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Old 04-30-2020, 05:54 PM   #26
Tfrasca
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Tfrasca - does this rhyme with your fuel system? Thoughts, comments, problems?
This looks like version one of my fuel system. I put a gravity fed OEM 240 turbo pump in that fuel pump cradle. It didn't work well.

Now I have a Bosch 044 inside a surge tank in the trunk, fed by a Facet low pressure pump in that same cradle. It fixed the issues with the old setup (BAD fuel starvation in corners, and just running out of fuel pressure at high boost/rpm). But it's not perfect. The surge tank gets almost too hot to touch, which hasn't been a problem, but I sure don't like it.

Rev 3.0 will probably be a custom or modified stock tank that fits the Bosch 044 inside. The only reason the fuel system is tricky on these cars is because there's no in-tank pump. 240 people have it all figured out.
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Old 04-30-2020, 07:29 PM   #27
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That's really good information - thanks. Once this is (re)running I hope it's fun enough that it's a race between me blowing up the M41 (or the spare), the fuel system, or swapping out the narrow rods.

One symptom during the last round was a bad throttle bog and when that cleared it was an easy pull to redline. I had the injectors flow tested a few years ago and discovered one was leaking pretty bad. My (hopeful) suspicion is I was fouling a plug and then once that cleaned off it'd go. That said, I always wondered if I was asking too much of the gravity feed.
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Old 05-02-2020, 01:35 AM   #28
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What radiator is that? Where did you get it? And is there any chance you've got photos of how you had to adapt the car to get it to sit where you have it?
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Old 05-02-2020, 04:11 PM   #29
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Cool car. Do you have a close up of the fuel rail mounts and injectors? They look nice and very close to(or in?) the flange!
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Old 05-04-2020, 01:12 PM   #30
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What radiator is that? Where did you get it? And is there any chance you've got photos of how you had to adapt the car to get it to sit where you have it?
My shopping list:
Griffin Aluminum Drag Race Radiators 2-25185-X
Dorman 926-278 Radiator Mount Bushing



This shows the foot of the radiator with the bushing. This mounts on a plate screwed onto some sheetmetal and frame rail (via rivnut) with a pin pointing upwards to locate the bottom.



On the top are two little brackets that go from bosses on the the radiator to the original upper radiator mounts. These are galvanically isolated on the radiator side with some flange washers.

Last edited by joel142; 05-05-2020 at 12:19 PM..
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Old 05-04-2020, 01:35 PM   #31
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My shopping list:
Griffin Aluminum Drag Race Radiators 2-25185-X
Dorman 926-278 Radiator Mount Bushing



This shows the foot of the radiator with the bushing. This mounts on a plate screwed onto some sheetmetal and frame rail (via rivnut) with a pin pointing upwards to locate the bottom.

On the top are two little brackets that go from bosses on the the radiator to the original upper radiator mounts. These are galvanically isolated on the radiator side with some flange washers.
This is the most elegant solution to an improved radiator I've seen yet! Kudos!
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Old 05-04-2020, 01:50 PM   #32
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This is the most elegant solution to an improved radiator I've seen yet! Kudos!
Thanks. If I could weld aluminum it would be even better to weld the pin onto the bottom of the foot, flip the rubber bushing upside down, and drop the bushing into the frame rail (it's a 3/4" hole as I recall). That would save you building a part and reduce the stack. Any way to make things smaller in a 140 bay makes things better.
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Old 05-04-2020, 02:09 PM   #33
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I think this was in a different thread but this shows all the coolers mounted up. They each have about 0.25" of space between them. When planning the stack up I put them all together with thin plywood between them and two big bar clamps holding it together. I don't think I could get it any farther forward. The lower right ear of the oil cooler actually interferes slightly with the headlight trim so trimming that is on the to-do list.
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Old 05-04-2020, 05:41 PM   #34
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Looking at the photos (and reading the descriptions again) I was wondering what your plan was for when you have to change the accessory belts.

It looks (emphasis on looks... might not actually be) like your oil lines go through that opening between the pulleys, but captures the belts once they're attached to the remote filter housing.
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Old 05-04-2020, 08:26 PM   #35
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Looking at the photos (and reading the descriptions again) I was wondering what your plan was for when you have to change the accessory belts.

It looks (emphasis on looks... might not actually be) like your oil lines go through that opening between the pulleys, but captures the belts once they're attached to the remote filter housing.
The belts go between the belts and the sway bar. The two holes on the bottom of the alternator bracket hold cap headed screws that direct the oil lines in parallel to the bottom of the alternator and below the belts. I can grab a quick pick of the alternator bracket with the oil lines and alternator installed. It doesn't miss by much, but, it's just below the pulley so belt expansion should be minimal.

If past performance is any indicator of future results I can expect to change the belts and oil filter once a decade.

Last edited by joel142; 05-04-2020 at 08:42 PM..
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Old 05-05-2020, 12:29 PM   #36
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Cool car. Do you have a close up of the fuel rail mounts and injectors? They look nice and very close to(or in?) the flange!
Next time the manifold is off I'll take some pictures. It's so tight because this is a 405 head using the K-jet holes. I had a friend turn the ID on the K-jet holders down to take the Bosch injector o-rings. The injector nozzles sit just on at the edge of the k-jet holder.

The fuel rail itself is affixed to a couple little brackets that are attached to the head using the k-jet bracket screws. Those are really simple: a steel tab behind the rail, a bit of 1/4" round stock, and another tab screwed onto the head. Seems nice and firm.
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Old 05-06-2020, 01:09 PM   #37
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I'm getting geared up to do the exhaust. This shows the Yother flange and a 16* cut that unwinds the angle and places the outlet perpendicular to the ground. The intent is to do this in 3" mild steel.

I'm still on the learning/exploration track with welding (120V setup, gas shielded, 0.030" wire) - does any one have any tips/tricks/advice on this? One thought I had was to use the rotary table on the mill to cut a relief (probably around 0.050") for the pipe to drop into the flange. I'm at least the downpipe away from final welding it up, but, if there are useful things to do in anticipation I'm all ears.
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Old 05-06-2020, 02:11 PM   #38
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I'm getting geared up to do the exhaust. This shows the Yother flange and a 16* cut that unwinds the angle and places the outlet perpendicular to the ground. The intent is to do this in 3" mild steel.

I'm still on the learning/exploration track with welding (120V setup, gas shielded, 0.030" wire) - does any one have any tips/tricks/advice on this? One thought I had was to use the rotary table on the mill to cut a relief (probably around 0.050") for the pipe to drop into the flange. I'm at least the downpipe away from final welding it up, but, if there are useful things to do in anticipation I'm all ears.
Tight joints, lots of tacks (I like 1" apart) , skip in between joints, good gas coverage, clean metal.

Mig with a 120v unit should be fine for exhaust tubing. The reason to skip between joints, and have so many tacks is to alleviate shifting from welding. Use only enough heat/amps/wirefeed rate to get and maintain the puddle. Run it an inch or so, move to a cool joint and let your last weld cool.
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Old 05-06-2020, 04:35 PM   #39
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Next time the manifold is off I'll take some pictures. It's so tight because this is a 405 head using the K-jet holes. I had a friend turn the ID on the K-jet holders down to take the Bosch injector o-rings. The injector nozzles sit just on at the edge of the k-jet holder.

The fuel rail itself is affixed to a couple little brackets that are attached to the head using the k-jet bracket screws. Those are really simple: a steel tab behind the rail, a bit of 1/4" round stock, and another tab screwed onto the head. Seems nice and firm.
Ah, sweet. It seems like an ideal setup assuming the newer injectors don't mind being in the head with the associated heat.
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Old 05-06-2020, 04:48 PM   #40
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Ah, sweet. It seems like an ideal setup assuming the newer injectors don't mind being in the head with the associated heat.
For what it's worth, I had EFI injectors in a K-jet head with no issues.
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Old 05-06-2020, 05:49 PM   #41
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For what it's worth, I had EFI injectors in a K-jet head with no issues.
I imagine it'll be okay. The body is glass re-inforced plastic so insulated and they should be cooled by a continuous flow of fuel. With the NiW rail getting to the connectors is just possible.
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Old 05-07-2020, 01:29 AM   #42
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Did you make the brackets that secure the puller fan?

[I'm very much trying to implement your cooling setup in my car if you haven't guessed by now ;) ]
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Old 05-07-2020, 11:59 AM   #43
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Did you make the brackets that secure the puller fan?

[I'm very much trying to implement your cooling setup in my car if you haven't guessed by now ;) ]
The brackets are Be Cool Electric Fan Module Mounting Brackets 72054
The fan is SPAL VA13-AP70/LL-63A * 13"C/12V

I'd forgotten all the gold plating Be Cool puts on those brackets..they do work really well.

Last edited by joel142; 05-07-2020 at 12:07 PM..
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Old 05-07-2020, 01:26 PM   #44
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Back when I bought the car the control cable to the thermostat was broken so I need to stop and reach under the dash to adjust the heat. When I took the B20 out it swung sideways, hit the firewall mounted thermostat, and cracked it. Heating has always been problematic with this car and bypassed for most of the years I've owned it.

I decided to better seal the back of the water pump and use this as the turbo coolant return. This is a block off plate with an -4 ORB fitting that holds the square o-ring of the coolant transfer pipe. A 3/4" NPT to -4 adapter is in the cylinder head outlet that originally fed the heater core and now feeds the turbo.






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Old 05-15-2020, 06:46 PM   #45
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Got the radiator in! I was somewhat surprised at how small it really is. And then I was doubly surprised when I realized I forgot to order a radiator cap.

Last edited by oemoilleaks; 05-16-2020 at 09:32 AM..
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Old 05-16-2020, 12:47 PM   #46
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A bit more progress on the intake side of the engine.



The bracket that holds the air filter and AMM need a little triangulation and shaping but it's coming along. After all the custom tubes and stuff are done the wiring needs a serious clean...... Holding the filter was a bit of a puzzle. In any orientation where I could use the original bolts on the AMM I couldn't plug it in or it would occupy the same space as the charge pipe. The connector between the turbo and AMM will eventually feature the PCV connection.
Based on my 6 month experience of running a cone filter DIRECTLY against the AMM, I wouldn't recommend it. I saw some crazy AFR swings which I think were attributed to the turbulence of the air as it passed the AMM instrument. All the factory installs I have viewed which use the BOSCH AMM have at least 1 to 3 diameters of straight pipe / long sweeping 90* in front of the AMM. It looks like you have the space, so you could move the AMM toward your turbo inlet. Consider well.....

Is that redblock mounted vertical? Or is that the pics playing tricks on my eyes?

I love the 142..... will keep following your progress.
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:33 PM   #47
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Got the radiator in! I was somewhat surprised at how small it really is. And then I was doubly surprised when I realized I forgot to order a radiator cap.
At one point I put it up against the original radiator and it is a good bit shorter. I rationalized that by telling myself the lower portion is blocked by the front cross member and (at least in my case originally) filled with leaves and debris. I wonder if Volvo did that to get the outlet lower, but, then looking at pictures of B20F's on google, I'm reminded the water pump has that downward extension. Tfrasca's solution of cutting that cross member out and re-welding for a forward but deeper radiator looks attractive. I feel I'm at least 3 iterations behind him.

I just wrapped up tacking together a turbo back 3" exhaust. I still need to get hangers in and cut the downpipe at the transmission for a flange, but, it's getting closer. I'm taking a break from that and returning to the intake side.

I know, it's odd those caps come separate...
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:59 PM   #48
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Based on my 6 month experience of running a cone filter DIRECTLY against the AMM, I wouldn't recommend it. I saw some crazy AFR swings which I think were attributed to the turbulence of the air as it passed the AMM instrument. All the factory installs I have viewed which use the BOSCH AMM have at least 1 to 3 diameters of straight pipe / long sweeping 90* in front of the AMM. It looks like you have the space, so you could move the AMM toward your turbo inlet. Consider well.....

Is that redblock mounted vertical? Or is that the pics playing tricks on my eyes?

I love the 142..... will keep following your progress.
That's good advice on the AMM. The filter has a little snout/tube built into it that's about 1 diameter long. I can definitely keep moving the AMM towards the turbo until I run out of space to put the vacuum port for the breather system and if I keep the filter in the corner that might get me another 2 diameters. I could also completely change the aspect ratio and use something similar to this

I'm reusing the filter from v1.0 and it was attached to the AMM in the same way with both located in a worse spot. In that system it was over by the hood hinge for maximum hot air intake. The engine ran okay with the occasional tip in stumble. I now know one injector was badly leaking, but, it could have been compounded by this or fuel flow. While not a final answer if things are behaving weirdly and the hood is still off I can add a long pipe up in that corner and put the filter on that. If it works better then I can figure something out.

And, yes, the engine is mounted vertical. I'm using the original M41 transmission (for now). Amusingly, the clutch cover is the transition from imperial to metric fasteners.
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Old 05-21-2020, 12:02 PM   #49
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Based on my 6 month experience of running a cone filter DIRECTLY against the AMM, I wouldn't recommend it. I saw some crazy AFR swings which I think were attributed to the turbulence of the air as it passed the AMM instrument. All the factory installs I have viewed which use the BOSCH AMM have at least 1 to 3 diameters of straight pipe / long sweeping 90* in front of the AMM. It looks like you have the space, so you could move the AMM toward your turbo inlet. Consider well.....
Did a little playing with the layout and cardboard last night. If I stack things tightly and go with the alternative filter I can get a small gap for crankcase vacuum and put the AMM about 2.5 diameters from the filter opening. This filter also has a bigger "plate" so there's an inherent 90* turn in the air.

Looks like the radiator overflow can is going to end up on the firewall as that's the last spot of space I have. If I end up needing a crankcase catch can maybe that bracket can do double duty. Now I'll need to figure out where I can put the rivnuts...
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Old 05-23-2020, 03:09 AM   #50
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Figured you'd like to have these... From the 2008 XXX meet. I was driving the blue flathooded silver 245 Turbo back then.




I was the car between Slobodan's yellow 245 Diesel and the 242GT owned by dirt-dogg Sean, as seen here, looking from where you had your 142 parked.
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