Removing 940 e-fan to install 740 mechanical fan-asking for friend

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Originally Posted by 2manyturbos

When the AC is on the e-fan is always on. That is the way Volvo set it up.

That may be the case on LH2.4 cars. If so, OP, does your friend use AC?

[240240]

AC is on 24.0/(2+5)/365

[240240]

Originally Posted by iHateVolvoPeople

No. You’re not going to find another fan that moves more air, especially on a 7/9 budget. Turbo LS guys 500+ HP use Volvo fans and rads all the time. Just command the fan on at earlier temps.

But they dont though. And if they are they're doing it wromg.

[240240]

Originally Posted by 2manyturbos

When the AC is on the e-fan is always on. That is the way Volvo set it up.

It goes back to my $14.99 question. What cools more? Mechanical fan w/ pusher? Or stock efan w/pusher?

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Originally Posted by 240240

AC is on 24.0/(2+5)/365

Well then according to Roy, your (friends) car shouldn’t be overheating.

Originally Posted by 240240

But they dont though. And if they are they're doing it wromg.

No, they do. They are extremely powerful.

Originally Posted by 240240

It goes back to my $14.99 question. What cools more? Mechanical fan w/ pusher? Or stock efan w/pusher?

Stock efan cars don’t have a pusher fan. And at idle, efan. At 2500 rpm, mechanical fan. But efan only cools better when it’s on....

[240240]

I'm aware that a pusher is not stock on efan 940. And a 940 is not optimal for an LS1 swapped volvo. I don't care what googlefu told you. Your response is not an answer to my question of which moves more air

Also 940 fan is soso at best. Back before you were born Dave Barton did a really detailed write up on efans, so did Mathews volvo site.

But their goals were to get +.0001hp out of their racecars.

Im trying to deal with heat soak in hot weather rush hour traffic.

Tryingbe setup seams to make sense to me.

[dl242gt]

On my 240 turbo I added a pusher and it helped with the a/c at idle. When Volvo factory intercooled the cars they added a pusher. So I added one when I intercooled my car.

Maybe just try adding a pusher fan since that will directly cool the condenser? That along with a cooler thermostat and lower temp fan switch should bring down the idling in traffic temps a lot easier than all the work to backdate.

[2manyturbos]

Originally Posted by 240240

It goes back to my $14.99 question. What cools more? Mechanical fan w/ pusher? Or stock efan w/pusher?

The e-fan set up is going to cool better. You can't have your car idling at 2,000 RPM in traffic in order to drive the mechanical fan fast enough to move as much air as the e-fan on high speed. They are a very powerful fan. It isn't just a fuel mileage consideration.

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Originally Posted by 240240

I'm aware that a pusher is not stock on efan 940. And a 940 is not optimal for an LS1 swapped volvo. I don't care what googlefu told you. Your response is not an answer to my question of which moves more air

Also 940 fan is soso at best. Back before you were born Dave Barton did a really detailed write up on efans, so did Mathews volvo site.

But their goals were to get +.0001hp out of their racecars.

Im trying to deal with heat soak in hot weather rush hour traffic.

Tryingbe setup seams to make sense to me.

You don’t know what you’re talking about

If you read his very detailed write up you wouldn’t be here asking random people for advice.

The 940 fan is extremely powerful and has absolutely no problem keeping v8s cool. The later 940T cars had a VERY over sized cooling system. Do the math on the surface area of the core in conjunction with airflow from the fan at multiple different static pressures, then report back.

You’d be hard pressed to find a single efan that moves more air. The thunderbird/Taurus fans are close and some actually use the same motor as the Volvo fans. Dual fan setup is a different story.

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Let’s decipher your first post, one more time.

Originally Posted by 240240

Is there anything to look out for as far as disconnecting the fan & relay? Or do we just unhook the wires pertaining to the efan and leave the relay unit?

It’ll be fine

Dont want to disable the front ac fan or want lh to act up.

There’s no pusher fan on efan 940s. Only the main electric puller.

And to pre answer the "why". Rush hour summer global warming traffic us brutal. It's not even summet and the car runs on the hot side right before boiling, just the way it's designed to be.

Yeah they run warm. Nature of the beast. But considering the boiling point of a 50/50 mixture at 22psi is nearly 300F, you’re nowhere near boiling over.

It doesn't overheat, but I can see that happening with the AC on on a 110degree day in stop n go freeway.

It will run cooler with AC on because the fan will run far more often.

[240240]

Originally Posted by iHateVolvoPeople

Let’s decipher your first post, one more time.


It’ll be fine

There’s no pusher fan on efan 940s. Only the main electric puller.

Yeah they run warm. Nature of the beast. But considering the boiling point of a 50/50 mixture at 22psi is nearly 300F, you’re nowhere near boiling over.



It will run cooler with AC on because the fan will run far more often.

I think you learned more in this thread than I did.

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Originally Posted by 240240

I think you learned more in this thread than I did.

I’m not concerned, none of my cars overheat.

[Martin L.]

Originally Posted by 240240

What did you do as far as wiring goes? Did you leave the fan relay?

Nothing. Just unplugged the fan wiring from the relay.

My point in switching to a mechanical fan was not overall cooling (the engine will never overheat in this climate), but constant airflow through the engine bay to lower the temperature specially around the manifold and turbo. Which it does perfectly.

[thelostartof]

So while talking about 7/9 fans, I drove my MS car around with a 7/9 fan and a 82C thermostat and the coolant temp never made it over 190 with it being 95deg out today. about 10-15 miles of stop and go traffic at the lights. The only time the temp went over 200 was when I turned off the car for 10min to reset an MS setting. I can always look at my datalogs from last summer I drove it to and from work but I am willing to bet it never made it over 200deg. So I will vote for adding another way to turn the fan on besides the ECU ($15 thermostat from parts store) and then adding a pusher fan will be more than enough for what the OP wants/needs.

Oh and this car has to pull air through a 4" thick Intercooler . . .

[VB242]

Don't need another thermostat, get an extra dash switch and send one side to the relay and one side to ground and you can turn it on anytime you like.

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Originally Posted by VB242

Don't need another thermostat, get an extra dash switch and send one side to the relay and one side to ground and you can turn it on anytime you like.

Yes this works wonderfully and is what I added in post #17. Too bad the 940 temp gauge doesn't do **** all besides stay in the middle of the range between 160F-240+F. So I pretty much just kick on the fan if I had just done a pull, or if I'm sitting in traffic/low speeds for more than 2 minutes or so.

[240240]

My "friends" wife isn't going to be messing with a switch. I'll have to set up the pusher to a temp switch

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Originally Posted by 240240

My "friends" wife isn't going to be messing with a switch. I'll have to set up the pusher to a temp switch

Why not just control the puller fan with a different temp switch at a lower temp, in the rad hose? Otherwise you’re wasting your time and your friends money.

[thelostartof]

Originally Posted by 240240

My "friends" wife isn't going to be messing with a switch. I'll have to set up the pusher to a temp switch

Setup the pusher to the AC compressor so when that is on so is the pusher....really simple relay setup and done.

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Originally Posted by thelostartof

Setup the pusher to the AC compressor so when that is on so is the pusher....really simple relay setup and done.

Do you think it matters that it’ll be on whilst driving down the highway? May cause turbulence? That’s why the idea of a pressure switch is ideal for cars that don’t take into consideration vehicle speed.

[VB242]

That bong water you're drinking is too strong. Turbulence shmerbulence

[thelostartof]

My efan is mounted almost on the bumper centerline so direct airflow I doubt is an issue. Nevermind that it covers up less than half of the condenser. I can tell you from experience that I have zero issues with this setup maintaining 40-45deg outlet temps at the vents at low speed and cruising on the highway with this setup
https://forums.tbforums.com/showpost...5&postcount=11

[iHateVolvoPeople]

Originally Posted by thelostartof

My efan is mounted almost on the bumper centerline so direct airflow I doubt is an issue. Nevermind that it covers up less than half of the condenser. I can tell you from experience that I have zero issues with this setup maintaining 40-45deg outlet temps at the vents at low speed and cruising on the highway with this setup
https://forums.tbforums.com/showpost...5&postcount=11

Awesome that's good news. That's a pretty small pusher you got on there so it makes sense.

The stock 2/7 pusher fans are actually quite big and draw a **** ton of current. They move a decent amount of air as well.


On my turbo car I replaced the stock pusher with a 16" Spal pusher medium profile and it does okay, though I think stock moved more air. Oh whale.