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Old 05-15-2019, 01:26 PM   #26
Duder
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Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post
I'm debating yanking the engine and really don't want to without driving it first. If I pull it, I may be too tempted to plop something newer into it.
Stay on target....stay on target! Fix the B20 and get the car back on the road. Don't let it die and wither away in project car purgatory.

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Old 05-15-2019, 01:44 PM   #27
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What is the recommended flavor of that stuff nowadays?
Always used moly grease liberally. A 366 I built in one of my company trucks has 650k broken in that way.
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Old 05-15-2019, 01:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duder View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post
I'm debating yanking the engine and really don't want to without driving it first. If I pull it, I may be too tempted to plop something newer into it.
Stay on target....stay on target! Fix the B20 and get the car back on the road. Don't let it die and wither away in project car purgatory.
Hear, hear! Swapping a cam should take you part of a leisurely weekend day. The old pushrod motors are just far simpler to work on. Maybe all day if your definition of 'leisurely' is really on the leisurely side. Coupla hundred bucks, it's running again, and then you can drive it around while you ponder taking out the running B20 to put something else in.
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:37 PM   #29
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Thought that 142 looked like it would be a decent driver with it's original drivetrain.

Now thinking it will end up being another unfinished "awesome project" car.
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:17 AM   #30
vwbusman66
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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
Hear, hear! Swapping a cam should take you part of a leisurely weekend day. The old pushrod motors are just far simpler to work on. Maybe all day if your definition of 'leisurely' is really on the leisurely side. Coupla hundred bucks, it's running again, and then you can drive it around while you ponder taking out the running B20 to put something else in.
Duder/John- b20 is staying in the car for the foreseeable future. I just don’t want to pull the engine because I’m lazy.
I got home from work at 6:15 and worked fron then till now trying to do a timing/serp belt on the beater p2r. **** fords
****.
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It's all just lifter noise til it comes out the side.
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:10 AM   #31
planetman
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If you use the Volvo cam gear puller and the cam gear installation tools properly, you won't damage the cam plug.

If you need, I have both of those 2 tools available for rent.
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:43 AM   #32
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I was able to do the cam/lifter job while the engine was in the car. This was on a '75 240, so there *may* have been more room. I did have to pull the radiator to do it, though.
The lifter and cam looked like this.


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Old 05-16-2019, 01:30 PM   #33
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I've done cams with the motor in the car on a 544, a 122, and 1800, and a 140 as well. I'm pretty sure that part of the Volvo styling/design department's job was to make sure the grille opening was large enough and in the right spot for the cam to come out with the engine in place.
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Old 05-16-2019, 02:54 PM   #34
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Volvo didn't think about camshaft access on the V6 260s and 700s.

Originally you would have to pull the heads to change the cams and a changing they be needing due to clogged oil passages, but someone came up with the idea to cut a large hole in the firewall so the cams could be removed without pulling the heads. Volvo even sold a large rubber plug to fill the hole afterwards.
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Old 05-18-2019, 03:31 PM   #35
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vwbusman66,
I have the original cam from my 73. You are welcome to if for a small fee & shipping. I figure $50 should get it to you.
You would need to get some lifters.
At least it could get you going until you figure out what you are going to do engine-wise.
Let me know and I can send you some pics.
Steve
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