home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-02-2018, 01:53 PM   #26
DocterHow
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Davenport, IA
Default

Thanks for the suggestion, but I will try to grind a little off the header first as I want to keep a collapsible steering column.
DocterHow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2018, 01:59 PM   #27
JohnMc
PV Abuser
 
JohnMc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
Default

That isn't a collapsible column, it's just there to add a little NVH cushioning.

The collapsing part is from the breakable aluminum u-joint s and the out-of-alignment angles on the shaft.

That's my take on it after looking at it, at least.
__________________
'63 PV Rat Rod
'93 245 16VT Classic #1141
JohnMc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2018, 02:04 PM   #28
PeaceEngineered
Sarcastic Optimist
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Evanston, IL
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DocterHow View Post
Thanks for the suggestion, but I will try to grind a little off the header first as I want to keep a collapsible steering column.
This has been covered in a few thread's, but that is an NVH mitigation piece. The collapsible part is further up. But understand. I left mine as from the factory.
__________________
2006 V70R a turbo finally!
1989 245 'Angry Moose' 5.0 GT-40 with T5 transmission.
2009 S80 Interim Road Trip Car
PeaceEngineered is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2018, 02:04 PM   #29
240wagonguy
Board Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Weare, NH
Default

look under the dashboard. That's where you'll find the collapsible part.
__________________
1985 740GLE sedan winter beater Cali car.
240wagonguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2018, 05:11 PM   #30
Texas240
Prius Owner
 
Texas240's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DocterHow View Post
Thanks for the suggestion, but I will try to grind a little off the header first as I want to keep a collapsible steering column.
Don't bother. I tried that at first and and realized that if grinder any farther then I did I would of grinded all the way through. I ended up moving the steering rack over to the drivers side an inch then I bought that column and all is good.
__________________
93 245 LS Engine Swap Project
Texas240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2018, 05:42 PM   #31
DocterHow
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Davenport, IA
Default

After taking another look at where the shaft is touching, I just went ahead and ordered the Coleman Racing steering shaft. Thanks to all of you who recommended that piece, and informed me that the OEM shaft is not the collapsible piece.
DocterHow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2018, 04:03 PM   #32
DocterHow
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Davenport, IA
Default

Progress has been slow the past few days due to heat and humidity. But, I got the dash pulled out and all of the engine bay wiring was pulled through the firewall. I need to go through the wiring and strip out all of the engine related stuff. I'll probably add a connector to the under dash wiring for main power and switched ignition to the LS ecu.



When I got the dash out, I found out why my windshield wipers didn't work on the car, a previous owner removed the passenger side cam and linkage arm.



This heat has made my dad and I consider sticking modern AC into the car, so we ordered a vintage air kit (Gen 2 Compac) to replace the factory heater/ac/blower motor. The unit is almost the exact same size as the Classic Auto Air unit that a few other V8 swaps have used, but is cheaper. Also got a JEGS radiator, Energy Suspension trans mount, and a few other miscellaneous parts ordered.
DocterHow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2018, 09:37 PM   #33
DocterHow
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Davenport, IA
Default

Another dash/wiring update: The blower motor/heater core is out, and the removal of all the extra wiring is 99% complete.



I have removed the AC/blower motor relay, overdrive relay, clutch fan relay, fuel pump relay, ecu connectors, constant idle test connectors, and a bunch of wires for them. I also removed the 2 fuses for the fuel pumps and the fuse for the blower motor, as these will be replaced with new fuses and relays. The only thing I still need to figure out after looking through wiring diagrams, is a pinout of this grey 8 pin connector shown below. This is one of the two firewall connectors to the engine (the other of which was connected entirely to the ecu connectors). I found a pinout for a later model 240, but the wire colors are different. If anyone can help, that would be much appreciated.

DocterHow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2018, 10:21 PM   #34
MoCounselor
Board Member
 
MoCounselor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Midwest, USA
Default

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/v...20Diagrams.pdf

That's for the '82 model year. I found a plug on the diagrams, page 13 if it's a b23e, that looks like it might be it, assuming it was in the engine bay and near the center top of the firewall.
MoCounselor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2018, 10:38 PM   #35
DocterHow
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Davenport, IA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoCounselor View Post
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/v...20Diagrams.pdf

That's for the '82 model year. I found a plug on the diagrams, page 13 if it's a b23e, that looks like it might be it, assuming it was in the engine bay and near the center top of the firewall.
That's definitely the right plug, but my car originally had a b21f in it. I've been basing most of my wiring off that manual you linked, and I can't find that plug on the b21f wiring.
DocterHow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2018, 09:25 AM   #36
Uncleknucklez
bruspeed
 
Uncleknucklez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DocterHow View Post
That's definitely the right plug, but my car originally had a b21f in it. I've been basing most of my wiring off that manual you linked, and I can't find that plug on the b21f wiring.
My gut tells me that plug is for the gauges and such, should be wiring for the alt exciter wiring, and the oil pressure sensor?
__________________
1980 242 Turbo
2004 V70R

Uncleknucklez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2018, 07:22 PM   #37
DocterHow
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Davenport, IA
Default

I finally got the transmission to bolt into the car, as it was previously sitting on a jackstand. To get the trans bolted in, I modified the factory cross member. The center section was cut out and 2 pieces of angled steel were welded in. Sandwiched between the cross member and the transmission is an Energy Suspension 3.1108G trans mount. Now, I just need to clean up the welds and send the cross member off to get powder coated.



Once that was squared away, I could pull the engine and transmission out and get to work on the engine bay. The first task was to clean up the battery tray, but the more I wire wheeled the tray, the more rust I found. I cut out the worst of it and will need to work on patching it back up. I also had my dad weld in a few bolt holes that are no longer necessary.



Due to unforeseen rust, I picked up a trunk mount battery kit. A 200 amp fuse, terminal covers, and a new distribution block were added to complement the kit.



I decided to mount the battery in the passenger side "butt cheek". 4 rivnuts were added along with a pair of steel L brackets to support the battery.



I mounted the fuse on the plastic filler neck cover and added a wire post-fuse for the fuel pump relay that I will move to the trunk. The rest of the cable was run through a hole in the bottom side of the trunk/back seat divider.



I had to enlarge the hole a little so I could add a rubber grommet to protect the wire.



I need a new battery as the current battery is a non-vented, wet cell battery. Also, my trunk mount isn't NHRA legal because I do not have a cut off switch.
DocterHow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 09:28 PM   #38
M.H. Yount
Board Member
 
M.H. Yount's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Default

DocHow - I've got an 82 with an LS3 in it, Classic Auto Air A/C, battery in the passenger side butt cheek, manual transmission. I've got all the idiot lights and gauges working correctly - using the Lamda Sond light as the CEL. Completed it in the fall of '16. If I can help reach out to me via PM.

Confirm - the steering shaft is rubberized for NVH reduction - the rack is solid mounted so they had to have something to reduce noise/vibration. My car had a Ford 5.0L in it for 19 years prior to the LS. That gray 8-wire plug on mine had only 4 of the 8 slots with wire in them on the engine/Ford side of that plug...on the chassis/Volvo side my notes on wire color match your picture above perfectly. I did away with that plug completely during this swap and re-wired everything directly.

The 4 slots that were connected to something on mine matched up this way --- the yellow wire with blue stripe went to the Ford starter relay trigger connection...this fired the starter over when the ignition switch was turned to 'start'. The black wire went to the idiot light side of the oil pressure sender/sensor. The yellow wire went to the Volvo coolant temp gauge sender. The red wire went to one of the pins on the alternator -- I believe it was connected to the alternator light in the car and used to energize the alt on startup - but I never confirmed that as I had to completely alter that circuit to get a working alt light with the LS3/E38 ecu.

Keep in mind - since mine had a 5.0L in it before the LS, it's possible that those wire colors I identified above had been moved around. But since your plug matched up wire color-wise with mine, perhaps nobody moved anything on mine. On mine the other 3 wires - blue, green and orange/brown (was hard to tell the color on mine) weren't connected to anything on the engine side of the plug, so I removed them as a part of this conversion. I did a TON of wire tracing as part of the conversion -- the original Volvo ECU was still on the passenger side along with the Mustang computer. I removed every wire that wasn't connected to something. Did most of my tracing with a small 9V battery (think smoke detector) and a 12V test light. Plenty of juice to confirm continuity but not enough to hurt anything if I put voltage to something that was grounded or didn't react well to 12V+ from a big battery.

Hope that helps.
__________________
'82 242 6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 CrossTrek

Last edited by M.H. Yount; 07-16-2018 at 09:36 PM..
M.H. Yount is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 11:32 PM   #39
Sgt Savage
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Seattle
Default

Curious to see your solution for your shifter situation.
Sgt Savage is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:29 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.