Down shift cable sticks 240

All of the sudden the the pedal on my 86 wagon was hard to press past half way and the transmission wouldn't down shift. So I pulled over and disconnected the down shift cable. The pedal goes all the way now but it wont down shift. I can pull the cable by hand and it stops half way then I have to pull harder for it to go all the way. I traced it to the tranny and when I pull the cable out of the tranny it still sticks. So its internal. Can i fix this? Thanks for any help

Just sounds like the kickdown cable is seized. I had to replace mine a few months ago

Are you sure you're not feeling the kickdown function when it gets harder to pull? AFAIK there's a pretty hefty spring in there you're pulling against. My cable got stiff a couple years ago (giggity) and got stuck in an inbetween position leaving me with no O/D somehow. I sprayed some WD inside the plastic line leading to the trans and it hasn't bothered me since.

Well the pedal stops half way (wont go full throttle) then you push REALLY hard and it immediately down shifts and the throttle opens all the way. The transmissions shifts from 1 to fourth gear with no issues but at the wrong times without the down shift cable hooked up. I disconnected the throttle cable and pulled it by hand. It does the same thing. Then I got under the car and saw the shielding around the cable is snapped at the transmission but that's not the problem. I can pull the cable and shielding and see that the cable is getting stuck in the transmission ( not in the the shielding). So could the cable be getting stuck in the tranny or is it some type of gear change selenoid that needs to be replaced It just started randomly on a trip. Worked fine before that.

go HERE:

http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/

and download THIS:

TP30868-2
page 46 of the document...

(I suggest the TP30578-1 parts I, II, and III as better "scans" of the material)

requires trans PAN removal (wherein you will test your strength against the
ever corroded DIP STICK TUBE) and then the shift cable....

BTW ..you are unable to downshift at the proper time due to cable misfeasance..
DOWN shifting is dropping to a "lower gear" via the "kickdown cable" (controls
LINE PRESSURE and actually DOES *down shift* when you boot it)....
you've described inability to get there ....(the spool valve may be
stuck)...I'd recommend a KNOWLEDGEABLE trans person to run a couple
of quick tests for you (line pressure / stall speed / governor pressure)...spend
the *less than a yard* on it and go from there....I'd HATE to see you spend
the energy and time to rip the pan off only to find no joy at the end of your efforts...

the gauges and adaptors need to check pressures are *usually under $125 USFRN*
and will last a lifetime - unless you're intent upon becoming the local AW-Guru,
I'd let someone that HAS the gear do it for me (it's what I did when I was just
starting out shortly after that snake in the grass UG did his "majik WHEEL
INVENTION THINGIE"....damn his hide....)

I checked that out thanks. How do I change or unstick the spool valve? This sucks lol. Thanks for the help.

chickwithabrick said:

I checked that out thanks. How do I change or unstick the spool valve? This sucks lol. Thanks for the help.

Click to expand...

the "spool or THROTTLE valve" is INSIDE the valve body..due to the complexity and the *MANY* "updates and supersessions" of parts and specifications I *REALLY* don't recommend this repair for the neophyte....automatic gearboxes are NOT rocket medicine but they are EXTREMELY susceptible to tolerance stack up / minute swarf contamination / incorrect pin - valve running clearance and the like....

if I were you I'd do the following (assuming you want to rescue your 240):
1) get a trans filter kit and two cases of ATF (one case of the cheapest **** you can
lay yer hands on and the other *top shelf DEX* ), plus 1 jug of LUCAS TRANS FIX
( http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=29&catid=2 ) along with a five foot section of fuel line and a stub of AT cooler line removed from a junk car...and a new cable of the correct number for your car....

2) hook up your "jury rigged TRANS FLUSH DEVICE" (see IPD for their KIT)
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4809/105310-automatic-transmission-flush-kit
(download the INSTRUCTIONS from that page!)
and crank ten quarts of the case thru the trans and out the spout

3) drop the oil pan and remove the filter...wash down the WHOLE UNDERNEATH
of the exposed valve body w/BRAKE CLEANER (do NOT use CARB cleaner on
the valve body..you don't want to attack the seals)...

4) install your NEW KICK DOWN CABLE

5) clean the pan and re-install...
proceed to finish the flushing until the fluid comes out PERFECTLY CLEAR (*NO*
cloudiness or darkness in the fluid spitting out the hose!!)

6) STOP ADDING FLUID and let the fluid run till it stops "spitting" and no more
fluid is expelled

7) re-connect the cooler line and add TWO QUARTS of fluid....take one of the
empty bottles and and add 1/3 container of LUCAS to the jug and top off with
DEX....shake the living hell out of it and dump that in the trans...repeat this
w/the other MT quart bottle and a second third of the Lucas jug...
top off as need (follow directions in your owners manual for checking the trans fluid)...

8) go for a short spin around the block....you have invested about $125 in your car
and it will either WORK or you'll be looking for a replacement...

as I said in the previous post I'd spring for those three tests before I did ANYTHING
else..but that's just my process...others will proclaim a different route..you must CHOOSE and I say *"CHOOSE WISELY"*.....these two posts will help you determine whether the trans is gonna work or it needs re-done /replaced...

our local trans shop gets around a grand for going thru a straight ahead trans like the
AW70 and they use top line clutches etc and offer a decent warranty (my experience is that a CORRECTLY set-up trans w/new bits will be just as reliable as the ORIGINAL one that came with the car)....get a "cheap-assed re-build" and the dictum "Ya get whot cha pay for" becomes the operative statement...

let us know what you decide...