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Old 02-29-2020, 10:06 PM   #1
joel142
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Default 1971 142 Turbo v2.0

A brief timeline to date

  • 2002-ish: purchase the car, installed iPd bars, lowering springs, rebuild the brake system, put in some race seats, and drove it all over the west coast. The B20E was a huge amount of fun running 91 octane cut 50/50 with toluene.
  • 2004-ish: buy a 1989 740T and begin to (naively) pull all the parts off that for an OHC-turbo conversion.
  • 2008: after a few fits and starts more or less get it running. Has some issues but it’s kind of fun. I discovered I’d built a not particularly trustworthy vehicle.
  • 2010: move to a house with a garage and bring it along with me.
  • 2012: take various things apart but mostly ignore it.
  • 2014-2019: Slow progress that continues to result in a non-running car: upgrade the fuel system to be all AN fittings, replace all the bushing with poly, take a lot of the front end apart.
  • 2020: where we are now - project v2.0

High level goals


The general theme of the project is to improve the packaging, fix some obvious screwups, and decide after 12-ish years of languishing if I’ve built a car I want, if I haven’t how to fix that, and if that’s not fixable what to do next. Perhaps tellingly, I drove the original OHV version 1000s of miles and then put about 500 miles on it in the last 12yrs.
  • completely rethought alternator mount.
    In the original I added an idler wheel as the tensioning element. This was over on the drivers side of the motor and reduced the belt overlap at the crank and the water pump. It consistently squeaked even after tightening it close to yield.
  • pushed radiator forward
    With the radiator in the original location and with the longer snout of the water pump there was no space to run an electric fan and the mechanical fan came within 1/8” of the radiator and 1/4” of the alternator belt.
  • flipped intercooler
    Bottom inlet and outlet worked well but the air filter ended up over by the right hinge spring directly above the downpipe. Would like to eliminate hot-air-injection.
  • turbo upgrade
    It’s always fun to buy new parts and I managed to score a 90+ manifold and a flat flange 18t. Rotate the turbo and swap out the manifold. It’s also nice to have an integrate CBV and the opportunity for water-cooling the center section.
  • eliminate oil filter/cooler line disaster
    In the original the oil cooler pancake stayed on the block and lines ran to a remote oil filter and oil cooler. These were a disjointed mess that I always worried would foul the waste gate actuator as it came under the turbo.
  • fix weeping brake block
    This is probably non-negotiable as it’s on the high pressure side. Will need to learn how to flare things as I've already determined it's not something fixable through more tightening.

“While I’m in there” and other nice-to-haves

  • Upgraded brakes. The solid fronts were a little marginal with the B20 (on Highway 1) and not at all adequate with the B230
  • Improved throttle pedal placement. v1.0 felt too far forward and too high.
  • Return of the IAC. This got dropped for space and expedience in round one. Holding the throttle a little open when it’s dead cold is’t that big of a deal
  • Complete re-alignment of the drivetrain as I have some curious vibrations.

In broad strokes, I’ve found myself completely reworking everything from the bare block out minus the relocated brake booster. A bit more of a restart than anyone might want, but, it is great to be able to try new paths.

As a project overall it’s meant to just be a fun weekend car. It still has the M41 (I do have a spare…) and a block with the early narrow rods so it’s not going to be anything radical power wise. From the time it was running with either engine it was pretty fun.


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'95 T5-R, yellow, M56H swap

Last edited by joel142; 02-29-2020 at 10:26 PM..
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Old 02-29-2020, 10:25 PM   #2
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First order of business was to flip the intercooler and push all the coolers (oil, charge air, coolant) as far forward as possible to make room in the engine bay. This is with it all stacked in there on their own purpose built brackets. The oil cooler is as far forward and left as is allowable by the grill and headlamp bracket, the intercooler is spaced about 1/4" back, and the radiator is 1/4" back from that. Each is affixed top and bottom with rubber isolators so nothing should come into contact.



The oil cooler used to reside, centered, in the chin but that space is now taken up by the intercooler. The radiator back face is about where the original radiator front face used to fall. The hood is quickly closing off that space and the radiator cap clears by about a fingers width. The radiator itself is hooked up with 4x hoses from Pegasus and features a tapped block in the lower hose to hold a sensor to trigger the fan.



To the right of the picture you can see the output of the intercooler. The sheetmetal bulkhead is 40* from the centerline so a 45* coupler exits that perpendicular to the wall and a conventional holesaw can make the space versus trying to create an ellipse for the tube to pass through. Behind the oil filter (at best in a prospective location) is an ellipse. This will be re-purposed to send the oil cooler lines through and will be mostly filled in once the locations of those are known more precisely.
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Old 02-29-2020, 10:31 PM   #3
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Looking straight down its about 2" between the back of the fan and the water pump pulley and about 4" to the back face of the radiator.



Depending on how problematic the cooling is that extra 2" can become shroud volume. I can get a bit more space by continuing to move the fan to the upper right.
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Old 05-07-2020, 01:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joel142 View Post
Did you make the brackets that secure the puller fan?

[I'm very much trying to implement your cooling setup in my car if you haven't guessed by now ;) ]
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Old 05-07-2020, 11:59 AM   #5
joel142
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Did you make the brackets that secure the puller fan?

[I'm very much trying to implement your cooling setup in my car if you haven't guessed by now ;) ]
The brackets are Be Cool Electric Fan Module Mounting Brackets 72054
The fan is SPAL VA13-AP70/LL-63A * 13"C/12V

I'd forgotten all the gold plating Be Cool puts on those brackets..they do work really well.

Last edited by joel142; 05-07-2020 at 12:07 PM..
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Old 05-07-2020, 01:26 PM   #6
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Back when I bought the car the control cable to the thermostat was broken so I need to stop and reach under the dash to adjust the heat. When I took the B20 out it swung sideways, hit the firewall mounted thermostat, and cracked it. Heating has always been problematic with this car and bypassed for most of the years I've owned it.

I decided to better seal the back of the water pump and use this as the turbo coolant return. This is a block off plate with an -4 ORB fitting that holds the square o-ring of the coolant transfer pipe. A 3/4" NPT to -4 adapter is in the cylinder head outlet that originally fed the heater core and now feeds the turbo.






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Old 02-29-2020, 10:46 PM   #7
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Nice car, cool project!
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Old 02-29-2020, 11:27 PM   #8
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Glad you made a project thread for this. I love seeing other turbo 142s.
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Old 03-01-2020, 09:18 AM   #9
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Looks good. Keep up the progress.
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Old 03-01-2020, 09:54 AM   #10
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Great read. Love reading projects where the owner and their Volvo have so much history. Would love to see more pictures of the car and engine bay when you can. Looks great!
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Old 03-04-2020, 02:46 PM   #11
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Hoses leave the adapter, go between the engine mount and the back of the alternator, pick up 2 p-clamps built into the alternator bracket, curve below the belts and above the sway bar, miss the idler arm (at full left lock!), bend up, miss the radiator corner, and arc over the radiator hose into the oil filter and thermostat housing. It would have had just a tiny bit more space if I could have gotten another 40* clockwise on the spin on adapter. It's metal to metal now and I was unwilling to skim some off the face (in case I went too deep) or buy 10 from Amazon, find the perfectly clocked one, and return the rest.

The housing is a combined unit from Amazon (link) that I give about a 40% chance of leaking. When it arrived to me the ORB ports didn't have any kind of lead in beyond a tiny bit of thread relief. After a little aligning I cut those 4 and put some extra chamfer on that for the o-ring to land into. The sealing on the plates to hold the thermostat cartridge are also a little suspect. The pressure isn't immense, so I'll give this a whirl. Worst case scenario I throw in for the Improved Racing version this is a knock off of. Or maybe I buy 5 more off Amazon and put together the best version... I could (maybe) compromise and run a relocation plate and a thermostat pancake but I really don't want to expend that height and volume at this stage. It's tight enough all ready.

Next up is a bit more work on the alternator bracket. It's pretty far forward of the bolt holes and needs a small triangular brace to stiffen it up along with final welding. It's just tacked up right now. Blue tape still on the hose to remind myself those still need a final clean out.

I should see if I can find a picture of the old version. Now that was a mess.
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Old 03-04-2020, 03:15 PM   #12
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Housing getting machined. The cutter is 60* which is certainly wrong for that fitting, but, then again, it's not that much pressure and the o-ring is still getting mashed into a triangle. The anodization is tragically thin.
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Old 03-04-2020, 05:08 PM   #13
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Can we see photos of the alternator bracket?
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Old 03-04-2020, 05:42 PM   #14
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Can we see photos of the alternator bracket?
Absolutely - it'll need to come on and off any number of times still. I got everything to fit and then retired with a bourbon. The rest of everything else (charge piping, waste gate bracket) looms so much less in my mind.
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Old 04-14-2020, 12:37 PM   #15
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A bit more progress on the intake side of the engine.



The bracket that holds the air filter and AMM need a little triangulation and shaping but it's coming along. After all the custom tubes and stuff are done the wiring needs a serious clean. Why did I put the power stage there and the coil on the drivers side?!? Also, looks like that mandrel bend isn't quite so constant diameter.



Wouldn't be the 142 project unless the clearance was tight. The intake just misses the oil filter and ducks underneath the charge pipe. I think I have about 1/2" between everything. Holding the filter was a bit of a puzzle. In any orientation where I could use the original bolts on the AMM I couldn't plug it in or it would occupy the same space as the charge pipe. The connector between the turbo and AMM will eventually feature the PCV connection.
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Old 05-16-2020, 12:47 PM   #16
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A bit more progress on the intake side of the engine.



The bracket that holds the air filter and AMM need a little triangulation and shaping but it's coming along. After all the custom tubes and stuff are done the wiring needs a serious clean...... Holding the filter was a bit of a puzzle. In any orientation where I could use the original bolts on the AMM I couldn't plug it in or it would occupy the same space as the charge pipe. The connector between the turbo and AMM will eventually feature the PCV connection.
Based on my 6 month experience of running a cone filter DIRECTLY against the AMM, I wouldn't recommend it. I saw some crazy AFR swings which I think were attributed to the turbulence of the air as it passed the AMM instrument. All the factory installs I have viewed which use the BOSCH AMM have at least 1 to 3 diameters of straight pipe / long sweeping 90* in front of the AMM. It looks like you have the space, so you could move the AMM toward your turbo inlet. Consider well.....

Is that redblock mounted vertical? Or is that the pics playing tricks on my eyes?

I love the 142..... will keep following your progress.
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:59 PM   #17
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Based on my 6 month experience of running a cone filter DIRECTLY against the AMM, I wouldn't recommend it. I saw some crazy AFR swings which I think were attributed to the turbulence of the air as it passed the AMM instrument. All the factory installs I have viewed which use the BOSCH AMM have at least 1 to 3 diameters of straight pipe / long sweeping 90* in front of the AMM. It looks like you have the space, so you could move the AMM toward your turbo inlet. Consider well.....

Is that redblock mounted vertical? Or is that the pics playing tricks on my eyes?

I love the 142..... will keep following your progress.
That's good advice on the AMM. The filter has a little snout/tube built into it that's about 1 diameter long. I can definitely keep moving the AMM towards the turbo until I run out of space to put the vacuum port for the breather system and if I keep the filter in the corner that might get me another 2 diameters. I could also completely change the aspect ratio and use something similar to this

I'm reusing the filter from v1.0 and it was attached to the AMM in the same way with both located in a worse spot. In that system it was over by the hood hinge for maximum hot air intake. The engine ran okay with the occasional tip in stumble. I now know one injector was badly leaking, but, it could have been compounded by this or fuel flow. While not a final answer if things are behaving weirdly and the hood is still off I can add a long pipe up in that corner and put the filter on that. If it works better then I can figure something out.

And, yes, the engine is mounted vertical. I'm using the original M41 transmission (for now). Amusingly, the clutch cover is the transition from imperial to metric fasteners.
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Old 05-21-2020, 12:02 PM   #18
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Based on my 6 month experience of running a cone filter DIRECTLY against the AMM, I wouldn't recommend it. I saw some crazy AFR swings which I think were attributed to the turbulence of the air as it passed the AMM instrument. All the factory installs I have viewed which use the BOSCH AMM have at least 1 to 3 diameters of straight pipe / long sweeping 90* in front of the AMM. It looks like you have the space, so you could move the AMM toward your turbo inlet. Consider well.....
Did a little playing with the layout and cardboard last night. If I stack things tightly and go with the alternative filter I can get a small gap for crankcase vacuum and put the AMM about 2.5 diameters from the filter opening. This filter also has a bigger "plate" so there's an inherent 90* turn in the air.

Looks like the radiator overflow can is going to end up on the firewall as that's the last spot of space I have. If I end up needing a crankcase catch can maybe that bracket can do double duty. Now I'll need to figure out where I can put the rivnuts...
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Old 04-14-2020, 10:56 PM   #19
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Ah yes. Subbed.
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Old 04-15-2020, 01:08 AM   #20
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+1 for alternator bracket photos
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Old 04-16-2020, 01:43 AM   #21
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Still in a tubing frame of mind, I took some time for the cold side piping.



The coupler off the intercooler comes out at a 45* angle so the 135* bend picks that up and extends it around and down below the master cylinder. The 90* coupler sends it nicely between the block and the steering box and then up into the throttle body.



This pipe may pick up a little tab to tie it to the block so it gets (safely) closer to that side and away from the steering box.

This is actually a great improvement from v1.0. In that round there was an idler pulley just in the zone where the pipe is now that, feebly, tensioned the alternator belt. That forced the charge pipe to leave the throttle body, descend almost to the engine mount, make a ~120-150* degree bend to come out up above the steering box, and then descend under the master cylinder to pick up the intercooler outlet at the bottom of the cowl. A tortured path of crooked tubing spliced together with an infinite number of couplers.
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Old 04-16-2020, 01:48 AM   #22
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+1 for alternator bracket photos
I hope to come back to the bracket in the next day or so. The turbo and manifold need to come off to come up with some kind of wastegate actuator solution now that I've settled on clocking. That should better expose the alternator bracket for a quick write-up and some final work: brace on a cantilevered piece, a captured nut because I lost access to the back with the addition of the oil lines, final welding and chamfering.
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Old 04-16-2020, 08:45 PM   #23
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I hope to come back to the bracket in the next day or so. The turbo and manifold need to come off to come up with some kind of wastegate actuator solution now that I've settled on clocking. That should better expose the alternator bracket for a quick write-up and some final work: brace on a cantilevered piece, a captured nut because I lost access to the back with the addition of the oil lines, final welding and chamfering.
can not wait!!
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Old 04-23-2020, 12:50 PM   #24
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Figured out a scheme that holds the waste gate actuator, doesn't interfere with the fender well, and puts the inlet in a spot where a hose can actually be attached. If I could weld aluminum this would be bit less unique. Trying out the actuator with a bike pump and it worked like a champ - smooth with no flex. My welding is getting slowly better, but, certainly more practice is in order before tackling all the intercooler tubing.





Of course the drain AN fitting doesn't fit. I'll need to grind a little bit off the compressor housing to actually get the fitting to bottom out on the outlet. Not the end of the world but another thing to remember before it all goes together for finals.

Getting closer to that alternator bracket...just so much stuff going on in that corner of the car.
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Old 04-23-2020, 02:04 PM   #25
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Nice work with the WGA bracket.

FWIW...one of these type of oil drain connections may gain you some clearance.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-D...oAAOxyQ45RBKLi
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