All you need to know about the M90

[Janspeed]

the stock shifter gave very slick shift without any noticeable clicks
since i installed the avalange short throw speedshifter it is more of a clicking action. Still smooth though

[vanapeer]

Ayee I used my old short shifter from M46 which is some 1cm lengthened.

Did anyone start the engine when M90 installed but propshaft not? 1 and 2 were quiet, in third you can hear some and 4 made quite loud rattle. I take its normal domino effect of gears when they have no load.

Today had a longer testdrive. Damn. Something's grinding.

[mark244turbo]

For all the people in Holland who want to put a M90 in a 240/260.

http://volvolvo.nl/forum/topic,3714.0/

[volvalover]

Originally Posted by Benzine

I'm using an M90 in my kit car. I'm using a non volvo m/c and I'm having trouble getting the clutch to work properly. Basically I have to have my foot right to the floor and then I can just about change gear, but it's hard. As i know flip all about hydraulic clutches, could this be a problem with the m/c not being big enough or a problem with the slave cylinder? It's a 3/4" m/c, I don't know what the m/c that came with the 960 was. There's no leaking fluid anywhere. I'm using an 850 clutch & flywheel. This is the kind of m/c i'm using, the .75 one

Any ideas on what I can do. FANX

is the master cyl. adjustable if so start with that before ya go adding shims

[Cojones]

John did a small run - 3 pieces i think - of M90 short throw shifters. I just installed and tried it, and damn I like it. It has nothing to do with the M46 the car once came out of the factory with. It kind of reminds me of an MX5 i once drove. Clean, crisp, short throws. It does require some more force to shift gear compared to the original M90 shifter, but it's worth the extra effort.

[Captain Bondo]

Originally Posted by volvalover

is the master cyl. adjustable if so start with that before ya go adding shims

Absolutely right. The clevis on the master is adjustable, and will most likely need to be adjusted.

This threads remonds me I need to hit up John about a short shifter, or even just the bushings.

[pwaes]

Did some thinking. (Ouch... that hurt )

Why not use an 850r clutch disc and pressure plate (240mm) and the stock dogdish (m4*) flywheel, machine flatten the dogdish flywheel and drill & tap 6 holes for the m8 screws? Then you have the dogdish with the 60-2 pattern for LH and a 850r clutch setup (240mm) for more clamping pressure? Do I need to make any modifications on the clutch fork ? Any thoughts about the height of the setup?

[Turbosteen]

I wouldn't spend my money on having someone machining the stock flywheel, waste of money imho, and the result is to risky I think.

The TTV billet flywheel I have in the 760 is unbeatable in price/quality. I bet you that adapting the volvo dogdish is already pretty expensive and time consuming anyway.

[pwaes]

Originally Posted by Turbosteen

I wouldn't spend my money on having someone machining the stock flywheel, waste of money imho, and the result is to risky I think.

The TTV billet flywheel I have in the 760 is unbeatable in price/quality. I bet you that adapting the volvo dogdish is already pretty expensive and time consuming anyway.

OK, did a little searching:

B230 Red Block 850R 'Lite'

Lightweight billet steel
Single piece design integral teeth
Suits standard 850R diameter clutch
Dynamically balanced
Weight: XXKg
Part number: 1090

Stockist: info@ttvracing.com

Is this the one you have?

[Turbosteen]

Originally Posted by pwaes

Is this the one you have?

Looks like the right one, don't know what part number it was but the description fits what I have (B230 + 850R PP)

see this post http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...&postcount=227

Looks a million times better than the volvo flywheel

[foggyjames]

I don't think what you're suggesting would work anyway - I think the timing pattern is in the 'dished' section, so removing that to make a flat mating surface would remove the timing marks, or at least the bulk of them. I suspect that the mating surface on the TTV flywheel is actually further back than on the dished one...i.e. it's thicker as far as the mating surface, but without the dished section.

cheers

James

[Wagner]

Originally Posted by foggyjames

I don't think what you're suggesting would work anyway - I think the timing pattern is in the 'dished' section, so removing that to make a flat mating surface would remove the timing marks, or at least the bulk of them. I suspect that the mating surface on the TTV flywheel is actually further back than on the dished one...i.e. it's thicker as far as the mating surface, but without the dished section.



cheers



James

The trigger pattern is not on the dish section, but behind it.

[foggyjames]

I take it all back I've been looking at them recently (swapping a B200 in a 360 on Renix with a 44-4 or similar pattern to a B230FT on LH2.4), but my mind must have been playing tricks!

cheers

James

[volvoz2000]

Hi All,

the pics are missing at the sart of this topic in the instructions for welding up third gear synchro on M90, does anybody have another link or can repost pictures etc.....?

thanks

[katluke]

Originally Posted by volvoz2000

Hi All,

the pics are missing at the sart of this topic in the instructions for welding up third gear synchro on M90, does anybody have another link or can repost pictures etc.....?

thanks

+ 1

[Rust Reaper]

Originally Posted by katluke

+ 1

+2 The original pics would be a great help, as well as preserving the purpose of the post; people not asking random M90 questions when "it's been covered on this board in great depth"

[Captain Bondo]

I have this picture from when I did it. It's pretty much all you need. It doesn't make much sense out of context but once you pull the tailshaft housing off the trans it will. :



The only tricky part is you need a good 2 jaw puller to get the 4th gear assembly off.

[jonah]

I'm just putting some new input and output seals in my M90 and decided to change the selector shaft seal too, but, I couldn't get it out, and as I didn't want to damage anything I decided to take the back cover off to make it easy.

So, can anyone recommend what sealant I should use to seal the two halves together again? And, what is the torque figure for the rear flange nut? Apologies if this has been covered somewhere in this thread.

[Captain Bondo]

Originally Posted by jonah

I'm just putting some new input and output seals in my M90 and decided to change the selector shaft seal too, but, I couldn't get it out, and as I didn't want to damage anything I decided to take the back cover off to make it easy.

So, can anyone recommend what sealant I should use to seal the two halves together again? And, what is the torque figure for the rear flange nut? Apologies if this has been covered somewhere in this thread.

Reseal with anaerobic sealer. Dunno abut the flange - I would just put some loctite on it and crank it down. I would always just rattle it down with an impact.

[Homer]

Rear flange nut is 115 ft/lbs based on the green/blue manual. (Or thereabouts, I don't have the manual in front of me)

[jonah]

Thank you gentlemen.

[luyopadre]

hello, would somebody tell me why am I not able to see the pics about the welding of the M90 3rd syncro. I need to do it these days and I remember that there were also pics on the first page where the details are. But now I see only text without pics.

thx,

[Captain Bondo]

apparently pbase killed my account. Nice.

[Wagner]

Here is a page from Bilport magazine from the year 2001 showing the ring you need to weld.

[luyopadre]

thx, could you give me any more details, how to weld it, and if possible pictures, I'm not so familiar with swedish .