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240 Advice on doing front struts on '91 244

I got the one side off and was able to get the new strut and the gland nut on. However, I can’t get the last 5 threads on. How did ya’ll get it in all the way?

The original gland nut had 14 threads whereas the new ones with the Bilstein B6 has 18 on there.
I have 5 threads exposed. Is this a problem?
 
cleanflametrap said:
I call it a hook spanner, and I got it mail order from Harbor Freight Tools, before they built their local store network across the country.
Click to expand...

And yeah, that's what it's called. An "adjustable hook spanner". You can find them on Amazon (or Snap-On if you have access to that).

Funny story is that the last time I did my struts I fought with the OEM-style gland nuts much as the OP is (although mine weren't terribly rusted...just old and been for a long time). I used all manner of improvised tools - channel lock pliers, vise grips, pipes, breaker bar - and then bought the honking big pipe wrench (I'll never understand how that's supposed to work since most of those things are so loose that they can't keep a good grip on something truly stuck)...all to no avail. I ended up using a cold chisel and a 3# hammer and that did it...although it pretty much killed the gland nut. Fortunately the new struts had new (again, OEM-style with the slots in them) gland nuts.

A week later, I was at one of those old-guy tool auctions/sales where a 120 year old machine shop was liquidating, and I found this totally weird wrench thing that I'd never encountered before. But something told me to "buy it" (it was all of 3 bucks and is clearly about 50 years old...even older than the Volvo).

2 weeks after that, one of the gland nuts on my newly installed struts starts to creep out (see previous post). I dread the idea of pulling everything apart to tighten the thing down...but get the idea that maybe I can sneak some kind of wrench between spring coils and tighten down the nut. Enter the weird wrench from the tool sale. Works perfectly. And now I know what an adjustable hook spanner is for.

And the nut stayed down until it started to creep up again...whereupon I realized that the threads in the tube were messed up and would never hold the nut tight. At which point I had it spot welded to the tube and ordered a new (to me) spindle/hub/tube set up from one of the helpful folks here on TB...for the NEXT time I have to do that side and just scrap the whole thing for a new one with good threads. But hey, I've got the right wrench now at least.
 
Ha! That’s funny. I got it all back in for now. What I can’t figure out now is how to break the jam nut on the tie rod.

Also, are the 5 exposed threads in the new gland nut acceptable?
 
With 13 out of 18 threads used. If the nut is tight enough. That should be fine.

Are you replacing the tie rod and the tie rod ends? Then just remove the boot and take them both off together. If you are just trying to get the jam nut free. Penetrating oil and a torch are probably your best bet. They do fuse together and I just replace the whole damn thing when that happens.
 
Yep, that makes sense. The only reason I was trying to loosen the jam nut was to get the boot.
I’m using new inner and outer tie rods. Is there a trick to get the boot out without loosening the jam nut?

Good to note on the number of threads. Passenger side is coming along minus getting my boots off the old tie rods. Driver’s side is completely toast. I have a feeling I’m going to have to get a machine to machine that old gland nut off. Gave it another shot this morning to no avail.

Also, my jounce hoses are cracking mildly and I wanted to replace them.
However, when I put a 11mm flare nut wrench, the fitting on the brake line just rounded off instead of moving. Time to take it to a brake shop?
 
th


OE Volvo 240 Front Strut Brake Hard Line Driver Side Pair (2) 242 244 245 DL

s-l225.jpg
 
 
I tried the air hammer and it is just tearing into the metal without actually moving the gland nut. What a mess...
I'm now also looking for the hard lines that go from the junction block to the jounce hose. Secure the hard lines that sit on the spindle itself thanks to Redwood. And have ordered ATE jounce hoses as well.
 
hiperfauto said:
There are a number of special tools to make the job easier. The Volvo spring compressors are a little too short to completely unload the spring so there's a fixture for that.

StrutSpringService.jpg


There is also a pair of tools for removing the strut top nut. One holds the shaft and fits inside the other which turns the nut. It may not fit aftermarket struts however.

StrutNutTools.jpg
Click to expand...


When I removed front lowering springs on my Midwest 92 240, I attempted to use tool 5036, but it would've broken, also the OE flange nut tool would've broken.

It was suggested to try a large channel lock, but in the end I left the Bilstein HD's in place, they are, perhaps a bit stiff.

I was able to use a top nut tool deep socket that has a hole in the center, fits the top nut, & allows a wrench to turn it.

Thanks for the diagrams :nod:
 
I was finally able to get the car back together. With the refreshed components up front, the handling of the vehicle is night and day. I was able to put about 130 miles so far and it’s been impressive what a new set of struts and shocks could do!
 
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