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Old 07-02-2018, 04:49 PM   #526
The Full Banana
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Looking good.

I'm dying to see some fresh plastic reservoirs in there.
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Old 07-02-2018, 04:58 PM   #527
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Looking good.

I'm dying to see some fresh plastic reservoirs in there.
You and me both. It's just hard to swallow $100 for a coolant expansion tank, and I can't even find the windshield washer reservoir.
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:26 PM   #528
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They're both still available from the dealer. Tasca sells them for 25% off list price which is a better price than I get as a wholesale customer from my local Volvo dealer. That's just under $110 for both reservoirs plus shipping or you can try to get your local dealer to match their price and pay no shipping.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...n-tank-1336684

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...servoi-1304149
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:27 PM   #529
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Thank you Ian. I didn't even know the part number for the washer reservoir. I'll have to buy some in the next month or so.
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Old 07-02-2018, 10:14 PM   #530
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It’s really starting to look clean!

I bought a cheap expansion tank and it leaked pretty quickly from a poor seam, then bought an OE tank. A tiny investment in the continued refinement..

Windshield washer bottle hides well in the trunk ;)
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Old 07-03-2018, 12:32 AM   #531
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It’s really starting to look clean!

I bought a cheap expansion tank and it leaked pretty quickly from a poor seam, then bought an OE tank. A tiny investment in the continued refinement..

Windshield washer bottle hides well in the trunk ;)
Oh, don't you worry, it's still plenty dirty. Haven't washed it since winter. It'll never be clean, but hopefully it will be fast.



But I am pretty proud of some of the little things I made, like this turbo brace





I can't put the washer in the trunk. The battery is already there and I don't want to do the work. I'll just get one from Tasca or something.
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:31 AM   #532
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I dont see that brace doing much for you. Typically when you have a tension - compression style turbo brace it is supposed to support the weight of the turbo so it would be a in vertical orientation. this only restricts against horizontal thermal related movement.
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:54 AM   #533
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What radiator is in the car? I can't stand my yellowed overflow, it's embarrassing
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:27 AM   #534
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I dont see that brace doing much for you. Typically when you have a tension - compression style turbo brace it is supposed to support the weight of the turbo so it would be a in vertical orientation. this only restricts against horizontal thermal related movement.
Right, and I agree with you. It's ideal to support the weight of the turbo vertically. However, I don't have any space for that. The turbo is about 1 cm from touching the underside of the hood as it is. When I was looking at making a brace, I couldn't move the turbo vertically, but I could move it horizontally. Now that motion is constrained, so when I move the turbo, the whole engine moves. It's not ideal, but I think it'll help.

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What radiator is in the car? I can't stand my yellowed overflow, it's embarrassing
do88. Pretty expensive, but buy once, cry once. I've had it for a good long while and have been happy with it.
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:37 AM   #535
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Right, and I agree with you. It's ideal to support the weight of the turbo vertically. However, I don't have any space for that. The turbo is about 1 cm from touching the underside of the hood as it is. When I was looking at making a brace, I couldn't move the turbo vertically, but I could move it horizontally. Now that motion is constrained, so when I move the turbo, the whole engine moves. It's not ideal, but I think it'll help.
What about from underneath?
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:41 AM   #536
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The hoses to the turbo are in the way, and there's no good mounting point on the block or head. I tried the threaded studs in the head that are for holding k jet fuel lines, but the turbo coolant line fittings were in the way. Also the turbine housing is pretty big, so that also gets in the way of mounting to the turbo flange on the manifold.

I think the turbo would move in an arc down and away from the flange on the head. So my idea was if I constrain horizontal motion, it will help with vertical motion a bit. I'd love to support the turbo from the top or bottom, but I just couldn't find the space so I came up with this.
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Old 07-03-2018, 01:14 PM   #537
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Weld some rebar to the turbine housing. Job done.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 07-04-2018, 03:23 PM   #538
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If this were a competent build thread, you'd be hearing about how the first start went. But it's not. Instead you're hearing about how much of an idiot I am by putting the head gasket on wrong and creating a coolant leak. Gotta order a new gasket and fix it.
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:27 PM   #539
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Originally Posted by t8fanning View Post
If this were a competent build thread, you'd be hearing about how the first start went. But it's not. Instead you're hearing about how much of an idiot I am by putting the head gasket on wrong and creating a coolant leak. Gotta order a new gasket and fix it.
Ha, well at least this thread is informative. One could even say “cautionary”.
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Old 07-05-2018, 04:49 PM   #540
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If this were a competent build thread, you'd be hearing about how the first start went. But it's not. Instead you're hearing about how much of an idiot I am by putting the head gasket on wrong and creating a coolant leak. Gotta order a new gasket and fix it.
Oh ****! I did that on a 1.8t once. **** sucks
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Old 07-05-2018, 05:13 PM   #541
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Damn! Did you put it on upside down or something?
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Old 07-06-2018, 06:23 PM   #542
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Oh ****! I did that on a 1.8t once. **** sucks
Lol. It definitely could be worse. It only took like an hour to pull the intake and exhaust stuff. Just gotta pull the timing belt now and it'll be quick.

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Damn! Did you put it on upside down or something?
No idea. I think I put it on backward (front to back), but I'll check and post a pic when I pull the head.
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:37 PM   #543
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The new head gasket showed up on Tuesday and a package from Ben came a bit earlier. My wife and baby are also out of town this week, so I made some good progress.

Engine is all together and full of coolant. I need to fill it with oil and do my first start. I'll do that this weekend and probably start the break in process. I did put the head gasket on backward the first time. This time I was a bit more careful. I added a breather to the mechanical fuel pump port on the block and re routed some of my catch can lines as well. I think I should probably redo my hot side intercooler piping. It works the way it is, but it's not ideal. Oh well, something to do in the future.

The front suspension is also all assembled. I had Ben modify my roll center correctors for ackerman and I set it to 5 degrees. I installed new tie rods that I shortened because I have been making due with stock length ones for too long. The coilovers are RSones with 12" 350 lb/in springs using ABS spindles, so my wheel speed sensor setup much nicer now. I also added luxe steer. Installing the suspension was easy enough, but I ran into the same problem Hackster did with the wheel bearings not fitting. I had to sand the spindle coating off. Annoying, but not a huge deal and I understand why it was like that.





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Old 07-20-2018, 08:45 PM   #544
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:47 PM   #545
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Looking so good. Best 8v in the country?
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Old 07-21-2018, 06:32 PM   #546
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Looking so good. Best 8v in the country?
Gotta be up there. Fine work op.

"Mediocre" pfft...haha

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Old 07-21-2018, 08:15 PM   #547
t8fanning
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Looking so good. Best 8v in the country?
Not even close.

So I finished everything and did the first step of my break in procedure. I ran it up to operating temp while varying the throttle constantly and then inspecting for leaks. I found no leaks. However, the car would not run without significant throttle. I'm pretty my crank timing is wrong and I may have an idle valve issue.

I really don't enjoy setting up the DSM CAS. It always takes me a couple hours to get it timed properly. Anyone have any good tips on how to get it right the first time? Right now it's "running" on a 0 degree trigger offset and the window is as gross polluter shows in the DSM setup thread. 0 degree offset is not ideal; it's supposed to be something between 90 and 120 degrees. Before I pulled the engine, I was using a 430 degree offset. I tried to align the trigger wheel in the same place as before, but it wasn't working.

I'm done for today. It was something like 100 degrees F. I'll have to mess with it tomorrow or something after I change the oil.

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Old 07-21-2018, 09:27 PM   #548
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Looking so good. Best 8v in the country?
At the rate the redblocks are being scrapped for LS conversions, he's climbing the list quickly!

Enjoying the progress..... don't lose faith in the banger. They can be a bit temperamental when they are high output configured. I've forgotten what EMS you have in this car, is it MS3Pro or other? Looking forward to some performance data from your upgrades.
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:31 PM   #549
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I'm still pretty attached to this engine. I like that it's a more unique way of making power. I'll only swap to a 2JZ if I do some catastrophic damage to the engine. I'm not really interested in an LS.

It's MS3Pro.
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Old 07-21-2018, 10:40 PM   #550
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How much longer those commandos gonna be around?
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