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Old 06-28-2018, 11:05 AM   #376
Chris_R
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Project is coming along nicely!

I don't suppose the hood was on that car?
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Ermergherd!! Erm gernner kerhm!!
1995 964 (Silver)
1992 944Ti (White)
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1994 945 Ti (Black) - Sirius Black Scrap
1992 944 GL (Black) - Killed by drunk driver
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Old 06-28-2018, 06:30 PM   #377
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Project is coming along nicely!

I don't suppose the hood was on that car?
Thank you sir...... nope, that hood was purchased from Wren several years back. Actually still painted in Polar White, when you compare that color to the rest of my car (minus pass. fender) you can see how much darker the repaint actually is.

TONIGHT - coolant and oil change..... the key finger and thumb are itching.
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Old 06-29-2018, 11:28 AM   #378
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Sorry, I meant was the hood still available on the junkyard car you pulled the fender from? If so, which yard was it?
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Old 06-30-2018, 07:38 AM   #379
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Sorry, I meant was the hood still available on the junkyard car you pulled the fender from? If so, which yard was it?
Yes, hood was there. Not wrecked, but several dents.

Pullapart North, 2nd row on the end against the fence.
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Old 08-11-2018, 09:43 PM   #380
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Default Ever closer to back on the road.....

Well it's been a good while since an update.... vacation along with wife's honey-do list work slowing things up a bit, but finally completed some jobs today.

For the first time since April 2017, the car is back on 4 wheels:



All of the rear suspension "torque points" have been waiting for the car to sit on the springs at normal ride height. With all these connections just snugged, I rolled the car forward and backward in my 2 car long basement shop..... this to get everything "familiar with each other" before again elevating the car rear back to ramps for torque application.

Since the rubber suspension bushings torsion as the suspension travels, one must NOT torque them until total weight is back fully on springs & dampers. Once in that "normal ride height condition" the bolted connections are torqued so that the torsion as the suspension articulates is +/- the same amount of torsional strain; that is to say each rubber bushing is neutral at normal ride height. If you make the mistake of torquing these points with the suspension at full droop, you will over strain these bushings resulting in failure. I retained the original VOLVO rubber bushings at the 4 points in the dog bones; Hopefully the added torque doesn't destroy these....and I won't ever run poly joints. We shall see how they do.

For 7/9 Posterity, the front thru bolt on the damper/sway bar (along with pan hard bar) torque at 63 lb.ft, the small rear sway bar flat head bolt is at 35 lb.ft, and the dog bone torque arms which control the rear end reactions are torqued at 103 lb.ft, all 4 points.

Here you can see the various torque points:





Here a picture of the "progressive rate" rear spring, loaded. Note the 4.10 ratio tag on the axle..... looking forward to that +10% torque to the tires!




One of the longterm annoyances for me has been the TME exhaust.... the CAT back 2.5" stainless system. I've always loved the exhaust note.... I think TME nailed that part. The issue I've always had with it was when attached to the pipe exiting the CAT, the rear tip of the muffler was never horizontal, but pointing down toward the road. With the experience TME has in making exhaust, they can't have screwed this up as found. While the guy who sold me this used insisted it was for the 7/9 cars, I wonder if he was given the wrong front pipe (axle forward). Regardless, with the last hurrah it is time to fix this properly.

I elevated one of the rear hangers to level the muffler L-R with the bumper, and customized the front of axle U-clamp with extensions, so that the muffler tip is level to the road as it passes under the bumper:





Of course, the remedy for the muffler created more work at the CAT back area. What I've done is purchased a couple pieces of stainless 2.5" pipe, and will buy a mandrel bend that I plan to section up and then butt weld it all together. Looks like the old man will be learning how to MIG stainless...... skills that will be needed in my future 242 Whiteblock build.

Here's the section that will be modified for a nice smooth flow to that IPD tip:


Last edited by DET17; 08-12-2018 at 08:15 AM.. Reason: coffee edits the morning after
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:26 PM   #381
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Fire up/first drive date?
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Old 08-12-2018, 03:19 PM   #382
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Sign up for Eurofest in Greenville last weekend in October. That will give you a firm target to shoot for.
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Old 08-12-2018, 03:40 PM   #383
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Was it Godfather’s Glass out of Marietta Tom?
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:11 PM   #384
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That's who did my windshield in the wagon. Very familiar with Volvo's.

Sorry about the Hi-Jack.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:39 PM   #385
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Fire up/first drive date?
Fired up in the garage, late June. First drive yet TBD.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:42 PM   #386
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Sign up for Eurofest in Greenville last weekend in October. That will give you a firm target to shoot for.
I'd love to see your Bertone..... we'll have to see about the end of October, that is when I normally trout fish the Smokies (GSMNP) right before the time change.
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Old 08-12-2018, 10:25 PM   #387
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Well, the show is in a gateway-town to the Smokies....
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:07 PM   #388
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Default Wasted spark redux

In my original version of the vaunted Buchka Bros. wasted spark, I used a non-chippable EZK, the original from my 92 940T. For the last hurrah, now fitted with a Mitsu 19t and a real intercooler (with the resulting boost temptation) I decided to upgrade my ignition to the gold box EZK with the daughter card that allows chipping the ignition. I've long owned a gold box EZK with TLAO ignition chip for "more retard" when boosting, but decided not to risk damaging the printed circuit board with my beginner soldering skills (decision made back about 5 years ago). Since then I've raised my game in soldering electronics, and decided to proceed.

Here we see the rev.1 wasted spark alongside the redux version 2:



Note that the molex 2 pin connector position must flip when using a chipable EZK, compared to my rev.1 version. That presents a bit of a hassle when fitting the EZK back into the factory mount, as the molex connector & wires encounter the cabin sheet metal above the brake pedal. I've had to rotate the EZK 90* to provide clearance for the wasted spark output wires...as well as a modification to the mounting of the EZK.

In more detail:



You can see the wiring routing for the 20ga control and output wires (all TTL sized; nothing here carries any current and is all 5V max). Note the black colored 2nd generation BuchkaSpark board. Compare the new (old) version:



I believe this little green WS board is from the original Buchka Bros. group buy.... it is labeled #19 on the back. I bought this from a TBer up in Alaska..... so it's pretty well traveled

Notice the different wire landing points on the board.... the brothers revised the arrangement, I'll assume it was done for "cost down", but I can't really say. The small 20ga wiring was donated from a Megasquirt harness leftovers... and while I'm no soldering expert, as best practice I tinned both the stripped wire ends and the various landing points prior to final solder assembly. A little 25watt Weller soldering iron was all that was needed. Anyone going down this road - study some training videos on soldering before you ruin your parts... and practice on a trashed PCB before you add the ground connection; that was the tricky part of the assembly.

Some closeups comparing the boards:




Most importantly - the new (old version) wasted spark works with my gold box EZK and TLAO ignition chip. She fires up and purrs nicely, what with no exhaust cat back!

Next tasks - installation of my 740SE front fog lights, and the MIG work fitting and welding my stainless 409L pipes to complete the exhaust. Once these are done, the car will be dangerously close to heading for paint.
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Old 08-18-2018, 08:27 PM   #389
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1st rate....
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:01 AM   #390
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Great project, nice attention to detail!
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:47 AM   #391
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Much to late to be of any use, but as far as paper filter replacements for a 76mm AMM

Mercedes 2710940204
Height [mm]: 249
O.D. [mm]: 132,5
I.D. [mm]: 77,2



or you go overboard and use the Mercedes 6110940204


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Old 08-21-2018, 10:38 AM   #392
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Excellent work as always. Pretty exciting that you're getting close to having the car on the road. I didn't know you were having it repainted too. Dang! Looking forward to seeing the final product.
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:37 PM   #393
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I promised the Wife (CFO) that I'll be driving this sedan to retirement, so I'm going for broke (near literally). A new windscreen will be installed just prior to the paint work, and then hopefully continuous daily service.
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:20 PM   #394
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I'd remove the old windscreen just before paint -- and install a new one just after..... I screwed that up on mine.
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Old 08-24-2018, 06:59 AM   #395
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I'd remove the old windscreen just before paint -- and install a new one just after..... I screwed that up on mine.
Well my glass guy is 4 miles away, and the paint shop is 30+ miles away. I don't personally see any benefit to glass post paint...... all the glass guys can do is nick my new paint during the install. I'd rather chance some overspray on the glass..... and I'll be clear to them that the glass is NEW, so they'd better not damage it.

Next updates - 740SE fog lights and the MIG weld out of SS exhaust from the cat back.
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Old 08-24-2018, 07:43 AM   #396
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It's the masking around the rubber/paint line I wish I'd avoided. Figured, as is the case for almost all glass shops, they'd come to the car. So you drive to paint -- glass folks remove (or the paint shop does) and then new glass installed after paint. Paint shops deal with this all the time. But if your glass guy only works out of his shop....I understand it raises some logistical issues.

I'm in the middle of trying to secure wider windshield trim for the replacement flush-fit windshield for mine -- so when I put the new glass in it covers up the paint line. Unfortunately, the trim on the replacement glass is slightly smaller than the old style 240 trim.
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Old 08-24-2018, 07:57 AM   #397
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The windshield pinch weld is a prime place for rust. See a spot, it is a lot larger under the glass. Best to treat any before paint.
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Old 08-24-2018, 08:26 AM   #398
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I live precariously through you for your attention to detail, which I cannot achieve in my own car. I'm digging this .
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Old 08-24-2018, 05:48 PM   #399
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It's the masking around the rubber/paint line I wish I'd avoided.
A pillar and top windscreen trim removed; this is a different dance on the 7/9 than the antique 240s. I will need one of those "flush glass seals" for my 242, which I think were OE in 92 & 93 models.... but I digress.

In my case the trim is off, so they can shoot my repaint right down to the clips for retention of my trim, and their DOW glass sealant adhesive.

Glass guy changed my 92 745T yesterday, it looks damn good. I'll be glad to have nice new China glass to look through for the balance of my ownership of Cheap Thrills. He's been at the same location since '72 (Father & son operation), and the only China glass he uses is the same company that is OEM on KIA and Hyundai. He agrees that most of the aftermarket China glass is crap.

And for TestPoint: the DD is rust free - car purchased new in ChattaVegas TN and has never left the SE. I've sure seen my share of rust around the windscreen pocket on other vehicles, rust belt vehicles in particular.

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Old 08-24-2018, 06:12 PM   #400
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In my case the trim is off, so they can shoot my repaint right down to the clips for retention of my trim, and there DOW glass sealant adhesive.
Ah.....keep forgetting they're not all the same.

Who/Where is your "glass guy"?

I think you'll find that the ONLY windshield you can get for your 240 series of any year is the flush-fit late model unit. Many stories out there of folks with older 240's being told by glass companies "sorry, we can't get a windshield for yours" not knowing that the newer unit goes right in the older car. But - apparently a paint line will show.
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