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Old 05-04-2019, 01:39 AM   #1
ChadK
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Default No brake pressure

So I re-did all of the calipers rotors rubber lines on my 245 and blew up the seals in two old master cylinders while trying to bleed and one (probably faulty) new one.

I now have a new master cyl. on as well as junction block how ever I'm still getting zero brake pressure even after bleeding, maybe I havent bleed the system enough? or my next thought is a pinhole in a hard line but there is no fluid on my shop floor so......?

Any ideas? Im pretty over this never ending brake issue.
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Old 05-04-2019, 12:06 PM   #2
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Are all the bleeder screws on the top of the calipers? Are they reman calipers? Sometimes their not reassembled properly by the reman company. Make sure the alignment dots are together on the caliper halves on the front.
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Old 05-04-2019, 12:17 PM   #3
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Did you bench bleed the master cylinder first? If not, you will never develop any brake pressure.
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Old 05-04-2019, 12:38 PM   #4
ChadK
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Haven't checked the bleeders they're all new calipers so there shouldn't be any problems with them. Caliper are all in properly too so the bleeders are all where they should be.

I bled the master when I first put it on and have looped the bleed hoses back into the master any time I take the lines off. Pumped the pedal with the bleed hoses on yesterday and it looked pretty good. Does it need to be bled every time you take the lines off? I would think gravity would pull the fluid through and not let air in?
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Old 05-04-2019, 01:39 PM   #5
dl242gt
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You will also want to take a small hammer and tap gently on the calipers, pressure regulators in the rear and on some of the fittings where it goes from metal to rubber lines.

The most painless and best way to bleed these cars is to use a pressure bleeder like the motive products one. Pays for itself after the first time.
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Old 05-04-2019, 01:40 PM   #6
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Yes, the brakes need to be bled everytime the system is opened.
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Old 05-04-2019, 04:21 PM   #7
ChadK
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Thanks, ill try that if i get some time.

I know anytime you open the system you need to bleed the brakes but would I need to bleed the master cyl. if I pulled the lines off of it when its on the car?
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
The most painless and best way to bleed these cars is to use a pressure bleeder like the motive products one. Pays for itself after the first time.
This.
I built a power bleeder out of a $15 dollar garden sprayer, an extra master cylinder cap, some cheap home depot fittings and a $5 dollar pressure gauge i picked up somewhere. I drilled a hole in the sprayer, and installed a fitting to attach the gauge and drilled a hole in the top of the extra master cap and installed a barb. Cut of sprayer wand from hose, install hose on barb fitting.
Pump to apply pressure. If you want, you can put a container of brake fluid inside the sprayer and drop the suction hose into it, and it will refill the master as you go. This is the sprayer type i used:

It took 10 minutes to do, or you can buy the same thing from summit for at least 50 bucks.
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:39 PM   #9
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If you can find the same grade of brake fluid but in a different colour, you can see when all the old fluid and air is out, and fresh bubble free fluid is in the whole system by the colour change when bleeding.
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Old 05-09-2019, 11:09 PM   #10
ChadK
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Ended up being a faulty caliper on the front right, as well as a couple of other little leaks. I couldn't figure it so I took it to the local shop
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Old 05-10-2019, 03:42 PM   #11
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Didn't you say earlier they were all new calipers? What was faulty?
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Old 05-10-2019, 03:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tintintin View Post
Didn't you say earlier they were all new calipers? What was faulty?
The usual culprit is mismatched halves from the rebuilder. When they combine an inner and outer from opposite sides, part of the caliper can't be bled at all. Have to check them at the parts counter for the dimples being matched.

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