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#76 |
Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Cleveland, OH
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![]() So cool!
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Daily: '91 245, B230F/M46 P-type, '93 Dana 30 '88 744, Twin Turbo LS1/T56, Grizzly locked Dana 30. |
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#77 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: No Pants Island
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![]() What is this car going to be used for? (besides dropping panties, obvs.)
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#78 |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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![]() Thanks!
Road course, Auto-X, and random flashlight drags. Kinda tooling around in something unique.
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84 242 TIC |
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#79 | |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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Cage is finished! (minus painting) ![]() ![]() ![]() The seat mounting was moved back and lowered so I could fit the taller seats and my tall body comfortably. ![]() ![]() The seat are actually the same height when fully installed. ![]() ![]() Door bars are a little over the bolsters to protect the seats from wear, but still fit under the arm rests ![]() ![]() ![]() I can still get the extinguisher out with one hand ![]() Pause for a fashion shoot... ![]() Last edited by jstblz; 12-24-2020 at 01:35 PM.. |
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#80 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cornholio, OR
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![]() ![]() Total loss of side impact protection
__________________
I don't know who I am when I am somebody else. |
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#81 |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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#82 |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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![]() Exhaust is done! 3" turbo back in stainless...
![]() ![]() ![]() QTP electric cut out ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Video coming soon! |
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#83 |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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![]() Exhaust sounds!! w/ electric cut out.
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#84 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: State College, PA
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![]() This is absolutely fantastic!
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#85 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Vancouver, Washington
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#86 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() 4cyl ecoboost engines sound pretty good with minimal exhaust.
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Cult Person. Pissing in your Kool-Aid. |
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#87 | |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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![]() Thanks!
Quote:
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#88 |
Volvo 486 owner :D
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Chepstow, Wales, Uk
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![]() Great build! Ass said on Youtube, keep up a good work!
![]() ADam - boosted242
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#89 |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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#90 |
Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Vancouver WA
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![]() I like this build a lot.
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#91 |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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![]() Thank you!
So a quick update... Got the car back to my house and out of my friend's shop. ![]() ![]() ![]() Keeping it real festive... ![]() A ground clearance shot of the exhaust and the trans x-member. I think I'll be raising the front up .5-1". ![]() UP NEXT: - fix the clutch (That will be my next post) - finish the interior wiring - get the windows in - install the interior panels |
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#92 |
faster than you think
![]() Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Denver, CO
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![]() Awesome! This is a very cool build.
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#93 |
Making Volvo Parts Fit
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockland County, NY
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![]() Very nice work! lots of nice details & touches to the build.
Curious what the fuse box came from that you used under the hood - most of the ones I've had access to don't flush mount, so hard to take advantage of. Was it original to the Mustang? Only details I would question are the ****ty American style worm clamps & the butt splices in your wiring :D |
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#94 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Vancouver, Washington
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#95 | |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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I've always used adhesive heat shrink connectors or heat shrink over quality normal connectors on vehicles. Use a proper racheting crimp tool and wire fatigue from vibration or over-heating the wire is a non-issue with the added bonus of being faster. |
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#96 |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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![]() So today is the 1st day I really drove the car properly granted it was only a total of about 20ft out of and into the garage. Thankfully, the brakes work well. This car will be a problem.
![]() Woot. The reason today was the 1st day was because I wasn't getting enough fluid movement to disengage the clutch while the car was running. The throwout bearing on the MT-82 has no port for pulling vacuum or power filing the clutch system so you have to expel the air on the bench manually. This video shows the process. How To: Bleed a Hydraulic Throwout Bearing After that was bled, I connected the hose from the master and after bleeding that line I ended up with a small leak. I double clamped this line, got better pressure and pedal feel, but not enough movement to work. ![]() My initial setup was a 10mm 90* banjo to 3AN male > 3AN female to 1/4" hose barb > 1/4" clutch line (supposedly) > the original late style quick connect that was in the mustang. ![]() ![]() This black sludge is why I said supposedly. This was new fluid with zero heat cycling. I also felt like the hose expanded a lot. It has been replaced with a 10mm 90* banjo to 3AN male > 3AN female to 3AN female PVC coated stainless steel hose > 3AN male to 4AN female > 4AN to late style clutch adapter ![]() ![]() ![]() Since the transmission side is a quick connect, I connected and tightened the master cylinder side of the hose, filled the reservoir, and pulled vacuum to fill the line and then pinched off the hose and fed it down to the trans. ![]() Popped in the connector and cleaned up the little bit of spilled fluid. Back up top, I made a tool to pull vacuum on the reservoir with a spare cap. Pumped to 19" for a minute, release the pressure, and hand pumped the clutch. INSTANTLY better feel. I did that process 3x just to be sure. ![]() Last edited by jstblz; 01-31-2021 at 03:21 AM.. |
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#97 |
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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![]() This is the super important locking clip for the high pressure fuel pump connection...
![]() ![]() ...so of course, I broke it immediately. Thanks to the internet, I can just print another ![]() If you don't know, Thingiverse is a repository for 3D printer files. The file can be found here: fuel line clip ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() This was printed in Apollo X ASA for its high heat resistance (compared to PLA) properties. |
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#98 |
Dejected by Volvo
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: North of Dallas
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![]() Not sure if I missed it. Are you planning to use the stock ecu tune or have you looked into a way to tune it? I use the Cobb Accessport for my Subaru and I know they have one for the 2.3 EcoBoost ECU, specifically designed for crate motor swaps.
https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/...e-ecoboost-ecu Dave B
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![]() '84 242ti, fourth owner, mine since 2003. Always garaged since brand new. Old-school rounds because I like. B21FT, SDS EFI/IGN, TD04HL-15G, T5Z trans with 0.73 OD, hydro clutch, 3.91 diff with unmodified G80. Volvo Ambivalence of Volvo Enthusiast Community: prancingmoose.com/#novolvo Dave's Volvo Page: davebarton.com 240 Mods and Fixes Pages: 240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html |
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#99 | |
Making Volvo Parts Fit
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rockland County, NY
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I understand - in the pic it looked like standard butt-splices, not the heat shrink variety - sorry. Nice work on the clutch line issues. I din't know one could buy that clutch line end _ cut & silver soldered one for my Volvo-master-into-X1/9 setup :D ![]() |
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#100 | ||
Board Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW PA
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Quote:
All good! I swear that clutch line connector is newer. I didn't see it last winter when I was researching for the failed clutch setup. Your setup looks cool! |
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