home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-02-2018, 09:29 PM   #126
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Been working on some things:

1) NVH reduction: I was tired of all the interior buzz / rattle that turned up after the T5 swap so I added some 40oz jute carpet padding in the cabin / trunk. This helped to lessen the idle noise of the transmission and the general road noise while driving. I systematically replaced all solid / poly bushings in the rear with rubber (except for the panhard rod). The most noticeable improvement came from replacing the BNE solid torque rods with the BNE Hybrid version which resulted in a major reduction in cabin noise. The car is much nicer to drive now. It still has the “decel rattle” on hard engine braking in the same rpm band as before, but the noise level has dropped significantly. I considered adding the Aerostar dampened slip yoke to my driveshaft, but IMO there is not enough slip yoke engagement with that unit (it is shorter than the normal T5 slip yoke). If I had my ds lengthened by 1.5-2” then I would run it and the decel rattel would probably be cured, but I’m ok with it as-is for now.




2) Turbo upgrade: I rebuilt a used 16T and paired that with a TD04HL conical turbine housing so I could use it with my current exhaust setup. I used a piece of 1/4" steel plate I had laying around to fabricate a re-clocked wastegate bracket. It's not pretty, but very functional. I also reused the 13C wastegate actuator. With my MBC I have the boost set at 10psi, AFR is ~11.8-12.0 in boost. I needed to reduce the preload on the wastegate a little bit to prevent boost spiking. With the same preload as the 13C it would spike to 12 and settle to 10. From a drivability standpoint, the 16T has a much smoother response than the 13C. In other words, the 13C had a noticeable "torque bump" when rolling onto the throttle. The 16T does not have this characteristic but has a more progressive power increase and the car feels like it has stronger acceleration than before and is more responsive at higher rpms. I know there is more benefit to be had by doing a 3" downpipe / exhaust / straight-exit turbine housing, but I'm pretty happy with the improvement as-is for now.



Wastegate opening comparison.


3) Headlight relay upgrade: I followed the Daniel Stern method of adding a H and L relay for the headlights. I did this more out of principle than need...it is nice to know that the headlight current load is no longer being carried through the headlight switch and also some of the ~40 yr-old wiring connections were quite corroded.

4) Added a wooden shift knob and a leather shift boot for a little class in the interior.



5) When I have 1/3 tank or less of fuel and the temp is 75*F or higher my fuel pumps get loud and the main pump sounds like it's pumping a bit of air. The fuel lines also get hot to the touch after driving for a while. If I fill up, the pumps are nice and quiet. I wonder if with the Kjet pump setup, the pumps are moving a lot more fuel than I really need and are heating/aerating the fuel at lower fuel levels. I am considering converting to a single DW in-tank pump and getting rid of the Kjet pumps.
__________________
-Mike
1998 V70 T5
1979 242 DL+T |Project Thread| |Feedback|

Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 05-02-2018 at 09:35 PM..
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2018, 10:51 PM   #127
Uncleknucklez
bruspeed
 
Uncleknucklez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Default

Great update on this one Mike, I plan to finally slap on my 16T 3” DP this weekend, looking forward to it!

The fuel thing could be the rubber hose between the in tank and the pickup could be deteriorating or cracked. Below a certain fuel level the hose will be exposed and suck air and make the main fuel pump noisy. I’d check it if you haven’t replaced it.
__________________
1980 242 Turbo
2004 V70R

Uncleknucklez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2018, 04:52 AM   #128
JonnyP
Bored Member
 
JonnyP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: ON. Canada
Default

You might want to check out these roto joints. "The Roto-Joint is designed to work like a spherical rod end while maintaining streetable qualities of a softer bushing"

https://umiperformance.com/catalog/images/rotojoint.jpg

Either way great write-up on your project.
JonnyP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2018, 06:37 AM   #129
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
The fuel thing could be the rubber hose between the in tank and the pickup could be deteriorating or cracked. Below a certain fuel level the hose will be exposed and suck air and make the main fuel pump noisy. I’d check it if you haven’t replaced it.
Good point..that hose should be ok b/c I replaced the in-tank pump a few years ago w/ the ipd "upgrade" pump and the hose supplied with the kit seemed stout and of good quality (and the proper fuel-submersible type), but it's worth checking I guess.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2018, 10:18 AM   #130
JW240
All idiot, no savant
 
JW240's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Netherlands, Europe
Default

Nice, lookin good!
Those tq rods are nice. I have similar but homemade and its very noticeable how the rear suspension works better for going fast and is still quite comfy at the same time.
__________________
240 | 1991 | 330 KKm | B230F+T | Cossie T3 60/63 | M90 | TrueTrack
Husaberg FE450 '12 supermoto swapped



Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Don't forget about properly seasoning it on HF jackstands for a couple years whilst dreaming about big powah 'goals'.
JW240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2018, 11:25 AM   #131
LC4CARL
Aero challenged
 
LC4CARL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Default

Great write up.
__________________
Built-not-bought: PDXdl Resto-Mod.

#carlfeague on IG.

LC4CARL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2018, 09:11 PM   #132
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Another comment about the 16T...the overall drivability is improved, seems like it has more torque out of boost as well. To me it is noticeable during hwy cruising. With the 0.68 5th gear, 70mph is ~2700rpm and previously small throttle inputs / hills were enough to start spooling the 13C, but now it generally stays out of boost but still feels torquey...if that makes sense.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2018, 09:17 PM   #133
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Did a few things...

-swapped from 785 "orange top" injectors to 831 "brown" injectors to support some more boost from the 16T.

-installed an NPR intercooler. It fits alright after installing a spacer on the top and bottom. The oil cooler had to lose the top bracket and air guide in order to remain in the stock location. I followed a similar method as Simi (link) to clean up the charge piping. Hot side is a 2" 90* elbow, 2" 45* pipe, 2"/2.75" 45* reducer. Cold side a 2.75"/2.5" straight reducer + stock pipe (minus ~1"). Also added t-bolt clamps to all the charge pipe connections. The IAC hoses needed to be redone as well, but nbd. Conveniently found a loose hose connection here which may have been part of the reason why I was having trouble boosting over 10psi. Is there a noticeable difference? IMO, the boost comes on more smoothly.






-been having some erratic boost behavior as I have attempted to up the boost >10psi. MBC is primary suspect right now (homebrew Grainger unit). After adjusting the MBC as I have many times previously, I would get no boost increase for a few pulls and then it would let loose and I had a few 2nd gear blasts to over 15 (pegged gauge) which while fun, brought on some higher AFRs and a few audible pings...no bueno. I have a replacement MBC to swap in and if that doesn't sort it out I'll look at the wastegate actuator (currently using a 13C actuator on the 16T).

Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 06-30-2018 at 09:26 PM..
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 09:51 AM   #134
Uncleknucklez
bruspeed
 
Uncleknucklez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
Did a few things...
-been having some erratic boost behavior as I have attempted to up the boost >10psi. MBC is primary suspect right now (homebrew Grainger unit). After adjusting the MBC as I have many times previously, I would get no boost increase for a few pulls and then it would let loose and I had a few 2nd gear blasts to over 15 (pegged gauge) which while fun, brought on some higher AFRs and a few audible pings...no bueno. I have a replacement MBC to swap in and if that doesn't sort it out I'll look at the wastegate actuator (currently using a 13C actuator on the 16T).
I found that I was having wild over boost settings with the 13c WGA and rigged up mount on my 16T. In my thread is a pic of the mount I fabbed for a Kinugawa WGA setup, I highly recommend you try one out. Rock solid boost settings at 17 PSI using the 1.2 bar spring and an MBC.

I also found that I gained almost 2 psi when I switched over to the NPR and all hard pipe setup, did you notice any increases in pressure?
Uncleknucklez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 10:25 AM   #135
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Hmm, I didn’t really notice much of a boost increase after the NPR swap.

I may follow what you did with the WGA change but was also considering one of the higher psi rated 13C actuators as well. We shall see.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 10:38 AM   #136
Uncleknucklez
bruspeed
 
Uncleknucklez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Default

Interesting, I wonder if I had something going on that allowed for more "potential" after I changed all that stuff.
Uncleknucklez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 10:57 AM   #137
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Yea perhaps. You have a few more mods than I do, possibly the 3” exhaust or chips helped out a bit.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 03:31 PM   #138
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

Very nice 242 build young man! Seen your posts popping up, but finally got a chance today to look thru your entire thread. Nice quality workmanship which seems scarce these days on TB, what with the LS love fest in full stroke.

Couple Q's I couldn't discern: is the engine still the original B21 NA, just plus boost? You also still running LH2.2 engine management?

To the latter, if you intend to keep this deuce for the long haul, consider a MegaSquirt conversion...... you will learn MUCH more about what these 4 stroke engines need to thrive. I put EFI into a 1970 Chevelle (speaking of analog motoring) with MS2, and really enjoyed the experience. You will come to love Tuner Studio, datalogging, etc. etc.

Keep it up.
__________________
Project "cheap thrills" build thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...67#post4211467

Feedback thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=198746
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2018, 04:17 PM   #139
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Thanks for the kind words!

-Yes the engine is the stock ‘79 B21F with the added turbo bits.
-Yes it is running LH2.2 engine management & EZK ignition.

I would like the learning experience of doing an MS conversion for sure...but prob not going to happen on this car for a while.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2018, 09:10 PM   #140
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

A step forward on the NVH front...
I changed from my 45.25" Mustang driveshaft to a 46" driveshaft from Pit Stop USA (PST310460) (link) which allowed me to use the Aerostar dampened slip yoke I bought a while ago. End result is that some driveline vibrations are eliminated and that the decel rattle is reduced, but not totally gone. It is really only noticeable during engine braking right between about 2500 and 2750 rpm instead of up to 3500 rpm as before, so I'll chalk that up to a success.

Pic for reference.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 10:28 AM   #141
Uncleknucklez
bruspeed
 
Uncleknucklez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
A step forward on the NVH front...
I changed from my 45.25" Mustang driveshaft to a 46" driveshaft from Pit Stop USA (PST310460) (link) which allowed me to use the Aerostar dampened slip yoke I bought a while ago. End result is that some driveline vibrations are eliminated and that the decel rattle is reduced, but not totally gone. It is really only noticeable during engine braking right between about 2500 and 2750 rpm instead of up to 3500 rpm as before, so I'll chalk that up to a success.

Pic for reference.
This is my EXACT experience with the damper, I still get the rattles from 2500 to 2800 RPM, but reduced/eliminated elsewhere.

I'd like to get a set of the hybrid torque rods for my car me thinks.

Also, I love that the DS is white! In the dirt track world they are required to be white so if one "jumps" out of a car, it can be seen on the track.
Uncleknucklez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2018, 10:38 AM   #142
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
Also, I love that the DS is white! In the dirt track world they are required to be white so if one "jumps" out of a car, it can be seen on the track.
Ha! I wondered why they chose to paint them in white. Makes sense.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2018, 09:00 AM   #143
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Issue 1) Erratic boost behavior
-WGA bracket was flexing under WG preload, shimmed it to remove flex
-removed MBC and added a stiffer WGA spring (trial and error, the Kinugawa springs are not exactly as advertised…currently using a “1.2 bar” spring)
-fixed some boost leaks (hot side hose, brake booster check valve, EVAP check valve)
-now boosts a consistent 12-13psi

Issue 2) Driveshaft rubbing over bumps when accelerating
-raised rear of car ~1/2” via large washers above the upper rear spring seat
-pinion angle is ~0.5* nose down

Issue 3) Coolant venting from reservoir during high rpm driving
-based on others experiences, suspect a cavitating water pump
-sourced a larger water pump pulley and a KL Racing underdrive crank pulley
-needed 2x shorter belts (15350)
-no more coolant spray under the hood!





Also was tired of the Virgo wheels and replaced them with a set of Aries (thanks Billy780).



Overall I’m very happy with the car now. It really rips when the boost comes on and NVH is acceptable.

Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 08-25-2018 at 03:50 PM..
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2018, 09:09 AM   #144
Uncleknucklez
bruspeed
 
Uncleknucklez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Default

Nice update Mike, have you noticed any charging issues with the smaller pulley?

My car has a 100 alt in it, and with the AC and headlights on I can pretty much bury the voltmeter, that would be a concern of mine to sort before going with an underdrive pulley.
Uncleknucklez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2018, 09:21 PM   #145
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
Nice update Mike, have you noticed any charging issues with the smaller pulley?
I checked tonight and at a warm idle, I'm getting a steady 13.4v at the battery with the headlights on (stock 80A alternator). I think this is slightly lower than the last time I checked the voltage before swapping pulleys.

Took some better pics since I was able to give it a wash over the weekend.





Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 08-27-2018 at 09:32 PM..
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2018, 07:45 AM   #146
soclosenotnear
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: summerville, south carolina
Default

I dig those wheels. Nice car.
soclosenotnear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2018, 09:49 PM   #147
tbent142
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Hudson NY
Default

Beautiful car. Tastefully done
tbent142 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2018, 02:28 AM   #148
whatshouldido
Board Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Florida
Default dang

Don't post often but reading through that has defiantly been inspiring! Very detailed write up as well, some of the resources and links will be very useful for my 77 240, so thanks for that gathered info!

Just got a welder excited to move forward with plans for my 240+T!

Keep the fabing up, and hopefully your out trolling some other cars that may think the 240s a slouch!
whatshouldido is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2018, 06:49 AM   #149
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by soclosenotnear View Post
I dig those wheels. Nice car.
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbent142 View Post
Beautiful car. Tastefully done
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by whatshouldido View Post
Don't post often but reading through that has defiantly been inspiring! Very detailed write up as well, some of the resources and links will be very useful for my 77 240, so thanks for that gathered info!

Just got a welder excited to move forward with plans for my 240+T!

Keep the fabing up, and hopefully your out trolling some other cars that may think the 240s a slouch!
Thanks! Glad to contribute to the community.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2018, 10:26 AM   #150
SquareD
An Anomaly
 
SquareD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: The STL
Default

I'm still amazed that you were able to pull it back from the brink. Shows you want persistence and some elbow grease can do. Nice upgrades too. What a save, the car looks great!
__________________
1994 945ti | 15g @ 14psi, Turbosmart EBC, AEM Failsafe WB, 3"/2.5" exhaust, do88 intercooler, iPd cam, STS cam gear, Ostrich LH tune, sbabbs EZK chip, green giants, K&N, Yoshifab CCV/Can/Cap, iPd SS brake lines, TME, Eibach, BNE, Koni suspension, iPd sways, iPd panhard, Cherry Turbos upper/lower braces, forged BBS RG-Rs, Michelin Pilot SS, ecodes, V90 bits.
1985 744ti | 13.8 @ 100.5 mph - Sold after 20 years.
SquareD is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:02 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.