My '91 744 B204GT project

[tomasss]

lower strut braces from 960 installed today...one extra hole on each side drilled and fits like oem the steering rack banjo needs to be tightened/resealed though.

[tomasss]

Continuing with the front brake lines and flushing it

[tomasss]

It looks like there is no progress, but it is actually the opposite - I have been so busy that I even had no time to post updates...

At first, I have received the polyurethane bushes from Strongflex. It fits perfectly and seems like a really good quality from reviews. I took a combination of the red and yellow (harder) to keep the car still bit more comfortable.







Also, lots of other new parts; all Lemforder (OEM) brand:
- axle tie rods + dust-boots
- steering joints
- lower ball joints

Not surprisingly almost every part that I took out was worn out quite over the limit.

Also, my >>> rebuilt turbocharger <<< finally arrived back so I have started with putting the MBC



And then here I have question to turbobricks:



This is an adapter that I've got from JW240 here on turbobricks. When we were discussing the swap of the cosworth exhaust housing, Jan wrote to me:

"I made a stainless steel adapter ring to attach the flat flanged turbine housings to the Volvo manifold."

Do I need to use it? It seems to me that both the opening on the exhaust manifold side and the turbo exhaust flange are square...and the adapter has round hole. I don't understand the benefit of adding the adapter. There was no gasket when I disassembled the manifold from the turbo...

[DET17]

Does the JW adapter allow the flush mounting of the turbo and exhaust mani? I can't imagine another purpose for it. With a pair of flush surfaces, you can assemble with a coating of heavy grease which upon high temps will carbonize and create a gasket. I understand this is a common trick used on diesel turbos in the States.

Nice work, following your progress!

[tomasss]

Yes, on both sides it allows flush mounting. But the manifold has a groove on the mating surface, it is not stepped from the base but I am thinking it might be for some kind of heat expansion? Because the other side of the original turbo looks like this...



Interesting thought about the grease, I was just thinking how do I create an air sealed connection...so I just grease both sides with good amount of wheel bearing grease and assemble it and it will bake during idling? I was more thinking about the exhaust mount paste...

By the way this is the gap that I'll need to seal with it, it is not big but not air tight...
And yeah, no EGTC sensor anymore!

[tomasss]

While crawling under the car, I also noticed that the front edge of the driver's wheel well is rusted. Originally I wanted to keep it to someone with welder, but later I just couldn't resist to give it a shot. I simply cut out the rusty section, applied the rust converter to the bare metal, replaced the structure with new metal tabs and sealed it back using polymer sealant combined with glass fiber reinforcement. Then several layers of undercoating at the end. Should be at least better than it was if nothing else

[tomasss]

As I have ditched the TCU from the car completely, I needed a new way to control the low & high speed of the fan.
So using the Revotec hose insert with M14 thread and the popular dual temperature switch from BMW, I simply connected the outputs of the sensor to the wires that were originally driven with the TCU.

[Broke4speed]

Nice. I'm using the two speed BMW switch too. Works great .

[tomasss]

Getting ready with the turbo. Used the wheel bearing grease on the mating surfaces to seal it, also Nord Lock washers to be sure the turbo stays where it is supposed to







Also, I scored set of Adhara 16" wheels...it was quite faded so I gave it some cleaning, priming and silver respray with lacquer finish. I am super happy how it came out especially considering it is just a cheap rattle-can job...







And finally finished the front axle bushings, every single rubber there is now replaced with PU

[Vol242vo]

I’ve always liked the look of Adharas. You’re doing a really nice job on everything.

[brickborg]

Looks fantastic- love to see a 7er get some love like this. Adharas will look great on this car too. Nice work!

[J2_]

Those are Auriga('s). Not Adhara. Adhara is 15" 16(?) Spoke wheel.

[tomasss]

Yeah indeed, Auriga

Btw tires mounted (Toyo Proxes Tr1, it has quite good ratings about the grip that I will probably need).

[tomasss]

Some slow progress after the vacation...new horns replacing the rusty disintegrating ones

[tomasss]

Based on my not very positive PU engine mounts height feedback to retroturbo Peter made a new series of mounts for 7xx with 16v engine! The new ones are 104mm high (the same as the original hydromounts) and therefore no shims are required. These should be available soon via his shop.

[tomasss]

While going through the old parts removed during the turbo rebuild, I also noticed the CBV membrane was already torn...good that I converted to the external piston type CBV as a preventive action

[Vol242vo]

Quench your thirst.

[tomasss]

Based on one of my friend's feedback rebuilding the same engine, I've decided to replace the hydraulic valve lifters just to be sure.
What a lucky decision all of them are badly leaking.
The valve cover is clean, and I mean so clean that I have never seen such a clean one...not sure how is that possible, there is not a single carbon deposit on it. Also the valvetrain is exceptionally clean...

[tomasss]

Assembly time...



New lifters and spark plug hole o-rings in!



New gaskets, seals, stainless cam gear dowel pins from IPD

[JW240]

Looking good!

The turbo adapter is meant to be mounted that way. I did use a regular T3 gasket with it but that's probably not absolutely necessary. Volvo sells a nice stainless steel gasket for ~2000+ turbo models but if the adapter/plate is not moving around I'd leave it exactly like this

[Karinsky]

Nice project ! Keep up the good work Just been reading the whole thread
btw. don't you expect problems at the MOT car inspection with those coloured PU bushings ?
About the oil pump bolt 10,9 do you have a partnumber of that maybe ?
I changed the cogwheel+bolt at my NA 16V but ... I just checked the pictures and the bolt seems the OEM one 8,8 grade again pfff... bad or not ?

[tomasss]

I might just respray the bushings with the black undercoating to give it stock look the Belgian MOT is actually one big unknown for me...never went for it before. But what I heard is that for oldtimers they are much more forgiving.
The OEM bolt of the oil pump is 8.8 grade no matter if you have a old/new one. I simply went to Fabory in Brussels and bough the equivalent in 10.9.

[tomasss]

Small complication with the turbo, the cosworth exhaust housing bolt pattern is different from the original Volvo one, so the bolts are about 1cm more far from each other. That causes the original downpipe flange not to fit anymore. So the flange has been modified (drilled holes extended towards the outer side) and I have fabricated a wide washers to spread the tension.





Also, oil return conversion kit from Yoshifab installed! (I really can't wait to drive this car out of the garage and give the engine compartment some good pressure wash)

[Karinsky]

Thx for the info about Fabory, I think I can not order there because of needed VAT number, but okay. There are other shops like that as well
About the PU bushings, if I were you I would sand them down a bit and spray them black to be sure... Because if it's not original, big chance that they will disapprove the car.
Cool thing the Yoshifab oil return line, would be a good upgrade for mine also The only problem are the custom taxes I think ... $$

[tomasss]

Hmmm...ok. How do they know what is original and what not? I doubt there is anyone at the MOT who knows exactly how things should look on a 30 years old car. I have lots of modifications in the engine bay but it mostly looks completely stock. But yeah the red/yellow PU bushes might be too much.
The return kit came without any custom taxes btw