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I'm stuck trying to get the camshaft out.

F

Fred Gwynne

New member
Joined
Oct 18, 2015
Hi folks,

I'm trying to remove the stock cam in my b230f motor and then stick a "b" cam into it. As the hayne's manual has instructed me to do so I have removed the cam cover, removed the cam bolts and cam collars. So the cam has kicked up in the back by the firewall because the downward pressure from the collars has been removed. However, the front is still stuck down.

Should I have removed the cam timing gear sprocket before I popped the collars off the cam?

If I try to remove it now will that eff the timing up?

Maybe I should slide the belt off the sprocket while the sprocket is still in place? Will that be a bitch putting back on because of the tension on the belt?



I'm guessing I didn't read as much of the Hayne's manual as I should have.

Please see the picture below.

I appreciate anyone's thoughts/help about/with this. Thanks very much.



<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=30x8w1y" target="_blank"><img src="http://i63.tinypic.com/30x8w1y.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>
 
You need to take the belt off before removing the cam caps. You'll need to get everything lined up again properly when the new cam goes in.

From the general looks of it, I'd get a new belt too.
 
JohnMc said:
You need to take the belt off before removing the cam caps. You'll need to get everything lined up again properly when the new cam goes in.

From the general looks of it, I'd get a new belt too.
Click to expand...

Thanks very much and I was also thinking the belt ought to be replaced. This can all be done with the motor still in the car, right?
 
Absolutely.

The main PITA is removing and replacing that pulley on the front of the crank.

If you ABSOLUTELY insist on cutting corners, you could de-tension the belt (loosen the bolt on the tensioner, and then *HHHRRNG* pull it toward the passenger side to compress it and loosen the belt. Then clip the belt in place on the crank/aux/cam gear and remove the cam gear from the cam.
 
Be CAREFUL doing that. The cam is cast iron, it really doesn't take a whole hell of a lot of force in a weird direction (i.e. bending) to break it.
 
I just broke the end of a cam off once, pretty gently wiggling a cam gear off (16V PZ cam, but they're almost identical to 8V cams).
 
There's a special tool for holding the cam while removing the caps. It's supposed to keep the cam from cocking and breaking the thrust flanges. It's the one on the top left of this pic.

ShimKit&Tools.jpg


Do you have a shim kit? You're probably going to need to adjust some of the valves with a different cam. I have the above kit available to rent and I can include the B230 crank holding tool as well.
 
hiperfauto said:
There's a special tool for holding the cam while removing the caps. It's supposed to keep the cam from cocking and breaking the thrust flanges. It's the one on the top left of this pic.

ShimKit&Tools.jpg


Do you have a shim kit? You're probably going to need to adjust some of the valves with a different cam. I have the above kit available to rent and I can include the B230 crank holding tool as well.
Click to expand...



Awesome I'll give that some thought and let you know. I appreciate the offer.
 
Okay so I'm cutting corners because I'm flying to TX tomorrow for a week. I have tension taken off the belt and a c-clamp keeping the belt onto the sprocket. When I start putting pressure on the bolt into the sprocket the camshaft starts to turn. Any suggestions about how I can prevent that? The car is an automatic in park. Thanks again.

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The tool on the top right in my pic is for holding the cam pulley.

There are universal tools made as well or you could try to make something.

4


You really shouldn't rush the job. Get all the parts and tools you need ahead of time. Just slapping in a cam without adjusting the clearances or changing that suspect belt is asking for trouble. Do the cam/aux shaft and crank seals while your at it and you won't have to go back in for a while.
 
hiperfauto said:
The tool on the top right in my pic is for holding the cam pulley.

There are universal tools made as well or you could try to make something.

4


You really shouldn't rush the job. Get all the parts and tools you need ahead of time. Just slapping in a cam without adjusting the clearances or changing that suspect belt is asking for trouble. Do the cam/aux shaft and crank seals while your at it and you won't have to go back in for a while.
Click to expand...

I hear ya entirely. I had only purchased the cam, the cam seals, a valve cover gasket and a haynes manual (for less than $3!). I was assuming that was all that was needed. As far as the valve clearance I was planning on taking the car to a pro and have him adjust them.
 
I may be losing my mind. I said the heck with it and thought I would let the pros do the whole thing. So I let the tensioner put tension back on the belt, tightened the tensioner down, tightened down all the cam caps by the correct specs as described in the manual, installed the cam shaft cover with new a new gasket, connected all the spark plug wires onto the correct plugs and connected the grounding wire from the firewall to the cam cover. When I turn the key the car's motor is cranking over but nothing seems to be firing at all. It has that sort of sound that says it's gonna just keep cranking and nothing more.

Do you folks have any suggestions?

I never took the cam pulley off the cam or the belt off the pulley so I can't imagine that I messed up the timing.

Thanks
 
Check the crank position sensor wire at the back of the head between the valve cover and firewall.

Also, is that a hole in your water hose going from the thermostat?
 
Don't worry about messing up the cam timing, you can correct that later while replacing that old timing belt. Besides that, the cam sprocket needs to come off to remove the back timing belt cover.
 
The timing on the intermediate shaft gear that drives the distributor may be off a tooth
 
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