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Refreshing suspension on the 240

yamaman

yamaman

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2017
Location
Taiwan
Hello fellow brickers!! First post here. Just bought a 1991 Volvo 240 gle last week. Immediately took it on a 1,200km trip. Although it only has a little over 100,000 KM on the clock, the suspension has seen better days. So the first mod I’m planning on doing is to replace all suspension bushing with polyurethane ones. I’ve tried using the search features but some of the threads were pretty dated so I thought I’ll get an update input from people that has done this upgrade.

Obviously there’s IPD and Superpro. From what I understand IPD uses the superpro bushings and adds additional outer metal sleeves in their kit.

My question is where’s the best place to order the whole kit? And does the new outer sleeve from IPD’s kit worth the extra coin?

Any input/information on the poly suspension bushing would be greatly appreciated! Thank everyone in advance for helping a Volvo newbie out!!
 
IPD doesn't use/do anything different than SuperPro afaik.

I wouldn't suggest going all poly unless that is really desired. For a lot of the bushings the rubber is plenty fine unless you're cranking boost or going sideways. BUT poly can be an upgrade in SELECTED areas.

Some of the bushings require special tools NLA so a shop press and some home built devices are necessary (specifically the rear REAR trailing arm bushes) IF you intend to replace that sleeve.

In terms of bushings... I think FCP and IPD and everyone else has "kits" available. If not, you can def call them and they'll get you set up. Replacing the bushings isn't a bad idea btw... but your tired suspension is probably more in the line of the struts and even the springs.

The fronts that you'd need would be:
LCA front and rear
Front sway has 2 (plus end links which also have their own bushings)
Motor mounts if you care.

The rears are:
Rear trailing arms have a front (need press) and a rear (need special tool and needs to be done in situ)
Torque rods (press or saw) have 2 each
Panhard bar has 2 (press or saw)

I think that's it.
Trans mount is 1 technically and the center driveshaft bearing has a bushing but I'd leave that be tbh.
 
EivlEvo said:
IPD doesn't use/do anything different than SuperPro afaik.

I wouldn't suggest going all poly unless that is really desired. For a lot of the bushings the rubber is plenty fine unless you're cranking boost or going sideways. BUT poly can be an upgrade in SELECTED areas.

Some of the bushings require special tools NLA so a shop press and some home built devices are necessary (specifically the rear REAR trailing arm bushes) IF you intend to replace that sleeve.

In terms of bushings... I think FCP and IPD and everyone else has "kits" available. If not, you can def call them and they'll get you set up. Replacing the bushings isn't a bad idea btw... but your tired suspension is probably more in the line of the struts and even the springs.

The fronts that you'd need would be:
LCA front and rear
Front sway has 2 (plus end links which also have their own bushings)
Motor mounts if you care.

The rears are:
Rear trailing arms have a front (need press) and a rear (need special tool and needs to be done in situ)
Torque rods (press or saw) have 2 each
Panhard bar has 2 (press or saw)

I think that's it.
Trans mount is 1 technically and the center driveshaft bearing has a bushing but I'd leave that be tbh.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replay buddy!! Do you mind elaborate a little bit on which bushings would benefit the most from polys and which ones to retain OEM rubber? I'm not sure if I'm following the logic.

I am aware that for certain bushing homemade tools are required, I've seen it being discussed during my research. But still thank you so much for the heads up!!
 
The IPD lower trailing arm sleeve doesn't press fully in because it's not properly tapered, so if you're going poly in that position you're better off to hole saw / carve / wire wheel out the old bushing and leave the original shell in place, that said for all practical purposes and on a budget pressing in some lemforders from the usual suspects is best.

NB:

If using rubber tighten the bolts with the suspension loaded so you don't induce a pre twisted up (loaded) bushing.
 
Redwood Chair said:
The IPD lower trailing arm sleeve doesn't press fully in because it's not properly tapered, so if you're going poly in that position you're better off to hole saw / carve / wire wheel out the old bushing and leave the original shell in place, that said for all practical purposes and on a budget pressing in some lemforders from the usual suspects is best.

NB:

If using rubber tighten the bolts with the suspension loaded so you don't induce a pre twisted up (loaded) bushing.
Click to expand...

No they changed it. When I got mine they had the tapers.
 
yamaman said:
Thanks for the replay buddy!! Do you mind elaborate a little bit on which bushings would benefit the most from polys and which ones to retain OEM rubber? I'm not sure if I'm following the logic.

I am aware that for certain bushing homemade tools are required, I've seen it being discussed during my research. But still thank you so much for the heads up!!
Click to expand...

It depends on what you're trying to do.

If you're putting poly in simply because of "longevity" or "it's better" then I guess qualify that? The Volvo bushings that were on there aren't inherently bad. Rubber isn't "bad", it's just softer than poly.

Currently the only bushings on my car that are NOT poly are my front control arms (because I haven't done them yet) my motor mounts (because I just got my poly mounts off of my old car), the FRONT bushing on the REAR trailing arms (I left them rubber) and my panhard bar because I haven't gotten to it yet.

But my purposes may have been different than yours. And I may be lazier than you.
 
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