patrickstars 1983 242 4.8L/AR5 swap

[Uncleknucklez]

This is V interesting, I like the AR5 Transmissions I have rowed in the past, seems like a legit option for ellis/manual swaps. I'm going to keep an eye on this.

[Hank Scorpio]

I am curious about this ar5 as well. What’s the verdict on the actual power handling? Seems like they aren’t rated very high from AW.

[M.H. Yount]

For V8 use, the other interesting aspect is the 3.75 or 3.95 first gear ratio....

[77volvo245]

I haven't had an issue with a two piece and using our HD center support bearing. been running one for the last two years with no issues.

[Harlard]

Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio

I am curious about this ar5 as well. What’s the verdict on the actual power handling? Seems like they aren’t rated very high from AW.

They hold 900whp per the Denmah

[RvolvoR]

Originally Posted by Harlard

They hold 900whp per the Denmah

2jz guys have pushed them pretty far as well as they are a more/less bolt in replacement for an r154.

[RvolvoR]

Originally Posted by patrickstar

I regret that I didn't do more research before buying the truck AR5, if I had bought one from a Solstice or Sky, I think it would fit perfect. Can't confirm though

I have a solstice ar5 behind a white block in my project 242...with a jzx100 shift housing, the shifter lines up in the hole (towards the back of it, but it’ll work fine) without drama.

[RvolvoR]

Originally Posted by patrickstar

Interesting, I would have thought slip-yolk would be more attractive. Any reason why you prefer the CV?

From what I can tell, if you get the slingshot tailhousing you can bolt on toyota shifters, so thats definitely a plus. They're just more expensive from the get-go

Also, drift motion makes a CV to 1310 flange adapter...

[RvolvoR]

Originally Posted by M.H. Yount

I was under the impression he was gonna one-piece it....

A 1 piece shaft on anything somewhat low slams into the rear structure of the car around the seatbelt area and is also nearly impossible to get pinion angle set perfectly with no vibes.

[M.H. Yount]

Originally Posted by RvolvoR

A 1 piece shaft on anything somewhat low slams into the rear structure of the car around the seatbelt area and is also nearly impossible to get pinion angle set perfectly with no vibes.

Simply not true....said the guy with one that's been somewhat low and had a one piece driveshaft behind V8 power spinning smooth as glass since 1996.

If you get it very low and you hit a big enough bump (compression) with soft enough springs -- it does indeed want to hit on the passenger side about 2/3 or way back.

[Harlard]

Your car is nowhere near close to low, Michael.

[RvolvoR]

Originally Posted by M.H. Yount

Simply not true....said the guy with one that's been somewhat low and had a one piece driveshaft behind V8 power spinning smooth as glass since 1996.

If you get it very low and you hit a big enough bump (compression) with soft enough springs -- it does indeed want to hit on the passenger side about 2/3 or way back.

straight up, you're wrong and you also need to stop posting on every single thread like you know everything about every car and every engine. I and multiple others have tried 1 piece driveshafts (on multiple cars) and it doesn't work if the car is more than an inch or so lower than stock. Also, it lowers the critical speed of the driveshaft and makes setting pinion angle more of a pain.

[RvolvoR]

Originally Posted by Harlard

Your car is nowhere near close to low, Michael.

he probably thinks ipd springs are slammed.

[M.H. Yount]

Nothing quite like a little Sunday night turbobricks drama over what "somewhat low" means....LOL.

Repetitive -- but relevant given the OP's project. Can you lower one noticeably and make a one-piece work? No doubt. Can you get one low enough that you have clearance issues with a one-piece? Of course you can.

For the OP's swap, you've got to pay attention to pinion angle and the new engine tranny angle no matter which driveshaft approach you choose. You've also got to pay attention to how high (or low) the engine/tranny combo is mounted. Might you need adjustable length upper arms to make things work? You might, depending on the set up. In my case - 15 years with stock upper arms and a one piece driveshaft, lower than stock but not "slammed" -- no vibrations. That's with a different engine/tranny and a lot of attention paid to the height and angle it was mounted at.

As for critical speed - not sure why anyone would put a one-piece in without designing it for the critical speed that's needed for how the car is gonna be used. Plenty of online calculators (not a complex calc) to help most anyone determine what OD and wall thickness they're gonna need (in AL or steel) so they don't have a critical speed problem. ANY reputable driveshaft shop will look into that as a matter of course. And plenty of people who just picked something up at the junkyard that was the right length and then were surprised when it failed - often spectacularly. Anyone who has a bit of experience successfully swapping drivelines knows this stuff.

Lots of lowered V8/240's out there with both one-piece and two-piece driveshafts that work just fine. And some that don't work fine, usually because the swapper didn't understand how the changes were gonna affect things. Two-piece or one-piece can work - they just present different challenges. With any car/truck -- if you're gonna put it on the ground -- you're gonna have clearance issues with a one-piece. That shouldn't surprise anyone that's paying attention to the right things.

It's not rocket science guys, at least if it's not your first rodeo.

[RvolvoR]

A v8 has literally nothing to do with with.

[RvolvoR]

Also, if you have stock torque rods on your car, it means 2-3 things to me...you don't actually use your car, your car has no grip, and you probably have some ungodly vibrations with a 1 piece driveshaft (or you just don't know what its actually supposed to feel like).

[volvo?]

Ill just put my 2c in. I have had my car swapped for about 4 years now (5.3 with a t56, used to be 4L60E). I have a 1pc driveshaft, I am not low at all and I used to be able to make it rub on the body. I used my fine adjusting hammer and now it doesn't rub. It's under the car and nobody sees it so I don't care. If I were to do it again I might do a 2pc shaft but its a toss up. I didn't really pay any attention to the angles and have stock torque rods, no bad vibes here. Build it however it works for you, If you can swap a engine in the car you can certainly build another trans mount if you don't like the first one.

Originally Posted by RvolvoR

you also need to stop posting on every single thread like you know everything about every car and every engine.

also, I have to agree with RvolvoR on this subject. I understand this is a public forum and all but there is always more than 1 way to skin a cat.

Jeremy

[Texas240]

Originally Posted by RvolvoR

A 1 piece shaft on anything somewhat low slams into the rear structure of the car around the seatbelt area and is also nearly impossible to get pinion angle set perfectly with no vibes.

This is true and Im not slammed and I'm still getting some vibes with a correct angle on my rear end.

[patrickstar]

Originally Posted by Hank Scorpio

I am curious about this ar5 as well. What’s the verdict on the actual power handling? Seems like they aren’t rated very high from AW.

Well, I'm gonna stay out of any drama. The AR5 is rated to handle 260ft-lbs of torque stock, but the maker of the kit is drag racing a LS swapped Colorado with 800hp/800tq. It did finally blow up, but I'm planning on half that power so I think I'll be safe. Michael is right, the first gear is very short, I'll likely need to regear at some point.


On the topic of driveshafts, I'm planning on a two piece shaft with the HD center support.

[patrickstar]

The shifter guy is still dicking around, so I moved ahead and ordered an intake. FAST 78mm from eBay. Did some research and people say it flows better than a LS6 intake, and can accept an 85mm TB easily. If I don't like it I'll sell but I think this will be a good fit for my power goals.

[patrickstar]

Received my FAST 78mm intake from eBay, came with a throttle body and summit fuel rails. Ordered a walbro 255, bosch 40lb injectors, and a C5 corvette FPR/filter. I've been on the road for vacation the last few weeks, haven't had time to do anything to the car other than make orders for parts

[patrickstar]

Dash removed, buying a black dash from a friend for $75. Working on a shifter relocation setup for the AR5, but was set back when we broke the shift ball for the stock shifter. Lots of parts arriving in the next week as well

[Vol242vo]

Looking good, floors look very solid!

[patrickstar]

Originally Posted by Vol242vo

Looking good, floors look very solid!

Yep, car is solid throughout. There is a small puncture hole near clutch pedal (about where your heel would sit) and I'm a little afraid to pull up the windshield, but the rest is great.




My buddy has started his own powdercoating company and had these on the shelf. Wrinkle black with a touch of silver metallic.

[patrickstar]

Finally got my hydraulic clutch and master bolted up. I had one or two many beers and couldn't go get a hole saw bit, so I drilled 4 large holes, punched out the middle, and used a hand file to make the center hole large enough. I probably could have walked to the hardware store quicker than it took me to do all that, oh well.



Gonna go pick up a black dashboard tonight and clean out the interior. Friday I'm towing it to a friends work where he'll help me fabricate a transmission crossmember and do a few things under the car.