home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-01-2020, 08:45 PM   #26
Estateman
K-Jet or Bust
 
Estateman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Dallas, TX
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by white855T View Post
Steel diff covers use a gasket. It's recommend to use a Volvo gasket. Aluminum cover uses a sealant. I've personally used the green rtv and it works well. No leaks to report.
Which years did the steel cover come on? I ordered a rubber looking diff gasket genuine Volvo.
__________________
88 245 - M46 3.73 Gears
>>FEEDBACK<<
Estateman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2020, 09:32 PM   #27
white855T
Board Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Dallas,TX
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Estateman View Post
Which years did the steel cover come on? I ordered a rubber looking diff gasket genuine Volvo.
Everything up to 91 for 240 uses a steel cover. 92-93 240s are the only years that had the aluminum cover.
white855T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2020, 11:04 AM   #28
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default


__________________
1991 244 LH2.4 M46 341k miles

Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:08 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2020, 02:21 PM   #29
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

I got a thing. i want to make the exhaust less obnoxious


the volvo assumed shadetree hackery position


so there is no way to just clamp on the muffler without it hitting something on my current exhaust. I ended up just pulling the whole back side of the exhaust to get some better measurements. screw working on wet gravel.


I want to put it here, where the original resonator should have went. but it will definately needs to be welded and the hangers replaced. No way the clamps would seal on the bends.


I put it on the end just to see what it'd sound like. it is definately better but i bet it'll sound better/quieter in the res spot.

Sorry for no rev video. didn't want to piss off my neighbors!

Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:09 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2020, 06:13 PM   #30
IansPlatinum
Board Member
 
IansPlatinum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Default

Quote:

Sorry for no rev video. didn't want to piss off my neighbors!


Just drive it like that!

But in all seriousness, that still sounds too loud even with the resonator. I'd be willing to bet your muffler is wasted. I didn't realize they could degrade internally until I took my old one off and looked inside. They have steel baffles inside that corrode away and eventually stop producing the acoustic effects that they were engineered to produce.

My car has no resonator and a new stock muffler. It is quieter than what I heard on your video... the only time I notice my car's exhaust it on the highway, when I hit the resonance around 2.5-2.7K RPM. Even then, it's not that loud, just could be quieter, ya know?
__________________
'96 854 Platinum - "Trusty"
'92 245 - "Boat"
'71 145 - "Rusty"
'93 Land Cruiser - "Ruby"
'01 Cherokee - "Janice"
IansPlatinum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2020, 10:09 PM   #31
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by IansPlatinum View Post
But in all seriousness, that still sounds too loud even with the resonator. I'd be willing to bet your muffler is wasted. I didn't realize they could degrade internally until I took my old one off and looked inside. They have steel baffles inside that corrode away and eventually stop producing the acoustic effects that they were engineered to produce.

My car has no resonator and a new stock muffler. It is quieter than what I heard on your video... the only time I notice my car's exhaust it on the highway, when I hit the resonance around 2.5-2.7K RPM. Even then, it's not that loud, just could be quieter, ya know?
Itís not the stock muffler, itís a mangaflow 18x6x6 2.5Ē straight thru glass pack haha. nothing else in the exhaust. It doesnít sound horrible but it hits maximum fart cannon like you mention from 2800-3100 rpm. Sounded nice when a turbo was muffling the tractor noise but now that itís NA and the glass pack is getting worn out itís pretty obnoxious!!
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2020, 02:40 PM   #32
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

I got some new tires. Continental Extremecontact DWS06 high berformance all season. I'm going to try to break them in before going for some skids but braking feels 8.7 times better than the bald 14" winters I was using before. I did not realize how low I set the car as the old wheels were so much smaller. Before getting a real alignment I may bring it back up just a little.

Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:09 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2020, 08:07 PM   #33
Grendel
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: New England
Default

Sealed that rear differential yet?

If not:

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52416_100.htm

I used them on mostly 4wds... but it's for a Dana 30 and doesn't care what cover you have.
Grendel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2020, 09:52 AM   #34
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grendel View Post
Sealed that rear differential yet?

If not:

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52416_100.htm

I used them on mostly 4wds... but it's for a Dana 30 and doesn't care what cover you have.
I have seen and thought about that gasket. What worries me is the difference in distance from the VR sensor in the diff to the internal tone ring with a thicker gasket like that installed. When I first pulled the cover to do the locker, it was a rtv chemical gasket only, no paper.

I ordered a paper gasket a couple weeks ago and am going to try that out first. I was also thinking about getting a large piece of sandpaper and a flat surface to re-finish the sealing surface of the cover.

I got a stock panhard par and put new poly bushings into it, so I will be pulling the cover again while the bar goes in in the coming weeks.

Last edited by esmth; 08-17-2020 at 05:44 PM..
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2020, 05:38 PM   #35
Wilford Brimley
Is posting from the grave
 
Wilford Brimley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Marysville, wa
Default

Wilford Brimley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2020, 05:59 PM   #36
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilford Brimley View Post
epic image

Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:09 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2020, 07:00 PM   #37
redblockpowered
cone dodging dilettante
 
redblockpowered's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: In bed, probably
Default

How far does it go? Can we get the idle down to 0db?
__________________
1993 944 B230FT/M90 thread here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=345277
2x 1991 245 B230F/M47 (LeMons car, street car)
I sell chips for LH 2.4!
redblockpowered is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2020, 10:42 AM   #38
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by redblockpowered View Post
How far does it go? Can we get the idle down to 0db?
[IMG]https://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/news/**********-lawn-mower-with-huge-muffler-shows-how-ricers-fail-88589_1.jpg[/IMG]

edit, LOL ********** is censored hahahah


Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:09 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2020, 03:19 PM   #39
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Replacing the panhard bar to stock with poly and this aluminum bushing siezed to the mount. It was hell to get loose. Took a trusty hack saw. Stock panhard with poly is now installed, but got no pictures of that.



While I was in there, I wanted to attempt to re seal the diff again. The last time I went overboard with the green RTV and the sucker was GLUED to the housing. I bent it pretty bad trying to pry it off. Ended up using a vicegrips and sandpaper to get it flat again.


While fixing the cover I found out why it kept leaking... there are 3 tiny pinholes. I have no idea why I didn't notice them before. Cover was never even that rusty.

Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:10 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2020, 06:48 PM   #40
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Two days after the diff re-seal (and rtv applied to the pinholes) without a new drip on my superfund site of a parking spot!

I didn't end up using the paper gasket I ordered, though I obtained an aluminum cover for when it inevitably starts leaking again
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2020, 06:56 PM   #41
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Needed to take care of the crank housing paper gasket leak that has been bugging me for more than a year. Look at that grit build up


Removed and cleaned up


cleanest part of the car by far


glamor shot


I also replaced both the cam seals and the valve cover gasket. Hopefully all of the leaks are taken care of for now

Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:10 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2020, 08:21 PM   #42
fatcatbestcat
Professional Hack
 
fatcatbestcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Toronto, ON (Canada)
Default

Nothing is more satisfying than fixing leaks and replacing gaskets.
__________________
Doing the wrong thing the right way.

Various Pushrod Parts For Sale: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=358700

Quote:
Originally Posted by redblockpowered View Post
Will you do $14.99 shipped?
Quote:
Originally Posted by IansPlatinum View Post
please no more prying things with screwdrivers and bashing things with hammers!
fatcatbestcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2020, 01:45 PM   #43
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
Nothing is more satisfying than fixing leaks and replacing gaskets.
unfortunately it is still leaking from somewhere. Albeit much slowly than it was before. Maybe one half drop hangs off the bottom bellhousing bolt after every drive. It isn't enough to make it to the pavement though, at least. It might be a RMS but I replaced that with a volvo seal when I did the clutch/flywheel job 18 or 20 months ago.
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2020, 02:03 PM   #44
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

The past few days I have been noticing a rare-but-getting-more-common hiccup that the engine would do when hot and driving around. I didn't notice, but the dash lights were flickering dimly when it hiccupped. I ignored it like usual so it came back to bite me last night. At 1am, the dash lit up like what happens when the alt/regulator fails. I ended up making it home though, on battery power which dipped below 11.5v. I went to bed and delt with it this morning.

At first, I noticed the ground strap from alternator case to the block was not tightened down, at all. It was my fault, I must have forgotten to tighten the bolt when I did the front crank housing seals. I thought that was it so I started driving to work. 13.7v was at the cigarette lighter socket. Half way to work, it dropped back down to 11.7v so I turned around. Revving the engine did not help and all the dash lights lit up again. I pulled the regulator and saw this:


I had installed this regulator as a "good used" one from my spare alternator ~2 months or so ago and it had decent length on the brushes so the commutator on the alt must be sloppy and eating the brushes.

Could the loose ground have any effect on this? Could that cause the brushes to get chewed out so fast?


A bought the dave adjustable regulator a bit back to install but never got around to it. It went in now.


13.75v and it got me to work with no voltage drops. fug.

Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:11 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2020, 08:36 AM   #45
Grendel
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: New England
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by esmth View Post
I have seen and thought about that gasket. What worries me is the difference in distance from the VR sensor in the diff to the internal tone ring with a thicker gasket like that installed. When I first pulled the cover to do the locker, it was a rtv chemical gasket only, no paper.

I ordered a paper gasket a couple weeks ago and am going to try that out first. I was also thinking about getting a large piece of sandpaper and a flat surface to re-finish the sealing surface of the cover.

I got a stock panhard par and put new poly bushings into it, so I will be pulling the cover again while the bar goes in in the coming weeks.
It won't effect the VR sensor.

Milling the mating surfaces is a great idea, too. I do that every time.
Grendel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2020, 09:15 AM   #46
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

this alternator thing is not over. I didn't notice because it was daytime, but all the lights were flickering heavily. worse than i've ever seen before. AC leakage is ~800mv which sounds bad. So I swapped that 55amp alternator in, along with the external regulator/brush thing.
Besides the alt being underpowered for the car, it worked fine. I noticed a heli coil in it that looked shoddily installed, and it came from a "driving" car so it was probably good right?




Went on a weekend trip to a friends house and half way there the alternator stopped charging. The helicoil on the alt fell out and the brushes were no longer brushing the brushee. Found a self-tapper that fit and drove that sucker in and fixed it.

I found a 100 amp denso in a junkyard so that's going to go in next after i refresh the brushes.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Grendel View Post
It won't effect the VR sensor.

Milling the mating surfaces is a great idea, too. I do that every time.
The diff cover ended up having pinholes in it got a good used aluminum cover that will be installed next time it leaks. (rtv'd the holes )

Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:11 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2020, 12:17 PM   #47
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

On the alternator front, I ordered these to refresh the denso.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/272824194137
https://www.ebay.com/itm/301222347380

I found a 1995 940 in a junkyard so I took the engine.


It's got what counts


I needed to do a fuel filter as I had no idea how old the one on my car is. I've never changed it and I have driven the car almost 100k miles. Last time I attemped, I snapped the nylon line, which was then patched with some clamps and 5/16" j30r9 line. The tank also had a habit of leaking occassionally when full. I assumed it was the filler neck seal. Here is the dropped tank


Some pretty cancerous rust. There was a bunch of road build up all over the top.


I believe this was the hole that was causing the leaking. There were multiple other holes. Flipping the tank upside down, it pee'd out of a couple spots.



JB welded the worse of the holes. But I ended up ordering a new aftermarket tank. Hope it's not too terrible quality.

Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:12 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2020, 11:18 AM   #48
fatcatbestcat
Professional Hack
 
fatcatbestcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Toronto, ON (Canada)
Default

Squirter block, huh?

Do I see boost in your future?
fatcatbestcat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2020, 11:34 AM   #49
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
Squirter block, huh?

Do I see boost in your future?
Possibly in the far future but unlikely again on this car. I'm in this squirty-block for the negative-deck-piston-cooling-placebo NA gainz
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2020, 09:19 AM   #50
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Got the tank in. It was the $168 one from rock auto, spectra premium brand. It does have a circular baffle around the pickup, like the OE tank. It feels about as solid as the tank that came out, though it weighs a bit less due to no undercoating. It is pained with some sort of paint, we will see how it holds up to Massachusetts salt marsh climate.


When trying to reinstall the old tank with the filler neck in the car, I found that the seal/clamp assembly was pretty close to impossible to get the screw to start threading into the clamp. I ended up just pulling the filler neck tube off the car. Then, installing it on the new tank off the car, it still took 25 minutes of fiddling to get the clamp to secure the seal and filler neck to the tank. I left it loose enough where I could spin it to finagle the tank and neck up into the car with the floor jack on some wood. Then it was just bolting the tank up, tightening the neck clamp, and installing the seal/guard thing in the filler hatch.



While doing this, I also converted to a single in-tank dw200 pump. I put two gallons of gas in and jumped the relay and let it run for a couple minutes to run the gas through the new pump, filter, and line. It is much quieter than the stock pump paired with the ipd upgrade in-tank pump. Still can just barely hear it prime though.

I also recieved my denso alternator refresh parts. The alternator will be installed this weekend.


Last edited by esmth; 01-19-2021 at 12:12 PM.. Reason: https
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:51 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.