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Homer's 1990 240 redblock exorcism

In other news:

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Giggle.
Another solution would be a dry sump, but that's so far off the scale of logic for this project right now.
(Yes I did attempt to make this project sound logical)

The main reason I'm shying away from a dry-sump setup is that the gains in motor mounding position are nearly 0. Once your motor is installed, you'll see that the section of the pan that's above the cross member is actually very shallow. If you're planning a dedicated road racer that has other reasons for needing the dry-sump, cool, but other than cool-factor, there's very little to be gained as far as moving the block lower in the chassis. :-(
 
hows the back edge fixtured? also, post pictures of that tool. the one on the machine, not in front of it.

Both ends are attached to cast iron angle plates. The whole fixture was pretty ghetto. My initial plan was to build a fixture rig for facing oil pans but when I realized what a pain in the ass the whole job is I decided I'd do a one time thing work holding setup. The back of the oil pan is bolted down through one of the bellhousing mounts. The front of the pan is attached by the oil cooler connection port.

Because this stuff never works how you want I had to rethink the tooling a bit. My first idea was to jog the table around the pan rail and face it with an 80mm facemill. This turned out to have some clearance problems so I decided to use the pictured boring bar which could face the width of the pan in one pass. I ground a HSS tool with a shallow entering angle to try to reduce chatter a bit.

****ty part was how long it took. The effective tool radius was over 250mm so I didn't want to go faster than 120rpm or so (probably could have gone faster in hindsight). I varied the feed between 30-45mm/min depending on where the cutter was engaged. It took about 15 minutes to do one pass across the pan at 0.2mm depth of cut. In the end I had to face off about 1.2mm to get it all flat.
 
More detail than you guys ever wanted to see, but deal with it :-P
I didn't clean anything, just took it apart and snapped pics.
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I made the fairly safe assumption that the back of the oil pan where the bellhousing mounts is supposed to be perpendicular to the mounting surface of the oil pan. When I clamped down the pan I made sure the bellhousing surface was flush with the surface of the angle plate. Then I hit the rearmost section of the pan rail with a dial indicator and jogged the table back and forth in Y and adjusted it until it was level.



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This is the tool I used. Pretty simple home made fly cutter.

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Here's the tool I ground to face the pan. Never done this before so I kind of rolled the dice just to see if it would work.
 
Got the housing cleaned up. Waiting till next week to get the comp wheel and rebalance.
Dialed the turbine shaft. It's straight.
6.99$ at harbor freight made quick work of the giant snap ring.
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