M.H. Yount
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2008
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
That might scare him off.....lol!
-
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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)
- Thread starter JohnMc
- Start date
That might scare him off.....lol!
poulrais
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2006
- Location
- Quebec, CAN
On second thoughts you're probably right!
But jokes aside, why would he have to worry? He gets paid up front so all he has to do is deliver the goods?
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2002
This is true. I have been following this closely with the same thought.
poulrais
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2006
- Location
- Quebec, CAN
poulrais
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2006
- Location
- Quebec, CAN
So? 
I have a shifter. It looks awesome. I need to pull the tail housing off the trans to install it, but it's all here and looks good.
One small issue - I had ordered an offset shifter lever - $40 option. He sent the straight shifter lever. I sent him an email.
But that can go on later, after the trans is in the car.
One small issue - I had ordered an offset shifter lever - $40 option. He sent the straight shifter lever. I sent him an email.
But that can go on later, after the trans is in the car.
poulrais
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2006
- Location
- Quebec, CAN
Nice! Can't wait for the pics!
He already mailed me back this morning and said he's going to send me the offset shift lever. If it takes 3 months again, not a big deal at this point, it's not holding back further work.
Hopefully the tailshaft housing isn't too much of a PITA to deal with - it doesn't look too bad. Drive out a pin, slide the existing... whatever you'd call it on the shifter rod (it interacts with several springs to give the lever its positioning and feel) and replace it with the new one. Then back together, and the new shifter plate goes on the top, replacing the sheet metal top cover.
Hopefully the tailshaft housing isn't too much of a PITA to deal with - it doesn't look too bad. Drive out a pin, slide the existing... whatever you'd call it on the shifter rod (it interacts with several springs to give the lever its positioning and feel) and replace it with the new one. Then back together, and the new shifter plate goes on the top, replacing the sheet metal top cover.
poulrais
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2006
- Location
- Quebec, CAN
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2002
- Location
- mont, AL
awesome! where are the damn pics?!
Pics!
Here's the main part - the shifter lever cover that replaces the sheet metal cover on the top of the CD009 case. It has the reverse lockout gate on it - you push the lever down about 1/4 of an inch to get into reverse.
The underside, where it looks like it was milled out late in the process (part of what held it up? Who knows?):
The replacement doohickey for the shifter rod that has the spot on it for the shifter lever, along with another roll pin and a replacement bracket for one of the shifter detents inside the trans:
A look at the trans itself. The doohickey being replaced is pretty much in the center. You have to remove the tailhousing, remove a roll pin, and slide that off.
Because the new piece is wider to make room for the shifter lever interacting with it, the detent spring that currently operates directly on the shaft needs to move back slightly, thus the new bracket.
Shifter sitting on the trans:
Here's the main part - the shifter lever cover that replaces the sheet metal cover on the top of the CD009 case. It has the reverse lockout gate on it - you push the lever down about 1/4 of an inch to get into reverse.
The underside, where it looks like it was milled out late in the process (part of what held it up? Who knows?):
The replacement doohickey for the shifter rod that has the spot on it for the shifter lever, along with another roll pin and a replacement bracket for one of the shifter detents inside the trans:
A look at the trans itself. The doohickey being replaced is pretty much in the center. You have to remove the tailhousing, remove a roll pin, and slide that off.
Because the new piece is wider to make room for the shifter lever interacting with it, the detent spring that currently operates directly on the shaft needs to move back slightly, thus the new bracket.
Shifter sitting on the trans:
Took off the various shifter detents (3 of them), the two switches (neutral and reverse), and a whole bunch of 12mm bolts, a little light tapping, tiny bit of prying, and the tailshaft housing came off. You have to pay some attention that the center section, which those bolts hold on to the main case as well, doesn't come out, I think you have a much bigger task if that happens. But no issues here for me. Then tap out the roll pin (and its tinier locking roll pin that goes inside it!) and slide off the 'striker' plate - which mostly seems to just interact with some of the shifter detent springs. This leaves the shifter rod as the longest thing poking out of the back of the trans.
So... you chop it off. I laid a towel over the trans to prevent metal bits from falling down into it. *angle grinder noises*
The new striker plate, with a socket for the shift lever, goes onto the cut off end of the shaft, secured to the orignal hole with the original roll pin:
The shifter rod still needs support at the back end of the case, even though you chopped it in half to make room for the shift lever. So you flip the cut off end of the shifter rod around, and utilize the existing hole that was used for the stock shifter u-joint, and secure that in the new striker plate with another roll pin:
Then some cleaning of the mating surfaces and some FIPG, and a little wiggling and finessing, and the tailshaft housing slides back on:
The shifter detents that used to be carved into the shifter rod itself are now moved over, on the new striker plate - to make room for the shift lever socket. The stock detent is used, just a replacement bracket that repositions it:
All the shifter detents back in place. The spring hanging out of the face of the transmission pushes a little ball bearing into one of the shifter detents - yes, one of the detents has it's own smaller detent. All part of making 4 shift 'lanes' I guess. Smeared with a little green grease to keep it slippery until it's full of oil.
Last but not least - shifter lever and cover in place. After adjusting the 5-6 'gate/reverse lockout plate - now it goes into all 6 gears, and once the shift lever is pushed down about 1/4 inch (or less) reverse as well.
Then it started raining, and I didn't get the very last task done - trimming off the remainder of the shifter rod that still pokes out of the back of the transmission. 10 seconds iwth an angle grinder and that will be done.
And that's the CBF Performance top mount shifter install.
Note: FWIW, and I certainly don't need it at all, but the new striker plate has nothing carved into it to activate the neutral switch. I screwed the switch into the case just to keep the oil in, but it won't do anything. The reverse switch works,however.
So... you chop it off. I laid a towel over the trans to prevent metal bits from falling down into it. *angle grinder noises*
The new striker plate, with a socket for the shift lever, goes onto the cut off end of the shaft, secured to the orignal hole with the original roll pin:
The shifter rod still needs support at the back end of the case, even though you chopped it in half to make room for the shift lever. So you flip the cut off end of the shifter rod around, and utilize the existing hole that was used for the stock shifter u-joint, and secure that in the new striker plate with another roll pin:
Then some cleaning of the mating surfaces and some FIPG, and a little wiggling and finessing, and the tailshaft housing slides back on:
The shifter detents that used to be carved into the shifter rod itself are now moved over, on the new striker plate - to make room for the shift lever socket. The stock detent is used, just a replacement bracket that repositions it:
All the shifter detents back in place. The spring hanging out of the face of the transmission pushes a little ball bearing into one of the shifter detents - yes, one of the detents has it's own smaller detent. All part of making 4 shift 'lanes' I guess. Smeared with a little green grease to keep it slippery until it's full of oil.
Last but not least - shifter lever and cover in place. After adjusting the 5-6 'gate/reverse lockout plate - now it goes into all 6 gears, and once the shift lever is pushed down about 1/4 inch (or less) reverse as well.
Then it started raining, and I didn't get the very last task done - trimming off the remainder of the shifter rod that still pokes out of the back of the transmission. 10 seconds iwth an angle grinder and that will be done.
And that's the CBF Performance top mount shifter install.
Note: FWIW, and I certainly don't need it at all, but the new striker plate has nothing carved into it to activate the neutral switch. I screwed the switch into the case just to keep the oil in, but it won't do anything. The reverse switch works,however.
Did some un-fun work under the dash today. Making holes for the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. m Measure once, cot once, then spend a while fixing it up with a dremel? Eh, whatever.
Had to go by a compact right angle drill so I could do the hole saw (1 3/4") from the footwell, with the cable clutch pedal out of the way. Wasn't too terrible. Worst part was that it was something like 96 degrees out. And humid. Heat index over 100 or so.
Then I noticed the piston on my 260 clutch master cylinder was stuck down. 150 psi of air didn't pop it out either. I have some PBlaster soaking in it now, but odds are I'll just need to get a new one.
Had to go by a compact right angle drill so I could do the hole saw (1 3/4") from the footwell, with the cable clutch pedal out of the way. Wasn't too terrible. Worst part was that it was something like 96 degrees out. And humid. Heat index over 100 or so.
Then I noticed the piston on my 260 clutch master cylinder was stuck down. 150 psi of air didn't pop it out either. I have some PBlaster soaking in it now, but odds are I'll just need to get a new one.
poulrais
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2006
- Location
- Quebec, CAN
Any updates?
Nope. I was planning on doing some work on it this last weekend, but then my daughter's Camry ate the power steering pump (which runs a 'quirky' hydraulic cooling fan as well) and I used up about 150% of my 'feel like working on a car motivation' swapping that.
I'm still waiting on stupidly small parts to stick the engine and trans together - the pressure plate/flywheel dowel pins.
I got a replacement clutch master cylinder, I still need to install that along with the clutch pedal.
It's just been humid/hot. Plus I got a new bike that I've been riding a bunch. Yadda yadda.
I did decide to wait on the rear axle swap, and just go ahead and get a driveshaft for the CD009 --> Volvo rear axle. Do the Ford 8.8 swap (plus associated fun getting the ABZS and speedometer to work, plus finding a set of 4.5" wheels that I like) later on. Get this on the road sooner rather than later. The whole rear axle swap isn't really critical. Until it blows up anyhow.
I'm still waiting on stupidly small parts to stick the engine and trans together - the pressure plate/flywheel dowel pins.
I got a replacement clutch master cylinder, I still need to install that along with the clutch pedal.
It's just been humid/hot. Plus I got a new bike that I've been riding a bunch. Yadda yadda.
I did decide to wait on the rear axle swap, and just go ahead and get a driveshaft for the CD009 --> Volvo rear axle. Do the Ford 8.8 swap (plus associated fun getting the ABZS and speedometer to work, plus finding a set of 4.5" wheels that I like) later on. Get this on the road sooner rather than later. The whole rear axle swap isn't really critical. Until it blows up anyhow.
poulrais
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2006
- Location
- Quebec, CAN
You should be ok with the stock rear end if you don't run slicks or super sticky tires I guess?
It was already 'traction limited' in 1st and 2nd gears, full throttle and spooled up they were just going to spin. Adding HP to the 16VT was just making it faster in 3rd and on up gears. No real change in the lowest gears from like 275 on up - with the 225 Toyo T1-R's I have on it now.
So I'm just sort of assuming that will be the car with 3rd and possibly 4th as well with the turbo-H8.
I just want to get it out rolling and start working out the bugs on the engine/trans before adding in a rear axle swap as well.
So I'm just sort of assuming that will be the car with 3rd and possibly 4th as well with the turbo-H8.
I just want to get it out rolling and start working out the bugs on the engine/trans before adding in a rear axle swap as well.
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2008
- Location
- Dallas, TX
Im having traction issues with 225/45/17 in the back with my tuned lm7. I bet you'll need to go up to at least a 245 back there and set up traction control in MS.