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Old 12-23-2018, 07:22 AM   #1
Svenska_Monokrom
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Default Ebay Alternators?

Hey guys, So ive been in the market for a decent alternator upgrade/replacement and came across this interesting ad on ebay for a 140 amp (Bosch?) alternator for late model 240's but were unsure if something like this ever actually existed. It does say it is remanufactured so id guess that means it had to exist from the factory at some point but that leads us to question the legitemacy of these ads in general.

If these ads are legit, thats a pretty good deal for a decent alternator but $175 seems a bit iffy for a alternator that claims its 140/160 amp but happens to look like the big 80 amp alternator that at least my 1986 245 came with.

I guess I can say im inexperienced when it comes to these alternators and im hoping someone can shed alittle light on this.

ps not sure if this is considered performance/modification or maintenence/non-performance.

140 Amp
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Alter...S!-1:rk:1:pf:0

160 Amp
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Alter...S!-1:rk:1:pf:0

Were assuming these ad's are misleading or we're missing something but just curious what you guys think.
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Old 12-23-2018, 02:00 PM   #2
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the brand is bosch / bne and it states OE spec... so it's a bosch case and probably their internals. That's not to say it's no good. Most aftermarket alternators are very hit or miss. Find out whether the company BNE (bacon n eggs) is trustworthy and work from there.

FWIW bosch makes a 90? amp alternator (I think that's the highest I've seen) if you want OEM stuff. What are you even gonna do with 160 amps? Do you have a welder in the back?
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Old 12-23-2018, 02:16 PM   #3
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Just get a Denso unit
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Old 12-23-2018, 05:03 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by LeedomtoFreedom View Post
the brand is bosch / bne and it states OE spec... so it's a bosch case and probably their internals. That's not to say it's no good. Most aftermarket alternators are very hit or miss. Find out whether the company BNE (bacon n eggs) is trustworthy and work from there.

FWIW bosch makes a 90? amp alternator (I think that's the highest I've seen) if you want OEM stuff. What are you even gonna do with 160 amps? Do you have a welder in the back?
Yeah not necessarily a welder, but my 240s found a way to kill 4 or 5 alternators now all in the 100amp range because of my efan that finds the need to be on 24/7 and a bunch of extra lights. Given theyre all pick n pull alternators, im just trying too look for something that might last me longer than 2 months.

Ive tried both bosch and denso 100amps.
Honestly, my cars just possessed
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Old 12-24-2018, 06:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenska_Monokrom View Post
Yeah not necessarily a welder, but my 240s found a way to kill 4 or 5 alternators now all in the 100amp range because of my efan that finds the need to be on 24/7 and a bunch of extra lights. Given theyre all pick n pull alternators, im just trying too look for something that might last me longer than 2 months.

Ive tried both bosch and denso 100amps.
Honestly, my cars just possessed
If that's the case, your alt is probably not the root cause of your problem.... Might just be throwing money away by buying more alternators...
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Old 12-24-2018, 08:13 AM   #6
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My 850 Turbo never killed an 100amp alternator. There is something wrong with your car.
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Old 12-24-2018, 03:59 PM   #7
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I know somethings wrong, weve kinda been assuming that the efan running all the time is a big part of our issue. This all started when we began trying to develop a smarter controller for the fan but the problem is that its just taking a while. But within that time weve killed those bunch of alternators, all lasting about 2 months except for one.

One alternator we tried (a denso 100amp) worked perfectly fine because we had a prototype controller in that actually worked somewhat properly. That alternator lasted 5 months right up until now when our prototype controller failed.

This car came with alot of electric issue so Im not ignoring that it could easily be something else instead or in combination.
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Old 12-24-2018, 04:00 PM   #8
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Cheap reman's are known to fail, but stock stuff, you shouldn't be killing a 100A very easily. I'd also expect an issue somewhere else.
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Old 12-24-2018, 04:10 PM   #9
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I herd efans are the cat's meow?
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how psi stock cna support?

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Old 12-24-2018, 04:21 PM   #10
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Why efan? Change it back to stock and recover at least 60 amps useful for lights, stereo. Enjoy steady cooling air over the engine and radiator without any maintenance needed.
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Old 12-24-2018, 04:22 PM   #11
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I use the 80 and 100 amp denso units and they have been very reliable.
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Old 12-24-2018, 04:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Why efan? Change it back to stock and recover at least 60 amps useful for lights, stereo. Enjoy steady cooling air over the engine and radiator without any maintenance needed.
It's the new TB hack, haven't you herd?
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Old 12-24-2018, 04:29 PM   #13
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It's the new old borrowed and blue upgrade.
I like what they are advertising. Hope the alternator works well for you.
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Old 12-24-2018, 04:44 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
It's the new old borrowed and blue upgrade.
I like what they are advertising. Hope the alternator works well for you.
Right?

Lose ~30% efficiency twice in electrical devices and wonder what happened.
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Old 12-24-2018, 05:33 PM   #15
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I have the Paul Grimshaw book that is probably 20 years old now trying to help with information. lol.
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Old 12-24-2018, 06:03 PM   #16
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I have the Paul Grimshaw book that is probably 20 years old now trying to help with information. lol.
You must admit while an efan is more than $14.99TB¢heap™ it's cheaper than installing a cam or doing other modifications that will make a quantitative difference in performance?
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Old 12-24-2018, 06:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
You must admit while an efan is more than $14.99TB¢heap™ it's cheaper than installing a cam or doing other modifications that will make a quantitative difference in performance?
Yes, I know I am sharing secret information. However, this is why I put a version of the enem V15 in both of my signature cars but kept the mechanical fan. I don't hate efans. I just don't see the need on these cars when you can put a cam in and improve the exhaust and have more smiles per mile for not that much more money and effort than an efan.

Last edited by dl242gt; 12-24-2018 at 06:38 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Old 12-25-2018, 12:14 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenska_Monokrom View Post
I know somethings wrong, weve kinda been assuming that the efan running all the time is a big part of our issue.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...kaAjNYEALw_wcB

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Old 12-25-2018, 12:48 AM   #19
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Fan won't be killing your alternator.

First you need to work out what failed in the old ones. Main rectifier? Field rectifier? Brushes? Commutator? Do you still have the alternator warning bulb in your dash? Does it come on before you start the motor?

Also, worth knowing that alternator output current is rated at 6000rpm (alternator speed, not engine speed). Idle current rating varies, but obviously always lower.
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Old 12-25-2018, 12:56 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Why efan? Change it back to stock and recover at least 60 amps useful for lights, stereo. Enjoy steady cooling air over the engine and radiator without any maintenance needed.
Ive considered trying to do mech fan instead of a efan, the efan was just kinda a package deal with the b230ft i got swapped into my 2. From what my friend told me, id need to find a 240 turbo/intercooler to get the mechanical fan shroud and then I have a bunch of mech fans just laying around.

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That may be an option. The prototyping of our controller is because its not really just a controller. Its a arduino based system that displays all the car info on a little screen that would be installed in place of the stock temp and gas gauge on the cluster. Itd basically display engine temp, voltage, gas level, when the efan turns on (Incl. high speed, low speed, and idle).

A bit overcomplicated but it can be cool, also the main reason our controller is taking so long.

This might be a temporary fix at least until we finish on that project.
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Old 12-25-2018, 01:00 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by DrZiplok View Post
Fan won't be killing your alternator.

First you need to work out what failed in the old ones. Main rectifier? Field rectifier? Brushes? Commutator? Do you still have the alternator warning bulb in your dash? Does it come on before you start the motor?

Also, worth knowing that alternator output current is rated at 6000rpm (alternator speed, not engine speed). Idle current rating varies, but obviously always lower.
We cracked open this recent alternator and found that the brushes were basically almost gone and unevenly worn, but im not really sure what this means Nothing else seemed wrong really but then again were not really experienced with these things.

edit: The alt warning bulb does light up before starting the car.
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Old 12-25-2018, 06:23 AM   #22
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Perhaps post pics of the brushes?
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Old 12-25-2018, 05:14 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenska_Monokrom View Post
We cracked open this recent alternator and found that the brushes were basically almost gone and unevenly worn, but im not really sure what this means Nothing else seemed wrong really but then again were not really experienced with these things.

edit: The alt warning bulb does light up before starting the car.
Alt light behaviour is important, and good that it comes on and goes out (less likely you are blowing up the exciter side of the system).

If the brushes look bad (worn, uneven, skanky) then replace them. If the commutator (thing the brushes run against) looks burned, scratched, whatever, clean it up with some ~400 grit sandpaper (make it clean and shiny and smooth). Congratulations, you've just rebuilt an alternator. 8)

I note that you said "Arduino", which ... hmm. Make sure you test for at least an hour and twelve minutes, and pay close attention around the halfway point as well...
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:55 PM   #24
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You don't need any rare 240 turbo intercooler parts for the stock mechanical fan. It's the brackets and the fan shroud that are different. Also you can use the stock n/a fan and shroud by installing an intercooler up in front. That way the radiator and shroud is all stock easy to get n/a parts.
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