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Old 10-24-2020, 07:37 PM   #51
Cromlech
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Coming along nicely!
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Old 11-02-2020, 11:18 AM   #52
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***There will be a video at the end of this post!***

PTP Turbo blanket



Downpipe just to get the car started. It'll eventually be wrapped in PTP lava wrap. This will lead to a full 3" exhaust.







Finished up all of the front end wiring...

Good quality and bright LEDs for the headlights









I made this plate to hold the relays for the headlights and driving lights and front power distribution.



It hangs off the 2 bolts that hold the Miata wiper fluid reservoir.







Thiccboi radiator from Speedway









Made a bracket for the coolant tank w/ a fluid sight and a cover/upper bracket for the rad







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Old 11-02-2020, 11:21 AM   #53
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Here's your gift for being so patient!

First Start!
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Old 11-02-2020, 12:05 PM   #54
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Here's your gift for being so patient!

First Start!

Congrats, that sounds incredible. Whats next?
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Old 11-02-2020, 12:21 PM   #55
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Congrats, that sounds incredible. Whats next?
Thanks!

Finish the cage, mount the seats, start finishing the wiring (audio, interior fuse box, accessories - until my eyes bleed), and the shaft for electric power steering.
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Old 11-02-2020, 12:39 PM   #56
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Thanks!

Finish the cage, mount the seats, start finishing the wiring (audio, interior fuse box, accessories - until my eyes bleed), and the shaft for electric power steering.
Nice, excited to see the final product.

Is the 2.3 a viable swap for the masses? This and the Ecotec from GM seem like good options for the Volvo community
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Old 11-02-2020, 03:21 PM   #57
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I think so, but the motor is pretty tall. The motor can be had from all sorts of cars, obviously the mustang is the only RWD one and the FPP wiring kit made the electronics fairly simple.
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Old 11-02-2020, 04:41 PM   #58
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I'm curious how the NPR intercooler will work with the FPP tune. The FPP tune on the 2.0 Ecoboost was a little zesty and it would go into limp mode from the charge temps being too high. I had to send the ECU back to Ford a few times to get a tune that worked well for racing, there's a few 2L engines with holes in lots of pistons and cylinders sitting in the corner of a friends barn. The initial tune was wayyyy too aggressive with boost and timing, and it pretty much ignored the knock sensor(?!?!?!). This was an issue they were starting to see in a few off road buggies/trucks that were using the 2.0L as well. Now SCT and a few others offer tuning kits for the the ecoboost swaps, but back in 2016 it was the dark ages... no one could tune one using the FPP ECU.

All this to say, keep an eye on things.
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Old 11-02-2020, 06:35 PM   #59
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I'm curious how the NPR intercooler will work with the FPP tune. The FPP tune on the 2.0 Ecoboost was a little zesty and it would go into limp mode from the charge temps being too high. I had to send the ECU back to Ford a few times to get a tune that worked well for racing, there's a few 2L engines with holes in lots of pistons and cylinders sitting in the corner of a friends barn. The initial tune was wayyyy too aggressive with boost and timing, and it pretty much ignored the knock sensor(?!?!?!). This was an issue they were starting to see in a few off road buggies/trucks that were using the 2.0L as well. Now SCT and a few others offer tuning kits for the the ecoboost swaps, but back in 2016 it was the dark ages... no one could tune one using the FPP ECU.

All this to say, keep an eye on things.
HPTuners support its now, iirc. That would probably be the best way to go.
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Old 11-03-2020, 01:04 AM   #60
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All this to say, keep an eye on things.
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HPTuners support its now, iirc. That would probably be the best way to go.
Thanks for the info! I'm going HP tuners, so hopefully I'll be taken care of.
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Old 11-03-2020, 10:59 AM   #61
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That was quick! This makes me want to want to scrap my engine swap and steal the 2.0 from my wife's Escape...
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Old 11-03-2020, 02:45 PM   #62
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That was quick! This makes me want to want to scrap my engine swap and steal the 2.0 from my wife's Escape...
Lol it's not that quick. I wanted to make sure I had a running car before telling anyone about it, but I've been working on it since late November. On the free weekends and evenings. Covid did slow things down a lot.
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Old 11-03-2020, 03:02 PM   #63
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That was quick! This makes me want to want to scrap my engine swap and steal the 2.0 from my wife's Escape...
Do it. Especially if you can fit the engine in (length and height). The 2L with the controls pack drives super well (amazing DBW throttle feel), and still returns near OEM fuel economy.
With the 2L, you can swap on the 2.3 intake, oil pan, and upper water pipe. Basically making all the accessories be RWD oriented for a few hundred dollars.

There's also a ford t5 adapter kit, or you can use the mustang trans/flywheel/clutch/starter.
Or you can use a NC miata trans/clutch/flywheel/starter and pray it holds together (it won't btw...), but it's really easy to make it work.
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Old 11-03-2020, 03:28 PM   #64
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That was quick! This makes me want to want to scrap my engine swap and steal the 2.0 from my wife's Escape...
2.0T is a little shorter (difference between the 2.0, 2.3, and 2.5 is all in deck height + stroke), but Ford stopped making the "control pack" for it due to lack of interest / to focus (pun intended?) on the 2.3T kit. I'm not sure if the 2.3T control pack would directly work, but it would definitely need to be retuned, for whatever that's worth. Maybe someone dumped the 2.0T pack's ECU's tune and you can just directly load it? Not really a lot of good information out there on oddball configurations, kinda just have to dive in.
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Old 11-03-2020, 05:47 PM   #65
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Do it. Especially if you can fit the engine in (length and height). The 2L with the controls pack drives super well (amazing DBW throttle feel), and still returns near OEM fuel economy.
With the 2L, you can swap on the 2.3 intake, oil pan, and upper water pipe. Basically making all the accessories be RWD oriented for a few hundred dollars.

There's also a ford t5 adapter kit, or you can use the mustang trans/flywheel/clutch/starter.
Or you can use a NC miata trans/clutch/flywheel/starter and pray it holds together (it won't btw...), but it's really easy to make it work.
You could just use the MT-82...
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Old 11-03-2020, 07:35 PM   #66
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You could just use the MT-82...
That's too logical for TB, and you know this!
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Old 11-03-2020, 09:46 PM   #67
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That's too logical for TB, and you know this!
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Old 11-04-2020, 10:50 PM   #68
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Dang dude. Nice work getting it running that quick! Sounds good!
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Old 11-05-2020, 09:47 PM   #69
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****in whoa dude
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Old 11-06-2020, 09:39 PM   #70
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Dang dude. Nice work getting it running that quick! Sounds good!
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****in whoa dude
Thanks guys!
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Old 11-16-2020, 12:43 PM   #71
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Default Working on the cage

My main focus was to add safety, but be as unobtrusive as possible as I'm 6'5" 300lbs and this isn't a "full race" build.





Plates added for front posts and main hoop





Rear section







The dash structure still fits!





Up next is the seat mounting and making the harness and door bars to finish the cage.
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Old 12-03-2020, 12:12 AM   #72
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Interesting, Great work.

I've given thought to doing something similar around the fuel sender area. I still might, just have a better idea of what it will look like now...
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:03 PM   #73
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I've seen a few cages done like this and wondered why - specifically where the tubes land on the rear wheel tubs.

In a car with strut tops near there it would make sense, but in 240s the dampers and springs mount on the chassis rail inboard of the wheel tub.

Would it not be stronger / give more rigidity to the car to run the cage through the rear firewall and land it in between the spring and damper mounts?

I'm not criticising, I'm just hoping to learn something!
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Old 12-03-2020, 07:51 PM   #74
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I've seen a few cages done like this and wondered why - specifically where the tubes land on the rear wheel tubs.

In a car with strut tops near there it would make sense, but in 240s the dampers and springs mount on the chassis rail inboard of the wheel tub.

Would it not be stronger / give more rigidity to the car to run the cage through the rear firewall and land it in between the spring and damper mounts?

I'm not criticising, I'm just hoping to learn something!
You are 100% correct. Running the downtubes to the rear wheel wells isn't the best idea on a 240. Its a lot better to go through the rear firewall and down to the frame rails where the shock/spring are mounted.
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Old 12-04-2020, 10:48 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by dmacl View Post
I've seen a few cages done like this and wondered why - specifically where the tubes land on the rear wheel tubs.

In a car with strut tops near there it would make sense, but in 240s the dampers and springs mount on the chassis rail inboard of the wheel tub.

Would it not be stronger / give more rigidity to the car to run the cage through the rear firewall and land it in between the spring and damper mounts?

I'm not criticising, I'm just hoping to learn something!
Its much better to run it to the frame rail like you are saying... its easier to run it to the wheel wells so that where people go.
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