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Old 05-08-2019, 11:55 AM   #51
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I probably need to start a build thread for my 145. Same color. Same year.
The difference was hilarious between compounded and non-compounded paint.


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Old 05-08-2019, 12:15 PM   #52
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That cam's even worse than the one I had to replace in my '75 245. Not too difficult of a job, though.
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Old 05-08-2019, 12:41 PM   #53
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You have way more paint on your car than I ever did, but be careful with all that cutting. It's a bummer how much of my paint I've removed in three years of periodic cleaning and buffing.
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Old 05-10-2019, 09:41 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
You have way more paint on your car than I ever did, but be careful with all that cutting. It's a bummer how much of my paint I've removed in three years of periodic cleaning and buffing.
The cutting I did was pretty minor. Light pressure with the random orbital and a compound that is fairly fine just to bring the color out and motivate me to exist. Once I get the finish somewhat presentable/passable, I'm waxing it and leaving it.

In other news, I have reached a juncture. I am very much interested in installing my tan leather s60R seats I saved from the parts car. I removed the OG driver's seat and was able to figure out how to best mount/support/bracket the rails to the floor. Because of the cross member that runs across the floor under the OG seat, I have to elevate the seat to clear it. To do this, I am using some square stock and welding a plate and nut to the top of the 3" piece to bolt the seat to.

The question is- do I weld the 'risers' (square stock and home made riv-nuts) to the floor, or add another bolt plate to the bottom and drill through the floor. I am most likely cutting the carpet either way as it isn't excellent and I can always source a new one (black from VP- better on stains than gold/tan).
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:17 PM   #55
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Some average pictures- my 2nd favorite angle of the car.


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Old 05-11-2019, 09:47 PM   #56
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I love those. Someday I want a 144 with a B30 in it..
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Old 05-11-2019, 10:28 PM   #57
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I love those. Someday I want a 144 with a B30 in it..
You want a 164, but with the attractive front end? I don't blame you for that choice.
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Old 05-12-2019, 06:47 PM   #58
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That car is so awesome, so many low effort high satisfaction issues to address.

Take the head off and throw that cam away!

That manual is all you need to take apart that little engine, they're super simple.
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Old 05-12-2019, 07:33 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Hootbot View Post
That car is so awesome, so many low effort high satisfaction issues to address.

Take the head off and throw that cam away!

That manual is all you need to take apart that little engine, they're super simple.
For the most part, they seem about as simple (just larger) as an MGB engine, which I used to get paid to work on.

I am extremely excited to get this car on the road and drive the piss out of it.
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Old 05-12-2019, 11:03 PM   #60
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For the most part, they seem about as simple (just larger) as an MGB engine, which I used to get paid to work on.

I am extremely excited to get this car on the road and drive the piss out of it.
Pretty much, except much better lol
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:35 PM   #61
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1 of 8 seat pedestals/mounts to raise the P2R seats above the cross member. There's a nut welded into the top plate and will be a bottom plate with a nut welded in as well. These were supposed to get done on Saturday but ended up getting the wrong material from Tractor Supply (ferrous stainless marked as cold-rolled) and spent 3 hours diagnosing before running back and getting some cold-rolled. Sunday was mother's day.

Had to quit at 8:00 (got off work at 7:00) so the grinds look like garbage, but I slid it in the car and it looks like a guesstimated correctly. This seat should definitely fit and support my fat ass far better than the worn out tweed seat on long drives.
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Old 05-13-2019, 10:43 PM   #62
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Right on, looking good so far!
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Old 05-18-2019, 06:25 PM   #63
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Thread updated time:
Haven't gotten into my garage to finish the pedestals yet- new job has been draining me physically and mentally.
I have the 4-tower 80's Yakima rails, basket, and bike mount sitting in the shed now that I've removed the last of my property from my former employer (including selling the GD 300TE Benz).
I sold the 300TE this morning, so now I have some upfront capital to get the cam, gasket kit, lifters, hydraulic hoses, fuel lines, etc to get this car on the road.
I went to what was supposedly a Euro-Mecca yesterday where I knew of 3 16v parts cars. All 3 had broken belts, and the guy was firm at $500 a piece in light of that for just the heads, plus $200 for manifolds. My consolation prize was a set of straight Virgo wheels. I'm not sure if I'll try to trade for something a little less bend-prone or use them, but I can't complain.

I have decided this car is certainly staying B20-powered for the long run. Possibly turbocharging the B20 with Microsquirt/Speeduino to make ~200hp. I would use a B20F head to drop the compression within reason.

Joey (my brother, vwbusman69) and I went to a few yard sales today after a geezer car show at the VFW and I scored 'The Club' for $3 with two keys. It'll hopefully deter theft at remote college parking lots.



Last edited by vwbusman66; 05-18-2019 at 06:32 PM..
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Old 05-19-2019, 06:57 PM   #64
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Installed the rack and mocked up the Virgos- I'm pretty pleased.
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Old 05-19-2019, 07:50 PM   #65
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Today was a pretty much me spinning my wheels.
Made the decision this morning to just rebuild the original driver's seat with better foams and a new seat cover instead of retrofitting the R seats. They look out of place in the tweed interior.
Vacuumed the whole carpet and rear seat, washed the black OE rubber mats, and removed/scraped out the remains of the rubber mat in the trunk that had turned to sticky tar. That led to the discovery that the passenger buttcheek had a ton of bondo/glass and the driver's side isn't much better for rust at this point. I'll have to do those before the summer is out. Also, there was a ton of standing water in the gas tank tub- naturally, I drained the 10 gallons of varnish out and discovered why the pump wouldn't pull fuel from the tank- the steel line was rotted clean through. I'll be replacing all of the long brake lines and fuel line with 3/16 and 5/16 NiCop line respectively as well as installing a new fuel level sender.

I would like to address the pinch weld under the windshield (some rust/bubbling). Can I replace the trim/seal with the late style 240 trim-free seal and windshield?
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:26 PM   #66
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Yes.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 05-20-2019, 12:46 AM   #67
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Only thing you have to do is tap down some bumps where the windshield meets the cowl. 1978 and newer already are flat there, but the 1967-77 cars aren't. There is a '75 164E at a local yard that had the 1991-93 windshield installed in it.

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Old 05-20-2019, 10:27 PM   #68
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Is the 142/242 glass available new as well and can they get a matching seal as the front?

Pulled the rotted fuel lines and installed new NiCopp 5/16 line. Discovered that the driver's side frame rail is crusty and will need some repair before I leave for school in August. Any tips?
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Old 05-21-2019, 03:12 AM   #69
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Seal on 1991-93 244 is basically the 140 series seal, but without the trim moulding. Probably best to just grab a low mileage 1991-93 rear window and swap it in. You'll also gain a 3rd brake light, plus defroster lines that seem to clear the glass much quicker than the older ones do.
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Old 05-21-2019, 07:40 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post
Is the 142/242 glass available new as well and can they get a matching seal as the front?

Discovered that the driver's side frame rail is crusty and will need some repair before I leave for school in August. Any tips?
Don't get discouraged! If you have a mig welder you can deal with frame section repairs easily. Just procure some 12 ga steel stock and use that. Don't worry about bending into a perfect shape, just cut out the bad section, tack in rectangular patch pieces cut to size and then weld the seams closed.

[IMG]Frame Rail - Exposing Rot[/IMG]

[IMG]Frame Rail Patch - Bottom Section #2[/IMG]

[IMG]Frame Rail Patch Complete #3[/IMG]

[IMG]Frame Rail Patch - Primed #3[/IMG]
btw: thumbs up on your seat decision.
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Old 05-21-2019, 10:29 PM   #71
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The car has assumed the traditional TB pose- jack stands on all four corners. No real progress today, mostly just reading up on various "things".


I'm not terrified about that frame repair, just need to make sure I measure/template it well.

The OG seat is certainly growing on me.
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Old 05-22-2019, 07:36 AM   #72
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just need to make sure I measure/template it well.
An easy way to make a template once you cut out the rotted sections is to use card stock (5x7 cards or even old manila file folders you may find laying around). You can lay the card stock over the section you cut out and use your fingernails to etch the outline of the piece you need to cut into the stock. Then you can cut the template out of the card stock, and scribe the shape onto your sheet metal stock.
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Old 05-22-2019, 09:33 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by didenpx View Post
An easy way to make a template once you cut out the rotted sections is to use card stock (5x7 cards or even old manila file folders you may find laying around). You can lay the card stock over the section you cut out and use your fingernails to etch the outline of the piece you need to cut into the stock. Then you can cut the template out of the card stock, and scribe the shape onto your sheet metal stock.
I'm a big fan of the manilla file folder method. Relatively flexible, easy to cut, easy to mark, and holds a shape/curve well.

In other news, the box of goodies I ordered Monday from VP arrived today.
Got a full engine gasket set, 'D' cam and lifters, aluminum timing gear set, a clip for the seat support strap, and a fuel level sender (figured it was worth the $53 price tag for a working gas gauge) and gasket.

Not sure when I'll blow it apart and get it done. I paid for the HiPerfAuto cam gear puller tool rental today, so hopefully, that'll be here next week and I can get it running on all 4 again.

A good friend's dad (from high school) bought a 1978 MG Midget with 30k original miles last October from a customer of the shop I was at. I had done extensive work on the car, however, it suffered from severe carbon buildup in the valve guides/valves due to not getting hot when it ran. Current owner (Paul) and his buddy pulled the head to replace an externally leaking head gasket. That was 3 months ago. My friend and I are going to try and slam it together this weekend so they can drive it this summer. Mark did a ****ty job installing an electric fuel pump, so I'm sure I'll have to un-**** his ****ery.

So basically, not working on the B20 this weekend
Might try and grab a divorced intake/exhaust manifold off a 69 144 up at an old school wrecking yard with the HS6's (to sell) and use the manifold to delete the ugly/complicated flap setup.
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Old 05-23-2019, 01:35 PM   #74
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Might try and grab a divorced intake/exhaust manifold off a 69 144 up at an old school wrecking yard with the HS6's (to sell) and use the manifold to delete the ugly/complicated flap setup.
I still need a dash so if that 69 144's dash is uncracked I'll pay a pickers fee. PM me, I was trying to buy your 145's dash when you still had it
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Old 05-27-2019, 05:13 PM   #75
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Started the cam swap around 12 today and have hit a wall with questions- here are some pictures and a video of the WASTED original cam.







Is the cam plate supposed to have that kind of wear/machining, or is that just wear?

Czech out the video of the cam, too.
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