro coilovers, ordered them and just waiting for them

. I'm pretty sure it doesn't need 10" wide wheels on the front, was going to go 9". It just seems you need a 10" in the rear to have enough rubber on the road.
My current rear rims are about ET6 and are really really close on the inside of the wheelwell with 8" wide rims and a 245/40-17 tire...also if I remember correctly the 9" rear is going to have a wider track than the stock one by a few inches, I gotta look that up again.
I hope the handling doesn't get "interesting" in a bad way..

a 17x9 can run a 255 40 17. Those are a really nice size tire. Much less intrusive amount of work then a 17 x 10 and something like a 295.

2turbotoys · 03-07-2019, 09:59 PM

Hmm, I'll look at that. I just want to be able to launch really hard...

M.H. Yount · 03-07-2019, 11:35 PM

What kind of et’s and mph are you anticipating? Andrew W. ran 9.99 @ 141 with a 1.6’ 60’ on 235 street radials.

2turbotoys · 03-08-2019, 10:26 PM

Unless I start planning a cage I only have 1 shot at a good drag run haha, my local track is Maple Grove Raceway and will boot you in a second for running faster than your gear. I have to find out what they require, the NHRA rulebook is a little different than track rules, and I am not sure if I can just get away with a rollbar or not. That being said I have no real goals as far as et goes, I would love to hit the 10's though, I don't know if that's realistic with the mere 450 NA hp the car is starting off with.
I do know what a 1.6 60ft feels like, doing that on the track vs from a stoplight does require a bit more traction though.

2turbotoys · 03-11-2019, 08:29 PM

Got my steering wheel from Mota Lita today, check out the nice metal horn button emblem!

cosbySweater · 03-11-2019, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2turbotoys

Unless I start planning a cage I only have 1 shot at a good drag run haha, my local track is Maple Grove Raceway and will boot you in a second for running faster than your gear. I have to find out what they require, the NHRA rulebook is a little different than track rules, and I am not sure if I can just get away with a rollbar or not. That being said I have no real goals as far as et goes, I would love to hit the 10's though, I don't know if that's realistic with the mere 450 NA hp the car is starting off with.
I do know what a 1.6 60ft feels like, doing that on the track vs from a stoplight does require a bit more traction though.

Run half track passes and dial in 1/8th mile. Then give it the beans

2turbotoys · 03-12-2019, 08:11 PM

Haha, good idea

2turbotoys · 03-22-2019, 11:08 PM

New Mota Lita steering wheel installed...

And failed at installing wagon springs, I read a ton of threads about this and decided 1.5 coils cut off was a good way to go, but didn't consider those guys were using a more stockish wheel/tire combo. I figured I gotta add my mistakes to my build thread...I ordered IPD lowering springs hoping they are tall enough. Oops, shoulda left them alone and had the rear jacked up a bit temporarily.
The reason I'm doing any of this at all is because the factory springs are so worn that my tires bang into my fenders over bigger bumps. I am waiting for my rear coilover/suspension parts to arrive but need to do something to have the car driveable. Its obviously not at the moment...

Shop manager B had to add a bloop to this

2turbotoys · 03-31-2019, 09:49 PM

The IPD lowering springs helped a bit, stiffer, but it is only about 1/4" higher. They sell 1/2" spacers to raise it up a but, but don't give a p/n, so I sent an email. They replied to me several times trying to diagnose why my cars wheels are so far back in the wells, and why I am scraping, I appreciate they are so helpful but I already know the answers to all that (which I explained fully), I just want the dam spacers so I don't ram my tires into the arches for the next couple months till I get my rear coilover parts. I still have not got a part number or invoice for the parts I want.

On my test drive today, for some reason the car decided it need to shimmy hard under braking, it sat for 2 months, and was fine before that. I did nothing to the front suspension or brakes in that time. So gotta dig into that

wtf

How it sits now:

2turbotoys · 04-11-2019, 08:44 PM

Some small progress updates, brake shimmy fixed itself after a bunch of miles, my engine is now at the shop and I will be swapping out the bolt on stuff (oil pan, headers, etc.) this week as I am currently in between jobs. Amazing how much you can get done if you don't go to work...
Since I'm sure no one remembers (this project is taking forever...) I bought a use factory gas tank to replace mine because the tabs that hold the sending unit in place are too beat up to keep the sending unit in place. I stripped the undercoating off using a heat gun, an expired Subway gift card, and acetone for the little bit of residue left. If anyone else does this I would suggest MEK instead of acetone, it doesn't evaporate immediately leaving smears all over.
I then took it to my local radiator repair shop because they have those big ass dip tanks to clean stuff in. They cleaned and coated the inside, and I picked it up this afternoon.

During the undercoat removal. Ya I know there is weird stuff in the background, previous homeowners did some hippy paintings on my garage door.

An entire spraycan of Krylon Automotive self etching primer applied

An entire can of Rustoleum satin black enamel applied to the top, will repeat that tomorrow on the bottom half

Coated tank guts. I forget what it is exactly, but it is reparable if something happens to it.

02-09-2019, 10:32 PM	#152
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	Thanks, let me know if ya find any. I pm'd ya a while ago, did ya get it? Chopped and painted 740 T from my old car lives on.. Ya I got the Stack gauges...never seen that many wire on a gauge before haha, will be adding a matching coolant temp gauge. Holes to put gauges into, need those I guess, the pillar will be AFR and boost Some NOS fender emblems, these jumped out at me because there is no engine size on the bottom, which is odd. Needs a 5.3 there! __________________ Feedback thread https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=144924 1978 242, 5.3 L33 1979 242, MS, R brakes 2006 V50 T5 AWD @ 17 PSI

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02-09-2019, 10:36 PM	#154
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	Nice! is that paint or vinyl? Font?

02-09-2019, 10:45 PM	#155
M.H. Yount Board Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Charlotte, NC	Vinyl - Dave Barton did 'em for me. I think he attempts to come close to the original font. Your 2's and mine/his look pretty similar.

02-09-2019, 10:48 PM	#156
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	Dave is the man, he nailed on your emblems I think. I'll hit him up. Thanks!

02-09-2019, 10:52 PM	#157
M.H. Yount Board Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Charlotte, NC	Shouldn't be a problem. I cleaned the emblem up, painted it, detailed the 'dental molding' at the top - and then stuck on his decals.

02-09-2019, 10:58 PM	#158
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	Perfect, thanks for the tip. These are NOS emblems with a touch of shelf wear so shouldn't need much.

02-10-2019, 09:40 PM	#160
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	It's an Autometer, fraction of the cost, not as cool, but I just am having trouble justifying the cost of the repop, and original is inunobtainium and even harder to justify the cost. I can see it if you are doing a real restoration, but this is just a "resto-mod" car. I will have to make a nice plate to mount it to. Dave Barton made a very nice one off repop of the rally gauge, and I will probably mount it in a similar way to his, but black anodized aluminum base and maybe a textured wrap over the pod.

03-05-2019, 09:24 PM	#161
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	Hmmm, that doesn't fit very well... Trying to get a rough idea of where things end up with a 17x10" rim, so I borrowed a damaged wheel from a friends BMW race car, Hoosier 275/35-17. It is touching the studs of a 32mm spacer. Lowering the car down, it can go inboard about 1". Also trying to determine how wide I want the rear to be, as well as the backspacing of the wheels I have to order so I can lose the spacers.

03-06-2019, 09:00 PM	#165
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	I will have your adjustable arms and JRZPro coilovers, ordered them and just waiting for them . I'm pretty sure it doesn't need 10" wide wheels on the front, was going to go 9". It just seems you need a 10" in the rear to have enough rubber on the road. My current rear rims are about ET6 and are really really close on the inside of the wheelwell with 8" wide rims and a 245/40-17 tire...also if I remember correctly the 9" rear is going to have a wider track than the stock one by a few inches, I gotta look that up again. I hope the handling doesn't get "interesting" in a bad way..

03-07-2019, 09:59 PM	#167
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	Hmm, I'll look at that. I just want to be able to launch really hard...

03-07-2019, 11:35 PM	#168
M.H. Yount Board Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Charlotte, NC	What kind of et’s and mph are you anticipating? Andrew W. ran 9.99 @ 141 with a 1.6’ 60’ on 235 street radials.

03-08-2019, 10:26 PM	#169
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	Unless I start planning a cage I only have 1 shot at a good drag run haha, my local track is Maple Grove Raceway and will boot you in a second for running faster than your gear. I have to find out what they require, the NHRA rulebook is a little different than track rules, and I am not sure if I can just get away with a rollbar or not. That being said I have no real goals as far as et goes, I would love to hit the 10's though, I don't know if that's realistic with the mere 450 NA hp the car is starting off with. I do know what a 1.6 60ft feels like, doing that on the track vs from a stoplight does require a bit more traction though.

03-11-2019, 08:29 PM	#170
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	Got my steering wheel from Mota Lita today, check out the nice metal horn button emblem!

03-12-2019, 08:11 PM	#172
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	Haha, good idea

03-22-2019, 11:08 PM	#173
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	New Mota Lita steering wheel installed... And failed at installing wagon springs, I read a ton of threads about this and decided 1.5 coils cut off was a good way to go, but didn't consider those guys were using a more stockish wheel/tire combo. I figured I gotta add my mistakes to my build thread...I ordered IPD lowering springs hoping they are tall enough. Oops, shoulda left them alone and had the rear jacked up a bit temporarily. The reason I'm doing any of this at all is because the factory springs are so worn that my tires bang into my fenders over bigger bumps. I am waiting for my rear coilover/suspension parts to arrive but need to do something to have the car driveable. Its obviously not at the moment... Shop manager B had to add a bloop to this

03-31-2019, 09:49 PM	#174
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	The IPD lowering springs helped a bit, stiffer, but it is only about 1/4" higher. They sell 1/2" spacers to raise it up a but, but don't give a p/n, so I sent an email. They replied to me several times trying to diagnose why my cars wheels are so far back in the wells, and why I am scraping, I appreciate they are so helpful but I already know the answers to all that (which I explained fully), I just want the dam spacers so I don't ram my tires into the arches for the next couple months till I get my rear coilover parts. I still have not got a part number or invoice for the parts I want. On my test drive today, for some reason the car decided it need to shimmy hard under braking, it sat for 2 months, and was fine before that. I did nothing to the front suspension or brakes in that time. So gotta dig into that wtf How it sits now:

04-11-2019, 08:44 PM	#175
2turbotoys Salaminizer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Reading pa	Some small progress updates, brake shimmy fixed itself after a bunch of miles, my engine is now at the shop and I will be swapping out the bolt on stuff (oil pan, headers, etc.) this week as I am currently in between jobs. Amazing how much you can get done if you don't go to work... Since I'm sure no one remembers (this project is taking forever...) I bought a use factory gas tank to replace mine because the tabs that hold the sending unit in place are too beat up to keep the sending unit in place. I stripped the undercoating off using a heat gun, an expired Subway gift card, and acetone for the little bit of residue left. If anyone else does this I would suggest MEK instead of acetone, it doesn't evaporate immediately leaving smears all over. I then took it to my local radiator repair shop because they have those big ass dip tanks to clean stuff in. They cleaned and coated the inside, and I picked it up this afternoon. During the undercoat removal. Ya I know there is weird stuff in the background, previous homeowners did some hippy paintings on my garage door. An entire spraycan of Krylon Automotive self etching primer applied An entire can of Rustoleum satin black enamel applied to the top, will repeat that tomorrow on the bottom half Coated tank guts. I forget what it is exactly, but it is reparable if something happens to it.