240: drivers door lock cylinder removal

[Marvelous3]

I've got the door panel off but how exactly does the drivers front door lock cylinder come out? I just don't want to break anything at this point.

Thanks!!

[2manyturbos]

You have to remove the electric lock actuator part that wraps around the lock cylinder before going any further. Then, just remove the 2 screws on the outer door shell that hold the lock cylinder clip in place and use something slightly smaller that the diameter of the holes through the shell to push the clip off the cylinder. It will pull straight out of the door at that point.

[dl242gt]

There should be a clip that you have to slide off to remove the cylinder from the door. Once you have the electric lock switch off you can get to the clip to remove it.

[Marvelous3]

How do I get the plastic door lock ring off? Does it pinch together? I popped the c clip off and of course it shot off and fell into the bottom of the door panel.

[TestPoint]

Getting it off is the easy part.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...90&postcount=3

While you are working in there be sure to clean and lube the door lock mounted on the outside of the door jam. It comes off with only the two Philips or TROX screws. This is what gets corroded and breaks the door handles. Goes back on with only the two screws without issue.

[bobxyz]

Does this help? https://forums.turbobricks.com/showp...7&postcount=12

[Marvelous3]

Yes! Got it out.

[nel621]

Take note of the position of the door lock actuator ring. It needs to be in just the position for it to work. Wear gloves. it's going to hurt.

[Redwood Chair]

Originally Posted by nel621

Take note of the position of the door lock actuator ring. It needs to be in just the position for it to work. Wear gloves. it's going to hurt.

[Marvelous3]

^^Your picture turned out better than mine did so thanks for that. I've learned the hard way to take pictures of everything before I pull everything apart. Locksmith said about $70 for him to make four new keys from the cylinder. Sounds fair enough to me I guess.

[TestPoint]

I found the following in my 5k+ collection of Volvo restoration photos and thought it might help some unfortunate soul searching for pictures in the future.

One of the reasons getting the collar back on is so difficult is that you have to get your hand through a small stamped opening with sharp edges. I taped all around the opening with masking tape, two layers, in an attempt to reduce the number of cuts on the back of the hand.

[Monteromano]

Hi, I'm new to this board and I've been going through the exact project that Marvelous3 is doing - I am trying to get keys cut for the 1990 244 that I purchased from the impound lot of Alexandria, Virginia last month for $270.

Marvelous3, can you ask your locksmith if he is interested in doing mail-order work to cut keys from door locks?

I've spent some time searching for locksmith services recently, and haven't found anything in that price range that is convenient.

Info on cutting new keys for these locks is somewhat dated and scattered on the forums, so here is a summary of what I have recently encountered when trying to get a new key:

The locksmith that does work for the city impound lot wanted $280 to cut keys (no explanation to justify that price). The Volvo dealer in Rockville, MD wants $52 for a key cut from the VIN, but that would require me two trips across town (because they need to see the title and my ID, and then they won't mail me the new key), so this means at least a half day off work to fit that in.

I already purchased a blank key from this locksmith on Ebay, but when I asked him if he could cut a key if I mailed him a door lock, he said he was retired and didn't do that work anymore.

I found another local automotive locksmith who said he can cut me a single key if I pull the lock for $150, but it may cost more once he learns there is no key code stamped on my lock. In sum, if there was a locksmith that would do this work by mail, it would be convenient.

Meanwhile, I got my 244 to start by pulling the ignition switch -- some have said it is easier to pull the switch by removing the speedometer cluster, but I found the best way was to remove the drivers seat and lay down below to reach up to the ignition switch -- once I had pulled the wire receptacle from the back of the ignition switch, the 2 flathead screws came off with relative ease. Finding a screwdriver of exactly the right length is necessary.


BTW, I'm very impressed with the TB forum. I've already met one board member, Districtmotors, who helped me source some stock rims to replace the 16" rims that the PO put only on the back wheels and had inserted Jeep springs to get them to clear. This is my second Volvo - I sold my '88 245 in 2002, but I've spent a lot of time working over the years on my '77 Volkswagen Westfalia camper, so Bosch fuel injection is somewhat familiar to me.

[Tbangin]

snug all the window reg bolts while you're in there and anything else that has threads

I need to be a locksmith where you guys are
as for the guy that needs a code even with the cylinder in his hand? I would not use him

[TestPoint]

The original Volvo keys are steel and not many locksmiths are capable of cutting that short of with a file. Keys blanks in brass are easy to cut to match to the pins. Even the brass key blanks are getting expensive. I think I paid $20 for a steel key blank, $5 for a brass one.

I have a local locksmith that would do that for a lot less than you identify. First key maybe $50, additional maybe $5 with you supplying the blank(s). The guy would match the key blank to the pins in the cylinder. Had him do that for some good locks that I didn't have keys for.

If all else fails I will check with the local guy. Send me the lock cylinder and I will get it done and send it back.

[nel621]

I used to buy cars at the impound lots and there were always a few guys who would "cut" brass keys to get the cars to start. It was brutal and makeshift. They would put the brass blank in, twist it hard and note the the slight cuts. Then they would just start filing on the key, insert and repeat. Before you knew it you had a key that would open the doors and start the car. You could then take that key and have a real one made at a locksmith. I would take Testpoint up on his offer or go to the dealer with stamped self addressed padded envelope and speak to whomever takes your order and explain the return trip is a trip.

[Monteromano]

Thanks Tbangin, TestPoint, and nel621 for the prompt responses. TestPoint, I will send you a PM.

I read on one of the forums that getting a key cut at the dealer is not a sure thing because some of the old records of the VIN and corresponding key codes have been scrambled, so the key from the dealer may not work. Has anyone had that experience?

[Monteromano]

I contacted TestPoint, and he spoke to his locksmith.

The locksmith wasn't sure that these door lock cylinders can be easily disassembled in a nondestructive manner.

Does anyone know if the pins can be removed (to observe the order of the pins) without destroying the outer ring that holds the lock together?

The locksmith asked for photos of the door lock cylinder, so I took these photos:

[Redwood Chair]

You can buy two matching door locks and a key for $30 shipped if you don't mind a different key for the ignition.

[hiperfauto]

Here's your pics.

Originally Posted by Monteromano

[Monteromano]

Thanks Hiperfauto. Where can I find a tutorial on how to post images? I've just tried with photos.google and with postimage.cc and had no luck with either using the insert image icon in the header here.

Redwood Chair, I've seen locksets with keys for sale on Ebay, but I just bought this car at a city auction without a key. I've also seen full sets with the complete ignition lock, but I assume removing the entire ignition lock is fairly complicated, and the full set of keys including trunk lock are about $150. And, if I went that route, I would still have the challenge of getting into the trunk.

[Redwood Chair]

A good dealership will be able cut a key from the VIN if you can prove ownership and the locks haven't already been swapped.

[Monteromano]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

A good dealership will be able cut a key from the VIN if you can prove ownership and the locks haven't already been swapped.

Yes, I may end up doing that, but I still don't have the title from the impound lot sale - waiting on the DMV.

[hiperfauto]

Originally Posted by Monteromano

Thanks Hiperfauto. Where can I find a tutorial on how to post images? I've just tried with photos.google and with postimage.cc and had no luck with either using the insert image icon in the header here.

Redwood Chair, I've seen locksets with keys for sale on Ebay, but I just bought this car at a city auction without a key. I've also seen full sets with the complete ignition lock, but I assume removing the entire ignition lock is fairly complicated, and the full set of keys including trunk lock are about $150. And, if I went that route, I would still have the challenge of getting into the trunk.

Google Photos doesn't make it easy like some other image hosting sites that provide a direct link to the image. I had to click on the image to open it full size, then right click to 'Copy image address'.

I see you also tried postimage. They do provide a direct link when you click 'Share'.

[Marvelous3]

Originally Posted by Redwood Chair

A good dealership will be able cut a key from the VIN if you can prove ownership and the locks haven't already been swapped.

That's assuming the Volvo key code is still correct.

The whole reason I'm at the locksmith with my door lock is that the key Volvo cut for me off of the VIN number didn't work. My understanding from reading the internet is that Volvo's key code database for 240/740/940 is hit or miss. Mine is apparently one of the ones that's a miss.

[Marvelous3]

Originally Posted by Monteromano

Yes, I may end up doing that, but I still don't have the title from the impound lot sale - waiting on the DMV.

If you have a bill of sale within 30 days that us usable as proof of ownership.