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Old 06-22-2015, 04:26 PM   #226
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Hey now, I don't go tearing engines out because the TC bolts come loose
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:36 PM   #227
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Hey now, I don't go tearing engines out because the TC bolts come loose
Hey, I WANTED to be without my nice 240 for 3 weeks. Psh.
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:31 AM   #228
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Alignment is off, suddenly. Weird.
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:04 AM   #229
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Alignment is off, suddenly. Weird.
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:11 AM   #230
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:12 AM   #231
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:18 PM   #232
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Drove the stupid thing to work on the highway. It just loves accelerating above 40 mph. It also loves it when it's not freaking 95 degrees outside.
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Old 07-10-2015, 04:27 PM   #233
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where did you find the intake tube ? (air filter to turbo)
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Old 07-10-2015, 04:47 PM   #234
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I made it. 3" 45° bend from Columbia River Mandrel Bending cut to size with a 1" weld-on nipple from ATP turbo for the CBV. Haven't bothered with a PCV nipple because my current solution is ****.
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:58 PM   #235
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Set the wastegate actuator rod to zero preload and took out the MBC. Still goes to 10 psi at the top of first and 12 psi at the top of 2nd. Ugh. Hope I can pick up some midrange with the MBC While keeping creep at bay. So far it's kind of laggy...
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:05 PM   #236
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It's probably laggy because at zero preload you are bleeding off exhaust out the wastegate before full boost hits.
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:33 PM   #237
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Oh yes definitely. At the same time I'm still experiencing some creep. I was expecting this wastegate to be much better at controlling boost I'll tighten it back up and see how I like it.
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:52 PM   #238
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Where are you tapping in to get boost signal for your manual boost controller? The longer the hose, the more creep you will see usually.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:10 PM   #239
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It's right above the coupling at the outlet of the turbo now. Made it as short as possible.
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Old 07-13-2015, 11:54 PM   #240
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I think this is a sign that you need to recalibrate for 12 psi. If you don't want to do that, you can start porting the wastegate housing.

All of the symptoms and behavior you mentioned indicate that the wastegate is choking with the setup you have. If it's opening early then the creep is due to the wastegate port not being able to flow enough exhaust gas to regulate turbo speed below the 12 psi level.
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Old 07-14-2015, 12:56 AM   #241
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Figured that may be the case...been avoiding thinking about it as Currently the primary reason to keep boost down is engine management. May not be an issue soon enough. At any rate, if ai find downtime and an excuse I may just do that.
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:05 PM   #242
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Found the sweet spot some more. Cranked down the MBC a little more and the turbo now feels nice and responsive. Car as a whole seems much less happy when the ambient temperature climbs past 85 degrees and it's sitting in traffic a whole bunch, which is fair enough.

Now I'm turning my attention to the PCV system. I have found that my Greddy catch can is not doing all that great of a job at separating oil and air and is just acting as a canister of sorts that accumulates a bunch of milkshake ( it worked much better with the valve cover port but that's not really realistic anymore. Currently I have it venting to atmosphere which has several advantages in terms of keeping the engine from detonating but I'm polluting much more as a result. The challenge with this early style block is that I only have a single 1" nipple coming out of where the oil separator box would rest in a later model block.

Toby Edelman suggests running an exhaust venturi port to have my crank case run as a negative pressure system. I like that idea, just don't know how effective it is.

What say you, TB? I want to convert to a negative crankcase ventilation system. How can I go about it?
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:30 PM   #243
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Ordering a pro-vent and adding a nipple to the valve cover.

Parents are out of town for a month so I'm making use of the offending A4 as my runabout while the 242 squats in their garage on stands, leaking oil.

Taking the opportunity to do some work. Putting it here to refer to later
-passenger side poly engine mount with oil shield
-extension hose and adapter for oil pressure sender plus extra bit of wiring
-ported wastegate hole ~1mm and deshrouded a whole bunch (now that Inlook at it, I'm not surprised that creep was an issue. Looks way better now)
-tightening up rear suspension. There is something clunky out back
-240T oil cooler and Summit Racing filter relocation kit with a gigantic Royal Purple filter. Cooler itself does not fit the stock location so it will probably end up residing under the radiator support
-FRONT MUDFLAPS ARE GOING IN!!!
-fix horn wire
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:54 AM   #244
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Make sure you wreck the Audi and then deny all accusations.
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Old 08-05-2015, 02:19 PM   #245
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-ported wastegate hole ~1mm and deshrouded a whole bunch (now that Inlook at it, I'm not surprised that creep was an issue. Looks way better now)
Good deal. Hope that works out for you. Keep in mind: the boost pressure you want to run with a particular turbo setup is inversely proportional to the wastegate flow capacity needed. Lower boost --> larger wastegate, since you are bypassing more flow around the turbine to reduce turbo speed. Might seem a bit counterintuitive at first, and easy to forget that particular relationship when you're playing with tuning.
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Old 08-05-2015, 03:25 PM   #246
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For sure. I focused more on smoothing the path for the exhaust to flow into the wastegate. Before 1/3 was covered, forcing a lot of the gases to do a couple 90 degree turns. Should be good for moderate flow.










On the other hand I found some light foreign object damage on the leading edge of some of the leading edges of the compressor wheel vanes. No idea as to how they may have gotten there...unsure as to whether I should put a new compressor wheel in there or not...





What say you, o His Duderness? Is it safe to run or do I keep the thing off the road for another week while I get a new wheel installed?
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Old 08-05-2015, 03:38 PM   #247
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Leave it
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Old 08-07-2015, 01:52 PM   #248
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Wheel damage looks pretty minor. You could clean it up with a sharpening stone or emery cloth or other very fine abrasive. I'd leave it for now, but make absolutely sure you determine the cause. If your air filter is dirty or coming apart, or there's some junk in the intake tube, you need to rectify that before it happens again.

Where would you get a replacement compressor wheel, and who would VSR balance the CHRA?
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Old 08-07-2015, 01:53 PM   #249
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compressor wheel vanes
Also, those are blades
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Old 08-07-2015, 01:57 PM   #250
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Wheel damage looks pretty minor. You could clean it up with a sharpening stone or emery cloth or other very fine abrasive. I'd leave it for now, but make absolutely sure you determine the cause. If your air filter is dirty or coming apart, or there's some junk in the intake tube, you need to rectify that before it happens again.

Where would you get a replacement compressor wheel, and who would VSR balance the CHRA?
Replacement wheel from ATP and the rebalance would be done at Diesel Fuel Injection Service, around the corner from ex-RSI. I'll leave it until I get a replacement DD/a need for a rebuild becomes apparent, whichever comes first.

I'll just clean it up and run it.

I did see that there were one or two tiny chips left over from when the intake tube was put together. I'll make damn sure that it's squeaky clean (Thought it was already, but I digress).
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