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Another 940 Turbo Pinging

1slo9_4_oh

New member
Joined
Sep 24, 2013
Location
Orlando
First off.

1995 940 Turbo, aw71L 65k miles and is a egr equipped model.

So I have been searching around and came across a few post with similar issues but with no definitive answer on what was the culprit and how it was solved.. ie; what connections did you grease that fixed your problem, what injectors or ecu/ezk that were swapped in... I've done so much that in running out of options.

Maf, fpr, Engine Coolant temp sensor, crank angle sensor, +1 colder ngk plugs and wires, tightened pre turbo hose. Emptied intercooler, Replaced all vacuum lines. New injectors with new orings and seals. I run 93 octane and even added vp race fuel.

Mind you my car runs amazing now but if i try to get into boost I start pinging. (At around 2700-3krpm) All I have is 2.5 straight back and a cone filter. Running stock boost..

95 940t Egr

I will say my egr vacuum line is broken at the nipple and I have a fuel filter and thermostat that I will be replacing today if the weather holds up after work.
 
Last edited:
16t in sig.

What happens if you turn down your boost?

Edit. It says 16t at 16psi in sig, but "stock boost" in post.

What's your fuel setup? Without trying to insult anyone... what makes you think it's pinging? Sometimes people mistake pings or det with spark blowout... or some other odd mysterious problem.

Just want to be sure everyone is on the same page to offer best advice.
 
In my second post I wrote that my sig is for my old car. Not my 940 I currently own. Tb wo t let me edit and delete it lmao.

16t in sig.

What happens if you turn down your boost?

Edit. It says 16t at 16psi in sig, but "stock boost" in post.

What's your fuel setup? Without trying to insult anyone... what makes you think it's pinging? Sometimes people mistake pings or det with spark blowout... or some other odd mysterious problem.

Just want to be sure everyone is on the same page to offer best advice.
 
On mine, if I ease into boost, my AFRs will lower normally down to 12 and 11s as I get close to full throttle. If I immediately go WOT, the AFRs will stay at 14 for a second before they lower down. I also hear pinging during this time. I have read more than one thread about LH 2.4 being slow to react with the 13C turbo because if how quickly it spools. Haven't found any solid fixes for it yet.
 
My issue is being like a third of the throttle into boost, at 2500 and the pinging starts.. ive read the same aswell.. ill upload a vid soon enough

On mine, if I ease into boost, my AFRs will lower normally down to 12 and 11s as I get close to full throttle. If I immediately go WOT, the AFRs will stay at 14 for a second before they lower down. I also hear pinging during this time. I have read more than one thread about LH 2.4 being slow to react with the 13C turbo because if how quickly it spools. Haven't found any solid fixes for it yet.
 
Then wouldn't the solution be to get a slower spooling turbo (bigger turbo) haha...

That's pretty strange to hear though. Maybe TLAO could chime in with his thoughts regarding the stock maps?
 
Why do people install those stupid cone filters? I've seen those in a few cars, in most cases they don't flow any better than the stock airbox, most don't filter anywhere near as well and without careful fabrication they suck in hot air from the engine compartment. The stock Volvo airbox and paper filter are huge and flow really well, easily good for 300+ HP.
 
Why do people install those stupid cone filters? I've seen those in a few cars, in most cases they don't flow any better than the stock airbox, most don't filter anywhere near as well and without careful fabrication they suck in hot air from the engine compartment. The stock Volvo airbox and paper filter are huge and flow really well, easily good for 300+ HP.

You are incorrect on this. The stock airbox may be able to support x-flow, but it's designed to muffle sound. There are plenty of dyno numbers (especially on turbo cars, not that K&N crap) that show more power from them.

BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY... those of us running +T can't use stock airbox because we're switching sides for air intake.
 
The stock airbox is EASILY modded to handle more inlet flow, but it also serves to straight/smooth the flow into the AMM. I had a lot of weirdness when I was running a cone filter, depending if I had an elbow or not, etc. on the filter. Stock airbox actually gave me better response, still easily enough to support my setup, though I do need to put a vacuum gauge on the inlet side, just to see what it does under WOT.
 
The stock airbox is EASILY modded to handle more inlet flow, but it also serves to straight/smooth the flow into the AMM. I had a lot of weirdness when I was running a cone filter, depending if I had an elbow or not, etc. on the filter. Stock airbox actually gave me better response, still easily enough to support my setup, though I do need to put a vacuum gauge on the inlet side, just to see what it does under WOT.

On the Evos they basically won't run without a heavy HEAVY tune if you remove the accordion pipe... which is odd.
 
Ok so if you are getting knock / ping at the stock boost (6-8psi) on 93 octane fuel then you have something major wrong.

First thing to check would be timing belt and cam timing and the distributor. If the timing is off you will get ping from being way to advanced.

another thing that would cause ping could be a very worn out engine. If the rings are worn and you are getting a lot of blow by it could be in turn lowering the octane of the fuel causing the knock. Along these same lines your valve stem seals can be leaking oil into the CC causing this issue also.

Another thing to check is fuel pressure, what is the fuel pressure at idle? what is the fuel pressure under load? A weak or dying fuel pump (a 1995 should only have one intank) will cause knock at all boosts because to very lean afr's. In saying that what are the afr's?

If you are running stock injectors have your tired another set? while I doubt the entire set could be bad there might be one or two that is not flowing correctly.

Either way I would go right into checking the timing and fuel pump/pressure as that very well might be root cause of all of these issues.


Also since you mention EGR that means that you have cali emissions car. If the EGR is malfunctioing it could be recirculating to much exhaust gas at the wrong time into the engine which would also cause knock. Typically EGR can reduce the CC temps by cooling the mixture by passing the correct amount of exhaust gas and already burned fuel into the mixture. But when this system fails it can also cause knock under load.

Sounds like you need to spend some time on the brickboard 700/900 FAQ and test out a few things.
 
Appreciate the help brotha. I'm on a spare set of green injectors thay have new caps and seals. . Tomorrow I'll be throwing in a new fuel filter and then going from there. If I reset the ecu the car drives awesome. As soon as I get above 2500/3k I get very faint pinging. Or atleast thats what i think it is... ill probably block off egr tomorrow aswell..
 
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