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Volvo 122S Build Thread: Scope-creep the Sequel

Craig, I used a pair of these Jag motor mounts on my car and on my buddies '52 Willys Aero. There really easy to install and very versatile:

http://jollyrogersmotors.com/store/p/1072-Engine-Mount-Pair-Jaguar.html

You don't have to buy them from these guys, they just had a good pic.

I think I would consider loping off the pass side of the oil pan so you could use a flat plate to cover the opening rather than trying to build a fancy shape to clear the LCA. It looks like you could make up for lost volume by opening the front of the pan and adding volume closer to the front cross member. Or not :e-shrug:
 
Hilarious. I used to be a jag guy...and I think I have a set of those mounts in my parts hoard but never thought of them. I'm happy with the leaf spring eye mount style mount, but not the 90A Shore hardness. I can pour polyurethane and use the existing mounts to make a mold. It'll be fine.

I could come forward with the pan. At this point, I'm down about 1/2 L to a litre so my guess is that the pan as it sits will still hold about 5 L - I'm fine with that. With the oil cooler, it's plenty of volume. I will add some trap doors to the sheet metal baffle to further assist in corners to prevent oil starvation.
 
Personally, I hate those leaf spring style mounts. I find them really hard to line up when placing a motor. Having to get them to slide between the side plates means having to have the engine higher or farther to the side than the mounts which can cause a lot of interference issues. With the Jag style mounted flat you can have the engine just a bit higher than it's final position and easily set the engine onto the mounts. A lot less fiddling around IMO :cool:

If you're gonna be thrashing around on track days an oil accumulator is a good idea. You know how they work, don'tcha professor?
 
Personally, I hate those leaf spring style mounts. I find them really hard to line up when placing a motor. Having to get them to slide between the side plates means having to have the engine higher or farther to the side than the mounts which can cause a lot of interference issues. With the Jag style mounted flat you can have the engine just a bit higher than it's final position and easily set the engine onto the mounts. A lot less fiddling around IMO :cool:

If you're gonna be thrashing around on track days an oil accumulator is a good idea. You know how they work, don'tcha professor?

I'm OK with the mount at this point. I can change it later if needed.

Yup - fully up to speed on accumulator's. It's a good idea and simple to implement. Really no good reason to not have one.

As far as track days...well, that's the idea - but of course this is Western Canada so my options are super limited. Southern Alberta has no tracks at this time so I autocross. Now, that said, I'm willing to head on down to the PNW and join you guys for a run or two. I mean...if there's still good coffee and beer.:)
 
I'm OK with the mount at this point. I can change it later if needed.

Yup - fully up to speed on accumulator's. It's a good idea and simple to implement. Really no good reason to not have one.

As far as track days...well, that's the idea - but of course this is Western Canada so my options are super limited. Southern Alberta has no tracks at this time so I autocross. Now, that said, I'm willing to head on down to the PNW and join you guys for a run or two. I mean...if there's still good coffee and beer.:)

Until little donny puts a tariff on coffee (covfefe) we'll have plenty of that and lots of local micro brews!! See ya' next spring (fingers crossed)!
 
The latest episode is now up. This time - engine mounts.

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Rolling along - Anti Roll Bar video.

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Trying to get a few jobs cleaned up. Thought I'd start with finishing the rear end sheet metal. I honestly need a break from some things and I enjoy sheet metal work. The weather is nice and I can get the priming done to at least hold things until we're ready to roll on the entire car.

But just like everything - I get started and find a little rust. It didn't take long to fix - but it did pull me off other tasks for a bit. I'll fill you in later on the rest when it's all done.

In the mean time - rust repair 101.

Cut out the old stuff - use whatever is fast (air chisel was my weapon of choice). I didn't take pictures - it was just a little surface rust, that wasn't surface rust. The rear window leaked - that's the cause as far as I can tell. Wheel well rusts due to window leakage.

Nice.

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I'm not worrying about the doubling panel or the outer because I'm going to change this panel out when the fenders get done.

Funny enough - this car is very solid on the inside. The old flanges just needed a little scrub and they're fine. Quick shot with some zinc weld through primer.

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Patch panel - messed up punching the one hole!

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A few plug welds and a little seam and we're all fixed up.

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Grind it back to finish it off.

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And a dab of primer.

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I'll be epoxy priming this area later. The zinc is there as there will be a closing panel when the new outer wheel well goes on. I'll just tape the are when doing the rest.
 
Great work man, I'm taking notes so I can rebuild my front geometry and steering at some point in the future.

On the oil pan front, I cut a similar amount (maybe more) off of my sump and have had zero oil starvation or pressure loss issues. Mine isn't a race car by any means, but I've done some pretty decent cornering in the rockies with it. The dipstick is stock 960, and I can get right at 6 quarts in it going by the full mark on the stick (not including filter). I'm using soft rubber mounts too and I haven't had any rubbing issues, clearance is pretty tight in a couple of areas.

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My engine is a PITA to remove too, I really need to notch the front cross member for sump clearance during install. The pan is just so big there's only one way to get it in there.
 
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I'm trying to get caught up with my video backlog. I'm going to try to get a few shorter episodes out here in the next month to get caught up.

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The start of the oil pan modifications.

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Still rocking and rolling right now.

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Absolutely loving the "Ride of the Valkyries" music......... what is the smell of victory in the Throttle Stop Garage?

Also loving your fabricating..... I just may have to subscribe!
 
Absolutely loving the "Ride of the Valkyries" music......... what is the smell of victory in the Throttle Stop Garage?

Also loving your fabricating..... I just may have to subscribe!

LOL - thanks. You'll see what the traditions are when we finally roll this thing out of the garage. My wife and dog do not approve of most of the smells that emanate from the garage.

Let's see if I can get 100 subscribers!
 
I sure can appreciate your challenges with this build...... optimize the suspension, then fighting for every bloody inch when fitting the whiteblock, what with the original 1950's suspension location in that classic sheet metal. It certainly might have been easier to try and graft a 960 crossmember into the Amazon, but with minimal front suspension improvement.

If it makes you feel any better, recently HOTROD ran a story about a guy fitting a full dressed LS into those confines..... however I doubt he went to your lengths on the Vette front suspension and steering (memory says they were dirt track building guys who just feel in love with the Amazon wagon metal). I'm pulling for you Craig, and very, very impressed with your fab skills. Now I'm heading downstairs to MIG together some 409SS exhaust, stretching my skills a bit further (using 309L wire and TRI-mix, so I've got that going for me).
 
Here's the latest installment. I'll do up a post later for those that would rather that form of content.

So - something is now DONE.

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I get the rear sheet metal all finished, filled and primed. Yes, it's progress...you heard it hear first.

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I thought it was time to switch things up a little and actually completely finish something on this project. So the rear of the car, for years...has been close to finished. Close. But not finished. The sheet metal was roughly fitted and held in with Clecos and the rear seat bulkhead was out, but held in with Tek screws. I have stretched the rear inner fenders 20 mm or so and re-crafted the original back seat back to fit (the base fit fine). But I had never finished up - it needed some filler and the seam sealer was rough, and it was a little scratched up from having to remove the previous Dynamat installation.

So I got to work (see the vids) and got this done. It took almost 3 weeks to complete. Here's the back seat bulkhead welded in.

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I had just slopped some epoxy primer on it a few years ago, so that had to get sanded off and this photo is mid prep for the rest. So some parts done, most not done.

You can see where the strip was added...you can't feel where it was added.

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I then returned to the trunk to get that sorted out. Lost of paint on the inside of future box sections and many, many plug welds later I was sanding and almost ready for some filler.

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Drivers side fender is a little artsy as I will be carrying a spare tire.

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Inside and out were then filled with a short strand waterproof filler and finished with some very nice Evercoat Ultra. No pin holes, easy to sand. The perfect filler.

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I then broke out the paint guns (I like painting) and treated the metal to two coats of PPG Epoxy Primer (DP48LV) - don't use cheap epoxy - it's nothing like the real deal. Note, I filled the old speaker hole in the parcel shelf area.

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I think it came out great.

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Getting in all the nooks and crannies was a challenge...thank goodness for fan control.

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Ya, that'll do. I still have to change the outer wheel housing - so that's why that's not painted.

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I also did the complete rear underside - so that's all done. It needs seam sealer, but that can wait until we're laying colour and done the rest of the sheet metal work back here. For now, the IRS is back up at home and we're moving onto the front of the car again.

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That's it for this update.
 
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