We may get some footage from our shakedown today at a local place, but there will definitely be plenty from Gridlife! They actually livestream the races on the website too!
Bump!
Awesome car and I do think I remember seeing it listed years ago when it left our coast. I don't remember any specifics, but I'm pretty sure it was interesting and someone else in the scene posted the listing on Facebook or something.
Can you post the dyno chart? The first thing I thought when you mentioned the car's spec was that the carbs are too small, but I guess that really depends on where you want to make peak power. With that camshaft and the car's use, I would expect you wanting the peak HP(especially with the gearing) above 6,000rpm. Likely 6500 and with the power hanging on above that, but I don't think the 40s will give you that. I don't have any personal experience though, so you can ignore me if wanted. Hah, who knows what was done to the cylinder head and how good that is, too.
Do you know what size the venturis are? A quick search online came up with this:
https://cnx.org/contents/oKbaEWQ3@2/Selection-and-Tuning-of-Weber-DCOE-Carburetors
For the brakes, what did you end up doing? Stock 140 brakes are pretty darn good with the right pads on them, but we did upgrade to 164 vented rotors with 240 front calipers on our '71 endurance car in my signature. We are using ducting as well and even the factory Volvo pads are sufficient all around! They don't have the most bite if you aren't using a brake booster, though, and the rears aren't lasting more than 8 or so hours in one go with the current setup. Our rear proportioning valves are turned up though and we might be able to turn them down some with us now running a rear swaybar. We have about 155whp, for reference.
Being a hillclimb/autox car, I would definitely expect you to want to dial out some of that rotating happiness if you're going to go out on track. Speaking of which... How'd it go?
Questions that I still have...
Does this thing really need race fuel? It has VP110 in it as it came to me that way, but it seems excessive. Anyone with anecdotal evidence for what is necessary in a B20? I'd be curious if there are some accepted timing limits, compression limits, or power limits that people have found on pump gas so I have something to base the decision off of once it sees some dyno time.
The brakes seem solid (no pun intended) but I may look into something a bit more robust in the future. Is there a straightforward swap or an easy way to add proportioning to these cars? It has the dual line front calipers with the single line with the accumulator thingies for the rears. Under braking it seemed to want to swap ends pretty easily, made for quick trail braking at autocross but not sure I want to feel that at 90mph on track.
What would the board say is good oil pressure on a race motor? It's seeing 35psi at idle, and 90-100psi at full chat. Judging from the oil bottles that came with it, they were putting 20w50 in it, which seems excessive...
You can't say for sure on the fuel until you get it on the dyno and try things. I would expect with the camshaft it has, if dialed in well, you wouldn't NEED to run such high octane and you maybe wouldn't NEED to run so much ignition timing, either. See if you lose any torque on the dyno by retarding it a couple degrees at a time to find out. You can't really just say what the setup should be capable of running, you'll have to actually test it and find out what's best.
What did you end up doing for oil and what were the pressures after changing? Was that 90-100psi at high rpm when the oil was warmed up fully?
Did you ever get around to running non-factory control arms?