1973 1800ES project - Page 2

Sir Psycho · 12-30-2009, 12:53 PM

Wuddup?

pat244ti · 01-03-2010, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sir Psycho

Wuddup?

She's on jackstands with nearly everything that was fastened/attached to the interior/engine bay sitting in my basement. Suspension is going off next.

Pictoral update coming soon. Especially when good ole' Kenny aka Redwood Chair comes and yanks his B20

Josh · 03-05-2010, 12:49 AM

any progress?

Sir Psycho · 05-05-2010, 02:55 PM

progress?

Redwood Chair · 05-05-2010, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sir Psycho

progress?

MS + B20 is the latest plan.

I begged him to keep it in there,

and apparently good sense prevailed.

pat244ti · 05-13-2010, 01:23 PM

^ That is true, except you didnt really beg me to keep it in there because you wanted it haha

Not much progress, the big progress will be getting it out of the driveway and into the garage up top so I can work on it there instead of having it outside, will be much better.

badvlvo · 05-13-2010, 01:56 PM

Ah, progress. I am looking forward to this progress.

SwedishBrick242... · 05-13-2010, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brickster151

Not much progress, the big progress will be getting it out of the driveway and into the garage up top so I can work on it there instead of having it outside, will be much better.

Yeah, your driveway is pretty crazy. You drop a socket at the top of it and you will have to walk a quarter mile to fetch it... uphill... both ways...

Hell, I'd probably call AAA to come move it

Redwood Chair · 05-13-2010, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brickster151

^ That is true, except you didnt really beg me to keep it in there because you wanted it haha

Not much progress, the big progress will be getting it out of the driveway and into the garage up top so I can work on it there instead of having it outside, will be much better.

Don't get me wrong.
I'm still first in line for a freshly rebuilt B20 should you decide to abandon it.
I hope.

Good luck on the build.
LMK if you need a hand with the bodywork I have some fancy materials on loan for a while.

drturbo · 05-14-2010, 01:08 AM

I may have solved your tailgate woes. X-Ray Auto in Seattle has the sheet metal for the rear of the car (from above the glass to the bottom seam, to each tail light. Essentially it's a used weld-in panel. I would have gotten it, but they want $1000 for it. I thought I'd be better at trying to fab sections from a rusted rear end section I got with my ES (and it worked).

Here's their contact info:

2639 NW Market St
Seattle, WA 98107
Neighborhood: Ballard
(206) 789-5455

I've been to their shop. I was droolin' all over the place with the cars they were workin' on and the spare parts they had. They are great people to work with as well.

pat244ti · 11-15-2010, 05:35 AM

So this is back rolling again sorta.

Last week I picked up a 87' 744ti from RyanHackett. It was free, but it was missing a few things [turbo/ic/piping] and the engine apparently had a dead hole [which I might investigate] on a non-skinny rod block. I paid Henry [urbanwheeler] pretty much in whatever he wanted off the car [aside from a couple things] in exchange for making it a shell [for a V8 lemons car]

Mostly picked it up to grab the harness/ECU's/etc to go along with the 94' b230ft I never was able to sell to swap in the ES. Mount solution/b20 oil pan/etc is already figured out, but next is the trans. Other than that, bodywork is the main focus.

Volvo Heretic · 11-26-2010, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brickster151

[also I don't know if I'd want that much heat that close the upper-A arm bushings, speaking of those I also want to lower the mounting points for more camber].

Just lowering the suspension to where it belongs, the upper control arms will be too short and give you massive negitive camber. Lowering the upper control arm inner pivots will only make it worse. Somebody should make longer tubular upper control arms.

tiredoldtommy · 11-26-2010, 04:38 PM

You mean you're not going to restore it to stock and give it your mom, like a good son?

pat244ti · 11-28-2010, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tlcallaway

You mean you're not going to restore it to stock and give it your mom, like a good son?

I gave her two options

1) Totally stock. Less power, less overall fun, less reliability, more desirable when completed due to being stock but would end up costing more.

2) Have a beautiful rare cool car that hauls ass in a reliable manner and spend 1/2 to 2/3 as much doing it

She was cool with option two.

pat244ti · 01-30-2011, 05:42 PM

Updates

the good news-

*the rust was hardly a big deal on it [mostly surface, and fixed now], body is almost a shell and ready for paint [still need to find a trick to get the inner door handles off so I can get the door panels off, also need to remove the rear side glass]. Numerous other dents are gone.

*B23FT I picked up is opened up getting all new seals/gaskets, everything inside looks good. Also scored a 90+ and a 16t.

*Got the T5 for it, just gotta get some money together to send to Dale for the adapter. Also need to get a B20 bellhousing back from Redwood Chair.

*Got seats from a 02' MBZ SL500, not crazy racing seats but comfortable, supportive, powered and heated.

*Got nice 15'' mesh Enkei's to put on it, currently in the middle of polishing the lips [centers will be black]

the bad news

*I don't have a way to upload pics to show said progress

*I gotta put the car on the shelf for a month or two and finish other projects

*The a-hole I share my shop with stacked a ton of stuff on top of the pile of trim I removed from the car, bending some of them. I'd like to kill him but I need someone to pay the other half of rent on the shop I guess....

Sir Psycho · 03-24-2014, 04:48 PM

Whatever happened to this?

pat244ti · 07-15-2014, 11:57 AM

I have been keeping it and all of the associated parts in storage.

Sometime in between, about a year or so ago, I did have a place to work on it. Got the LH 2.2 harness built among other small things.

I recently acquired a shop space and moved everything over there, I plan on starting it again soon. I'm thinking about just tossing the drivetrain in and getting it going, and worrying about the whole gnarly restoration later.

pat244ti · 06-27-2015, 01:29 PM

Wooohooo an update!

B23FT is almost ready to go in! Ordered a baffle box, plate and B20 oil pump from Hi-Performance Auto. Once that stuff is in the pan will go on and she will finally go in the engine bay.

Details about the engine -

120k B23FT bottom end with fresh seals and gaskets
AN 10 return [Yoshifab's kit]
AN 10 crankcase vent [Yoshifab]
B20 oil pump/pan with early B21 oil delivery pipe
398 SCP head w/K cam & adjustable gear
Custom intake manifold [B21F intake with shorted runners and Yoshifab custom plenum]
90+ exhaust manifold with 19T

pat244ti · 10-23-2015, 12:17 AM

Update again -

After losing storage space on the car, I almost sold it. But I decided to actually send the car off to get the rust fixed on it. I found the perfect person to do the work - he has done all the bodywork for a well known VCOA guy who deals with a lot of 1800's.

Very excited about this

wouters · 10-23-2015, 05:08 AM

Hi mate,

I was in Santa Cruz during August, should have come to see this beauty

Can't wait to see pictures, and good point for the rust repair !!

quillc · 10-28-2015, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pat244ti

B20 oil pump

What is the difference between the B20 oil pump and the B21/23/230 oil pump? Is there an advantage to using the B20 pump?

pat244ti · 10-29-2015, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quillc

What is the difference between the B20 oil pump and the B21/23/230 oil pump? Is there an advantage to using the B20 pump?

Not really an advantage, it is done to run a b20 pan on the B23FT so it can be mounted upright.

pat244ti · 11-02-2015, 03:24 PM

So yesterday, I got a mixture of motivation and laziness - so instead of dropping in the B23FT I have for test fitment, which would have involved borrowing a load leveler, and schlepping my crane from the other side of my house [which involves a truck since I live on a hill], I simply took a bare B230FT block I have, bolted the adapter mounts to it, and set it in the engine bay by hand. I slapped a junk head on it, as well as a T3 bolted to a old style manifold

I plan on running a 90+ with a K24 or 19T, either of which should be much smaller than the old style manifold with a T3. Should have more room with a smaller turbo.

The intake manifold has obvious clearing issues, even without the giant master cylinder/brake booster which I am trying to retain. My plan for it is to cut the flange and about 3-4'' of runner, weld a couple of 2'' 90 degree elbows to the end into some velocity stacks inside of a nice sized plenum. I think with the runners already at a 45 angle and the additional 90's, it will tilt the plenum under the booster and master. I might have to cut an edge of the plenum to clear the steering shaft. I am running a Yoshifab CCV plate in place of the normal big plastic box, so that will be fine

The nose of the car, while unique, also makes things very tough as far as mounting a radiator that will suitably cool a turbo engine, on top of an intercooler and oil cooler. I have found that a Mini Cooper S or Saab Viggen intercooler will work well with the nose. For the cold side outlet, I will have to cut into some sheet metal. I am trying hard NOT to cut into the body of the car but that is one spot that I can't really avoid. With the engine also in place, I have 9.5'' of clearance from the block to frame rail where the radiator sits. The water pump needs at least 6''. I found a radiator on ebay that is crossflow [stock turbo redblock style] but similar dimensions to the upflow stock 1800 radiator [16'' X 20''].

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Northern-209...5ULZ79&vxp=mtr

With that radiator, I only have about 1.5''-2'' of space. Standard electric fans with center mount motors will not clear, I have found an alternative and while expensive, I think it will give me enough space to make it all fit with the water pump pulley.

http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/side....html?cPath=31

I'm also thinking of running a standard fan, that radiator, and an electric water pump with a machined outlet to fit in place of the water pump.

pat244ti · 07-27-2016, 08:39 PM

rust is gone.

making it a driver here soon. probably going b20+t5

Tfrasca · 07-27-2016, 10:03 PM

Do you have a b20?

12-30-2009, 12:53 PM	#26
Sir Psycho holstrich 2.0 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Austin TX	Wuddup? __________________ Isaac 1995 940 Turbo: 531 head, Holset HE351 @ 20 psi, Emusa External Wastegate w/screamer, Mild Steel Header, 4" Downpipe, Ostrich Emulator, IPD Turbo Cam, TTR Cam Gear, Big Piping and Intercooler, 3" Exhaust, V8 T5 soon, Synapse Synchronic BOV, AEM Wideband, 18" Pegasus, B&G Springs, Billy HD's, Chassis Bracing, Sumimoto HTR ZIII 225/40/18

05-13-2010, 01:56 PM	#32
badvlvo Bad for Babies Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Marina, California	Ah, progress. I am looking forward to this progress. __________________ RIP BADVLVO 3/1/1980-10/10/2015 Died at age 35 93 245 m47 300k miles, one owner, zero compression

05-14-2010, 01:08 AM	#35
drturbo Visit Swedishiron.com Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Kent, WA	I may have solved your tailgate woes. X-Ray Auto in Seattle has the sheet metal for the rear of the car (from above the glass to the bottom seam, to each tail light. Essentially it's a used weld-in panel. I would have gotten it, but they want $1000 for it. I thought I'd be better at trying to fab sections from a rusted rear end section I got with my ES (and it worked). Here's their contact info: 2639 NW Market St Seattle, WA 98107 Neighborhood: Ballard (206) 789-5455 I've been to their shop. I was droolin' all over the place with the cars they were workin' on and the spare parts they had. They are great people to work with as well. __________________ Check out my excellent feedback! Need a part? Visit Swedishiron.com! Send me a PM or email with your want list!

11-26-2010, 04:38 PM	#38
tiredoldtommy Board Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Antlers, OK	You mean you're not going to restore it to stock and give it your mom, like a good son? __________________ ---------------------------------------------- When you're a tired old gimp², you get easy to please. ---------------------------------------------- '03 C70 HPT drop top 95k (stylin cruiser) '83 242 turbo, 305k (ridge runner) '84 245 NA, 248k (hauler/tractor) '66 New Yorker, 440 4bbl (needs a new home) '84 244tic (project or parts? definitely parts)

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03-05-2010, 12:49 AM	#28
Josh Board Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Portland, OR	any progress?

05-05-2010, 02:55 PM	#29
Sir Psycho holstrich 2.0 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Austin TX	progress?

05-13-2010, 01:23 PM	#31
pat244ti Moderator Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Santa Cruz CA	^ That is true, except you didnt really beg me to keep it in there because you wanted it haha Not much progress, the big progress will be getting it out of the driveway and into the garage up top so I can work on it there instead of having it outside, will be much better.

11-15-2010, 05:35 AM	#36
pat244ti Moderator Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Santa Cruz CA	So this is back rolling again sorta. Last week I picked up a 87' 744ti from RyanHackett. It was free, but it was missing a few things [turbo/ic/piping] and the engine apparently had a dead hole [which I might investigate] on a non-skinny rod block. I paid Henry [urbanwheeler] pretty much in whatever he wanted off the car [aside from a couple things] in exchange for making it a shell [for a V8 lemons car] Mostly picked it up to grab the harness/ECU's/etc to go along with the 94' b230ft I never was able to sell to swap in the ES. Mount solution/b20 oil pan/etc is already figured out, but next is the trans. Other than that, bodywork is the main focus.

01-30-2011, 05:42 PM	#40
pat244ti Moderator Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Santa Cruz CA	Updates the good news- the rust was hardly a big deal on it [mostly surface, and fixed now], body is almost a shell and ready for paint [still need to find a trick to get the inner door handles off so I can get the door panels off, also need to remove the rear side glass]. Numerous other dents are gone. B23FT I picked up is opened up getting all new seals/gaskets, everything inside looks good. Also scored a 90+ and a 16t. Got the T5 for it, just gotta get some money together to send to Dale for the adapter. Also need to get a B20 bellhousing back from Redwood Chair. Got seats from a 02' MBZ SL500, not crazy racing seats but comfortable, supportive, powered and heated. Got nice 15'' mesh Enkei's to put on it, currently in the middle of polishing the lips [centers will be black] the bad news I don't have a way to upload pics to show said progress I gotta put the car on the shelf for a month or two and finish other projects The a-hole I share my shop with stacked a ton of stuff on top of the pile of trim I removed from the car, bending some of them. I'd like to kill him but I need someone to pay the other half of rent on the shop I guess....

03-24-2014, 04:48 PM	#41
Sir Psycho holstrich 2.0 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Austin TX	Whatever happened to this?

07-15-2014, 11:57 AM	#42
pat244ti Moderator Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Santa Cruz CA	I have been keeping it and all of the associated parts in storage. Sometime in between, about a year or so ago, I did have a place to work on it. Got the LH 2.2 harness built among other small things. I recently acquired a shop space and moved everything over there, I plan on starting it again soon. I'm thinking about just tossing the drivetrain in and getting it going, and worrying about the whole gnarly restoration later.

06-27-2015, 01:29 PM	#43
pat244ti Moderator Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Santa Cruz CA	Wooohooo an update! B23FT is almost ready to go in! Ordered a baffle box, plate and B20 oil pump from Hi-Performance Auto. Once that stuff is in the pan will go on and she will finally go in the engine bay. Details about the engine - 120k B23FT bottom end with fresh seals and gaskets AN 10 return [Yoshifab's kit] AN 10 crankcase vent [Yoshifab] B20 oil pump/pan with early B21 oil delivery pipe 398 SCP head w/K cam & adjustable gear Custom intake manifold [B21F intake with shorted runners and Yoshifab custom plenum] 90+ exhaust manifold with 19T

10-23-2015, 12:17 AM	#44
pat244ti Moderator Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Santa Cruz CA	Update again - After losing storage space on the car, I almost sold it. But I decided to actually send the car off to get the rust fixed on it. I found the perfect person to do the work - he has done all the bodywork for a well known VCOA guy who deals with a lot of 1800's. Very excited about this

10-23-2015, 05:08 AM	#45
wouters Board Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Belgium	Hi mate, I was in Santa Cruz during August, should have come to see this beauty Can't wait to see pictures, and good point for the rust repair !!

11-02-2015, 03:24 PM	#48
pat244ti Moderator Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Santa Cruz CA	So yesterday, I got a mixture of motivation and laziness - so instead of dropping in the B23FT I have for test fitment, which would have involved borrowing a load leveler, and schlepping my crane from the other side of my house [which involves a truck since I live on a hill], I simply took a bare B230FT block I have, bolted the adapter mounts to it, and set it in the engine bay by hand. I slapped a junk head on it, as well as a T3 bolted to a old style manifold I plan on running a 90+ with a K24 or 19T, either of which should be much smaller than the old style manifold with a T3. Should have more room with a smaller turbo. The intake manifold has obvious clearing issues, even without the giant master cylinder/brake booster which I am trying to retain. My plan for it is to cut the flange and about 3-4'' of runner, weld a couple of 2'' 90 degree elbows to the end into some velocity stacks inside of a nice sized plenum. I think with the runners already at a 45 angle and the additional 90's, it will tilt the plenum under the booster and master. I might have to cut an edge of the plenum to clear the steering shaft. I am running a Yoshifab CCV plate in place of the normal big plastic box, so that will be fine The nose of the car, while unique, also makes things very tough as far as mounting a radiator that will suitably cool a turbo engine, on top of an intercooler and oil cooler. I have found that a Mini Cooper S or Saab Viggen intercooler will work well with the nose. For the cold side outlet, I will have to cut into some sheet metal. I am trying hard NOT to cut into the body of the car but that is one spot that I can't really avoid. With the engine also in place, I have 9.5'' of clearance from the block to frame rail where the radiator sits. The water pump needs at least 6''. I found a radiator on ebay that is crossflow [stock turbo redblock style] but similar dimensions to the upflow stock 1800 radiator [16'' X 20'']. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Northern-209...5ULZ79&vxp=mtr With that radiator, I only have about 1.5''-2'' of space. Standard electric fans with center mount motors will not clear, I have found an alternative and while expensive, I think it will give me enough space to make it all fit with the water pump pulley. http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/side....html?cPath=31 I'm also thinking of running a standard fan, that radiator, and an electric water pump with a machined outlet to fit in place of the water pump.

07-27-2016, 08:39 PM	#49
pat244ti Moderator Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Santa Cruz CA	rust is gone. making it a driver here soon. probably going b20+t5

07-27-2016, 10:03 PM	#50
Tfrasca Board Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Ben Lomond, CA	Do you have a b20?