1977 Volvo 242 project-b6304/T5

[Broke4speed]

The wiring is easy. Just concentrate on the needs of the engine harness. The cabin stuff, unless it was already non-functional, won't need to be touched.

[thatcher.hubbard]

I'm happy to share the Google Sheets doc I made that identifies what each wire/pin in the 960 harness goes to is for. It's not the holy grail or anything, but it would save you the scut work of figuring out what each pin is for on the two ECU connectors. I also have the PDF of the manual that include the wiring diagrams if you don't have it already.

Everybody else is right. I got intimidated by the wiring on a K-Jet to EFI swap I did years ago, kind of my first big car project, and when it came time to actually do it, it just wasn't that bad. You already put the effort in to get the whole harness out of the donor car, that's probably going to be hardest part.

[rms]

Originally Posted by thatcher.hubbard

I'm happy to share the Google Sheets doc I made that identifies what each wire/pin in the 960 harness goes to is for. It's not the holy grail or anything, but it would save you the scut work of figuring out what each pin is for on the two ECU connectors. I also have the PDF of the manual that include the wiring diagrams if you don't have it already.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. thatcher.hubbard, I have a link to a Google drive that has tons of wiring diagrams and pinouts...I'm assuming that must be yours. Great info, thank you!

The engine and engine bay harness seem very reasonable. What has me baffled is where the engine bay harness connects inside the cabin to the computer and branches off multiple times to another fuse panel, several relays, and everything else in the interior. Sorting through and separating that has me overwhelmed. The amount of wiring under the dash is insane. I guess if I just concentrate on the M4.4 pinout wiring, that will simplify things. Then I can figure out how to mesh it with the 242 wiring and go from there. In the back of my mind however, I'm asking myself if this is all worth the 181HP at the end of the tunnel. I'm going to continue as planned, but I am exploring other drive train options. Thanks guys.

[thatcher.hubbard]

If you have a link, it's probably not mine, I hadn't shared it with anyone yet because I don't consider it 100% complete. I'd be real interested to see what you do have as a check on the accuracy of my own.

It's true that the difference in the total amount of wiring between the 240 and 960 is pretty massive.

I think that trying to figure out the full path of each wire to begin with can be confusing because of all the intermediate connectors, so I focused on just figuring out what was at the each end and I'm working backwards from there in terms of figuring out what gets cut and re-pinned into my firewall barrel connector.

I knew that in terms of horsepower per dollar, a +T on my existing B230F would be a better deal, I just wanted an inline six. You could always +T that like Broke4Speed has done.

[rms]

This is the link I have, found it on this forum. If you have anything greater, let me know. I can't have enough diagrams.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...M2M2YxZDRhZTVk

I'm like you, I wanted this smooth inline six...thought it would be neat in the 242. This is my first Volvo and a step out of my comfort zone. I've been a muscle car guy all my life, but needed to broaden my horizons a bit. I just absolutely love the early 122, 142, and 242 so here I am.

[rms]

Just in case anyone wondered what the interior only wiring looks like from a 960, stuffed in a paper box. Regardless of what I use off this, I'll have a lifetime of quality wiring and connectors.

[brickcupra]

Hey Igot my locker and i am already working on it. It took less time to take it apart than what i had expected. Oil was stinky and cruddy so i washed the inside with brake cleaner. Hoping next week to begin reassembly and installation of the locker into the 1031 hosing including new shocks and lower control bars welded just like yours. I am a welder so is a walk in the park
take care and nice job.
DZ

[rms]

Originally Posted by brickcupra

Hey Igot my locker and i am already working on it. It took less time to take it apart than what i had expected. Oil was stinky and cruddy so i washed the inside with brake cleaner. Hoping next week to begin reassembly and installation of the locker into the 1031 hosing including new shocks and lower control bars welded just like yours. I am a welder so is a walk in the park
take care and nice job.
DZ

Sounds good, thx! I'm looking forward to swapping in the G80 I pulled at the junkyard. I'll get to it one day soon hopefully.

[rms]

I started working on the rear axle I pulled from a 1990 240 at the junkyard. I got it so I could run a G80 locker. Pulled it all apart, it seems to be in real nice shape inside, with 3.73 gears. Something funny I noticed when pulling the axles out though, the axle bearing races I could slide out by hand. That seems very odd to me, however they didn't spin in the axle tubes.

Edit: Looks like that's normal for these Dana axles.

[rms]

Finished up the G80 swap today. Had to cut roughly 3/16" off the passenger axle, but I expected that from what I've read. I'm so impressed with my Milwaukee saw and Swag table. It cut through the axle so easily. Installed new inner seals and repacked the wheel bearings. I just need to power wash the axle and it's ready to go back under.

[3wagons]

Car is coming along great. Is that a conversion kit for a Portaband? That could come in handy.

Any plans for the Kjet parts? I have a 82 242 getting delivered tomorrow that hasn't ran in a few years.

[rms]

Originally Posted by 3wagons

Car is coming along great. Is that a conversion kit for a Portaband? That could come in handy.

Any plans for the Kjet parts? I have a 82 242 getting delivered tomorrow that hasn't ran in a few years.

Thanks! Yes, it’s a small table that holds my Milwaukee saw, made by Swag Offroad.

I have zero plans for the K-jet stuff. Message me if you want anything off it.

[rms]

I started on the rust repair, and fortunately it's just this one area. Cut out the rust, made a patch for the flat part and pinch weld. Then had to fab a piece for the swoop in the rear side window. Next, weld it in and finish it up.

[oldschoolvolvo]

nice project. this is a goal of mine as well...whiteblock + 240

[Vol242vo]

Nice metal work. That looks great!

[rms]

Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo

nice project. this is a goal of mine as well...whiteblock + 240

Originally Posted by Vol242vo

Nice metal work. That looks great!

Thanks guys!

[brickcupra]

Hey Im doing the locker swap as well. Also I notice the bearing caps loose in my diff too. I scraped, sanded , polished and naval gel the housing till it came out pretty decent. Also I cleaned and sealed the sensor hole and painted the cover silver.Im running gps controlled speedo. Nice job
DZ

[RockSteady9413]

I'm new here but I stumbled across something on YouTube the other day that may be of help.

I'm looking at swapping a b5234t into an E30 and was concerned about wiring as well. This guy may have a solution for us both.

https://hellmooseperformance.com/mag...alone-ecu.html

Not cheap in the slightest but his car is an animal he appears to be worth his salt. Maybe give him a call.

[rms]

Originally Posted by RockSteady9413

I'm new here but I stumbled across something on YouTube the other day that may be of help.

I'm looking at swapping a b5234t into an E30 and was concerned about wiring as well. This guy may have a solution for us both.

https://hellmooseperformance.com/mag...alone-ecu.html

Not cheap in the slightest but his car is an animal he appears to be worth his salt. Maybe give him a call.

Thanks for that link, I wasn’t aware of it. While I’m going with the stock computer for now, that would be an awesome option if I decide to modify or turbo the motor. The factory wiring won’t be fun, but as others have said, it’s pretty do-able. Thanks!

[matt b]

Nice work cleaning up the rust. A little filler to smooth it out and it will look perfect. Does the car need a re-spray or can you get away with just painting and blending that one small spot ?

[rms]

Originally Posted by matt b

Nice work cleaning up the rust. A little filler to smooth it out and it will look perfect. Does the car need a re-spray or can you get away with just painting and blending that one small spot ?

Thanks. No repaint, I’ll just blend in that one spot. The rest of the paint is fine, has a nice patina to it. I really favor original paint cars, even if it shows wear...or character.

[rms]

Finally pulled the engine and trans from the donor 960, and sent that car to it's final resting place. Parting it out paid for the car, so essentially the drivetrain was free.

[rms]

Been quite a while since an update, or really any work on the car. I was finally able to move it indoors and get back working on it. I now have the rear suspension under it, and have started on the front. Feels good to be working on it again.

[matt b]

Get this baby up and running again already! Looks good, and I honestly never thought I'd say that about a beige car.

[rms]

Originally Posted by matt b

Get this baby up and running again already! Looks good, and I honestly never thought I'd say that about a beige car.

Thanks! Beige is definitely last on my favorites list too, but something about the original paint and patina that make this car an exception.