• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

Awesome. It's a little 'safer' to buy the G37/370 'JK' version, than the 'CD00?' G35/350 version. Once the sticker is worn off, it's almost implossible to tell what kind those are, but all the 'JK' versions are good.

I'm still waiting on that shifter for mine. Which is all right, but they won't answer emails. 1 email a solid month after sending them money, another one 2 weeks after that.

I just posted a question on his FB page asking for the delivery time for the forward mount shifter kit. We'll see if he answers!
 
He did *promptly* answer a couple of questions I had before ordering and paying.

Again, while I would like it now now now, I'm not going to be pissy about stuff like this taking a while. I'd just like some sort of heads up on very roughly how long it will be.
 
Quick question,in which way did you position the sts mounts? I notice that in one of your pictures the passenger side mount was interfering with the wastegate but in another picture. It seems like you had the bracket that sits on the block positioned different.
 
Two things going on over the course of fitting the engine in so far:

1) I swapped to a different set of manifolds. The first set was for a Nissan 240SX and fit a bit better on the non-turbo side, but tucked the turbo a bit too far back on the passenger side. The next set if so a Fox-body Mustang, and while there was a slight issue or two on the passenger side, nothing hard to fix. And the turbo sits a few inches further forward on the passenger side.

2) My H3 Alpha motor came with a driver's side motor mount on a metal bracket that repositioned the otherwise normal motor mount 1 1/4 inches further back. I initially set the motor in my car with the STS mounts directly on the block. And after a while pondering and looking at it, I just decided to avoid various fit issues* by moving the motor forward a bit. The Hooker oil pan had about 1 1/2 inch room to move forward, and I had this neat factory bracket for the driver's side that moved it forward 11 1/4 inch, and GM has a funny way of making things that have symmetrical bolt patterns that swap side to side and even upside down with no real issue, so I just got another bracket for the passenger side. I had to do a little light grinding here and there to fit it in properly. And between both metal plates, it widens the 'stance' of the STS mounts, so I had to drill a second set of holes for them in the crossmember, about 3/8" over on the passenger side (so the motor is moved to that side by roughly half that distance).

* - clearance issues solved by moving the motor forward:
- Bellhousing/trans tunnel. This would have required a fair amount of BFH work to fit the LS1 bellhousing in. Moving it forward places the tunnel opening further along the bellhousing taper, no hammering needed at all. In the original position, that center top bolt and the way the bellhousing rises to meet it was the main issue. I also pondered getting a much more compact steel bellhousing, which would have the side benefit of catching an exploding flywheel.
- Left side header/steering column. The headers I'm using are pretty compact, but not quite as compact as a flipped cast iron header. I already replaced the rubber isolated thick steering column with a plain metal tube, but it was going to take some more work to make it fit still. Moving it forward a bit, no problem.
- CD009 (actually JK40C) transmission - This is a long transmission. And it's wide way far back along the case, where the 240 tunnel starts tapering in. Even with it moved forward t e 1 1/4 inches I had to do a fair amount of BFH work in the tunnel, making room for the wide joint in the case, and the large 'bolts' where the shifter mechanism spring detent mechanisms are at the end. Not particularly noticeable from inside the car, but still, a lot of hammering going on underneath. If the engine was still sitting back, it would have needed a LOT more hammering, making the same width out of an even narrower part of the tunnel. On the plus side, the top mount shifter (the one I'm still waiting on) probably owuld have fit into the stock shifter opening a little better, as is it will need to reach back a couple of inches.
- downpipe clearance - there's not a whole lot of room for a 3" DP, but with the motor moved forward it just sort of snakes it's way on through without touching anything, and without bashing anything. Even with a stock cheap large starter.
 
I have a 3 inch downpipe on mine going straight down by the first 2 runners on the passenger side. I can send you some pictures but it's super simple
 
Finally heard back from the guy making the shifter. Something about his mill being killed in a lightning storm, and him setting up a new one.

Just waiting on one more piece to be made for the shifter, check back on Monday. w00t.

I've sort of been in limbo on this for a while. Partly waiting on parts, partly riding my bikes a lot, partly it's been mid-upper 90's and humid and it's no fun working on cars with sweat pouring off you.
 
w00t. Just got a shipping notification from CBF Performance. I may have a shifter finally.

It's been too hot to work on cars lately, plus I've just been riding my bike instead.
 
The 'shipping label printed' status hasn't budged since it was created. Nothing actually delivered to the post office as of this morning.
 
I don't think anyone else makes a shifter that will work.

Perhaps at some point, I'll just resign myself to making more changes to the trans tunnel than I was wanting to.
 
As you may know I'm also stuffing a CD009/LS in my 242. After seeing the trouble you are having getting an off the shelf shifter, I plan on making a custom shifter myself. This video shows what I have in mind, and it uses part of the stock Nissan shifter. At least on my car, something similar should fit without having to cut up the stock shifter opening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwh3S8SDnVg
 
From the way my engine sits in the car (and it's scooted forward about 1.25" from the stock STS mounting position) that wouldn't fit unless you shortened the shaft poking out back quite a bit.

At some point, however, I might have to start to make something like that work.

Shifter3.png
 
No. Just a shipping label created on July 11th.

I sent him an email yesterday. No response yet. I asked him is he could at least send part of the kit, enough that I could put the trans together and in the car.

I really haven't been that anxious about it, I've been on vacation for 2 weeks, plus it's usually too damn hot and humid to work on the car lately anyhow.

I just hope that I'll eventually get something other than a struggle to get my money back.
 
No. Just a shipping label created on July 11th.

I sent him an email yesterday. No response yet. I asked him is he could at least send part of the kit, enough that I could put the trans together and in the car.

I really haven't been that anxious about it, I've been on vacation for 2 weeks, plus it's usually too damn hot and humid to work on the car lately anyhow.

I just hope that I'll eventually get something other than a struggle to get my money back.

Every time I read these situations (and think back on RSI) I always think how easy it would be to have a successful shop. You need one guy who's good at fab, design, whatever you're trying to do; then you need one guy who has a SHRED of business and customer service skills - and you're golden. I'm continually amazed by how terrible car guys are at running a business.
 
Far too many businesses, auto repair among them, are simply unwilling to say "no" to or fire a bad customer.....so they can respond with a prompt YES to their good customers.
 
I'm trying to be a good customer. I just bug him once a month. I figure one way to get ignored indefinitely is to throw a pissy little fit and DEMAND service.

I'm about to try a different kind and see if it will work - the shortest one possible that fits behind the trans and have a lever extension that reaches forward.

One of the issues with that is that it's going to need some room on top of the trans, and I was trying to keep the top of the trans pretty close to the tunnel. The CD009 is a bulky, tall transmission and it seems to reach 'down' further than the M47 or T5 ever did.
 
Back
Top