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Old 04-03-2019, 12:37 AM   #1
darkmountain
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Default Preparing for a long trip in my 240!

I am going to be taking a very long trip in my 93 245 at the end of this month. My band is playing some shows and will be taking my car. I have not mapped out the miles but I believe it will be somewhere around 5-7k.It currently has about 206*** miles.

In its current state it drives great. I have never had any issues in the year of ownership. I have had many items addressed such as rear main, plugs, cap and rotor, valve's have been adjusted, breaks and rotors, diff oil in the last 4k, oil changes every 3k with Castorl GTX and Mann filter. I always fix things as they show up. It is really a nice running wagon as I really enjoy driving my Volvo

Is there anything I should do to make sure my car is ready for a long distant trip with driving with minimal breaks? I have some extra room and already have basic tools and small stash of things I already carry such as fuses, AMM, various relays, run flat, blue shop manual, tool set, safety supplies.

I plan to have my very trusted mechanic give it a good look over just because I am very busy with work up until I leave for the trip.

If you all have any specific things I should take or have done I would gladly take the advise! Like I said I already do all I can to keep up and make sure my Volvo runs well and properly.

Thanks!
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Old 04-03-2019, 12:45 AM   #2
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AAA
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Well keep us updated on how your dumbass plan goes.
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Old 04-03-2019, 12:47 AM   #3
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*** Also last side note just to add *** I do very often take the car on 1-4 hour trips. Probably 1-3 times a month playing out of town shows. So it gets on the highway just as much as the city. I have noticed a small bit of oil dripping from just behind the bell housing and on the transmission pan after long drives but not enough to leak on the ground because I have been checking with cardboard. I can't believe that could be the rear main again? I had it done less than half year ago. But other than that no issues have come up.
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Old 04-03-2019, 12:48 AM   #4
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haha and yes I do have AAA
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Old 04-03-2019, 06:58 AM   #5
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Did you use a genuine Volvo rear main seal or aftermarket seal? Aftermarket seals will eventually leak.
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:07 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by darkmountain View Post
... I always fix things as they show up. It is really a nice running wagon as I really enjoy driving my Volvo. ...
This keeping up with every little thing is your best prep. As an experienced long-trip veteran in nothing but our aging 240 fleet, and survivor of many wish-I'd-checked-that issues on the road, I'll offer a short list of simple checks your mechanic would do.

1) Make certain the alternator brushes have plenty on them.

2) Check brake pads have plenty on them.

3) Don't be surprised by a rotting exhaust.

4) Check the in-tank fuel pump is working.

A drip from a rear main seal isn't going to stop you on the road, and as you've had it replaced you now believe even Genuine Volvo seals made from Viton eventually leak as well.
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Old 04-03-2019, 02:22 PM   #7
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I would second the alternator/brushes. And belts.

Alt, v-belts, timing belt, water pump, radiator, radiator/heater hoses, fuel pump relay, fuses, crank position sensor, cap/rotor. Anything that can suddenly leave the car dead are worth considering as spares.

I like having a voltage gauge in the car to warn me of charging issues. It's come in handy a few times...massive oil leak from the cam seal onto the belts...worn brushes...worn out belts....dying battery that wouldn't hold a charge overnight.

I've had an ignition rotor fail where the center caved in and finally the car died and would not restart. Leading up to the night it failed, it would fail to hot-restart about once every week or two for a couple months. Even if you replaced it recently, I would definitely carry a spare. Coil, coil wire, and ign. module too if you have spares.

I carry a spare crank position sensor. The wiring harness is subjected to heat and the insulation often fails. This could easily leave the car dead on the road, but it's such a small inexpensive spare to carry, and only takes a few minutes to replace....if you have enough extensions.

I've always had a few extra radiator hoses and a length of small hose to patch up the hose to the overflow tank hoses if needed. Bring a few feet of heater hose and you can bypass the heater core if something were to happen to your heater hoses out on the road.

Hose clamps, coat hanger, bailing wire, zip ties, duct tape...the usual stuff for emergency fixes. Tire plug kit, air compressor, spare tire that holds air and has rubber on it.
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Old 04-03-2019, 03:02 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by cleanflametrap View Post
This keeping up with every little thing is your best prep. As an experienced long-trip veteran in nothing but our aging 240 fleet, and survivor of many wish-I'd-checked-that issues on the road, I'll offer a short list of simple checks your mechanic would do.

1) Make certain the alternator brushes have plenty on them.

2) Check brake pads have plenty on them.

3) Don't be surprised by a rotting exhaust.

4) Check the in-tank fuel pump is working.

A drip from a rear main seal isn't going to stop you on the road, and as you've had it replaced you now believe even Genuine Volvo seals made from Viton eventually leak as well.
You pretty much just nailed on the head every problem I've ever encountered on the side of the road in a 240 (except I've never had a brake issue).

I've had a breakdown due to a worn brush assembly, had my rotted exhaust break about 25 miles into a 1,000+ mile road trip, and broke down in the mountains due to failed tank pump wiring, leading to vapor lock. Now I always carry a spare alternator or 3, and some brush assemblies. But I've switched to a Denso 100amp and I'm hoping for the best now.
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Old 04-03-2019, 07:00 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
I would second the alternator/brushes. And belts.

Alt, v-belts, timing belt, water pump, radiator, radiator/heater hoses, fuel pump relay, fuses, crank position sensor, cap/rotor. Anything that can suddenly leave the car dead are worth considering as spares.

I like having a voltage gauge in the car to warn me of charging issues. It's come in handy a few times...massive oil leak from the cam seal onto the belts...worn brushes...worn out belts....dying battery that wouldn't hold a charge overnight.

I've had an ignition rotor fail where the center caved in and finally the car died and would not restart. Leading up to the night it failed, it would fail to hot-restart about once every week or two for a couple months. Even if you replaced it recently, I would definitely carry a spare. Coil, coil wire, and ign. module too if you have spares.

I carry a spare crank position sensor. The wiring harness is subjected to heat and the insulation often fails. This could easily leave the car dead on the road, but it's such a small inexpensive spare to carry, and only takes a few minutes to replace....if you have enough extensions.

I've always had a few extra radiator hoses and a length of small hose to patch up the hose to the overflow tank hoses if needed. Bring a few feet of heater hose and you can bypass the heater core if something were to happen to your heater hoses out on the road.

Hose clamps, coat hanger, bailing wire, zip ties, duct tape...the usual stuff for emergency fixes. Tire plug kit, air compressor, spare tire that holds air and has rubber on it.
Tools also would be M10-M24 sockets and wrenches, O2 sensor socket, spark plug socket pry bar, gloves, screwdrivers, cordless soldering kit extensions, crimp connectors, crimper, pliers (needle nose and regular), dykes, utility knife mallet, small hydraulic jack, hex key and torx set if it has later model parts.
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Old 04-04-2019, 03:15 PM   #10
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Where at in NC? I'm in Charlotte and also play music
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Old 04-04-2019, 04:54 PM   #11
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Things to take?

Take a camera or phone so we can see how it went
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Old 04-04-2019, 05:04 PM   #12
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Tools also would be M10-M24 sockets and wrenches, O2 sensor socket, spark plug socket pry bar, gloves, screwdrivers, cordless soldering kit extensions, crimp connectors, crimper, pliers (needle nose and regular), dykes, utility knife mallet, small hydraulic jack, hex key and torx set if it has later model parts.
02 sensor socket?

If you haven't made sure the engine isn't kivving out/fuel injection is running tip top before running full-load on the highway, you've probably got bigger problems.

Fouling up the 02 sensor in a stock 240 running tip top should take a while
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Old 04-04-2019, 06:01 PM   #13
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Things to take?

Take a camera or phone so we can see how it went
I always document my volvo break downs on Snapchat so my friends with better cars can make fun of me.
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Old 04-04-2019, 06:18 PM   #14
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Only issue I've ever had consistently on long trips was the adjuster bolts breaking. Local hardware started carrying 6mm full threaded grade 8 bolts in various lengths, so I pulled them all, ran a tap through the nut, a dab of grease and new bolts.
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Old 04-04-2019, 06:47 PM   #15
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Only issue I've ever had consistently on long trips was the adjuster bolts breaking. Local hardware started carrying 6mm full threaded grade 8 bolts in various lengths, so I pulled them all, ran a tap through the nut, a dab of grease and new bolts.
I don't understand how those bolts could ever break on a trip. They are only under stress when adjusting the belt.
There are like a hundred redblocks in your signature! WTF!
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Old 04-04-2019, 07:19 PM   #16
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They're small and under stress....and 30 yrs old. Rust doesn't take long to weaken one either.

If something can go wrong.....it will.

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There are like a hundred redblocks in your signature! WTF!
I'm working on it.......lol
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Old 04-04-2019, 07:56 PM   #17
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I don't understand how those bolts could ever break on a trip. They are only under stress when adjusting the belt.
There are like a hundred redblocks in your signature! WTF!
+1. You set the tension with them, tighten the main (13mm usually) bolt, then back off the little 10mm. BTDT.
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Old 04-04-2019, 08:03 PM   #18
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I always document my volvo break downs on Snapchat so my friends with better cars can make fun of me.
To comment on the "better cars bit" not the "Snapchat" bit........I always laugh a little on the inside when I'm rolling down the highway and see a car 20 odd years newer than mine stranded on the shoulder.
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Old 04-04-2019, 08:49 PM   #19
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By the time I get them, they are about fused in place from rust then forced to the point of weakening or breaking when adjusted.

YMMV
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Old 04-04-2019, 08:58 PM   #20
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To comment on the "better cars bit" not the "Snapchat" bit........I always laugh a little on the inside when I'm rolling down the highway and see a car 20 odd years newer than mine stranded on the shoulder.
Lol, bet it’s a GM 99% of the time!

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By the time I get them, they are about fused in place from rust then forced to the point of weakening or breaking when adjusted.

YMMV
Fair point, gotta PB blast the crap out of them. But at least you don’t need to tensioner to tension the belts.
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:06 PM   #21
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There are like a hundred redblocks in your signature! WTF!
Quote of the day lol
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:33 PM   #22
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I had the alternator adjustment bolts break about 4 times in a month (on a 740 tho), and couldn't figure out what the problem was. The culprit revealed itself when the car died pulling into my driveway. I popped the hood, and the alternator and half of the large cast aluminum mounting bracket were laying there, snapped off...not sure how that happened but I had another bracket luckily.
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:43 PM   #23
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By the time I get them, they are about fused in place from rust then forced to the point of weakening or breaking when adjusted.

YMMV
If I have an adjuster bolt that breaks, I just get a hockey stick and lever the alt/pump/compressor over, and tighten the mount bolts with the other hand.
If you are not Canadian, I suppose a broom handle would work.
My 79 has an 100 amp bosch alternator that is totally wrong for the car, I think I got it out of a 960...I made the mount out of parts from 3 cars, one a ford, and there is no adjuster bolt. Above method is only way to adjust belt.
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:52 PM   #24
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Drive it til it quits. Then fix it and do it again.
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Old 04-04-2019, 11:46 PM   #25
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They're small and under stress....and 30 yrs old. Rust doesn't take long to weaken one either.

If something can go wrong.....it will.



I'm working on it.......lol
it is not under stress during daily driving, I can turn mine by hand, as anyone should be able to.
Are you serious?
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