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Old 04-28-2019, 12:50 PM   #26
cleanflametrap
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The E2487 is an Airtex number. Looks just like the E8778 I've been using successfully.



But that black goo looks like it came from one of the accessories boxed with the pump, none of which I've dared to put in the tanks. Maybe your pump is still OK.
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Old 04-28-2019, 12:54 PM   #27
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Dumb question but are these.pumps ever used as external pumps, hence the plastics clamps?
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Old 04-28-2019, 12:56 PM   #28
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I am sure that they will work just fine in my new parts washer. One of several upgrades.

Art, looks like you have one of the big butyl short hoses also. Ever used it?
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Old 04-28-2019, 12:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
Dumb question but are these.pumps ever used as external pumps, hence the plastics clamps?
There are no dumb questions. I think the desk jockeys who put the kit together may have never seen the inside of a tank.
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Old 04-28-2019, 01:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Art, looks like you have one of the big butyl short hoses also. Ever used it?
Tom, no, I have never used any of those parts that come in the box except for the nuts to hold the original choke-protected electrical leads on the pump. I like the plastic hose clamps, but haven't dared to put them on anything. Note the + and - is cast into the white plastic - easy to miss.
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Old 04-29-2019, 08:33 AM   #31
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SAE 30R-10 submersible fuel hose not available anywhere close.

Back to ebay. $8.49 for a three inch piece expected Thursday.

NAPA could get it this afternoon for $32 for a 1 foot piece.

They didn't realize they were dealing with Tight Wad Tom.
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Old 04-29-2019, 02:23 PM   #32
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SAE 30R-10 submersible fuel hose not available anywhere close.

Back to ebay. $8.49 for a three inch piece expected Thursday.

NAPA could get it this afternoon for $32 for a 1 foot piece.

They didn't realize they were dealing with Tight Wad Tom.
I was lucky. A fellow Volvo owner sprang for the whole foot and popped half in the mail to me claiming my remote help made the exchange more than fair. Amazing how much that stuff costs!
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Old 05-01-2019, 07:37 PM   #33
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OK, the $4 an inch hose arrived. It did not have the SAE 30R-10 printed on it but it did have 'submersible fuel hose' there.

Siphoned the gas out of the tank and only got less than 6 gallons, 5 of which I had put in only a couple weeks ago. Interior of the tank looks OK. at least no rust areas. I will get some brand new gas tomorrow, get the pump in and expect nirvana. Often disappointed.

One last question: Is the pictured wiring correct? The replacement pump terminals are not marked and this is sorta how I remember it. The yellow ground wire was probably brown 30 years ago.



One more last question: I could not find a receipt for a lift pump replacement so this one, with the dissolving hose may have been one replaced by Leroy during his pillage of this car. I carefully save all receipts though carefully retained out of the wife's view. No one should ever create a spreadsheet accounting for restoration expenses.

I have had the pump out to replace the tank and find the loose float ball and did not find a gasket between the tank and the top of the hose assembly back then. The problem is that none of the supplied O rings with the new pump fit the top of the hose assembly except one that is 3/16" thick. I am not sure that the collar clamp will pull that down to the limits of the rotating clamping lips.

Do I need to search for a thinner 'O' ring?
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:07 AM   #34
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Hey Tom,

3/16" is the correct thickness for the bung seal. Durometer and composition is another question, that's why I chose to get genuine parts for this in the past. Also, sometimes I think the aftermarket folks forget what we've done to our gasoline here in the US.

As for the connections, the yellow ground wire was always yellow inside your tank. I forgot your year, but I think the brown wires inside the tank were only on the older cars with the VDO pumps before they went to AC. It is brown outside.

You have to have good eyes to see the + and - on the pump's shiny white end casting. Look at the arrow pointing to a little boss in this picture and check for the polarity ID. Don't just look at the picture and wire it this way, the picture is an example of the wrong way.

So glad you didn't wind up with a gummed up distributor and warm up regulator. You might want to change the filter, though.

From http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm:
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Check yours. Looking at the next photo, note the motor lugs are facing toward the camera. The black wire needs to be at the bottom instead of at the top. Looking closely at the white plastic holder, you'll even see "+" and "—" molded in. The yellow ground wire must go to "—" and the black to "+".
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:21 AM   #35
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Thanks Art!

There was a blob of the goo in the metal tube out of the failed hose but only that little piece. I attempted to run the pumps with the new pressure pump in place but couldn't get any gas. Just hoping that nothing made it to the new pump.

I replaced the filter.

Gas after lunch and we will see.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:31 AM   #36
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Quote:
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... No one should ever create a spreadsheet accounting for restoration expenses...
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:36 AM   #37
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Gas after lunch and we will see.
Burritos again? I always get gas after lunch on burrito day.
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Old 05-04-2019, 07:45 AM   #38
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Quote:
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The David Freiburger absolute Law of HotRodding (and restoration).......

"Costs twice as much as you think, takes three times as long......."
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Old 05-04-2019, 08:20 AM   #39
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In my case that is probably 4x4.
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Old 05-04-2019, 06:32 PM   #40
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Cranked right up! Responds to throttle.

Been here before . . . several times.

The control pressure is reading the expected fuel distributor regulator pressure of about 70 psi. Should be low 20's with a cold engine. Appears that the CPR is blocked or at least is not regulating.

Off it comes . . . again . . . probably for about the 4th time.

But the rest of the fuel system seems to be working as intended. Both pumps now known new and a new filter.

Are we having fun yet?
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:01 PM   #41
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Kjet can be like that. When things go wrong it seems to become very needy. Parts either need cleaning or replacement. A control pressure that high is basically system pressure as you say. So your engine is running too lean all the time. Once you get that blocked cpr sorted out it makes a huge difference in how well your kjet runs.
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:53 PM   #42
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Here's a resource for cprs and distributors I'd not seen until a fellow from Oz sent me an email after he saw my page on testing pressures. http://k-jet.biz/

The offer of parts and instruction sets this apart from the usual reman business.
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:19 PM   #43
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I have had the CPR apart since the last post and did not find anything of significance but upon reassembly I am still getting system pressure.



One strange thing is a little quarter inch piece of what I thought was an O ring was in the CPR input screen. It had a hole and therefore tubing so it had to have been inside something else. Didn't seem like fuel distributor O rings. I have been there also some time ago.

The one thing I have not done is dig out the filter screens on the input. Air blows through just fine so one might think that fuel would pass the other way. The screens are 4 or 5 layers and appear to be held in place by a tiny retaining washer. I suspect that digging out the fine screen mesh may significantly damage it but that may be the next step.

I will try to get it apart again tomorrow and see if there is some bockage there.

It cranks and responds to throttle but 70 psi control pressure is, indeed, going to lean out the air/fuel mixture.

While looking through the youtube videos this afternoon I came across a modification to make the CPR adjustable. Not something that Bosch thought appropriate to leave in the hands of the unwashed but with the right test equipment would permit fine tuning the air/fuel ratio.

Last edited by TestPoint; 05-11-2019 at 02:09 PM..
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:27 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanflametrap View Post
Here's a resource for cprs and distributors I'd not seen until a fellow from Oz sent me an email after he saw my page on testing pressures. http://k-jet.biz/

The offer of parts and instruction sets this apart from the usual reman business.

Thanks, that looks like a good resource.
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Old 05-11-2019, 10:58 AM   #45
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Took a few days off for a walk-about across the Bourbon Trail. Picked up some souvenirs. Long time on my bucket list.

Took the CPR apart again and the screens are the only next step. The control pressure is reading the 70psi of the fuel distributor regulator which everyone seems to say is a sure sign of blocked screens. Since the original fuel issue was rust everywhere it seems appropriate to have a go at it even though failure here could be terminal for any potential rebuild.

Everything I see on Youtube says you just pick them out, clean and straightened and reinstall. Any first hand experience?
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Old 05-11-2019, 03:33 PM   #46
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Took a few days off for a walk-about across the Bourbon Trail. Picked up some souvenirs. Long time on my bucket list.

Took the CPR apart again and the screens are the only next step. The control pressure is reading the 70psi of the fuel distributor regulator which everyone seems to say is a sure sign of blocked screens. Since the original fuel issue was rust everywhere it seems appropriate to have a go at it even though failure here could be terminal for any potential rebuild.

Everything I see on Youtube says you just pick them out, clean and straightened and reinstall. Any first hand experience?
I have got to clean screens in the past. Takes surprisingly little ick to raise control pressure.
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Old 05-12-2019, 03:31 PM   #47
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The day when I had my first 240 turbo repaired by replacing the plugged control regulator was a great day. It ran so much better in all conditions and it had a big chunk of power back.
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Old 05-12-2019, 04:31 PM   #48
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Dear Diary,

I may have killed my WUR today.

With the unit disassembled on the bench I was able to force brake cleaner through the screens both ways. It leaked slowly inlet to regulator nozzle and I was able to squirt brake cleaner through from the nozzle side out with some force.

That had to mean that the thing was clean enough to pass gas but no such luck. Upon reinstalling the gauge was reading the 70psi system pressure. Took it off for the fourth time.

After debating with my self over some of my souvenir bourbon from the trip I got the pick out and dug out the screens. No saving them as they were firmly clamped into place. After carefully cleaning out all the trash that I could see, blowing with air gun and brake cleaner put it back together and back on.

Started right up with 22psi control pressure. I didn't wait until it went through the warm up routine. That would seem to be a clear indication that clogged screens was the issue.

Now I have to wonder if there is enough trash left in the system to foul up the regulation shortly. Failure symptom is running lean but it does run.

I am going to explore obtaining a bench rebuilt and tested WRU but initial searches put that as unlikely or expensive. A review of the rebuild kits determined that the only thing in the $50 kits of any value is the regulation disk. None supplied the nozzle or the filter screens.

Anyway, I think it will regulate through warmup and run now.

Gotta dig the footings for my Scout Camp restrooms tomorrow. Not latrines, real flush restrooms with showers.

Later.

Last edited by TestPoint; 05-12-2019 at 05:35 PM..
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:37 PM   #49
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Wheeler Dealers did a redo of a old MB that had injection problems. Mike we to a place in LA that had everything he needed on the shelf.
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Old 05-13-2019, 06:29 AM   #50
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Found a company in Texas that rebuilds the WUR for under $200. Bosch does not appear to sell the critical parts outside their internal rebuild services. Wonder what the situation is with replacing the screens.

DeLorean Auto Parts - https://www.deloreanautoparts.com/wa...egulators.html

Guess I will spend time verifying the operation of my modified WUR and have these guys as a back up. Perhaps a call to discuss the situation is appropriate.
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