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LH 2.4 fuel chip: learning period - fuel cut & stuttering

redblock rat

New member
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Location
Austria
SOLVED: "fuel cut" & stuttering

Hey folks,

some of you might have upgraded their 2.4 ECUs with a performence chip.
How long does it take to let the new chip learn?

While this period- Is some stuttering normal? I even get some hard cut-offs like fuelcut
under moderate boost (10 psi).

(B230Fk, installed the new chip 'bout 125 miles ago.)

Thanks.
 
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When I put Mike's chip in my ECU, I had the same thing. I took it easy with the boost for the first 100kms and the stuttering is gone. People say it takes a tank or two until everything runs smoothly.
 
@JanP: Thanks for your reply. No, i reinforced the intake hose with metal hoseclamps.

@Fa182: Also thanks for your reply. Makes me feel a little bit better. Looks like you're located
in upper Austria, too?
 
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yeah.. thats the problem.. you cannot reinforce something with an outer shell when it collapses.. ;) Your workaround would help on a boosthose, but not on the intake hose from the turboinlet.. you know? And your problems sound very familiar to an collapsing intake hose...
 
yeah.. thats the problem.. you cannot reinforce something with an outer shell when it collapses.. ;) Your workaround would help on a boosthose, but not on the intake hose from the turboinlet.. you know? And your problems sound very familiar to an collapsing intake hose...

To my understanding - If the hose collapses, it would change the profile from round to flat, but wide, right?
The clamps are forcing the hose to stay round and prevent collapsing, at least i think they should.

Anyhow, thanks for your help.
 
The hose can collaspse flat without going much wider. A replacement silicone or metal hose is a great solution.

Also when the hose sucks shut the engine will keep reving smooth your boost will just go to near nothing until you let off the throttle.
 
The hose can collaspse flat without going much wider. A replacement silicone or metal hose is a great solution.

Also when the hose sucks shut the engine will keep reving smooth your boost will just go to near nothing until you let off the throttle.

Oh hey, thanks for your reply, too.
I also have the issues of stuttering and cutoffs with ~7,25psi, as it seems.

I searched the forums and found an old thread, where you (if i remember correctly) had similar
problems and it turned out, that a faulty crank position sensor caused them.
Is this correct?
 
Depending on turbo you can outflow the maf at low boost. My +t runs out of injector and is a hair before maf over voltage at 7 psi of boost. Probably not the case here but it can't hurt to measure. Collapse of intake hose should drop maf sensor voltage too.

About the learning, mine is super fast to adapt, could even throw in e85 and have it run good without reset (only tested up to 0 boost because I'd run out of injector flow). Its a few hours of driving to see where the wot mixture ends up. At least with 984 ecu and bti chips.
 
Oh hey, thanks for your reply, too.
I also have the issues of stuttering and cutoffs with ~7,25psi, as it seems.

I searched the forums and found an old thread, where you (if i remember correctly) had similar
problems and it turned out, that a faulty crank position sensor caused them.
Is this correct?

I have had so many issues it is hard to keep track of them these days.

I Recently i had some stumbling at lower boost and it turned out to be a torn IAC hose one time and another time it was spark plug gap was to big causing a misfire. the RPM could also be the cause depending on age (if you have never replaced it now is a good time so you shouldn't have to worry about it failing anytime soon anyways).


If you are able to monitor the afr's you might be having an overly rich condition.

What size amm? what size injectors? the chips you have are they tuned for a specific setup?
 
SOLVED!

Thanks for all the replies, guys.
Test drove the car today without airfilter and airfilterbox, only with AMM.
No more stuttering, no cut offs, it just pulls all the way to the redline (which is close to 7k now).

So, thanks again. Everyone who mentioned the collapsing hose was right...

yeah.. thats the problem.. you cannot reinforce something with an outer shell when it collapses.. ;) Your workaround would help on a boosthose, but not on the intake hose from the turboinlet.. you know? And your problems sound very familiar to an collapsing intake hose...

You were absolutely right, as i know now, @MadDog_945 and @thelostartof. :)
Those clamps were pretty useless.
 
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siehste wohl ;) Wobei ich nicht raffe, wieso das Weglassen des Luftfilters das bewirken solte? ist doch der Schlauch zwischen AMM und Turboinlet der zusammegezogen wird?
 
So you removed the hose between AMM and turbo too? Because from what I understand this is the hose that usually keeps collapsing and your test wouldn't make sense if you did not remove that hose, except if your airfilter / airbox is clogged / old?
 
yeah.. maybe you have that ethylenfoam in your airbox hanging from the ceiling, clogging your inlet towards the AMM when the flow gets high enough ;)
 
So you removed the hose between AMM and turbo too? Because from what I understand this is the hose that usually keeps collapsing and your test wouldn't make sense if you did not remove that hose, except if your airfilter / airbox is clogged / old?
By removing the airbox, vacuum can't build in the charge-hose because there's no restriction at the hose inlet.
Next step would be trying the stock airbox with no filter and (if there's still no collapsing issue) then a high-flow panel filter like K&N or IPD. If it still collapses with the stock airbox with no filter or with a high flow panel filter, then it's time for a custom solution like a pod-filter with a heat shield or a larger airbox from another car.
This is assuming that the car is running higher boost or a larger turbo which is flowing more air than the intake is capable of.
If the car was stock or within the flow rating of the stock airbox then yes, just get a new filter.
 
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