home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
Old 02-10-2010, 10:58 PM   #1
Board Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Oregon
Default b230ft in 145i Build thread

To put this -------- in this.

Ok. So after many people have asked me to make a build thread on this so it can be EZ- to read and wont become fragmented in the showroom as i cover only one section at a time.

I will update this first post so every thing that follows will be comments only.

It all started after the 744 TIC i bought for 250 USD 5 months prior for a fun project had blown a heater core hose. It got slightly over heated and still ran but i fig well time to do a complete overhaul.

B230ft Long block machine shop work $4050.00

Ill save you the 5 page 10pt font list and give you the short highlight version
JE Custom made pistons for the double oversize +1/4 after align and hone.
1/3 Oversize exhaust valves.
1/25th ish oversize intake valves .
custom valve springs.
rods sized and hung for the Balanced 4 cyl
Used volvo Crank. Mine was wore out.
MLS metal head gasket. make up for the deck.
Put in ARP head studs
Put in ARP mains studs (this did cause problem with oil pump line)
an machined for squirters.

Other specs
3in AMM
55lb/hr delphi injectors
15g hot side turbo with 13c cold side machined out to a 15g to hold 15g wheel.
Chips for EZK and ECU

Here are some photos of the engine build.

Here is the oil pipe i had made to go over the main studs

So here it is all ready minus the turbo.

So while waiting on the turbo i start thinking (with help of TB-ers) do i relly want to put it back in the 1990 744. So i tossed the 744 when i found the 145i with ipd sway bars and new shocks and a blown b20b

So i yank this sucker out and then slowly put her back together.

So fist i had to figure out the mounts.

I noticed that the top bolt hole for the b20b mounts was only 2mm off from this hole on the b230ft.

There is a hole on the other side of the b230ft that also is 2mm off in placement compared to the b20b.

time to get fabbing. Now im ok with the gas welder. But not sure my welding skills would make a strong enough weld to be trusted for holding the weight of the block so i did this.

here is the other side. I hacked of a bit of the retaining bracket to the air intake but i think it will be fine.

Here it is going in the bay for the first time.

Here is the first test fit with 140 engine mounts.

Now I did have to use the b20b oil pan to fit this thing in. The pan fits after cutting the oil pump pickup and fabbing a screen onto the cut pipe. Make sure you measure 2-3X before you cut it. After that the pan went right on no problem.

Next i decided to try using 240 mounts as the studs on them are off set allotting me more wiggle room. This proved to work best.

After putting the 240 motor mounts in every thing aligned better. Now i cut the firewall for the distributor because I kept trying to find a way to get the air intake to fit past the break booster. The block mounted distributor kept getting in the way of the intake pipe routing. ERRR. Well after i got it in i decided to fix the air intake problem by cutting a place on top and paying to have it tig welded. Turns out in the end i could have used the block mounted distributor but its not going to be too hard to seal up the fire wall any way.

So now that it is in time to do the fly wheel. The b230ft was mated to an automatic so i had to source a fly wheel for the manual swap. I went with the RSI lightened one. As for the pressure plate and clutch i went with the 140 version.

So time to put the tranny on. The m40 fit up to the b230. You have to drill out the locating pin holes to metric as the pins on the block are metric and the two holes in the bell housing are standard. Also had to notch the top of the bell housing for the Crank sensor.

Alternator did require some deep thinking. As you can see when you mount the b230ft upright there is clearance issues with mounting it on the right side.

Even if you mount it on the bottom left with a bracket for a 240 it would still hit the side of the wheel well.

Solution. I got a Denzo style alt out of a 3 cyl daihatsu. Its light and still puts out 45 amps. So if you plan on having a big radio system you'll have to find a better way.

I fabbed up a bracket and it fit perfect.

Before i continued with closing up the front i decided to tackle the clutch cable. Because it was an automatic i made sure to have the pedal assembly from a manual. Problem was it was missing the pedal- return- spring. Well they don't make them any more so had to fab one up

the break pedal is smaller foot pad on the manual but the top of it is the same size on the manual. so I was able to use all the nylon bushings and the bolt that holds it in. As for the clutch pedal i just cut a spring and then got the vice-grips out and the torch and heat, bend then quench. then heat and quench a few more times after the test fit. Cooling the metal by heating it to just before it glows and then dunking it in water make it keep its shape. then put in oven on broil after oven hits 500deg turn it to 300 wait 30 min then 150 deg wait 30 min then turn it off and let cool for 2 hrs. this really helps lock it in place.
Had to get a bolt and lock nut and some bushings but all worked out.

no photos of the cable or pedal box going in but if ya cant do that on your own with out photos i suggest you not try this swap until after ya have a feel for stuff like that.

The radiator was tricky. First i tried to fit the b20b one but the fan hit it. so i knew i needed to have it on the other side of the radiator cross brace. I cut the metal lip off the front of the support and ground it flat. While in there i ground out the hole on the left so i would have room for the seal for the hose and the hose to the oil cooler opened up. you don't want to be grinding around a radiator if you don't have to.

here is a shot of the modified b230 radiator with the fluid return moved up so it will clear the cross member.

Test fitting the fan shroud fan and oil cooler.

Before i tied in the radiator i needed to fit the IC. This is a tight fit!

here is some more fitting before the IC and radiator goes in. Ive cut out the area for them to fit.

you will have no room. it will push the bottom grill out 3 mm. Only way around this is to use a after market IC. I went with the volvo one because i spent so much time plunging its leeks and cleaning it out and painting it. So it became a mission to make it fit

You have to cut out the front a bit for the radiator and the IC to fit through the bottom. Yes you loose a bit of cooling but i have been looking for a later front grill with the slats to solve this problem (UPDATE: i have a green one in OK shape but im not putting it on till im ready to start striping it for the paint and body restoration)

So sealed up the heater core control valve.

Look like the bracket has to go.

Yes the fan shroud fits. Had to trim the bottom a bit but cutting plastic is EZ. Also had to cut out some room for the radiator hose.

Due to 50 IMG rule Build i continued below.

Last edited by meeki007; 03-14-2014 at 05:37 PM..
meeki007 is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:41 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.