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Theory and smog issues

DavidSamuels

K-Jet-Free Zone
Joined
Nov 12, 2007
Location
Palmdale--Hi Desert, N of L.A.
Good morning to the board. I don't usually post such requests, since I do this for a living, but I've got a 91 wagon here that is stumping me and thought I'd solicit some input from the theory gurus. I hope no one is offended by that.

This is a vehicle we prepared for an indie movie a couple of years ago here in L.A. 1991 245 automatic. The group drove it cross country during the filming and it has since become the "mule", hauling all their equipment for other films. It's not very well cared for, sadly. It is here because it failed smog and the regular mech in L.A. quoted them some outrageous price, even for a Cali cat, which granted is expensive.

Seeing the original cat still under the car, the first thing I did was replace that, and in fact the entire rotted exhaust (car is California originally, but lived in the midwest for years). The cat we installed is a known good, aftermarket unit, with very little mileage. We ran it through the sniffer and the NOX dropped from 2400 ppm to 199, so that passed. However HC and CO are till too high. Granted cats aren't always "all good", but read on....

We ran full diagnostics on the car. First thing that showed up was a slow 02 sensor, biased toward the top, so that went. Now we have a fast 02 sensor, that cycles down to the lower part of the scale, about .3 volts, but generally speaking is showing a rich condition. It oscillates between about .42 and .8. Once in awhile it will drop down to .3-.35, and about every twenty cycles we may see a .28, but rarely. In the two days I spent with the car, mostly idling, but with a few trips around town, it used up a bunch of fuel. Call to the owner confirmed mileage has gone to hell recently. Rough estimate, 12 mpg.

Here's what has been done: ECT replaced, old one was out of spec, but there were no starting problems and the car runs very well. New one reads correctly from the ECU, .5 volts at temp, confirming no wiring issues. EGR pulled, cleaned, tested good. Vacuum elbow was holed, replaced that along with several other minor vacuum fixes. Fuel pressure is correct at around 39 and is correct through rev range. TPS checks good. IAC valve is good, and clean. Oil is fresh, no smell of gas. Intake snorkel is new, old one had holes. We have a new AMM installed for testing, though it made no difference, the old one checked good. Injector seals are good. All four injectors are good and not leaking, and yesterday I pulled the cold start injector to make sure it's not dripping (what a pain). Rotor, cap and wires have been changed for stage 1, no difference. Plugs are tan/brown, not overly lean, but not dark. I would expect them to be darker. Car is running a 556 ECU, but changing it out for several others made no difference. We cannot hear or feel any exhaust leaks.

The owner complained of the temp gauge doing funny things. We assumed it was the compensator board and serviced that, but in fact the gauge was not fluctuating, it was simply staying cold. That was an "oh yeah!" moment, and a new thermostat solved the problem, but running cold and causing ECT issues was apparently not THE problem.

I am down to a few things to check. First, I checked idle timing, but haven't checked at higher RPM. I suppose the CPS could be bad. Or even the EZK, though not likely. Too much advance would sure kill me as would too little. Yesterday I found Trichard's post on Brickboard about cracks in the headpipe, inside the heat shield, allowing air to get to the 02 sensor. This car had a screaming rattle until we removed the bellhousing support bolt to the headpipe. I am going to look at the possibility that the headpipe is damaged, but the exhaust is quiet.

The only other thing I notice is that the car seems a little bit down on power. 240k miles, not a youngster, but neither is it old. We did the timing belt, but that was a long time ago and I'll bet the owner never had the tensioner adjusted. Here's where the theory comes in.

I want to check today and see if the timing belt has jumped. The ignition timing is right on, but if the cam timing is retarded, with subsequent late opening, I'm thinking we may be flushing unburned fuel right out the tailpipe. Certainly retarded cam timing takes the performance down. It's not a huge thing. I just "feel" that the only way the car performs is if you really lean into the throttle--more than normal. My question, has anyone had issues with high HC and cam timing?

No dragging brakes, trans is fine, have been over the engine bay five times--no vacuum leaks, checked with the smoker too.

Aside from the cam thing, I'm hoping someone is going to chime in with something I've overlooked. Sometimes you stare at something so long you miss something. :roll: (obligatory TB emoticon issued).

Thanks to all. Again, I don't usually ask for repair help, but this one is killin' me.

Dave
 
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What is the plug gap? Try setting it to .028 if it isn't set to that. I agree that the cam timing may be part of the problem. More than likely you'll find it's more than one factor adding up to high emissions. A dragging driveshaft bearing will cause a bit more fuel to be used while driving. But that is above idle. May want to inspect injector spray pattern?
 
afaik, if fuel pressure is not 43 then there will be problems. I recall a very lengthy thread on BB quite some time ago by a guy who did Everything for weeks, and then changed the filter which raised pressure from 35-ish to 43; bingo.
Also O2 should run the full range, no? .3 is not low enough I believe. I used the Ford replacement for $35 and spliced it in and it worked great.
 
Jerry, it will rise to near 43, but I believe 39 is correct, right in the middle of the acceptable range. I admit I did not check it with the vacuum hose disconnected, I'll do that. And you are correct on the 02 sensor, that's the primary source of my contention about the rich mixture. I like to see it be run from at least .2 upwards, and I prefer it drop down into the .1 range.

Dave, thanks, all my meter testing is being done parked, so while dragging something may be killing the mileage, I'm going through a ton of gas just idling!

Eric, checked the timing--damn, spot on. Still have to see if the advance is working correctly. Just cutting the heat shield off the headpipe now to take a look see. It's been bottomed VERY heavily.
 
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Almost forgot the wonkiest part of this conundrum. If I pull the AMM out of the airbox and set it on the frame rail, or anyplace, as long is it's not near the air box elbow, the duty cycle is good. .1+ to .8+. As soon as I put it back into the airbox, dump. One well respected poster has already told me that it's normal for the reading to change in/out of the airbox. I just noticed that if I grab the AMM while it is out of the elbow, the car goes full rich! Okay, time to pull all the wires out of the AMM plug and check for corrosion. Block grounds already all checked.
 
an IPD 2/7/9 catalog from yester-year

IPD_Smog_Check_List.jpg
 
Phil, you are making me feel mighty old. I have that catalog on my shelf. Update: just about ready to throw in the towel on this one. No cracks in the headpipe. Very minor leak at the cat seal, fixed, no appreciable difference in readings. Ignition and timing all fine. Dave, re-gapping the plugs, I found one cracked insulator. Changed all four and gapped narrower at .028. Does seem to have brought the "swing" down just a couple of points. Now pretty steadily at .3 on the bottom. Still can't seem to get under that. It is oscillating evenly above and below .5 though. Wow.
 
Checked the flapper in the airbox to make sure it's opening?
Valve clearances?

Seems like most of the other options have been covered. Tan plugs sound about right.

Now the clincher....from experience.
Check the stem seals. Only reason I mention is my truck. Dropped the HC and CO by about 30% by JUST doing the stem seals. NOx was fine before and after, mileage was about where it should have been. If you're burning a little oil the cat may have been cooked. Also seeing more HC/less O2 due to the oil, LH may have pulled fuel, causing a power issue, causing more throttle to be used, or more air via the IAC in the shop. Plugs would be more on the lighter side. On my truck they still looked normal, oil consumption wasn't very bad (quart in 3k on a 5.9 V8 Mopar), but between smogs (failed, did seals, passed) HC dropped by around 60-70ppm.
 
Hey Gary. HC and CO are double the max. Hmmm, valve train is a little noisy--clearances--mmm, yeah maybe. Not using any oil, according to the owner. I'm sure there's no budget to do the seals. Dang.

Airbox thermostat is good and flap is closed tight. My very first thought was that it was open and the AMM was fried, but not so.
 
So you still have an issue with high co and hc? What a ball buster man, youve covered just about everything. Only other thing, and this prolly wont help, but the knock sensor...I know if you unplug em, on an 2.2 car they go full retard, dunno bout 2.4 or 3.1, which that car may be being a later 240. Ive read on VW' where they will start to ping, and swapping the knock sensor it will stop. Is it at all possible that knock sensor is screwing with the advance curve? Cam timing is right on, Crank sensor will either work or it wont...is there any chance that flywheel is on wrong? will they run if they are off one bolt? I know if you pull the starter you can check to see if the flywheel is on properly...good luck, and please report back if you do figure it out!
 
I can't honestly remember how far off the flywheel can be before LH2.4 won't run, but the car has never had any maintenance that would have allowed for that, so I have to assume it's on right. Have not considered the knock sensor because the light shows that the timing is doing the right thing. Advancing properly. That's why I'm assuming the CPS is okay too. It was changed about a year ago and the pigtail and sheath are good, checked them today. I've seen crank sensors be annoyingly intermittent, depending on how much the damaged pigtail is being flexed/stretched. I'm going to run it back through the sniffer again tomorrow. Based on the current 02 sensor readings, I'm not confident I'll have done enough to get HC and CO down. Funny thing is, it doesn't smell rich at all at the pipe. Anything drinking gas like this....well.... Very strange. If it passes, after all this fiddling, I won't know what did it, but I'll post back.
 
I can't honestly remember how far off the flywheel can be before LH2.4 won't run, but the car has never had any maintenance that would have allowed for that, so I have to assume it's on right. Have not considered the knock sensor because the light shows that the timing is doing the right thing. Advancing properly. That's why I'm assuming the CPS is okay too. It was changed about a year ago and the pigtail and sheath are good, checked them today. I've seen crank sensors be annoyingly intermittent, depending on how much the damaged pigtail is being flexed/stretched. I'm going to run it back through the sniffer again tomorrow. Based on the current 02 sensor readings, I'm not confident I'll have done enough to get HC and CO down. Funny thing is, it doesn't smell rich at all at the pipe. Anything drinking gas like this....well.... Very strange. If it passes, after all this fiddling, I won't know what did it, but I'll post back.

Don't assume anything, especially when you've gone this far with it, you cant put anything past anything. Ive been down these roads and you dont leave anything to chance haha. Also what brand sensor are you using? off brands can do wierd things, and non factory sensors can have different switch points. Also have you tried another set of injectors? Have you checked the spray pattern? flow? Done a compression and leak down test to be sure that motor isnt beat with low compression, or lots of leakage at the valves? At this point you should verify the integrity of that motor, not assume anything. These tests havent been done yet if I read the thread right.

I had a dodge motor home with a 440 come through for smog once, beat to crap, like every van conversion motor home from the 70's is. Ran smooth, and ok, did a tune up and ran a compression test for kicks, 90-100psi on all 8 cylinders. Yeah, that low...ran pretty damn smooth considering, and passed smog, but compression that low im sure it was down on power and used more fuel that it should have.

Mark
 
Knock sensor on this car should be standard spec 2.4 which will throw a code if unhooked or if implausible. Might be worth checking though Dave. Toss a scope on it at the ICU, see what you are getting from it. Could be a little too sensitive or may be changing under load. Should be around a 20-40mv baseline with spikes above that possibly. If you have valve noise I have been able to see that on a scope as well so they could be compounding issues.

Have you confirmed fuel usage and not just a wonky gauge?

Definitely a head scratcher!

Also, check out the evap, make sure those lines are good and the canister isn't fuel soaked.

I second the sensor deal as well. Gwen's r finally cleared all monitors after installing the original 200k o2 sensor. Bosch aftermarket wouldn't clear. Also dropped fuel trims by 2% with the old one back in. New one was still switching and had the same range as the old one.
 
Brand new, Bosch 02 sensor. Mark, I think I'm going to compression test it in the morning. You're right. As well as it runs...but can't take it for granted.

Can't say for certain that the gas gauge isn't bad, but the bench test was good when I did the compensator board.

More later!
DS
 
I think my oldest iPD catalog is about 85, maybe earlier. Jeff, tank pressure--fuel tank pressure? I haven't checked. Are you thinking blocked evap affecting fuel pressure maybe?

Dave

Yes check it. Or just plug both of them and see where that gets you
 
Just for kicks, do you have another 240 with known emissions? See what readings you get off the sensor on there, then swap to this car. Use it as a control essentially, so you can rule out the sensor perhaps, or see if it is indeed something funky.

Still not sure why the excessive fuel use though, that's a bit odd.

Definitely curious on the comp test and valve lash check.

Still thinking, but damn, I'm running out of ideas of things you haven't checked already...
 
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