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LH2.2 engine in LH2.4/3.1 car

I

iHateVolvoPeople

Active member
Joined
Feb 1, 2014
Location
Midwest
I?m going to be swapping an ~88 lh2.2 b230f into a 92 240 with lh3.1. I know it?s not ideal but it?s the motor in hand. Had a few questions before I dive in as to not run into any major unexpected inconveniences.

1) I assume this is the same case as b21>2.4/3.1 motor where I must drill and tap the 2 holes for the CPS bracket. Is this something that can be relatively eyeballed? Plan was to trace the old block, mark the new block, and then tap/drill for m6.

2) 2.2 > 3.1 sensors like, tps, cts, etc etc is as simple as a direct swap from old to new. I think the only issue here will be the knock sensor. The new block should have a spot for it to mount to, and I will just have to grab a torque wrench for this portion so it?s the correct sensitivity.

3) For flywheel/clutch stuff, just direct swap from 3.1 motor to 2.2 motor? Both engines were backed my manuals. Gotta be careful with flywheel alignment but I?ll just put both engines at TDC (or whichever position the 3.1 engine is locked up at :lol:) and swap straight over.

I think that?s it but if you know of any other obvious things please let me know. Thank you
 
Just took a look at the back of the 88 motor. It appears that Volvo has already drilled and tapped the earlier blocks for the CPS bracket.
 
Yeah my 84 b23ft was drilled and tapped for the crank sensor. Just swap all the sensors over and go basically, some are the same, but unless you know just swap and go.. Everything will bolt on over, it's the same motor.
 
Put the new engine at tdc and use the flywheel missing tooth in the starter hole method to get the timing right. Don't need a locked up motor for reference that way.
 
Lord_Athlon said:
Are you implying that the rear of the crankshaft could possibly be out of time in comparison to the front of the crank? TDC is TDC.
Click to expand...
No but if you set it by the crankshaft and not the cam it could be 180?out. I see where you're going with this I guess I should have phrased it differently, number one piston can be at the top of the compression or exhaust stroke so you need to set it in relation to the cam gear and not the crank.
 
Pull oil filler cap on top of valve cover look down hole make sure first two lobes on cam are up and piston number one is up by pulling spark plug and then that is top dead center with both cam lobes up offset from straight up in a V configuration and piston number one at the top pull spark plug put chop stick down hole to feel piston at top of cylinder look at first two lobes on cam make sure they are both up that is top dead center. NOW put in flywheel with missing crank sensor holes at starter hole closer to lower starter bolt hole then top starter bolt hole.

Do not look at marks on any gears. LOOK at piston and cam lobes then verify cam and gear marks are in correct spot also.. Why gamble.
 
Doing too many bongs today?

Lord_Athlon said:
Are you implying that the rear of the crankshaft could possibly be out of time in comparison to the front of the crank? TDC is TDC.
Click to expand...

:oogle:



Remove cylinder head and make sure piston 1 and piston 4 are TDC. NOW you can install flywheel.
 
Breaker bar could NOT move seized engine. So anyway, here is the new engine with cylinder 1 at confirmed TDC. I need confirmation that this is the correct flywheel orientation.
w5SIwhs_d.jpg


Keep in mind the engine is sitting straight up and down rather than the normal 15 degree tilt.
HPYOXSo_d.jpg
 
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