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Old 03-31-2018, 06:24 PM   #176
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Hey ya', Craig, I love cruisin' around on U toob. Found this from Pedantic Publishing. They have some pretty good suspension tutorials.

Here's an interesting concept:

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Old 03-31-2018, 07:41 PM   #177
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Originally Posted by evolvo67 View Post
Hey ya', Craig, I love cruisin' around on U toob. Found this from Pedantic Publishing. They have some pretty good suspension tutorials.

Here's an interesting concept:

That's very cool for a rear steer set up. I'm tuning into their channel to see if there is some pithy advice for setting up an anti roll bar rate.

I can't believe I've spent a week working on suspension dynamics. And I wonder why I get stalled every once in a while!

I'll get a few more parts sorted out this week and just get the frame tossed under the car for a bit. Then I've got some sheet metal work to do on the pedal box/false floor part of the build... that can happen while I wait for the ARB parts to come in.
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Old 04-06-2018, 12:14 PM   #178
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Old 05-09-2018, 06:19 PM   #179
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Sorry for the delay...work (the paying kind) needed doing so I had to slow up on the video production. This one's short...more content to follow.

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Old 05-22-2018, 03:08 PM   #180
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Back rolling on the video production. This week's installment - the front frame is getting some love.

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Old 05-24-2018, 09:13 PM   #181
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Well, there is always something. The tie rod goes right over the sway bar mount.



Perfectly where I don't want it...well, I'll make some brackets to move this mount. It's actually a bit of a blessing as I can now change the motion ratio to something a little more favourable.



The engine and transmission have gone in and out several times. Not an easy job (I've made a mobile base for this - but still).



Give or take - this is about what I can get for angle. The oil pan fouls the rack if lower and the rear of the pan will need to be cut to make this work.



I got bold with the plasma and cut the top of the trans tunnel off.



The drive shaft angle isn't too bad - the rear seat cross member should be OK for positioning.

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Old 05-25-2018, 04:57 AM   #182
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Since I don't think you're using the stock heater box that motor needs to move back and down. Like 75-100mm by the looks of it! You need room for the rad and inter cooler anyway, JMO.
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:43 AM   #183
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Since I don't think you're using the stock heater box that motor needs to move back and down. Like 75-100mm by the looks of it! You need room for the rad and inter cooler anyway, JMO.
Back for sure has to happen (the trans tunnel is just hitting the side of the bell housing right now) but it can't go much more down at the front. It can go down an inch or a little less at the transmission side. The steering rack prevents any further down at the front.
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Old 05-26-2018, 09:22 AM   #184
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Great work. Reading, looking, awesome to see!
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Old 05-26-2018, 10:41 AM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evolvo67 View Post
Since I don't think you're using the stock heater box that motor needs to move back and down. Like 75-100mm by the looks of it! You need room for the rad and inter cooler anyway, JMO.

Still thinking about this Alan. What are your thoughts on notching the firewall a little to allow more down and maybe back. I've been thinking about it. I may need to take this mock up engine out and do some experimenting with my other pan/bell housing set up to see if that's a possibility.

It may get better...might get worse.
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Old 05-26-2018, 12:49 PM   #186
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You've already cut out most of the supporting structure, you might as well move it back.

I set my motor with the balancer behind the front axle centerline, leaving room for the turbo(s?) in front.
Since so much of the structure gets removed just to get a decent location I went ahead with more drastic measures.
I started sneaking up on it and so much of the car was already gone, I went all in.
I figured to make up for the structural intrusion with cage maybe some of it removable to get at the motor, or drop the motor out the bottom.
I removed both the pedal box and the battery box because they are non-structural and would not be reused.
Then followed the top line across between them leaving a flange to work with later.
This also left a flange towards the center each side of the hood hinges to work with.

Last edited by Dirty Rick; 05-26-2018 at 01:11 PM..
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Old 05-26-2018, 12:52 PM   #187
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Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
You've already cut out most of the supporting structure, you might as well move it back.

I set my motor with the balancer behind the front axle centerline, leaving room for the turbo(s?).
Since so much of the structure gets removed just to get a decent location I went ahead with more drastic measures.
I started sneaking up on it and so much of the car was already gone, I went all in.
I figured to make up for the structural intrusion with cage maybe some of it removable to get at the motor, or drop the motor out the bottom.
Any photo's would be appreciated. I just measured it up and if I can get 5/6" back from where it is here, then it could go down a little, but it may create issues with steering input shafts and balancer.
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:11 PM   #188
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I was in the middle of a reply when Dirty Rick chimed in and basically said the same thing I was. Cut out as much as you need to make it happen then fill it back in around what you've done. That's how we did mine. Cut out side to side as close to the hinges without compromising them and down to the floor pans between the wheel wells. You've already done your pedal box so make it work without moving them.
I'll email you a couple of pics that show the end result.
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Old 06-01-2018, 12:46 PM   #189
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Here's the latest video effort...almost the final bit of footage shot with the old and failing camera set-up. In this epic, I explain how to get the steering sorted out.

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Old 06-03-2018, 08:27 PM   #190
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Just before I go and do something I may regret later, I thought I'd post the idea. Everything is at a standstill right now until I can get the engine and transmission position finalized. Everything hinges on this key decision. I've got tight spots everywhere and issues at every turn. From the previous non-video post, you can see the engine needed to go back - no problem, I hacked away at the firewall a little more and got the engine all the way back to the firewall (bell housing fully inside the passenger compartment. This solves the issue of "back" - which is a polar moment of inertia thing, but caused a number of other problems. The oil filter relocation adapter then hit the rack (or my measurements indicated that it would hit the rack.

So back out it comes to a more oil filter friendly position - I did go as far as working out how to zero clearance the oil out of the pan (2.375" is how thick my Canton right angle adapter is...and this was too much)...so much wasted time. The engine seems happiest with all the parts if cylinder 2 is sitting on the wheel centre line. I'm OK with that - lots of room for a radiator/intercooler etc up front.

Next up was to quit farting around with the pan off the engine and get the actual clearances in place. This is the part where I'm looking for some feedback (thumbs up/thumbs down sort of stuff). With the engine roughly in place, I created a cardboard template the referenced the bottom of the block and the subframe as "constraints" - then I added 1" of clearance to all hard subframe points. I then transferred the clearance lines to the back of the pan and began laying out what I needed. My idea is to keep as much of the wide sump as is practical. I measured the dip stick/tube to establish where "full" is and then mapped that oil location across the pan.

Here you can see the driver side of the sump with a couple of cut options...either straight up or at an angle. The angle doesn't get me much other than a fabrication headache as the fluid volume is only 1" or so above the cut line. So loss of volume would be minor.



Backside of the driver side.



Another angle.



Passenger side is a little more dramatic as the engine tilt tosses the pan right into the lower control arm frame support. The easiest solution is to just square it off and live with it.



The other side.



So that's where I'm at - any feedback before I go and get the hole saw out would be fantastic.

Last edited by Canuck; 06-03-2018 at 08:57 PM..
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Old 06-18-2018, 12:32 AM   #191
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Ya' gotta do what ya' gotta do. Cut it till it works! Now that funny appendage on the front of the engine wrapped in green tape. I'm guessing that's an oil passage to a cooler? I would remove it and make an aluminum plate to take it's place drilled and tapped 1/2" NPT so you could us AN fittings. I see you posted this two weeks ago. Hopefully you've already moved forward and on to the next probl, er, solution!!
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Old 07-02-2018, 10:38 PM   #192
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So I caught up and binged all the episodes. More please!
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:05 AM   #193
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So I caught up and binged all the episodes. More please!
Thanks Igor. I'm working on a few work projects that have taken over the garage. Just finished on the weekend and expect to be rolling with video updates in the next week or so.
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Old 07-12-2018, 07:05 PM   #194
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As promised - sorry for the delay. I'm clear of the work projects that have been taking up the little space that I've got in the garage. So we're back on the project full-time for the rest of the summer...and by full-time, I mean in my spare time.

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Old 07-13-2018, 10:41 AM   #195
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All you need is a narrow and shallow pan an oil scraper and one of these.



Then you can toss it around like a kids toy and rev it to max piston speed without having one eye on the oil pressure gauge.
And by the way, once you notice the oil pressure is down or dipping it's usually too late....
You can also double the oil capacity to help cool it.
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Old 07-13-2018, 11:39 AM   #196
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Dry sumps are great, but a less expensive alternative is one of these:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/23900/10002/-1
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Old 07-15-2018, 11:41 PM   #197
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The problem won't be solved by a dry sump...the front of the 960 pan is about as thin as it can be where it needs to be if that makes sense. I had to sort out the volume at the rear of the pan and get it past the suspension. I've got that sorted now as the engine is now tacked in place.
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:08 PM   #198
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Very nice work. Can we see your oil pan solution or do we have to wait for the next YT episode?
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:37 PM   #199
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Very nice work. Can we see your oil pan solution or do we have to wait for the next YT episode?
Oh, that won't be on the YT for a while...I'll take some pictures and make a post later this week.
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:41 PM   #200
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So while we're all waiting for me to get a "solution" to the oil pain problem...here's where we're at with that part of the project.



This is the passenger side...now before you go and think that I've cut too much off, let me explain myself. That area of the stock pan not only tapers from front to back in an awkward way for my suspension but it also goes from almost 3" deep to 1" deep in the process. Rather than mess around with that nonsense, I just lopped it all off. I've got some 5052 folded up and ready to weld on once I cap it...I've been busy working on engine mounts in the mean time, as you can see.

Here's the clearance over the rack.



With the style of motor mount I'm running, I've got little doubt that things won't move. In fact, the poly is so hard that I'm going to make my own mounts out of something with a durometer less than diamond. As it sits, that's about 3/8" over the tight spot with engine torque working away from the pinch point. I will have to trim the back of the oil filter adapter a little to clear the rack. I don't care - it has to happen and they provided a lot of extra meat back there that can be gone for more clearance.

Driver's side got a little out of control. My pattern worked, but the material isn't going to make that turn nicely - so I'll have to loose a little more off the pan. Probably just straighten the little bulge that covers the LCA bracket.





Thinking I'd go on an angle from where the pan currently juts out to the clearance I need. I'll give it some shape to make it look nice. Don't really want to loose any of the sweet volume on this side...but welding 3/16"5052 with only 200A on tap isn't exactly a lot of fun either. Looking forward to wrapping this up.

Oh...I made a transmission cross member because, well...you need that.

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