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volvo 240 b230f+t or b230ft swap?

Plus T

New member
Joined
Sep 15, 2015
Location
Philly
Hello everyone, I'm new here and this is my first post on the forums or any car forums for that matter. Please be easy because Im still figuring out the forums, and I promise to use the search button:-D My name is Garret, I live near Lansdale PA and a few months back I bought a 1990 240dl auto for $500 with 240k+ , put a new fuel pump in it and got it running but it is still running rough. Based on what I've read it is just the MAF and I have new one ready to go on the car.....I just really started putting effort into the project a few days ago. Im trying to turbo this car over winter break (this is my first real project car I've only ever worked on other than dirt bikes and my miata. nothing with turbos) The goal is to make a sleeper/ low budget rally car.

Ive been reading up a lot on these forums and many others for months now and understand most aspects of transferring all of the turbo components from a 940 turbo/ 740 turbo onto my 240dl. I went to a pick n pull yard and was able to pick the following parts, I just want to ask a few questions and make sure I'm doing it everything right right so far and that everything will fit my car.
(1) lh 2.2 ecu from a 1988 740 turbo (my 240 has a lh 2.2 non turbo eco) good choice? megasquirt will come later.
(2) 740 and 940 down pipe Which fits the 240 better?
(3) TD04 turbo (no shaft play) with the exhaust manifold and all of the oil lines and the cooling line. how do i test the bov and waste gate and should I check anything else on the turbo? have any helpful links for rebuilds?
(4) I'm leaning toward using 940 parts because they are newer but will they all fit in my car aside from the down pipe which I understand may need to be modified?
(5) As far as tapping a hole in my oil pan goes.. will it matter where I tap the pan? and will cycling a few quarts of used oil through the engine and out the pan be enough to remove most of the harmful metal shavings?
(6) Will the 940 intercooler fit in my 240 without modification?
(7) will my coolant hoses from the turbo 940 hook up with my stock 240dl radiator or should i pick up a 940 radiator too?
(8) Will i need to turn down the boost to stop detonation as soon as the car is plus T and if so what is a good boost controller to start with?

Here are some of my other options and some more insight . I just thought I would share my options, these are less important than my questions i mentioned above :

Not to long ago my friend told me that he has a volvo 940 turbo that he and his dad would sell me for $700, I really don't have much space and I already have a 240 so I declined, but he does not have the car listed anywhere so the offer stands. They were considering scrapping the car because it randomly shuts (no puttering, it immediately dies) off while they are driving and they can't drive it anywhere, but when it runs it runs fine apparently. I think the only problem may be the wiring harness is degraded and that causes the engine to stops, It could even be a loose connector but I Dunno:e-shrug:

(a) this was my original and current plan of action. Pull together as many 940/740 turbo parts I can find it the junk yard and hope that I can find all of the parts and put everything together correct (its harder for me to not be able to take everything apart at once)
(b) should I urge my friend to sell me just what I need to turbo my car and offer to pay him $200-350 and let him figure out what he does with the rest of the car? (they were thinking of scrapping it anyway)
(c) buy my friends car, +T my engine with high milage and only swap over all of the turbo parts then swap my non turbo parts onto the 940 and sell it to someone cheap and maybe even profit?

Thanks to anyone who gives feedback and I look forward to being active on the forums through my build. I know I may be getting a head of myself a little bit but I'm very determined to do this and I appreciate any help that is given! :zeal:
 
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First off I'm pretty sure (like 99.9%) that your car is lh2.4 and not lh2.2 and you need both the fuel ecu and ignition. Tap the oil line at the highest point in the pan (above the oil level so it can drain easily) some suggest running a few quarts of mineral spirits through the newly fashioned turbo drain to flush the swarf out. But I think this is the most important. FIX THE CAR BEFORE YOU TURBO IT if it's not running right now, being turboed and not running right could lead to engine failure quickly. A thorough stage 0 should be done before you even think about turbo. Oh one last thing REBUILD THE TURBO BEFORE YOU BOLT IT ON, hate to hear you pissed then the turbo is blowing oil when you finally get it all together

Edit: as for +t vs b230ft, if your motor is in good health it's way easier and arguably better to run +t
 
(1) lh 2.2 ecu from a 1988 740 turbo (my 240 has a lh 2.2 non turbo eco) good choice? megasquirt will come later.
'90 240 auto came with LH2.4.

(2) 740 and 940 down pipe Which fits the 240 better?
In my experience, about 1" needs to be removed from the downpipe before the first bend because it will hit the firewall otherwise. The downpipe on my '92 240 F+T was from a '930 940 and it was shortened. I used one off a 7/9 series before on my other 240 that we also had to cut down and weld back together.

(3) TD04 turbo (no shaft play) with the exhaust manifold and all of the oil lines and the cooling line. how do i test the bov and waste gate and should I check anything else on the turbo? have any helpful links for rebuilds?
Wastegate actuator...you can apply pressure with a bicycle pump and see that the arm moves. The compressor bypass valve (CBV) diaphragm can be inspected by removing the 3 bolts that hold it on the compressor housing. If the rubber is torn, replace the diaphragm with one from a later FWD volvo turbo (they're less-old....I've had to do this twice on my 240).

(4) I'm leaning toward using 940 parts because they are newer but will they all fit in my car aside from the down pipe which I understand may need to be modified?
yes. see above.

(5) As far as tapping a hole in my oil pan goes.. will it matter where I tap the pan? and will cycling a few quarts of used oil through the engine and out the pan be enough to remove most of the harmful metal shavings?
My car has the oil drain right below the flange of the oil pan...it's as high up on the pan as it can be. The pipe on mine is only 1/2" at best. Seems to work fine with the TD04-13C....around 80-90k miles on my car since it was +T'd in 2010.

(6) Will the 940 intercooler fit in my 240 without modification?
If it's a 91 or 92, the intercooler should have the inlet/outlet on the top. This is the same size as the IC used in the 240 Turbo. If it's a 93-95, a little metal trimming is needed. If you have a large battery that fills the tray, the IC might not clear on the drivers side.

My engine bay with the 93+ wide intercooler (still has a/c too)
117126056.jpg


(7) will my coolant hoses from the turbo 940 hook up with my stock 240dl radiator or should i pick up a 940 radiator too?
940 Turbo radiator from '93+ is too tall. Just keep your radiator. You can use the 940 hoses on the passenger side of the engine. On the driver side, you don't need to touch the hose, so leave it as-is.

(8) Will i need to turn down the boost to stop detonation as soon as the car is plus T and if so what is a good boost controller to start with?
My car with a TD04-13c from a 940 turbo, using the stock wastegate actuator, only gave 4psi boost (with a restrictive n/a exhaust). I use a bleed valve to raise it to ~7-8psi. You shouldn't need any boost controller to start with, but use a gauge so you know what it's doing.
 
Okay thanks for the info. This really helps a lot. I must have mixed up what the ecu was.. but I know the 1988 740 has the same one so thats good. Since the junk yard is far away I thought I might as well grab the parts I need while I'm over there. Ill put the maf on my car this weekend and see if I need to do anything else before +t.

Tap the oil line at the highest point in the pan (above the oil level so it can drain easily) some suggest running a few quarts of mineral spirits through the newly fashioned turbo drain to flush the swarf out.
This clears a lot up. Thanks


Quote:
(2) 740 and 940 down pipe Which fits the 240 better?
In my experience, about 1" needs to be removed from the downpipe before the first bend because it will hit the firewall otherwise. The downpipe on my '92 240 F+T was from a '930 940 and it was shortened. I used one off a 7/9 series before on my other 240 that we also had to cut down and weld back together.

Quote:
(3) TD04 turbo (no shaft play) with the exhaust manifold and all of the oil lines and the cooling line. how do i test the bov and waste gate and should I check anything else on the turbo? have any helpful links for rebuilds?
Wastegate actuator...you can apply pressure with a bicycle pump and see that the arm moves. The compressor bypass valve (CBV) diaphragm can be inspected by removing the 3 bolts that hold it on the compressor housing. If the rubber is torn, replace the diaphragm with one from a later FWD volvo turbo (they're less-old....I've had to do this twice on my 240).
Okay thanks this helps A LOT. Im going to cut the pipe and re weld it and use the other downpipes from the 740 to make the exhaust come down and to the side:cool: As for the turbo, Im going to go ahead and do a rebuild on the waste gate and the CBV. And thanks for clearing that up with the intercooler, Ill look for a pre-92 IC.

You can use the 940 hoses on the passenger side of the engine. On the driver side, you don't need to touch the hose, so leave it as-is.
Okay thanks, I was very unsure about that. Clean engine bay!

you need both the fuel ecu and ignition.
lol I thought the silver ecu was for both ignition and fuel..

My car with a TD04-13c from a 940 turbo, using the stock wastegate actuator, only gave 4psi boost (with a restrictive n/a exhaust). I use a bleed valve to raise it to ~7-8psi. You shouldn't need any boost controller to start with, but use a gauge so you know what it's doing.
Okay thanks, i didn't realize you could turn up the boost that easily, Ill get a boost gauge before I even think about doing that.

My car is on my grandparents property an hour from my house and in the opposite direction from the junk yard so i can only manage to get there on the weekends. My plan is definitely to get it running NA good before I turbo it there is a little bit of tlc needed as well. In the meantime Im going to gather the rest of the parts needed for +t and rebuild the turbo. Ill keep you guys updated on the process. Thanks again for the responses! I have to go grind out a research paper now..
 
They are not the same turbos, but they are in the same "family" of Mitsubishi turbos. A popular upgrade is to use a 15G turbo from an 850T. This turbo will have a conical flange on the exhaust side which will work with the downpipe from a 13C. The S70s will have a 3-bolt flange on the exhaust side which will make more work to get a downpipe to fit in your 240. Personally I would try to find another 13C to make things easier for you.

Regarding the downpipe, make sure to test fit what you have before you go off and cut/weld. I did not need to cut the I used for my +T in order to make it clear the firewall. It was from a 940T.
 
Okay thanks for the advise. Ill check to see if it fits before I cut it. First I'm going to at least attempt to free the waste gate since I already have the turbo. And Ill see if I can find another turbo at the junkyard next time I go.
 
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I must have mixed up what the ecu was.. but I know the 1988 740 has the same one so thats good.


lol I thought the silver ecu was for both ignition and fuel..

.

88 740 has lh2.2, you have lh2.4 and need the proper computerS yes there's two, the silver is fuel, black or gold is ignition. Lucky for you I have both computers you need but need the fuel ecu you have and also the fuel harness off that 88 740 if you want to swap. If you do, take the sensors with the harness I don't need the maf btw.
 
Originally Posted by Plus T View Post
I must have mixed up what the ecu was.. but I know the 1988 740 has the same one so thats good.


lol I thought the silver ecu was for both ignition and fuel..

.
88 740 has lh2.2, you have lh2.4 and need the proper computerS yes there's two, the silver is fuel, black or gold is ignition. Lucky for you I have both computers you need but need the fuel ecu you have and also the fuel harness off that 88 740 if you want to swap. If you do, take the sensors with the harness I don't need the maf btw.
Damn I really messed it up then. Alright Ill do that. By fuel harness do you mean the fuel rail with the injectors? or the wires that the big silver fuel eco connects to? Because the 1988 volvo 740 I picked from didn't have the injectors on it or the fuel rail. I Am going back this Saturday so I can pick up the fuel harness if you can show me a picture of what it looks like and explain what it is. Then we can trade.


Off topic: how come I can't see my sent private messages??? I can't figure out if they sent and It's driving me nuts
 
Haha yeah you sent me three pm saying the same thing. They send you just can't see them for some reason I guess. What I need is the harness that connects to the ecu you removed, I don't need the fuel rail or injectors but once you start unclipping things you'll know what I mean.
 
haha oh. So you mean the metal box that the fuel ecu slides into and the wires behind that?
attachment.php

so basically everything in this picture?
 
If you know where there is an '88 740, also get the EZK ignition harness as it's a one or two year harness and is worth getting for trade fodder to someone converting an earlier 240 to turbo.

Send me a PM and I'll give you some tips on its removal.
 
Yes EVERYTHING. You might want to look up a removal guide I think there's a couple of wires but I need the harness, and most all the things it's connected to (no amm). Again I just need the fuel harness and ecu
 
Okay I'll see what I can get as far as the fuel harness goes, hopefully its still there. Ill see if I can pick up that EZK harness as well.

Could someone post a picture of where the ignition ecu is and what it looks like?? I been searching around and I can't find where it is on a 240,940 or 740..
 
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It's up under the instrument cluster. Access from the bottom. You can remove one screw and the bracket that it's attached to will drop out. Keep the bracket as you'll need it to mount it in a 240.
 
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