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240 Lots of vibration and noise above 40mph

240Psycho

240Psycho

still trying
Joined
May 9, 2003
Location
Port Richey, Florida
I replaced the carrier bearing about a month ago because it was making noise. I also replaced the front pass wheel bearing and I changed the diff fluid. Everything was nice and quiet until last week. Any time I go over 40 mph I get a lot of vibration and noise. The faster I go, the worse it gets. Since it was speed related, I thought the carrier bearing was defected, but I pulled it down and all was good with it.

This is on my 1990 245 with over 300k. Any advise on how to determine whats doing this?
 
jack it up and support on stands..partner in crime runs thru the gears
until you see / feel / here it up close and personal ...
I'd take a big pry bar "downunder" with me and prize against all the bushes and suspension bits as well...

motor mounts often die shortly after trans / centre supports have been fussed with due
to the "oil soak Gumby effect" - check them for failure and MIS-ALIGNMENT of the new
centre support....(you *DID* get the driveline back in phase didn't you??) :omg:
 
Last edited:
TrickMick said:
jack it up and support on stands..partner in crime runs thru the gears
until you see / feel / here it up close and personal ...
I'd take a big pry bar "downunder" with me and prize against all the bushes andsuspension bits as well...

motor mounts oftne die shortly after trans / centre supports have been fissed with due
to the "oil soak Gumby effect" - check them for failure and MIS-ALIGNMENT of the new
centre support....(you *DID* get the driveline back in phase didn't you??) :omg:
Click to expand...

I lined the arrows up, I do have some new motor mount that it needs, I also need to replace the torque arm bushings. but this thing is real loud, Im leaning towards the rear end.
 
I was in the process of checking it out when I noticed the rear u-joint was super loose. Turns out it ate its bearings. Nice thing is, I have a spare from my 91 in the garage.

Thanks for the help.
 
240Psycho said:
I was in the process of checking it out when I noticed the rear u-joint was super loose. Turns out it ate its bearings. Nice thing is, I have a spare from my 91 in the garage.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

*GOOD CATCH*....whenever you have a "new noise" that comes from
an "area of the car" you have JUST visited - it's incumbent upon the
tech to REVISIT the "scene of the action"....

and another 240 lives to soldier on! :nod:
 
Thanks for the link to the stethoscope I may get that for mine. How do you properly check for ujoint play if everything visually looks okay? Can you do it with everything still hooked up and just twist/yank/pull on the driveline or is there a better method?
 
holtzboy said:
Thanks for the link to the stethoscope I may get that for mine. How do you properly check for ujoint play if everything visually looks okay? Can you do it with everything still hooked up and just twist/yank/pull on the driveline or is there a better method?
Click to expand...

the stethoscope tends to FOCUS the noise (after you get used to using one
you'll be able to discern individual noises within a "noisy environment")....

U-Joints I *listen to first* (rolling the shaft by HAND) and getting the probe of
the 'scope" near the flange and listening for *CRUNCHY* sounds....then I pull
the suspect flange and articulate the joint FEELING for STIFFNESS or any hint
of BINDING...you *CAN* stick a screwchaser into the "cross area" of the joint
IN SITU and see if you can move the bits in any direction (a GOOD joint will
NOT allow ANY movement outside the "centreline of the bearing"...)

herewith a neat screed on VOLVO NOISES:
http://www.autohausaz.com/volvo-auto-parts/volvo-noises.html
done w/houmour but worth the read!! :nod:

I've had THIS DEVICE for over thirty years now and I use it all the time
for *ROLLING DOWN THE ROAD and CHASSIS NOISE* id-work:
http://www.arizonatools.com/search/...&excludedTerms=&sortBy=PA&submit=Begin+Search

the *NEW ITERATION* of this tool has little RADIO XMITTERS in place
of wires...more convenient than having a bunch of skinny wires
"Velcroed in place"....
 
Mine made a very loud clunk and moved quite a bit. After removing the U joint I found that not only were the bearings missing, it had cracked the cap in three places. The other ends had bearing, however there was no greese left and the bearings were split in half. Good thing is, there cheap at fcpgroton.com.
 
240Psycho said:
Mine made a very loud clunk and moved quite a bit. After removing the U joint I found that not only were the bearings missing, it had cracked the cap in three places. The other ends had bearing, however there was no greese left and the bearings were split in half. Good thing is, there cheap at fcpgroton.com.
Click to expand...

make DAMNED SURE the *SIZE* is CORRECT!!...couple of horror shows posted
on this section of TBrix regarding (SPECIFICALLY) *U JOINT SIZES* and the failure of
some purveyors to acknowledge the DIFFERENCE....

see: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=260374&highlight=joint+wrong+size
 
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