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Old 06-19-2019, 08:56 AM   #126
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Also, I'm working through the battery relocation:

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Old 06-21-2019, 10:01 PM   #127
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I'm in the middle of making my exhaust system right now. I'm a little concerned about heat given how close the driver side manifold is to the fuel lines. Furthermore, I want to run catalytic converters. There is not much room for them since there was never supposed to be converters up front. I'm thinking no matter what I do, they'll be hanging below the frame rails and that's not exactly ideal. The driver side converter also wants to live directly below the transmission switch...

Does anyone have any experience running catalytic comverters on a 240 V8 swap that has some insight?
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:45 PM   #128
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Dual 2.5" aluminized; high flow stainless shell/stainless substrate cats. Used alum gutter flashing to make some heat shields above them. Year 12 of the beta test. So far so good. Side view -- everything tucked up. It can be done....just takes some planning and attention to detail.





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Old 06-22-2019, 01:24 AM   #129
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Quote:
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Dual 2.5" aluminized; high flow stainless shell/stainless substrate cats. Used alum gutter flashing to make some heat shields above them. Year 12 of the beta test. So far so good. Side view -- everything tucked up. It can be done....just takes some planning and attention to detail.
Nice, Mike. Do you have true dual going straight out the back as well? My plan was to send it through a Magnaflow dual in single out muffler and have it exit through the passenger side. I'm considering buying IPD sway bars which would make true dual easier.

I'm doing mine in full 2.25" stainless. I guess my fitment concerns for catalytic converters reside around the converters I'm attempting to use. I have that basically brand new H-pipe assembly off of a 2003 Mustang Mach 1 (the reason I went with 2.25" stainless), which has two primary and two secondary cats. The primaries are too big to use:



In the following picture I have what's left of the H-pipe assembly hanging off of the trans crossmember. The secondary cats are much smaller, but still a little large for what I'm trying to do. I think I will probably have to move them further towards the back of the car since I simply cannot have a catalytic converter living underneath the plastic transmission switch and cable.



I'm hoping to work through the exhaust up to the H pipe this weekend and do a first start. All it needs is fuel lines which will be finished tomorrow.

In other news, I plugged everything in and got life from the PCM, power to the starter, and the lights that I wired to the gauge cluster all worked.

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Old 06-22-2019, 06:24 AM   #130
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If you want those cats to work properly - do a bit of research before you move them further back. The systems rely on getting to certain temps within a certain amount of time. The further you move them back, the cooler the exhaust stream becomes. You have more limited real estate options than I due to those cats and the tranny choice. A single, more contemporary 3-way cat on each bank will give you a lot more flexibility than trying to fit a pair of the older 2-way cats.

Yes true duals all the way back. I did a lot of fab to fit a pair of 5.0L Coyote mufflers in the stock muffler location transversely under the trunk. Pics if you want.

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Old 06-22-2019, 10:28 AM   #131
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Quote:
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If you want those cats to work properly - do a bit of research before you move them further back. The systems rely on getting to certain temps within a certain amount of time. The further you move them back, the cooler the exhaust stream becomes. You have more limited real estate options than I due to those cats and the tranny choice. A single, more contemporary 3-way cat on each bank will give you a lot more flexibility than trying to fit a pair of the older 2-way cats.

Yes true duals all the way back. I did a lot of fab to fit a pair of 5.0L Coyote mufflers in the stock muffler location transversely under the trunk. Pics if you want.
Would love to see pics. That sounds awesome.

Yes, you've definitely got a real estate advantage. If I swapped over to a manual, I wouldn't have as much trouble. This is a budget build, though, and the auto was free. I'm going to spend today continuing to figure out an exhaust solution. After that, it's time to add fuel and try starting it.
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Old 06-22-2019, 11:06 AM   #132
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Turned these ---



Into this by cutting off the inlet ells, opening the case and turning the exit out the side using the ells, and welding them end to end. 32" x 9" x 12" -- just fits in the back with 1R mandrel bent 90's to turn the flow into the each side.



This connects just behind the H-pipe you saw in the other pic up above. It's on the floor upside down relative to how it goes on the car. Running under axle just like the stock system does. SO MUCH easier to remove for maintenance, etc.





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Old 06-22-2019, 08:29 PM   #133
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I love it. Awesome muffler setup.

Bad news - I had to pull the engine and trans out after realizing there was a lot of scraping and grinding noises coming from it when I hand turned the crank. Long story short, the flex plate got bent in toward the engine, and first start will not be happening this weekend. Now here's the long story:

Long ago, one of the times I was reassembling the engine to the transmission between test fits, I pulled the torque converter out out of curiosity just to look at it. Little did I know, when I put it back in, I had not seated it all the way in the transmission. I then proceeded to mate the engine and transmission. It stayed like this for maybe a month. The next time I took the two apart, the torque converter was sitting on the flex plate by the studs. That's not normal. Basically, by not seating the torque converter all the way, I put a crazy amount of pressure on the flex plate and something in the transmission when I re-mated the engine and transmission. I thought oh crap, have I ruined the transmission pump? But the torque converter still seats properly, and when I turn it, all sounds good and healthy. I figured everything was ok.....

Back to today - I noticed the noise when I was reattaching the torque converter nuts and buttoning up the trans for real, but didn't think anything of it until I tested out the starter motor with some quick turns of the key. It sounded like something was either scraping around the oil pan, or scraping around the flex plate and separator plate. So I pulled it out and separated the two. Here's some clues:





You can see where the torque converter nut studs were scraping against the separator plate and the little shield that goes on the bottom of the trans. Upon removing the separator plate, I noticed it was shaped a little irregularly. I thought that maybe the issue was that the plate had gotten bent over time and it just needed to be straightened. I bent it ever so slightly toward the engine side so it would be further away from those studs. I reinstalled, re-mated the trans, and the situation was remedied...except for one bolt that still wanted to make noise in one place. I then tried putting the starter in, and to my surprise, this created a lot of noise when hand cranking the engine. It was as if the starter motor gear was engaged at all times.

At this point, I knew something was very wrong and had to be related to the incorrect torque converter installation. I thought, had I deformed the flex plate toward the engine? Lucky for me, my friend who sold me my donor had a Mark VIII flex plate laying around. He measured the distance from the bolting flange area to the outside edge and got 25mm. When I measured mine, this is what I got...



...almost 1cm deformation. Crazy. So, that's why there will be no first start this week. I still don't know if the transmission is ok, despite how everything seems to turn ok. I won't find out until I start driving the car.

So there it is. Do your research. Do not be like me and do the research after you broke something...lol. Said friend is sending me that very flex plate, so I will install it when it gets here and hopefully this is the only thing wrong as a result of this.
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:09 PM   #134
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Been there but, thankfully, did not bend the flex plate. Mine was out of the car and it was obvious that something was going to bend. There are three alignment steps on inserting the torque converter into the transmission.
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:32 PM   #135
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Dang...2 steps forward, and one giant leap for mankind backwards. You’re not alone in having done this - I think I’d try to reach out to others with experience with that tranny and see what the chances are you’ve damaged the tranny - before you put it back together.
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:00 PM   #136
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There is a 'low probably' chance that you also damaged the transmission pressure pump. Maybe.
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Old 07-02-2019, 11:32 AM   #137
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My "new" flex plate came in the mail and I installed it. Everything went together MUCH better than it did before. Upon removal of the old flex plate it was pretty clear how it had deformed. So far it seems it was the only casualty in my torque converter installation mistake.

Engine and trans are back in the car. The engine holds 6 quarts of oil! I tried starting it for the first time and all it did was crank. Upon further investigation, I found that the PCM relay had been wired to a circuit that was only hot in "on" on the ignition switch. Looking at my notes, I had this wire noted as "hot in on and start," but clearly this was not the case. I re-wired that to a wire that was indeed hot in on and start and got some life from the engine. However, this life was short-lived, and the engine stalled shortly after starting.

In the video, the first cranking is the ignition switch going from "off" to "start." The engine stalls. The second crank is the ignition switch going from "on" to "start." It will crank with no combustion all day until you switch it to "off" and then back to "on," upon which you'll get it to start and stall again. That's what happened in the third crank. Basically, you need to turn off the PCM relay to get it to start and stall.

I believe it has something to do with the PCM and the PATS system. I purchased some software from a guy that wrote a template for the 1998 Mark VIII PCM and used TunerPro RT and a Moates chip burner to upload the tune to my chip. PATS is disabled in the tune I wrote, among other things. I intend to write a more detailed post on that later when the car actually runs.

Anyways, this video is pretty cool. There is absolutely no exhaust on the car in the video.



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Old 07-02-2019, 01:19 PM   #138
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Coming along nicely....
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Old 07-02-2019, 08:21 PM   #139
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Half way congrats . . .

About this time I fought an ignition switch internal issue. Voltage through its contacts but no current. Use a test light to trace rather than a VOM.
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Old 07-02-2019, 08:55 PM   #140
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When I pulled the 5.0L out and put the LS in, I used a 9 volt batt and a test light to trace every wire...not enuf umph in the batt to hurt anything if I got my wires crossed, so to speak.
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Old 07-02-2019, 09:02 PM   #141
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Got it to run. I misunderstood how to turn off PATS in my tuner software. It's off now, and now it runs. Dash lights work, too! Can't run it for too long, though...no coolant or trans fluid. Time to start finishing up plumbing and putting everything back together.



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Old 07-02-2019, 09:55 PM   #142
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Hey Ive been watching your progress along and I got the same feeling when I got my 7mgte started after 3 long years!!! It really purrs and is not as lous cause i installed a muffler from a brz twin exhaust on a heck of a deal. Kuddos to you and Keep up the great job !!!
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Old 07-02-2019, 10:58 PM   #143
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Nice dude! Congrats. Big steps.
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Old 07-03-2019, 10:12 AM   #144
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Congrats, sounds good.
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Old 07-03-2019, 10:48 AM   #145
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Now - on to death by a thousand details...
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Old 07-03-2019, 12:45 PM   #146
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Thanks everyone for all the good words! I'm pretty psyched.

I have a question regarding power steering fluid. Since this is a 1998 Ford engine, that means the power steering and hydroboost system should use Mercon V transmission fluid per the owner's manual. Is the Volvo steering rack going to be ok with Mercon V? What have others run for power steering fluid on systems similar to mine?
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Old 07-03-2019, 01:01 PM   #147
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I ran Type F for years in a 5.0L Ford pump and Volvo rack. And I run F now in the Saginaw pump and Volvo rack.
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Old 07-09-2019, 02:41 PM   #148
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I think I will try out Mercon V and see what happens.
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Old 07-09-2019, 05:14 PM   #149
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Life and engine transplants are a series of compromises.

Your pump is expecting Mercon V, your rack is expecting Type F.

I suspect that either will be just fine.
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Old 07-09-2019, 05:39 PM   #150
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Sounds fantastic. Still remember the feeling when the 5.0 came to life for the first time in my old 745, almost 20 years ago now (back before LS swaps were in style and when the EFI 5.0 Ford was the favorite swap motor in everything from Volvos to Miatas -- and of course a much simpler installation than what you have done).

Been watching progress here as well and enjoying it. Great to see a swap that breaks the mold. The Ford OHC motors are great to drive, smooth and powerful and wonderful sound. I have only had them in trucks but even there they can be enjoyed.

As for the ATF choice, the current (updated) formulation of Mercon V is supposed to be back-compatible with the old regular Mercon spec and Ford now specifies V for installation anywhere that the old Mercon was originally used. Lots of Volvos out there with generic all-purpose "Dex/Merc" fluid in the PS systems and no problems. Stands to reason that if they work fine with a fluid meeting the old Mercon spec, and Mercon V also meets that spec, it'll work fine too.

Best that I understand it, the various differences in ATF types and specs mainly have to do with friction modifiers, anti-foaming properties, anti-chatter additives, etc. Things that matter in an automatic transmission, but a PS system should be much less particular about anything other than viscosity being reasonably close to its original spec. I would be surprised if either the pump or rack or hydroboost unit could tell a difference with almost any off-the-shelf ATF you could find. Ford probably just published the Mercon V spec since it was what they were selling at the time.
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