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Old 05-17-2014, 12:11 AM   #226
Hank Scorpio
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Progress!!

Adapter back from Mueller! Amazing job, can't thank him enough!


Bolting it up!

BOOM, In the car!






Totally thrilled with the LMR mounts. They fit perfect. Looks like the position is as far as forward as you can get with the crossmember. Not sure how Jacob's mounts position but I'm sure it's about the same.


The Trans is about an inch to inch and a half forward of the ideal spot but who cares, just cut the hole forward.


YoshiFab cross member. Wanted the most amount of adjustment I could get. I might have to open one of the slots slightly but 3 out of 4 bolts are in. Hell, good enough. LOL

View from underneath


Going to have plenty of clearance on the exhaust side of the turbo and should be fine for the compressor housing.

So excited! OK, now to start working on the rear end, core support, intercooler and exhaust. Basically anything that'll require welding in, to, against the car.
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Old 05-17-2014, 01:31 AM   #227
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Hell, you're almost there. You can have it running by the end of the month! lol

Looks like it really does fit in there nicely!

I might suggest an SN95 shift lever as it's got a nice kick-back on it to allow you room to move your hand without hitting the center stack. A little heat to straighten the bend so it clears the seat and it fits really nicely, nice and low. That with a hurst or tri-ax and you're set. Looked like the vertical height on that shifter setup is right where mine ended up on the 140 as well.
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Old 05-17-2014, 03:26 AM   #228
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That must be a huge motivation booster to see the engine and trans in the bay. Looks good!

The shifter ended up in almost the exact same spot on my old car. Enlarging the window a bit was all it took.

You should get in on the Buchka Engineering stainless + delrin shifter train.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...hoto%25201.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...hoto%25203.JPG
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:36 AM   #229
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Looks really good!:D

Where did you buy that exhaust manifold, does it come for 6cylinder also?
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:18 AM   #230
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LOL Gary, yep running in a month! A month and two years probably lol

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Originally Posted by Karl Buchka View Post
That must be a huge motivation booster to see the engine and trans in the bay. Looks good!

The shifter ended up in almost the exact same spot on my old car. Enlarging the window a bit was all it took.

You should get in on the Buchka Engineering stainless + delrin shifter train.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...hoto%25201.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...hoto%25203.JPG
Yep. I'll be bugging you about that shifter. Actually I will want some height like yours,min planning on designing a console of some sort. I want real fawking cup holders!

It's a huge motivator to get the motor in the car! The nice thing is while I already have to start building and gearing up for the next round of trade shows end of the year, it won't be to insane till later this year. I'll get to enjoy a few months where I'll have some time to work on it.

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Looks really good!:D

Where did you buy that exhaust manifold, does it come for 6cylinder also?
Thanks! It's www.atpturbo.com 's 850 exhaust manifold. I wish they did a 6 cylinder version if they did I'd totally be running a t6 instead!
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Old 05-17-2014, 10:46 AM   #231
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Looking really good
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:00 AM   #232
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I want real fawking cup holders!


Half way. Well done!
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:34 AM   #233
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Thanks Rada!!

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Half way. Well done!
Probably 10% done LOL. Really, this is mostly just to do anything welding/mockup related. Once all the things I'll need to weld, drill holes for or mount is figured out then it all comes apart again to start doing the painting stages.

Plus it's a good dry run for practicing how to get the motor in with out buggering the firewall. I think when I do it post paint, I'm going to leave the cross member out so the motor can go in at a flat angle. Then bring the cross member back up to it. That big 960 pan is a tough one to position into place with out banging the firewall.
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:43 AM   #234
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Plus it's a good dry run for practicing how to get the motor in with out buggering the firewall.
The engine sits very close to the firewall, maybe to close to mount the gearbox. I damaged the firewall paint already. Now using a piece of rubber mat at the back of the engine for protection.
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:52 AM   #235
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Quote:
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The engine sits very close to the firewall, maybe to close to mount the gearbox. I damaged the firewall paint already. Now using a piece of rubber mat at the back of the engine for protection.
That was exactly my thoughts. I'll either use some of the thick rubber pads I keep on my work benches (for doing guitars) or use a moving blanket.

I ended up pulling the motor mounts off the crossmember and that made all the difference. (I have one of those load levelers for the engine puller so I could balance the motor and followed by using a jack under the transmission let it go in pretty flat).
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:17 PM   #236
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Could you just put the engine in from the bottom?
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Old 05-17-2014, 01:53 PM   #237
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Quote:
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Could you just put the engine in from the bottom?
If I had a lift, absolutely.

Honestly, I'll just loosen the crossmember to drop it an inch or two and leave the mounts hooked to the engine (loose from the crossmember). That's more than enough.
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Old 05-17-2014, 02:31 PM   #238
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Looks awesome, the five cylinder is right at home there.

Bit of an odd question- do you think that the ATP manifold and your turbo would work/clear if this was a RHD car?

Not that I'm going to be doing anything like this anytime soon, but it's a (very) long term plan!
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:49 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dammit View Post
Looks awesome, the five cylinder is right at home there.

Bit of an odd question- do you think that the ATP manifold and your turbo would work/clear if this was a RHD car?

Not that I'm going to be doing anything like this anytime soon, but it's a (very) long term plan!
I don't know, honestly I'd put it at less than 50% odds. I think using the OEM manifold puts the turbo further rearwards which might improve steering shaft room.

There's a thread on here with a T5 in LHD and it looks like it worked well.
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:47 AM   #240
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Did you have the ATP manifold in your parts bin from ages ago? I remember some issues fitting that in the FWD cars, looks like it'll do quite well on there! The WG placement is going to look pimptastic!
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:59 PM   #241
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Quote:
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Did you have the ATP manifold in your parts bin from ages ago? I remember some issues fitting that in the FWD cars, looks like it'll do quite well on there! The WG placement is going to look pimptastic!
Nope I bought it specific for this car. I think in FWD it works sort of. LOL

Planning on running the internal gate still I think. Looks like I have about 7" of room from the back of the exhaust housing to the firewall. Should be plenty of room to work with what I need.
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:21 PM   #242
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Went to get sheetmetal, came home with this instead






Couldn't be more thrilled. EXACTLY the front and rear seats I wanted. The back is going to take a little work but looks more than do able. The S40/V50 rear seat is just a smidge wider well to well than the 245 is. I may need to have an upholstery shop open them up for me so I can trim up the internal sheet metal a bit. Power on both front seats too :D
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:58 PM   #243
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Like it was meant be. That looks amazing.
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:08 PM   #244
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Like it was meant be. That looks amazing.
Sure look the part. Thats why I wanted this particular set of seats instead of leather, for some reason they just look right to me with the cloth and gold stitching.

Designing up the seat adapters right now. Honestly, I just cut off the excess brackets on the front portion and used one of the 240 mounting points (the seats are about 2.5" wider C-C on than a 240). I actually really like that position in one regard because it improves "shoulder to shoulder" room but the reality is, I think when I add doors it would be to close to the outside.

So I drew these up



Should do the job just fine. Bolts right to the seat rails, just need to hack the vertical brackets off the old seats (did I save those? I can't remember... )
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:24 PM   #245
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What will hold the rear seat in place?
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:28 PM   #246
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Im not sure how big/ tall you are but I'd be interested in finding a set myself. Im a 6'2 175lb dude and have a hard enough time finding a good amount of car seats comfy under my knees and lower back.

How do these compare when it comes to longer road trips in the comfy area?
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:46 PM   #247
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Quote:
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Im not sure how big/ tall you are but I'd be interested in finding a set myself. Im a 6'2 175lb dude and have a hard enough time finding a good amount of car seats comfy under my knees and lower back.

How do these compare when it comes to longer road trips in the comfy area?
Well I have a 2008 C30 and a 2006 V50... there was a reason I wanted THESE seats Extremely comfortable.

I think you'll be able to get them plenty far back and I'm 5'8" 265lbs so more wide than tall. They will go pretty damn close to the floor but to get any lower you'd probably have to mod the floor (which had crossed my mind).

Honestly, I need to figure out what's power on the harness (and not accidentally set of an airbag!) and move the seat as far back and low as I can get it before finalizing my adapters.

I doubt you'd have a problem at 6'2" though.
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Old 06-01-2014, 12:14 AM   #248
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Definitely curious to see how those seats fit in, and if they sit lower than the seats in the 140 I may be interested in swapping those in, as the height on the 240 seats is a bit much.

Hell of a score though!
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Old 06-01-2014, 12:39 AM   #249
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Try and finda Chevy t5 back half, it moves the shifter back almost 2 inches.

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Old 06-01-2014, 12:41 AM   #250
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Try and finda Chevy t5 back half, it moves the shifter back almost 2 inches.

That thought has crossed my mind, but 2" might be too much. Honestly, a little sheet metal trimming and I'll be fine.
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