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Uncleknucklez 242 road ripper

Uncleknucklez said:
That's actually a really good idea, I will try the spring on the WGA, currently it is the 13c unit, I pulled all the rods and picked the stiffest, super scientific.
Click to expand...

If you have a Mityvac that can both blow and suck, and a dial indicator, you can get a good estimate of the boost pressure at which your actuator starts to open. Put the dial indicator shaft in line with the actuator rod, at the tip, and zero it. Then plumb your Mityvac (or other controllable pressure source w/ gauge) into the port and start pumping it up. When the dial indicator reaches about 0.040" (1.00mm), read the pressure on the gauge, and that's going to be pretty close to the effective setpoint...if you're running straight into the actuator without an MBC or EBC of course.

Edit: bypass the MBC when you do this. Probably worth clarifying.
 
^^^^ = truth. Also if you have an actuator that's close to the range you want, run the pressure up to where you plan to run it, adjust the eyelet to 1/2 turn short of sliding over the arm, should be pretty close. I went that route when setting up the Forge in the wagon, sits at 20psi except for an initial spike if I mat it and downshift with the throttle, then it'll hit 22 and drop down.
 
Duder said:
If you have a Mityvac that can both blow and suck, and a dial indicator, you can get a good estimate of the boost pressure at which your actuator starts to open. Put the dial indicator shaft in line with the actuator rod, at the tip, and zero it. Then plumb your Mityvac (or other controllable pressure source w/ gauge) into the port and start pumping it up. When the dial indicator reaches about 0.040" (1.00mm), read the pressure on the gauge, and that's going to be pretty close to the effective setpoint...if you're running straight into the actuator without an MBC or EBC of course.

Edit: bypass the MBC when you do this. Probably worth clarifying.
Click to expand...

I don't have a Mityvac, But I should get one. This is a great easy test for all WGA me thinks.

gsellstr said:
^^^^ = truth. Also if you have an actuator that's close to the range you want, run the pressure up to where you plan to run it, adjust the eyelet to 1/2 turn short of sliding over the arm, should be pretty close. I went that route when setting up the Forge in the wagon, sits at 20psi except for an initial spike if I mat it and downshift with the throttle, then it'll hit 22 and drop down.
Click to expand...

So after a few days of letting the 'puter re-learn, the WGA and associated rigging is highly suspect. Car spikes to 20 psi in second gear (MBC is set around 15 psi) and then settles to the 15. Car hits 15 lbs in 3rd through 5th gear fine so far.

I would like to turn up the wick a bit to 18-20 psi, but I don't want it overboosting to 25 psi in second gear :omg: So a new WGA is on the list, as well as a rethink on mounting, I currently am using the ubiquitous A/C bracket, which works, but there is still more flex than I would like.
 
I did a thing yesterday! All told I have like 15 plus hours sanding and polish the lips, I had our painter at my shop spray the centers a nice gold, and new stainless hardware. I am beyond pleased. :boink:

fPZCZAq.jpg

(for the record, that is not me, but this les schwab guy was loving the car)

E8FnM2Kl.jpg


Dolla bill lip shot yo
G6qZdu7l.jpg


So now I still have to finish the A/C wiring, and fix the GD speedo! But it is IPD ready me thinks, and I am pumped.
 
Yesss. Wheels look so good. This car is low key, yet really nicely modded. My kind of build. Nice work.
 
+1 wheels look really good! Not envious of all the sanding tho :)

:lol: at the "Pegamoose" fender stickers, good stuff.

Re: WGA
Have you tried backing off the preload at all? I had to reduce the preload (extend the WGA rod) a bit to reduce spiking.
 
What all did you have to do to get that 940 down pipe to fit? I'm looking at my 740 pipe trying to figure out what I need to do to fit my 245, and yours looks a lot simpler than what I had figured out
 
Uncleknucklez said:
I did a thing yesterday! All told I have like 15 plus hours sanding and polish the lips, I had our painter at my shop spray the centers a nice gold, and new stainless hardware. I am beyond pleased. :boink:

fPZCZAq.jpg

(for the record, that is not me, but this les schwab guy was loving the car)

E8FnM2Kl.jpg


Dolla bill lip shot yo
G6qZdu7l.jpg


So now I still have to finish the A/C wiring, and fix the GD speedo! But it is IPD ready me thinks, and I am pumped.
Click to expand...

So are you driving that bling up for IPD? I have detailing supplies.
 
SquareD said:
Yesss. Wheels look so good. This car is low key, yet really nicely modded. My kind of build. Nice work.
Click to expand...

Damn that is high praise from you man, your car is inspiring and tastefully modded. Thank you.

oldschoolvolvo said:
+1 wheels look really good! Not envious of all the sanding tho :)

:lol: at the "Pegamoose" fender stickers, good stuff.

Re: WGA
Have you tried backing off the preload at all? I had to reduce the preload (extend the WGA rod) a bit to reduce spiking.
Click to expand...

Fair use Pegamoose!

I will actually try and reduce the pre-load and see if that helps, though my 13C WGA isn't adjustable (not threaded on the end) so I will have to get clever with the shimming.

Harlard said:
So are you driving that bling up for IPD? I have detailing supplies.
Click to expand...

Plan is to drive up Thursday the 17th and chill the 18th. Shoot me a PM with yo numba and I will text you when we get there.
 
slow240 said:
What all did you have to do to get that 940 down pipe to fit? I'm looking at my 740 pipe trying to figure out what I need to do to fit my 245, and yours looks a lot simpler than what I had figured out
Click to expand...

It's got a couple inches cut out of it, and then a slight twist when it got welded back together.

Just get a couple 3" Mandrel 90s and build a real DP if you can man, The 940 piece always rubbed somewhere, and I was never happy with it. My new DP is literally just two 3" 90's shortened a bit and welded together with some bungs thrown in for good mix. It's the only way to fly really.
 
Uncleknucklez said:
I don't have a Mityvac, But I should get one. This is a great easy test for all WGA me thinks.
Click to expand...

Just make sure it's the deluxe model that can produce both positive pressure and vacuum. There are cheaper vacuum-only versions.

If you have an air compressor handy with an adjustable pressure regulator and a pressure gauge, you can accomplish the same thing. The trick would be using a gauge that is accurate below 20 psi.
 
Chris...we're rolling up thursday after work, crashing at a buddy's place in Shasta, then rolling the rest of the way on Friday, back home on monday. Lemme know if you wanna tag along, I can see if there's an extra couch.

Sounds like you may just need the other actuator to trim the spike. When you have something with enough return tension without having to preload the **** out of it, that spike tends to go away pretty quick. I still get around 2psi on just the actuator with an 18psi spring in it and about 1/8" of preload to keep it at around 20.
 
gsellstr said:
Chris...we're rolling up thursday after work, crashing at a buddy's place in Shasta, then rolling the rest of the way on Friday, back home on monday. Lemme know if you wanna tag along, I can see if there's an extra couch.

Sounds like you may just need the other actuator to trim the spike. When you have something with enough return tension without having to preload the **** out of it, that spike tends to go away pretty quick. I still get around 2psi on just the actuator with an 18psi spring in it and about 1/8" of preload to keep it at around 20.
Click to expand...

What, no more crashing on my pullout for you anymore? I see how it is.
 
Duder said:
Just make sure it's the deluxe model that can produce both positive pressure and vacuum. There are cheaper vacuum-only versions.

If you have an air compressor handy with an adjustable pressure regulator and a pressure gauge, you can accomplish the same thing. The trick would be using a gauge that is accurate below 20 psi.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up, I will for sure get a mode that can suck and blow ;)

gsellstr said:
Chris...we're rolling up thursday after work, crashing at a buddy's place in Shasta, then rolling the rest of the way on Friday, back home on monday. Lemme know if you wanna tag along, I can see if there's an extra couch.

Sounds like you may just need the other actuator to trim the spike. When you have something with enough return tension without having to preload the **** out of it, that spike tends to go away pretty quick. I still get around 2psi on just the actuator with an 18psi spring in it and about 1/8" of preload to keep it at around 20.
Click to expand...

Plan as of now is for the Mrs and I to leave Thursday early AM and straight shot to Lake Oswego where our friends live now, but plan to ride back Monday. Maybe we can make the return trip together. I?ll keep you posted.
 
gsellstr said:
Sure thing Chris, we can talk up there.
Click to expand...

For sure Gary, I'm so excite for IPD this year!


So, Now that everything is pretty sorted on the car, I'm on to my next "issue"

Car runs rich on the freeway, at 10 inches of vacuum, 3,000 RPM, 80 MPH, the car runs at 12.5-13.0 AFR according to my AEM WB.

Idles perfect, 14.7-15.0, then it seems to go richer and richer as it warms up. I am going to check voltages on the O2, this feels like an O2 failure (I recall the computer relies on the O2 after the car comes up to operating temp), but am open to some other diag ideas.

It has been doing this for a week or so (before I changed the turbo/DP) and I should have diagnosed it before I did all kinds of other stuff. It has been worse recently though, and this AM it cruised my 13 miles to work at 12.0-12.5 AFR.

So I guess I will pull the covers and start probing around.
 
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