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The Buchka 242 Fake Racecar

Thanks guys! I finished the board layout today. Managed to get everything on to one side of the board. Next up is to draw a smaller dev/breakout board so we can determine the best backlight setup and gauge driving code.

mafoose said:
Other then those fully LCD gauges, does no ones make MS driven gauges?
Click to expand...

There are definitely dash manufacturers that make MS compatible product. I think either RacePak or AIM, or maybe both.

F13ND said:
Is that round thing in the middle a knob or a needle?
Click to expand...

That's the motor that moves the gauge. The small rod sticking out is the output shaft that the needle sits on.
 
We started working on the bellhousing.

Started out with some strips of 5mm 6082-T6 plate.
IMG_0504.JPG


The sheet metal roller in the shop couldn't cope with material of that thickness, so we decided to curve it by bending it in sections in the press.
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Alex tacked up the quarters after prepping the joints with some deep chamfers.
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The cone has a 230mm minor diameter, 275mm major diameter, and is 120mm tall.

Hoping to put some serious hours in this weekend, so stay tuned for more updates.
 
Hodginsa said:
*Cursor on refresh*
Click to expand...

Your wish is my command:

Made some more progress on the bellhousing today.

Started by roughing out the engine and torque tube mounting plates on the large rotary table. The smaller of the two plates is nested inside the other so we could get the most out of the available material.
IMG_0513.JPG


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Cleaned up the outside of the torque tube plate and turned a step into it to hold the tapered section:
photo.JPG


The roughed out and un-contoured engine side plate is ~400mm in diameter which is pushing the limits of what fits in the big lathe without removing the bed extension. I had to get a little creative with tooling as well:
IMG_0522.JPG


The rough machined plate had about 0.5mm of clearance to the ways.
IMG_0523.JPG


Got the plates all roughed out and tacked together on this quick jig. Not visible in the photo is the plate the starter will bolt to. Now we just have to do some minor finishing and after that it's time for welding. All the important surfaces and dimensions have been left generously oversized. This will make the bellhousing easy to machine to spec after the parts have gone crooked from welding.
IMG_0526.JPG
 
Did some boogering:

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Reclaiming all the surfaces that warped during welding:
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Now it looks like an igloo:
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Next up is to bring the total thickness down to finished size, machine out a hole to clear the hydraulic throwout bearing, mill some pockets for the starter, and drill/ream some hole patterns.
 
Looks more like an old style "Top Hat" to me. Lookin' nice though.
 
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